| Author |
Message |
    
David Sanders
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:25 pm: | 
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I got an e-mail back today, from one of the engineers at Recreatives,,responding to my question about imformation on the 27 hp Max IV,,and also, the new bearing design, that Recreatives is looking into, for all the futute Max models.
This is the email I was sent:
"We are looking to have a 27hp engine available sometime this year as long as all the testing goes well. A better bearing system is in the design process. It has been proven, however, that proper bearing maintenance will prolong bearing life and leakage extensively." |
Mark Muranyi
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:25 pm: |
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Guys, I am currently doing some prelimenary work to install a Geo engine in one of my Terra Tigers. It will be in the rear. I also am designing a new transmission that will complement that engine. Due to other projects it most likely won't be done for Humphrey 2003 but should be by 2004. |
david berger (Davidrrrd)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:25 pm: |
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wow mark!
sounds like it'l need a realy tall shifter, heh heh heh
like in them ol 1970's t-shirts! |
mark harding (Promoza)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:25 pm: |
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trying to find 2 break calipers to fit either a attex or a Max they look the same if anyone can help
thanks mark |
John Martin
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:25 pm: |
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David--When a person bores the cylinder out they must do one of two things: A. Buy a larger new piston to fit the new bore. B. Use a machined sleeve that fits the new larger bore in the block and it allows you to use the standard size piston. When you bore the engine block you are increasing the displacement i.e., cubic centimeters (CC) or cubic inches (CI) which means you will have more power with the larger piston provided adjustment to air/fuel mixture is compensated for the new volume that your motor is compressing. A small draw back I believe is that you lose some of the integrity of the engine block. This comes from the amount of heat produced by the larger bore and of the slightly less material to dissipate the increased heat. I think the better way to rebuild is to bore the engine block and then re-sleeve it back to the dimensions of the original size piston. If you want more power I would suggest a higher compression piston and a good air cleaner/ free flowing exhaust system or for two strokes a performance expansion chamber for the exhaust. As far as the 2 stroke and 4 stroke cycle engine explanation goes, they are related to the number of times the sparkplug fires on the compression cycle. A 2 stroke’s sparkplug fires every time the piston comes up (the second stoke is the piston going down) while the 4 stroke's sparkplug only fires every other time the piston comes up. The 4 stoke engine uses the 1st stroke down for the intake of air/fuel mixture through the intake valve. 2nd stroke is back up a hair past Top Dead Center where the sparkplug fires and ignites the mixture. 3rd Stoke is the force of the explosion pushing the piston back down. 4th Stroke is the piston pushing the spent gases up and out through the exhaust valve, now your back to the start of the 1st stroke where the intake valve opens back up for the new air/fuel mixture to start the cycle over again. The 2 stoke motors do not have proper valves that are lifted by a camshaft like the 4 stroke has, instead it uses reed valves or another type of one-way flow valve to let the air/fuel mixture into the cylinder. The four stoke has proper valve(s) that let air/fuel into and other valve(s) that lets the spent exhaust out of the cylinder. The 2 strokes are a simpler design with less moving parts but the draw back is the torque curve is not nearly as smooth as the 4 stoke. The 2 stokes do have their places, you need to keep them revved up in their optimum powerband where they can be very fast if set up right! Hopes this helps you and whoever to understand a little more about what's going on inside your engine. |
John Froage (Unregistered Guest)
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 65.255.78.8
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, May 22, 2006 - 12:30 pm: |
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I just bought a 1996 MaxII. It creeps forward in forward gear, but does not creep backwards in reverse gear. All else seems to work well. Somebody tell me what to adjust.(and how to adjust it)
Thanks, |
Jerry R. Nuss, Max Dealer in Illinois
Senior Member
Username: Jerrynuss
Post Number: 319
Registered: 02-2005
Posted From: 71.244.222.199
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, May 22, 2006 - 02:14 pm: |
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I believe you are meaning that when you have it stopped and idling it wants to move forward when it is in forward gear and when in reverse it sits and doesn't move. Is this correct?
