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Bruce

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

I put the battery from my four wheeler into my Attex superchief so that my electric start would work. because my lights are always on ( but only with a battery in it) I assumed that the battery was being charged by the engine. After running for a while my lights dim and the machine will not restart with the electric start (dead battery) My machine has one positive wire and two grounds to the battery. what am I missing here? Or do I have problems with my charging/lighting coil?

How would I test this? (what voltage should I get at the battery when the engine is running--such as 14 volts on a car)

thanks for a great site!!

Bruce
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Attex Bob

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

Bruce: I have the same machine as you and I had the same problem when I got it. I didn't have a clue on what to do, but I put a meter on it and found that the regulator was burnt up. Bad news......a burnt up regulator in a machine that they no longer make!!!!!! HHHHHmmmmmmm what to do.....I went to my local Honda dealer here and begged the parts man to help me out......I showed him the regulator and he matched it up in a book he had. When it came in I hooked it up and bingo bango no more problems!!!!! You can ask Richard if he has a regulator that he wants to sell. I bet thats your problem. To test this, crank the thing up and pull one cable off your battery......if it stops.....you have a charging problem.....if it keeps running you have another. If you have any other problems let me know and I will see if I can help you. Good luck with your 6X6!!!!!
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pete6x6

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

Bruce,

More than likely a regulator. You can improvise also with snowmobile type parts also.
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tim jacobs

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

does the 295 1t kohler have a lighting coil?
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Pete Cagle (Petec)

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

yes it does ether a 55 watt metric or a 75 or 80 watt standerd coil
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Bruce

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

Thanks for the reply. I too think it is the regulator. However, I don't understand what Bob is saying. "To test the regulator....pull the wire off the battery and the engine will stop...If not then another problem." My engine runs with or without a battery. My lights work only with the battery. And my battery drains down to the point that it will not turn over the starter motor. I am pretty sure that if I start it and then pull
one of the cables off that it will keep running as it runs fine with no battery.

Thanks for any help in clearing up my trouble shotting steps.

Bruce
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Attex Bob

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

Bruce: What I wanted to say was; if your engine has a coil type system and not a magneto type system your engine won't keep running if the charging circuit and the battery is disconected. Which type do you have.......hhhmmmm 15 minutes ago I would have bet my Attex that it was a coil type system.....but I just went out there and looked at mine and hmmmmm now I'm not 100% sure. I still think it's not a mag. but just not 100% positive. I know a way I can find out for you.....tomorrow I will go out there and crank her up and pull the plug on the voltage regulator and pull the cable on the battery and see if it keeps on running. By the way...... A question for you: My Attex has a four way switch on the dash...1=off 2=run with lights on 3= run 4= crank.......is this the way your Attex is set up? Anyway tomorrow I will do this test for you and see if this thing will run with the battery and charging cir. disconected. If you have any more questions just let me know.....it's easy for me to find out because I have the same machine as you. One more thing: Make very sure you get the right polarity ( pos to pos. and neg. to neg.)when you hook up the battery or you will let the smoke out of the voltage regulator!!!!!!!
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Attex Bob

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

Hey Pete I noticed in another thread that you needed an axle for your Attex. So did I and I went to a local steel supplyer in the area and got some "cold rolled" and it works great!!! I know some people say that the axles are hardened but that was not the true in my case. How good do they hold up??? Well I went to a tough truck competition last fall and they had two to four foot jumps...yikkkkessssssssss!!!! I had to take 6 laps over 7 or 8 jumps a lap!!!!! when I got off the track my Attex axles were fine.....my back?? well......not so good!!!! It was worth it....My Attex brought home first in class!!!!!
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Bruce

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

I think I have solved my problem and it is the regulator. I tested the output at the positive wire and find only 2 volts. I tested the output at the lighting coil that connects to the regulator and find 12-15 volt. Therfore it must be the regulator!! Any help in locating one? Otherwise I will visit my local snowmobile shops.

Thanks all for the great advice!

Thanks for the site!

Bruce
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Attex Bob

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

Bruce: You can ask Richard; he might have one. Or the next best thing is what Pete said....get the snowmobile one; I think thats where the Honda dealer got mine and it works great. Get it quick!!!!!! the best season for riding is now!!!!!
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pete6x6

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

Attex,

So cold-rolled would work? Okay no problem I'll call and see where the nearest steel place is and see what they have.
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kush

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

Guys I bought muy steel from Mcmaster-Carr. They have 6 ft lengths of whatever rod you want. so if you want Stainless axles go for it! I bought a steel blade for my circular saw & cut my axles that way. What great sparks! No problems so far, & they deliver to the house. I think it was about $8.00 total. Who can argue with that! they also sell ABS plastic in rods & sheets, to repair those holes in the body.
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pete6x6

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

Kush,

I'd be interested in the abs sheets and rods. I have an Attex that got smacked in the rear really hard. Let me know if they have a website or phone # so I can get a catalog.
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Bruce

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

Bob,

did you test your charging system??
What happened?

