| Author |
Message |
    
brent
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:33 pm: | 
|
to follow up on this i spoke with a guy at argo. There are more reasons for the argo to leak water and for the axle to have movement ...its not always the bearing. Over time you will see two wear marks where the outer seals rub grooves in the axle, this will cause a leak. Secondly over time the bouncing over bumps...the bearing will actually wear down the axle. So if you install a new bearing with a worn down axle there will always be play and the bearing will wear out in no time. You can swap axles from the front with the axle extensions and use these in the back but eventually these axles will have to be replaced. |
stephen boland
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:33 pm: |
|
I talked to argo too. That is why I,m building mine with duuble sealed bearings with double extended inner races on the outer bearings, which accomadates a outer seal that rides on that extened inner race instead of the soft axel. As for the bearing wearing out the axel. sounds like the bearing collars should be tightened down more. There is no excuse for the bearings inner race to wear the axel down. Any macheinists out there that would like to comment on this? |
Attex Bob
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:33 pm: |
|
I agree with you on the axel problem. The bearing should act as a bearing; not as a sleeve. The inner race should fit tight on the axel. |
BMoreland
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:33 pm: |
|
I have just bought a used 2001 Bigfoot and am reading the bearing stuff. As a machinist with 37 years experience in the trade, I will have to wait and see when the bearings become an issue. The last post that bearings should be tight on the shaft is absolutly correct and anything else is just ruining new bearing shaft seat diameters. There is a "range" of acceptable diameters for any given bering. This range is usually just a few tenths of a thousadth of an inch. Thats .0001 of an inch. If the shaft is to big the bearing will wear out the rollers from the inside. If the shaft diameter is to small, the shaft seat of the bearing will "work" on the shaft and further damage the shaft and also the shaftseat diameter of the bearing will be ruined so even if you do get "correct" replacement shafts, you won't be able to use those bearings because they will be too loose on a correct shaft and will ruin the new shafts. Ya gotta have everything right at the same time. I hope I made this clear enough for a non machinist to grasp. |
Jerry R. Nuss
New member
Username: Jerrynuss
Post Number: 7
Registered: 02-2005
Posted From: 66.20.228.203
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, March 20, 2005 - 01:41 pm: |
|
I am in the middle of a bearing change and I see the same problem with the seals rubbing grooves in the axles. Stephen do you have a bearing brand and part number with that long sleeve extension? I still need to use an arbor press to remove the outer bearings and get to the seal flange plate so I quit for the day. I kept getting water in the lower tub so I finally filled it up with water and found the leak was from the seal and axle surface. So after pulling the axle and sliding the flange I found the grooves in the axle and a loose sloppy fitting seal. So I think you are on the right track by using a harder surface on the axle. If not an extended bearing then a sleeve press fit on the axle. I even thought about welding a bead then turning them back to spec but that doesn't seem like a good solution. |
Rogersmith
Member
Username: Rogersmith
Post Number: 22
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 4.244.174.32
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, March 20, 2005 - 08:52 pm: |
|
Jerry, I use common oil seals with a garter spring and an outboard wiper seal. They'll seal in a different spot on the axle. The seal dimensions are common enough that local parts stores have them. I got National brand at a bearing supply.
Also I think someone said argo sells thin sleeves to slip over the wear grooves. |
Marc Stobinski
New member
Username: Jerseybigfoot
Post Number: 1
Registered: 06-2000
Posted From: 68.193.116.132
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, March 20, 2005 - 09:17 pm: |
|
You can use the following as an inexpensive solution to the grooving problem. You will have to make up an installation tool from a piece of tube or pipe. http://www2.chicago-rawhide.com/speedi_sleeves.htm |
Jerry R. Nuss
New member
Username: Jerrynuss
Post Number: 8
Registered: 02-2005
Posted From: 66.99.149.244
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, March 21, 2005 - 02:44 pm: |
|
I checked into the speedi sleeves but have not been able to find any locally. I checked on brazing and turning on a lath and got a quote of $45, and new axle was quoted at $47.
A different seal location that Roger mentioned is the best solution I have seen. The dealer gave this an option, also to add a washer on the end of the axle to move the axle slightly so the seal is out of the groove. |
fred sain (Unregistered Guest)
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 12.168.170.104
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, March 28, 2005 - 10:37 am: |
|
The shim on the end of the axle will work. Best solution, have the machine shop turn down the axle, and weld with a hard surface rod, then turn back down. This will give you many more hours than original equipment. |
Shop Talk: Tech Tips and Q&A section 
Closed: New threads not accepted on this page