Topics Topics Help/Instructions Help Edit Profile Profile Member List Register  
Search Last 1 | 3 | 7 Days Search Search Tree View Tree View  
Route 6x6 Discussion Board * Restoration of older ATV's * Attex axles question < Previous Next >

Author Message
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Bruce

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:43 pm:   

I noticed that one of my axles on my Attex super chief was loose. It would move in and out and would slide on both the outside and inside collars of the bearings. Each collar as two set screws on them and I found one set screw missing on one collar and one loose on the other. As I took everything apart to repair it, I thought that I would find that the collars "locked" onto the bearing and axle. Instead I found that the two set screws on each collar are the only things holding the axle. Is this how it was done on the old Attex's? it just does not seem like enough to hold an axle in place on a machine like this.

thanks for any help.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Keith Clayton

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:43 pm:   

Bruce
On my 72 attex chief the collars hold the axle in place then also the sprocket sleeve has a bolt through it that bolts through the axle.When I first got my Attex two of my axles were broken in half at the hole and it appeared to be fine but wasn't even driving when the sprocket turned.On another axle the sprocket weld was broken and that wasn't driving either.In one day I turned my three wheel drive unit into a six.Talk about pulling to one side.
Good luck-it could be worse-your axle could be frozen and then you have to cut it to get it out.
Keith Clayton
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Bruce

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:43 pm:   

Fixed it today. I found that the sprocket sleeve was too short on that side. The set screws were loose, but the sprocket shaft should be long enough to fit between the two bearings. Mine was short by 5/8 inch. I welded on a spacer and bolted the whole works back together. ( it sounds way easier than it was!!) back running again. Thank for the help.

Bruce
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

George

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:43 pm:   

I have to re-ask Bruce's question from last year. Here's the difference. I replaced many of the outer bearings with single collar bearings. The collar on these bearings are on the outside of the tub. Now I'm finding that two of my axles are sliding outward.

I presented my dilema to Richard Clark who suggested that the bearings need to have the collar hammered in to place, that they snap on to the bearing and that essentially locks the axel in place.

Any thoughts?

I was thinking I could take some extra collars I have and lock them down on the inside of the tub butting them up to the outter bearing.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.


Thanks,

George
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

(Unregistered Guest)
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 70.20.150.48

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Posted on Saturday, July 23, 2005 - 04:03 pm:   

I'm finally getting around to fixing a broken axle on my T'chief. It'on the left hand side middle if you are in the machine. here's the problem. I didn't take a picture and don't know what order the parts should go back in. The T'chief has a different left and right hand middle sprocket setup. My arrangement lloks like it should be like this.

Rubber Flangette---Body---Frame---Hub---Locking collar----bearing----frame.

If I do it that way the bolt holes do notline up in the axle. So it must be wrong. Withthis way the bolt is closet to the body.


So I tried it this way.


Rubber Flangette---Body---Frame---Locking collar----Hub---bearing----frame.


BUt the hub won't fit with or without the locking collar.

The locking collar looks like it needs to be there to stop the hub from hitting the frame. The bolt holes in the axle would line up if I could get it in there.

Should the bearing be on the opposite side of the frame? I.E. closest to the right hand body side?

Anybody have any pics or a better part manual than the
generic Attex version?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

JoeH (Unregistered Guest)
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 64.12.116.203

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Posted on Sunday, July 24, 2005 - 11:20 am:   

The axel assembly goes like this: outer flangett,bearing with locking collar,inner flangett, plastic spacer/gasket, body, frame, sprocket tube, inner bearing with set screws.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

david berger
Advanced Member
Username: Davidrrrd

Post Number: 109
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 172.149.186.10

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Posted on Sunday, July 24, 2005 - 09:50 am:   

IM NOT SHURE WHAT YOUR DISCRIBEING BUT YOUR BEARINGS SHOULD BE ATACHED THE SAME WAY AT ALL AXELS WHATEVER TYPE YOU HAVE, IF OTHER AXELS HAVE COLER OUTSIDE OF MACHINE THAN SO SHOULD THAT ONE,
THE ONE ATTEX I HAVE WITH ONE AXEL DIFERENT THAN THE OTHER 5 IS A CENTER AXEL WITH HOLE DRILLED DIFERENTLY BECAUS THE DRIVE TUBE FOR THAT SIDE HAS SPROKE IN NORMAL HOLE POSITION,
YOU MUST NOT MIX UP YOUR AXELS AND OF COARSE PUT DRIVE TUBE ON RIGHT WAY, THE BOLT HOLE THREW DRIVE TUBE AND AXEL IS WHERE THE AXEL IS HELD IN THE MACHINE FROM,SOME BEARINGS HAVE DIFERENT SIZE INNER RACES AND YOU MUST BE SHURE THE NEW BEARING HAS CORRECT SIZE INNER RACE, TOO DEEP AND IT WILL NOT GIVE CLEARENCE FOR DRIVE TUBE,LOCKING COLER OR REGULER COLERS ARE ON OUTSIDE OF BODY ,
SOME PEOPLE TRUST CAM LOCKING COLER TO HOLD AXEL IN MACHINE, BUT I DO NOT.I BOUGHT THE CHHEP BEARINGS WITH SET SCREWS ONLY AND KEPT DRIVE TUBE AND BEARING RACE TO 1/8 TOLERENCE ON INNER AND OUTER BEARINGS, THIS KEEPS THE SPROKET IN LIGN PRITY WELL AND THE BOLT THREW AXEL AND DRIVE TUBE KEEPS AXEL IN MACHINE.
THE KEY HERE IS THE DEPTH OF YOUR NEW BEARING INNER RACE,IN A PINCH YOU COULD GRIND A LITTLE OF END OF DRIVE TUBE, BUT LAITER YOU MAY NEED A SPACER TO KEEP THE TOLERENCE OR MAYBE DRILL INTO AXELS TO SET HEX BOLT THREW COLER OR SET SCREW THER COLER INTO AXEL TO HOLD IT,(I DONT THINK IT'L WORK)

Add Your Message Here
Post:
Bold text Italics Underline Create a hyperlink Insert a clipart image

Username: Posting Information:
This is a private posting area. Only registered users and moderators may post messages here.
Password:
Options: Enable HTML code in message
Action: