| Author |
Message |
    
Gary Faulk (Banshee28)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:25 pm: | 
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JoeB
Do you know if a 1999 max4 has the same single bearing setup as your 85?????????? |
Missouri's Max Dealer (Brandon_price)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:25 pm: |
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A '99 Max has an inner and outer bearing. An '85 Max has only an outer bearing and the inner axle is held by a bushing. The newer Max bearings are a lot more heavy duty. If you run tracks, you should have the bearing cages which add another bearing farther out on the axle for more support. |
Robert Young
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:25 pm: |
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On my 2000 Max IV, the rear bearings on both rear wheels failed. I would like to know how to remove the shaft and replace the bearings. I cannot figure out how to remove sprokets off of axel. Thanks for any input you can provide.
Robert. |
Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max dealer (Fred4dot)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:25 pm: |
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Robert, With the 2000 machine and splined axles, there are (I'm pretty sure) two set screws, one on top of the other. The inner bearing should have a lock collar like the outer bearing. The new inner bearing has a bolt and washer in the end to hold it in place, but I don't think the 2000 had it yet. There might be lock tight on the set screw and it could take heat to release it. |
Missouri's Max Dealer (Brandon_price)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:25 pm: |
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Robert, I assume you have splined axles. There is a set screw on the sprockets that you must remove, and there is another set screw under it. Remove the first, loosen the second.
Another common axle removal question is the eccentric lock collars on the bearings. Loosen the set screw on the collar. Use a hammer and punch to rotate the collar. Use the other hole in the collar to hammer, not the one with the set screw and threads. I usually hit it counter clockwise like unscrewing a bolt. Hit it the other way if that doesn't move it. Once it is loose you can slide it off.
Let me know if you have any more questions on axle removal. |
david berger (Davidrrrd)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:25 pm: |
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yah i have sean it done,
you might have too clear out some room by pulling out engine, im not shure but tim schotanus had too pull all his out once so i knoe you look for the alen set screws in sproket hub's, there are 2, after you remove the first 1 there is another below it in same hole, the 2nd one is in indent on axel that keepes it in place,
there are of coarse other steps like bolt on end of axel for iner bearing ect.. but as you asked about sprockets there you go,
but just one more thing make shure you have good quality alen tools for this, the factory used red locktight and sometimes maybe too much of it,
in tims case there were a few set screws wich were of diferent type and also hardend ones's!
this mixed bach standerd and mectric and case hardend ect..ect.. caused hime some trouble as well as over done red locktight,
he had too trill a few out and 1 with a hardend screw took 6 full sets of drill bits!
his hub was so screwed up he needed to replace it,
recreatives apolagized for the mixed set screws and also sent him a new sprocket !
so take cair and enjoy |
Louisiana Mud-Bug
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:25 pm: |
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( David Berger )
People can debate back and forth about which Amphib is better,,but,,any company that stands behind their product like Recreatives does,,,can,t be that bad.
In fact,,the more videos that I watch about the Max,and also,,the many positive comments that I,ve continued to read about "Recreatives" standing behind their Max line of amphibs,,like this one you recently posted, the more impressed I am about how they do business! |
larry wood (Unregistered Guest)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, February 24, 2005 - 08:18 pm: |
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HELP, DOSE ANYONE MAKE A GOOD BEARING FOR THE MAX4. EVERY TIME I GO IN THE WATER I CAN ONLY STAY ABOUT 30 MIN. BEFORE I GET THAT SINKING FEELING. I PULL OUT ON SHORE AND DRAIN OUT ABOUT 30 GAL. THAT'S A PAIN IN THE ?
DOSE ANYONE HAVE A GOOD REPLACEMENT BEARING NUMBER FOR MY 1999 MAX. |
John Schwab
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, March 01, 2005 - 12:33 pm: |
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Hi Larry- I have been installing bearings from NAPA part# G1104-KRRB on my Max with much better results than the OEM bearings I was previously using. They are about $25 each and seem to be doing the job. I will know more after a couple more Haspin weekends. |
William R. Cox
New member
Username: Billy_bob_cox
Post Number: 2
Registered: 12-2005
Posted From: 71.96.102.163
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, December 22, 2005 - 01:32 pm: |
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My '91 Max IV needs some new bearings. I gather it uses outside bearings only with bushings on the inside? What are the procedures for replacing them and a source for reasonably priced bearings? Also the center tire on the right is rubbing the body (at the top). These are the 26" Goodyear tires. I figure it's a bearing issue or possibly over-inflation, or worse./BBC |
Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max dealer
Advanced Member
Username: Fred4dot
Post Number: 119
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 216.166.168.53
Rating: 
Votes: 2 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, December 22, 2005 - 02:45 pm: |
|
Billy Bob, All max IVs have inner bearings, but your 91 will have the smaller bearings. You can call RI and be sure you get the right ones or you can check with a local bearing house or Auto farm parts store (NAPA, carquest, etc.) take an old bearing in and they will match it if you are sure it has the right bearings now You might want to get a repair manual before you work on it, but it is pretty simple. Remove the axle bolt that holds the sprockets and release the lock collars by tapping in the indention on the collar (DON'T use the set screw hole) with a punch (or spanner wrench as david berger suggests) opposite the direction of travel (the collar only moves a small amount and then gets tight again - if tapping one direction doesn't loosen it, try the other direction as you never know what the last person to work on it did. Your bearings could be frozen to the axle - in that case you have your work cut out. Use lots of PB blaster and a slide hammer if you have one. You can take the bearing and the outer flanges off together (by removing four nuts holding flanges on) if the axle won't slip through, but you will have to fight with the inner bearing if it is stuck.
Your tire rubbing could be too much weight in the body and deformed plastic. It can be heated up and reshaped. It takes doing several times because the HDPE has a memory. It could be a bent axle as well as what you stated. measure around the problem tire and compare it to all the rest of the tires. I would take the tire off the opposite side that does not rub and put it where the tire does rub and see. Be sure to have your machine off the ground and test for bearing movement. Try to move the wheel the same direction as the axle runs with your hands at 9 & 3 o'clock and at 6 & 12 o'clock. You can have a little movement, but if you have a lot, you need to replace bearings. |
William R. Cox
New member
Username: Billy_bob_cox
Post Number: 4
Registered: 12-2005
Posted From: 71.96.102.163
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, December 22, 2005 - 06:33 pm: |
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Thanks, Fred, for the info. The tire that's rubbing looks a little bigger OD than one that doesn't so I'll try switching them. So if I understand you correct, I can remove the axle with the bearing and flange together once I get the sprocket collar loosened? Also, do you think I will need to change the inner bushing?/BBC |
Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max dealer
Advanced Member
Username: Fred4dot
Post Number: 120
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 216.166.168.53
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, December 22, 2005 - 06:48 pm: |
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Billy Bob, There is a bearing inside, not a bushing, Just the pre about 1998 Max IIs have bushings. You have three things to loosen if you pull the axle out first. Lock collar on inside bearing, lock collar on outside bearing and bolt out of sprocket tube. The inside bearing, the outside bearing and the sprocket tube could all be rusted to the axle. If you pull the axle free of the bearings, you will need to remove the bolts that hold the two sets of flanges that hold the bearings (one inside and one outside). The outer bearing can be removed with the axle.
Personally, I would only change the bearings if they are bad (meaning you have excessive play). Some people change them just because they like to change bearings. |
bill westerfeld
New member
Username: Hillbully
Post Number: 5
Registered: 08-2006
Posted From: 65.54.154.16
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, September 28, 2006 - 06:41 pm: |
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What is the procedure for straightening out the axel while it is still on the machine?I have a 2005 Max2,and can't get the axel out,i've tried everything except dinamite. |
Missouri's Max and Argo Dealer
Advanced Member
Username: Brandon_price
Post Number: 148
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 69.27.205.85
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, September 28, 2006 - 11:06 pm: |
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Try the dynomite, it works well for any disassembly project. If you can't buy any then this is the procedure. I assume you are just hung up on the outer bearing since the axle bends right at the point and sticks. I like to replace the outer bearing after a bending an axle. Just remove the three flange bolts around that bearing and bring it out with the axle. You'll have to cut off the outer race of the bearing if you want the flange back. If it was a bad bend, just replace the flanges too since they can open up and not hold the bearing properly. Hope that helps. |
bill westerfeld
New member
Username: Hillbully
Post Number: 6
Registered: 08-2006
Posted From: 65.54.98.109
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, September 29, 2006 - 09:06 am: |
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Thanks Brandon for your reply,The outer bearing appears to be loose, as the inner, the trouble is the sprocket, the bolt is out,there is no movement there at all, I tried driving it around all day yeaterday to no avail, it is not moving.Now that winter is approching, and deer season is just around the corner, I would just settle for any information about straightening it out, any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks BillP.S. I tried moving it with a slap hammer on the hub,still stuck, |
david berger
Advanced Member
Username: Davidrrrd
Post Number: 456
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 72.72.115.123
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, September 29, 2006 - 10:03 am: |
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i was goin to suggest you use the dynomite too!
there are lot's of posts on the "in machine procedure" .. but there lost in the archives!
if you must do it in the machine you will need a floor jack, some chain with correct ends to hook back to the chain, and some blocks to put the machine on and lastly somthing solid to put the floorjack on and wrap the chain under,
i used the blade of a fork truck a few times but if you can lift the machine up high enoph even a 4x4 post might work!
simply put the post under the bent axel and set the jack on it and raies it till just under the axel hub while the axel hub is in lowest point of it's wobble.
wrap the chain thats under the post up over the axel near your bearing and lock it to it's self.
jack up the floorjack till dang tight, bend the axel a lil more than you think it needs to be bent~whait 15 seconds and release,
now with jack cloase but not toutching turn the wheels on that side to see how you did, if still bent or over bent (LOL) simpley set it up again with the hub at its lowest point and jack it up!
adgust your techniqe as nesesary till you reduce the off centerness of your axel to within 1/8 inch, as thats near as perfict as you might get in something your only gona bend again anyway.
if your in a mind to remove your axel this would be the time, when it is strait theres at least a chance the coller will come off without brakeing the bearing locking parts, they might already be broken.
if siezed a couple of hard direct hits with a mallet or directed hits with a mallet and something steal held onto the locking coller to direct the hit on at least 4 oposeing sides will expand the soft steal coller some and let it turn off the bearing ,
then you will find out if the axel will come out of machine, remove the drive bolt from the sproket tube if aplicle and bang on the inside of hub with a mallet to pull out the axel, it migh hold on tight because the axel axpands a little arround the drive bolt and even the drive tube has from time to time bin squiezed a little tight with a drive tube bolt.
it will hang up arount the hole in axel also when that hole comes to the bearing,
turn the hub as you whak at it with your mallet.
if this dosent work you can elect to remove the flange bolts and pull the outer bearing and asociated hardwhere together with the axel.
then you can straiten it out on a hydralic press!
i have used a 20 ton at work many times, it straitens axels and preses seized on bearings off the |
liflod
Advanced Member
Username: Liflod
Post Number: 108
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 151.201.211.103
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, September 29, 2006 - 10:04 am: |
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If you can get the axle out of the inner bearing with the outer removed, you can use a long puller from the inner side on the sprocket tube to pull it off the axle. If that doesn't work, you can put a piece of wood between the sprocket and outer frame rail and try to drive the axle out of the sprocket tube. The wood will protect the sprocket and the frame. |
david berger
Advanced Member
Username: Davidrrrd
Post Number: 457
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 72.72.115.123
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, September 29, 2006 - 10:25 am: |
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i was goin to suggest you use the dynomite too!
there are lot's of posts on the "in machine procedure" .. but there lost in the archives!
if you must do it in the machine you will need a floor jack, some chain with correct ends to hook back to the chain, and some blocks to put the machine on and lastly somthing solid to put the floorjack on and wrap the chain under,
i used the blade of a fork truck a few times but if you can lift the machine up high enoph even a 4x4 post might work!
simply put the post under the bent axel and set the jack on it and raies it till just under the axel hub while the axel hub is in lowest point of it's wobble.
wrap the chain thats under the post up over the axel near your bearing and lock it to it's self.