If so that is about how it should be. In reverse with no one holding the control stick the springs pull and apply the brakes. In forward the springs are pulling and no brakes are being applied. This is why a person should start and park the machine in reverse. And apply the parking brake.
What is your idle speed? I would look at the idle speed first and if it is a little fast, then slow it down and see if the creeping stops.
If the idle speed is correct I would check the belt tension. The drive clutch should be spinning but the belt should not be spinning. So either the belt is not original or the correct part number, or the distance between the engine and transmission is off, or the clutch is not disengaging. It may just need lubed with silicone spray or it may need rebuilt.
These are just a few ideas you may want to try. It is impossible to diagnose the machine over the internet so I am only making suggestions on what I have seen in the past. If I were to bet money I'd check idle speed. |
John Froage (Unregistered Guest)
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 65.255.78.8
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, May 22, 2006 - 05:00 pm: |
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First, thank you for the response. I am so new and so dumb about Max that you could sell me beach front property in Oklahoma. Yes, I must hold the sticks back to keep the Max from moving forward. When the engine is at idle and Max is in forward gear, it moves forward until I pull back on the sticks. I have dixon ztr lawnmowers and am expecting similar responses. Wrong huh?? Maybe the unit is supposed to move forward unless the sticks are held back?? I don't even know where the drive belt is. Is it about and inch and a quarter wide and on the drivers side of the unit? I note that the belt is moving when in neutral and at idle. Again, thanks for your response.}}} |
Jerry R. Nuss, Max Dealer in Illinois
Senior Member
Username: Jerrynuss
Post Number: 320
Registered: 02-2005
Posted From: 71.244.222.199
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, May 22, 2006 - 10:04 pm: |
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It shouldn't take off or run away at idle. Yes you have described the drive belt. There should only be one belt on your machine. Some other older machines have multiple belts. Anyway try slowing down the idle. I would guess it is too fast. How does the machine run when you are actually wanting to move? When you put it in neutral and give it some gas do the clutches move in and out and squeeze and release the belt? You can spray some silicone spray inside the clutch. There is a dome or bowl shaped piece and then a gap and then the part the belt runs on. Spray between the two metal parts. On the driven clutch on the transmission, spray the part of the clutch that has a spring visible. The silicone spray wont hurt anything. |
Jerry R. Nuss, Max Dealer in Illinois
Senior Member
Username: Jerrynuss
Post Number: 321
Registered: 02-2005
Posted From: 71.244.222.199
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, May 22, 2006 - 10:07 pm: |
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Oh I forgot in the last post. Register on this site! That way you can be contacted by members of this board that may live close to you and help you out. The board is an excellent source of informatin and most guys are willing to get together and help you work on your machine and go riding. |
John Froage
New member
Username: Jfroage
Post Number: 1
Registered: 05-2006
Posted From: 65.255.78.8
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, May 23, 2006 - 07:22 pm: |
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Ok, the clutch is moving in and out as engine rpm increases or decreases. The belt is turning ALL of the time. I used the silicon spray on the between the dome and the flat plate of the clutch. Didn't change anything. The belt must be to short, and not the oem belt. Also, the tranny is very difficult to shift. If you hold back on the sticks, it shifts very easy, but the sticks must be held back very firmly. Is this because the belt is turning? Must be huh!!. Went for a "swim" this afternoon, and notice a little water in the bottom. No noticeable flaws in the tub, so the axles must be allowing water in. What do I do about that. Also, how can I jack the max up to remove the wheels? If I stay on the frame and use a 2X4 will it be ok?? (crossways or longways ??)Let me tell you straight out, this machine is a great big load of pure fun. I love it. That floating on the water is a really, really neat, and when the tires grab at the shoreline it just zips right up the bank and onto the shore. What a rush, seems like you are defying some law of nature. I await and welcome any and all advice. Thanks. |
Jerry R. Nuss, Max Dealer in Illinois
Senior Member
Username: Jerrynuss
Post Number: 325
Registered: 02-2005
Posted From: 71.244.222.199
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, May 23, 2006 - 07:38 pm: |
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Did you slow the idle down? If the belt is engaging it can be hard to shift, you may get a grinding sound. The machine should not be moving, at idle and the brakes applied (sticks pulled back solid to shift). If it is hard to get into gear rock your body a little to move the wheels and it should go into gear. Some shift easier that others. The more broken in it seems the easier to shift.