I have not yet picked up a new regulator. for me it is not good riding. We have 3 feet of snow on the ground! Good snowmobiling though!!

thanks for your help. I have been out of town but will look at my switch tomorrow. I think it is
off-run/lights and start. I don't think I have a lights off position. but will check for sure and let you know.

Bruce
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kush

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

Try this site. Be forwarned you'll need Acrobat reader & the site isn't the fastest but it's got evrything you could ever want.


http://www.mcmaster.com/
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pete6x6

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

Kush,

Nice site they have a few things I could use.
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Attex Bob

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

Bruce: I have been out of town for a few days; I will be back on Sunday or Monday so I will see if I can get to it then. I have about 6" of snow where I am at right now but no Attex!!! Now that would be some fun riding!!!!!! And now a question for all you Attex owners: Have any of you tried to repair your Attex with the glue method or the plastic rod method????? Which do you like better?? Why?? I have a 1" hole n my Attex and want to fix it "RIGHT" the first time!!! Any input would be really nice!!!!!
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kush

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

I fiberglassed my 252 but I am going to try the ABS rod & acetone method on my 295. I think that will work better.
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pete6x6

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

Guys,

Good question I need to do alot of bodywork on mine also. I'm waiting for some goo now :)
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david berger (Davidrrrd)

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

ATTEX BOB, the welding method is only good for polyetheline bodies, for the abs bodies you need to chemweld with abs sofend with asatone, there is plenty of info on this in old posts under attex bodie repair or maybe amphicat bodie repair ( i don't remember wich)also you can ask garry in vermont, joel haslet,mike abbey,or philip osborn-(aka road wolf) thay are or have bin useing this stuff, i have done alot with it, attex used to sell the stuff to fix the bodies and i have an origanal can of it,
if you where to heat weld abs you may make i nice LQQING repair but it whould weaken the plastic and it would let go easely,
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George

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

Hey Folks,

I'm ready to put a battery in to my '74 Attex Chief. Anyone reccomend a battery type. I am buying a rectifier from Richard so I'm not too worried about the charging. I checked my owners manual and it states that the Attex came with a 12volt/32 ampere-hour rating. The highest I saw at Sears was 28 ampere-hours. Will this be sufficient? I am using the JLO 400cc. It's got pretty good compression. Will this Sears battery be able to crank it over?

Thanks,

George
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david berger (Davidrrrd)

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

i think wallmarts batteries go higher in raiting,
check with them.
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dakota

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

I have never owned an attex. however another factor is the actual size of the battery. I would sugest finding an Interstate brand battery dealer , and taking a look through there sales book . I used to work at a place that sold that brand you never know there still might be the proper Attex application in the book. I know they have every size shape style , and amperage available.
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Michael Orender (Unregistered Guest)
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Posted From: 152.163.100.203

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Posted on Sunday, April 03, 2005 - 02:58 pm:   

Help!!!
I just picked up a gravely mower with a 16 hp kohler. The mod# is not completely readable but it starts with a "K" so I suppose that it is a K series engine.The fly wheel has 1987 engraved on it, it has a coil and new points that are set to .018. I cannot get fire on the plug. The coil is not open, I've got a new battery and everything is clean. Can't find any switches in the mower that are open. What am I missing?
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Eugene Kochnieff (Unregistered Guest)
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Posted From: 210.49.50.24

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Posted on Thursday, April 07, 2005 - 06:07 am:   

Michael,

If it is a ride-on most have a dead man swith under the seat. That is you need your body weight on the seat for the ignition to fire.

Otherwise are the magneto magnets strong???

Lots of small engines are killed by guys hammering on the flywheel to loosen it to get at the points. Hammering a magnet reduces the magnetism and stops the engine from having enough spark to fire. If this is the case a new flywheel is the usual answer as few shops have the gear to re-flash the magnets.
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roadwolf (Unregistered Guest)
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Posted From: 64.229.202.253

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Posted on Saturday, April 09, 2005 - 02:21 pm:   

hey bruce, 12 to 15 volts ac is ok for a 6vdc, because you will lose half when changing to dc. you probably need a new stator "charging coil".

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