jack up the floorjack till dang tight, bend the axel a lil more than you think it needs to be bent~whait 15 seconds and release,
now with jack cloase but not toutching turn the wheels on that side to see how you did, if still bent or over bent (LOL) simpley set it up again with the hub at its lowest point and jack it up!
adgust your techniqe as nesesary till you reduce the off centerness of your axel to within 1/8 inch, as thats near as perfict as you might get in something your only gona bend again anyway.
if your in a mind to remove your axel this would be the time, when it is strait theres at least a chance the coller will come off without brakeing the bearing locking parts, they might already be broken.
if siezed a couple of hard direct hits with a mallet or directed hits with a mallet and something steal held onto the locking coller to direct the hit on at least 4 oposeing sides will expand the soft steal coller some and let it turn off the bearing ,
then you will find out if the axel will come out of machine, remove the drive bolt from the sproket tube if aplicle and bang on the inside of hub with a mallet to pull out the axel, it migh hold on tight because the axel axpands a little arround the drive bolt and even the drive tube has from time to time bin squiezed a little tight with a drive tube bolt.
it will hang up arount the hole in axel also when that hole comes to the bearing,
turn the hub as you whak at it with your mallet.
if this dosent work you can elect to remove the flange bolts and pull the outer bearing and asociated hardwhere together with the axel.
then you can straiten it out on a hydralic press!
i have used a 20 ton at work many times, it straitens axels and preses seized on bearings off the axel with eaze,
before reasembly you might wish to file the tight spots on your axel for easyer smoother replacement in the machine, |
Mike Maroni
Intermediate Member
Username: Micmac
Post Number: 62
Registered: 07-2005
Posted From: 162.84.111.49
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, September 29, 2006 - 12:48 pm: |
|
If you're going to replace the axle you might save yourself some time and cut the axle in half on the outer side of the sprocket and the you can have a machine shop press the rest out of the sprocket tube.
Just my opinion but if the axle is bent then replace it. It will cause more problems down the road with bearings, flanges, water tightness etc.. Just my $.02. Also it's a new machine no sense running it with bad parts |
david berger
Advanced Member
Username: Davidrrrd
Post Number: 459
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 72.72.115.123
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, September 29, 2006 - 02:59 pm: |
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mike i spent the winther last whaking the left rear axel hub trying to pull an axel out of my maxII, because i disagree with your opinion it seams.
at $130.00 or more that axels worth straitening!
if it is a solid axel it will be easy enoph to straiten.
the hollow ones get a silly spagety shape when straitend several times but the solids are much better, i know this as i bend axels all the time!
i fix most in the machine cause it happens mostly to me when theres more rideing to do!
but between times theres the 20 ton press at work thatl freshen up an axel nicely.
if bill can get the axel drive bolt back in he would do well to straiten it in the machine,
but as lance (LIFLOD)has said a puller if you find one that fit's will push it out, eventualy this is how i removed the frozen inner bearing from my left rear axel.
prehaps a few raps on the side of the drive tube with a hand mallot(please dont hit the sproket)
on 4 opoaseing sides might loosen the rust and also expand the drive tube enoph to alow it to drag itself out of the drive tube when smacked with the mallet on back of the hub.
once mine began moveing it took all day long to pull it out that way.
thats why i file the high spots down befor puting them back together, now some enginears going to disagree with me but... i think if the drive tubes had grease fittings we could prevent the tubes from seazing to axels.