Is there a name or number on the belt. For no older than your machine is it could be the original belt. They last a very long time. The belt should not move at idle and should look slack, then as you increase the rpm it will start to engage and tighten up. For the water, it depends. If it is just a small amount don't worry about it. You can give each bearing a little grease and check the flanges for uniform tightness. I person can get water in from a bunch of areas. Obviously around the axles and flange seals but also from the exhaust opening, between the body halves from splashing and entry, and from loose plugs. They are a whole lot of fun. You should go on a group ride when you get a chance and meet up with others. |
John Froage
New member
Username: Jfroage
Post Number: 2
Registered: 05-2006
Posted From: 65.255.78.8
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, May 25, 2006 - 04:03 pm: |
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Good Afternoon,
Please tell me how to remove the drain plugs from my MaxII. I hope this is simple.
Spent most of yesterday and today removing the wheels from the max. Greased the bearings and sealed the flanges with RTV Silicon. Anyone know how many zerks are on the max excluding the six on the outside?
My engine is mounted to far back from the main drive, and the drive belt runs ALL of the time. Hope to slide the engine forward to get some slack in the belt, but haven't tried that yet. The engine is mounted on a slotted frame, so hope to loosen the mounting bolts and move it forward just a bit. Thanks for any help and or advice. I appreciate it. |
Jerry R. Nuss, Max Dealer in Illinois
Senior Member
Username: Jerrynuss
Post Number: 329
Registered: 02-2005
Posted From: 71.244.222.199
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, May 25, 2006 - 05:25 pm: |
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Drain plugs? If they are just the plastic push button caplugs, just pull them out with some pliers from the outside. They may get destroyed. It is a good idea to have spares. To keep them from getting torn up the next time you remove them spray them with silicone spray before you insert them. |
david berger
Senior Member
Username: Davidrrrd
Post Number: 361
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 72.72.122.140
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, May 25, 2006 - 06:05 pm: |
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the plastic plugs are available at auto body supply stores,
box of 100 for under $10.00 |
John Froage
New member
Username: Jfroage
Post Number: 3
Registered: 05-2006
Posted From: 65.255.78.8
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, May 26, 2006 - 12:15 pm: |
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The adjustment on the engine mounting will not allow the engine to go far enough forward to get enough slack in the drive belt.The belt is a dayco max 1039, what is the number of a longer belt I could try ??? The present belt lets the machine run about 3 mph in forward gear, when the engine is running at 800 rpm. I welcome any ideas, since the machine is very difficult to shift under these conditions. Thanks for any help. |
Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max dealer
Advanced Member
Username: Fred4dot
Post Number: 172
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 216.166.168.53
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, May 26, 2006 - 01:28 pm: |
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John, you need a Dayco # 15252AA (or equivalent). Go to NAPA or Carquest (or equivalent).
You should be able to put the belt on and take it off without loosening anything. It will be tight, but you can walk the belt over the driven pulley. If it won't go on, it is too short, if it goes on and off easily, it is too long. A belt that is too short will not release and a belt that is too long will not allow you to reach top speed.
Once you have the right belt, if you will use belt dressing on it regularly, you will extend its life by at least 50% and always have excellent performance. |
david berger
Senior Member
Username: Davidrrrd
Post Number: 363
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 72.72.122.140
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, May 26, 2006 - 02:26 pm: |
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im shure eventualy you will nail this problem.
but heress an idea i hope you wont need.
