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Derek Hubbard
New member
Username: Justmax
Post Number: 8
Registered: 02-2005
Posted From: 24.166.114.118
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, September 28, 2005 - 10:31 pm: | |
I have a Max 2 with JLo 400 in it ( still working on the motor). A couple of the axles slide out(about an inch) away from the frame. My question is ,I know the set screw and ring keep the axle from sliding in ,but whats keeps it from sliding out. I don't want the chain hitting the frame. I have the old style hollow axles with hub adaptors. Once I get the motor running right, I thinking about replacing the axles with new solid ones and new bearings. |
matt (Unregistered Guest)
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 24.75.42.10
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, September 29, 2005 - 07:51 am: | |
I have a lot of brand new JLO parts for the 295/297, 340, 400, and 440. These are all in OEM JLO packaging. I can email you a list if you want. My prices are very reasonable. Let me know. |
david berger
Advanced Member
Username: Davidrrrd
Post Number: 160
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 172.172.136.179
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, September 29, 2005 - 10:05 am: | |
derrik
the axels should be held by a cam locking bearing, this locking meck has a history of brakeing easy so look at the locking coler and see if indeed the bearing has broken and lets it slide, you can fashion a spacer for between the drive tube(sproket tube) and inside edge of bearing, a spacer something like 1/4" to 3/4 inch or so should keep your axel in place, (cant say for shure because each position may vairy and also because diferent bearings have deferent depth inner races)best bet get the new bearings and set them right, i use the phrase righty tighty lefty loosy to remember wich way to move coler when serviceing my bearings.
also insted of a punch as factory says try a spaner wrench, they cost something like $17.00 from bearing suplyers and keep your locking coler from geting beaten up,
and lastly there usualy lifetime warenteed, i have reternd 3 broken ones and received a new one no questions asked each time! |
Derek Hubbard
New member
Username: Justmax
Post Number: 9
Registered: 02-2005
Posted From: 24.166.114.118
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, September 29, 2005 - 12:56 pm: | |
Thanks David:
I will take them apart to see whats going on. I have a new bearing on hand and I see the cam feature. Thanks for the info.
Derek |
david berger
Advanced Member
Username: Davidrrrd
Post Number: 161
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 172.154.34.10
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, September 30, 2005 - 09:18 am: | |
i saved all my old bearings with the broken locking part and found them usefull when i upgraded my 86 maxII to inner bearings, i saved the new bearings by swiching the old one into the inner bearing holders(flangeblocks)
now i have the new ones on hand for outside bearing duty, |
Derek Hubbard
Junior Member
Username: Justmax
Post Number: 13
Registered: 02-2005
Posted From: 24.166.114.118
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, October 01, 2005 - 03:35 pm: | |
David:
One more question, how did you attached the old outer bearing to the inner frame rail. I think I have an ideal how, but I want to make sure. I have an older Max 2 (maybe in the mid 70's). It just has the inside the axle bearing that fits onto that small shaft. I want to replace the outer bearings anyway. I am thinking you would have to drill three holes for each flangeblocks to bolt to inner frame rails. If this is true, Thanks for the info and if not please let me know how.
Derek
justmaxin |
david berger
Advanced Member
Username: Davidrrrd
Post Number: 162
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 172.162.226.30
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, October 01, 2005 - 07:14 pm: | |
THERES ANOTHER TYPE BERING HOLDER WITH JUST 2 HOLES, YOU GET THEM SPECIALE WITH A SMALLER THAN USUALE BLOCK CONCIDERING THE BEARING IN THEM AND THEY FIT OK. ON DRIVERS SIDE OF MAX FRAIM ANYWAY, ON THE PASENGER SIDE YOU NEED TO BRIDGE THE GAP, I USED 1" SQUAIR TUBEING, I HAVE SOME PICS BUT THERE TOO BIG TO POST, I'L TRY TO E THEM TO YOU. |
Derek Hubbard
Junior Member
Username: Justmax
Post Number: 14
Registered: 02-2005
Posted From: 24.166.114.118
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, October 01, 2005 - 09:02 pm: | |
Thanks David:
That info will help.
Derek |
david berger
Advanced Member
Username: Davidrrrd
Post Number: 167
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 172.134.211.96
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, October 03, 2005 - 10:07 am: | |
AND I USED REALY LONG DRIL BITS FROM OUTSIDE BODY THREW THE HOLE THE OUTER BEARING LEAVES IN BODY WHEN YOU PULL AXEL AND BEARING OUT.
1ST AFTER YOU MARK THE SPOT ON FRAIM I USED A 1/8" BIT BECAUS IT DRILS THREW EASY AND CAN BE HELD AND GUIDED BY HAND TO MAKE SHUR IT STAYS IN PLACE, THEN FOLOWED WITH THE 3/8" DRILL BIT,
USED CAREGE BOLTS AND 2 NUTS (2ND AS JAMBNUT)ON MOST OF MINE
ANYONE CAN E-ME FOR THE PICS |
steve chunn
New member
Username: Semper_fi
Post Number: 3
Registered: 03-2006
Posted From: 205.188.116.8
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, March 10, 2006 - 11:05 pm: | |
I noticed an old post from Matt:
I have a lot of brand new JLO parts for the 295/297, 340, 400, and 440. These are all in OEM JLO packaging. I can email you a list if you want. My prices are very reasonable. Let me know.
I could use some parts for a L-297. Could you contact me at schunn@aol.com. Thanks |
Restoration of older ATV's