but the mushrooming of axel meatel arround the drive bolt will happen anyway, (prehaps get worse)
but from the prespective of one who has bin there, when you kill yourself beating on an axel hub all day long, day in and day out~youd take the chance on some grease in there!LOL |
Mike Maroni
Intermediate Member
Username: Micmac
Post Number: 63
Registered: 07-2005
Posted From: 162.84.111.49
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, September 29, 2006 - 08:11 pm: |
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David,
I don't disagree I was in the same predicament last year. I finally gave up and cut the darn thing out of the machine. I used it for an excuse to upgrade two of the axles to solid. I'm just offering a second option if Bill needs one. What do you think is the most common cause of bent axles? Discounting wheelies of course  |
liflod
Advanced Member
Username: Liflod
Post Number: 109
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 24.3.234.58
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, September 29, 2006 - 08:45 pm: |
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1st Trees
2nd Big Rocks |
Don Kinyon
Member
Username: Oldnatva
Post Number: 34
Registered: 04-2002
Posted From: 69.175.14.6
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, September 29, 2006 - 10:31 pm: |
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>>What do you think is the most common cause of bent axles?<<
Landings. |
philip w.cox
Advanced Member
Username: Philipatmaxfour
Post Number: 218
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 216.209.98.166
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, September 30, 2006 - 09:32 am: |
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Don, You are so right! Going up or out is easy, it's the coming down that sucks. I am having a banner year keeping the rubber down, so I 'm not complaining. W.Philip |
david berger
Advanced Member
Username: Davidrrrd
Post Number: 461
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 72.72.115.123
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, September 30, 2006 - 10:48 am: |
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big trees, big rocks , landings have something in common, speed!
at a crawl none would harm an axel,
a little more speed and they might, still more and they probly will, still more and thay shur do, but still more speed and even the little trees-rocks n landings can also! |
bill westerfeld
New member
Username: Hillbully
Post Number: 7
Registered: 08-2006
Posted From: 65.54.154.13
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, September 30, 2006 - 05:40 pm: |
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I drove my max2 around all day yesterday, with everything loose,inner & otter collars& sprocket out,today when I checked it out I saw that the sprocket must have spun, because I could no longer see the hole,I made a jig to attach the hub to a slap hammer & banged on it all morning, but it is still stuck Behind the hub is a plate, it is off. but it looks like there is another plate, next to the body the 1st one has a zerk fitting the 2nd one does not, does this one have to be removed also?David your right, bolders are tough on the body and the machine, but it was going off a bank that it in.I want to thank everyone for their input,Monday I will continue banging on it,I not being one to give up. |
david berger
Advanced Member
Username: Davidrrrd
Post Number: 462
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 72.72.115.123
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, October 01, 2006 - 04:48 am: |
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i only found the strenth to continue after mesurements showed some progress, each time you stop to catch a breath you could check the mesurments to see if it has moved.
how heavys that slide hammer?
maybe a sledgehamer would help more. |
bill westerfeld
New member
Username: Hillbully
Post Number: 8
Registered: 08-2006
Posted From: 65.54.97.193
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, October 01, 2006 - 09:30 pm: |
|
David, it looks to me like it may be easier just to remove the brake mechanism, and cut the axel, and then remove it, the slide hammer is about 3lbs or so,I would guess.I measured the exposed shaft on both sides, and it looks like it has moved very little.Do I have to remove both flanges on the outside?,or just the one with the zerk fitting?After this adventure, I will be riding slower, and take no rocky trips. |
david berger
Advanced Member
Username: Davidrrrd
Post Number: 464
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 72.72.115.123
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, October 02, 2006 - 09:26 am: |
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just the one with the fitting will work, if the bearings frozen to shaft the measure of how far the bearing has moved would be same as the distance from the bearing to the inside flanget half, or body.
too bad you cant get that bolt back in!
the invehicle meathod of straitining axels dose work well, i do it all the time!
david |
bill westerfeld
New member
Username: Hillbully
Post Number: 9
Registered: 08-2006
Posted From: 65.54.154.13
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, October 02, 2006 - 09:44 am: |
|
Hi Dave, I have decided that today instead of banging the S''T out of it, I will put it all back together,minus the bolt,and straighten the axel as you said.and use it without the bolt.Once I notice that the wheel is spinning free, then I will take apart.Did you get my message about your movies?Bill |
david berger
Advanced Member
Username: Davidrrrd
Post Number: 465
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 72.72.115.123
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, October 02, 2006 - 02:27 pm: |
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hi bill,
i hope this will work for you then, i can remember trying stuff like that a few times over the years,
funny how they can hold for so long you might forget your expirementing on em,LOL
your e-mail:
nope but i havent looked at my old aol address for a while, i should chaing it in my profile i guess, i mainly use the yahoo one.
davidrrrd at yahoo.com
thats the adress but i did it this way to keep down the unnesesary links |
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