~terra jet uses a brake on there driven pully~
just so you know you have options if the normal solution dosent present itself. |
John Froage
New member
Username: Jfroage
Post Number: 4
Registered: 05-2006
Posted From: 65.255.78.8
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, May 26, 2006 - 02:46 pm: |
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I guess I am going to have to rebuild the engine mounting to move it closer to the drive axle. I tried carquest and NAPA, and two other local auto supply dealers to no avail. They cannot cross reference the belt. Thanks for the help I appreciate it. |
Jerry R. Nuss, Max Dealer in Illinois
Senior Member
Username: Jerrynuss
Post Number: 330
Registered: 02-2005
Posted From: 71.244.222.199
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, May 26, 2006 - 03:20 pm: |
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Why not just order a new factory belt and get rid of the one that is on it instead of moving the engine? You can order a new belt from Richard Clark, the owner of this website or from any of the Max dealers in your area or on this discussion board. |
david berger
Senior Member
Username: Davidrrrd
Post Number: 364
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 72.72.122.140
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, May 26, 2006 - 03:56 pm: |
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how about trying a small engine or power equipment shop,
snowmobile dealers- repair shops.
one thing thatl help would be to mesure the belt.
not just the width across the top but a length mesurment, mark it with something, a piece of tape maybe and mesure it around back to the mark.
beleave it or not even though they have a code name in the catelogs there often is a mesurment of width and lenth someone who cross referencing can also go by,
yah i know there are diferent angles of v arround but thats just a way to complicate this prosses, just go for it and you will find a belt.
i did it this way for several machines i have had in the past and it worked every time!
when i did not have an oridganal belt i had a cut one i placed in the center of driven and at edge of drive pully and mesured the gap or overlap and used this diference when i layed it out on the floor to mesure it to get a new belt size.
i might be useing this methode again soon when i reasemble my maxII cause for the first time it will have a real 2 stroke engine mounting system and my 440cc kz is not an O.E.M. engine + i probbly have a 4 stroke driven pully on my trans.
(9 1/4" across)
if you havent any of the above mentioned shops nearby you can serch online too,
one online snowmobile parts place is AlsSnowmobile.com
and of corse here on route6x6 mr clark has a large selection of belts, if you get that mesurment he might have one! |
John Froage
New member
Username: Jfroage
Post Number: 5
Registered: 05-2006
Posted From: 65.255.78.8
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, May 26, 2006 - 06:24 pm: |
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I thank you guys for your help. I have never used a discussion board, and this is really neat. Seems like you have friends everywhere.
I don't know that this is the OEM belt. This machine is a 1996 that I bought off Ebay, and I suspect has been this way for a long time. I have a new (in the sleeve) Dayco max 1039, that came with the machine. It seems to me that replacing the belt with a new 1039 would only make the problem worse. It needs to be longer, not shorter.
I think I need to reposition the holes in the frame, about one inch. I can drill the frame at the front of the present slots, and gain about one inch forward. I tend to think one inch is enough to get me where I need to be. I am going to get my neighbor to help me tomorrow, and give it a try. Not much to lose. If this works out, I will have a new Dayco max 1039 belt in reserve. If anyone has any more thoughts, let me know. I am certainly a rank amateur at this business. Thanks in advance. |
Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max dealer
Advanced Member
Username: Fred4dot
Post Number: 173
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 216.166.168.53
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, May 26, 2006 - 06:45 pm: |
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John, I agree with Jerry; why not just get the belt that fits?
If you ever sell it and the guy tries to put on the right belt, he will be here on this board trying to find out why the correct belt doesn't work - just like you are trying to find out why the wrong one doesn't work. It will cost you more in time and future problems to reinvent the wheel than to buy one of the correct belts. A drive belt lasts for about 300 hours (if you use belt dressing regularly). That $10.00 you are going to spend extra to get the right belt doesn't amount to much on a per hour of use basis.
If you will tell the fellows who sell belts that the Max is made by Recreatives Industries, they can look it up in their books and will be given the right crossover number. Tell your NAPA guy to try harder - they, themselves, make a replacement belt for the Max II (or at least they used to). |
philip w.cox
Advanced Member
Username: Philipatmaxfour
Post Number: 176
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 216.208.38.107
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, May 26, 2006 - 10:26 pm: |
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John Froage, Stop for a second.Take a deep breath. Look at the advice that you have been given by Jerry and Fred Sowerwine. These guys are experts on any subject related to the exact machine that you are having trouble with. You say that your machine is amazing. I agree! I own a Max IV. Coming up to 3 years of harder and harder driving it still amazes me every time I go on a ride. You will see messages from people on this board who bought used machines and will not contact the factory to help them maintain it .Do unnecessary modifications and then complain about poor build quality. These people are hard to help. Do not join them.Most of us go to several rides every year and just want to see more and more happy owners that come out to our rides or otherwise support our sport. Get the right belt!!!! When things have gone a little wrong and your machine has water in it and that belt gets you back to shore anyway, you will praise it. Call Recreatives on their toll free phone. They will tell you which belt you need. the same one Fred says you need, and tell you where to get it. they put one on the bus to me once. You can cary the belt you,ve got now for a "get home spare" W. Philip Cox |
jim stefanowicz
Member
Username: Maxindetroit1
Post Number: 28
Registered: 03-2005
Posted From: 68.248.83.246
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, May 26, 2006 - 11:47 pm: |
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Get the right belt, you shouldnt have to go through all the trouble of moving the engine. This machine worked fine out of the factory, with the right belt, you shouldnt have to drill holes and move anything, call RI tell them your problem and they will get you what you need ASAP. Good luck. |
david berger
Senior Member
Username: Davidrrrd
Post Number: 365
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 72.72.22.107
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, May 27, 2006 - 11:05 am: |
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try the 1039, notthing to lose, |
John Froage
New member
Username: Jfroage
Post Number: 6
Registered: 05-2006
Posted From: 65.255.78.8
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, May 27, 2006 - 11:09 am: |
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Ok guys. I bow to peer pressure and common sense. My neighbor is traveling South today and will go by several atv shops and he is going to check on the belt. If he has no luck I will contact Richard Clark or RI Tuesday.(Monday is a holiday) I put the drill up and wound up the extension cord. I promise I will be a good boy until I get a new belt. Everybody has given me very good advice and I really appreciate it. Thanks to all, and hope you all have a really good weekend and holiday. |
John Froage
New member
Username: Jfroage
Post Number: 7
Registered: 05-2006
Posted From: 65.255.65.139
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, June 11, 2006 - 05:08 am: |
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Good Morning,
Well guys, I fought this belt thing to the end. The OEM application calls for a Dayco Max 1039 according to RI. Somehow, somplace, sometime, sombody has made some changes to the machine. The 1039 will not work. I removed the 1039, turned it inside out, and ground off the inner edge with a right angle grinder held in a vice. I carefully maintained the contour of the belt, and ground off about 1/8 of an inch. Works perfectly. Don't seem to have lost much if anything on the top end speed, which I expected. Max now sits perfectly still at idle and works to perfection. Shifting is easy, and works very smooth. While I agree that this is not the best solution, I just didn't know what else to do. Hand grinding the belt is a mess. I wore a paint mask, and put a large fan behind me, but still had a big mess to clean up when finished. I sealed the axle flanges, and greased the axle bearings. No more water leaks. Been fishng several times and stayed dry. Thanks for all your help. |
philip w.cox
Advanced Member
Username: Philipatmaxfour
Post Number: 179
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 216.208.194.57
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, June 12, 2006 - 12:40 am: |
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John, You are to be congratulated for finding a fix that works. If you ever discover why you had to do this we will be listening. Happy Riding W. Philip Cox |
John Froage
New member
Username: Jfroage
Post Number: 8
Registered: 05-2006
Posted From: 64.250.213.26
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, June 15, 2006 - 04:24 am: |
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Good Morning,
Has anyone come up with a satisfactory arrangment to steer an electric trolling motor. My arm isn't quite long enough to do this manually. Does anyone know of a way to steer remotly? I am thinking a throtle cable arrangement similar to large outboards. I would appreciate any information. Thanks. |
david berger
Senior Member
Username: Davidrrrd
Post Number: 379
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 72.72.92.214
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, June 15, 2006 - 08:39 am: |
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some folks report goodoperation when mounted in the frount, thus they can stear them and all that.
just turn the controls arround first,
then mount to frount of your machine. |
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