| Author |
Message |
    
craig rothamel
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:23 pm: | 
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MAX 11 OR ARGO BIG FOOT
not sure witch one i sould go with.will need tracks down the road.max needs a kit for tracks not sure about the big foot.so give me some help with this.
craig in jersey |
Mark Rader (Chinook101)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:23 pm: |
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I just bought a 20003 MAX IV 850T when I went home for
vacation. I had it exactly one week and maybe 5 hours on
the thing. I was running up a riverbed, miles from nowhere
when the throttle cable broke at the throttle lever. Great,
now what do I do? No tools, huge mosquitos and a thunder
storm moving in. The only thing I had with me was a cheap
(really cheap) leatherman style tool on the keychain. At
first I tried pulling the cable out of the sheath from the carb
side and feeding it back thru from the throttle to try to
screw the frayed end into the set screw at the carb. This
would have woked had the cable not been so frayed and
the wire cutter on the "Leatherman" actually cut wire. But,
after several unsuccessful attempts at trying to push the
cable thru backwards and loosing a pint of blood to
the mineature vampires, I decided to try to rig the choke
backwards and use it as a throttle. I disconnected the
choke cable from the choke and made several "slight"
bends hooking it up to the closed throttle at the carb. Now
when I pushed the choke lever in, the engine would
accelerate. Took some quick throttle jockeying and lever
pulling to get back down the river, but I made it back
home. I called RI and told them what happened and they
sent me a new Aluminum throttle and heated cable the
next day-free-. They told me they were having problems
with the old plastic throttles cracking. I love that machine,
what a tank. By the way, anyone else have a problem with
bending the tire rim lips? Also, when I go down a dirt road,
the machine doesn't like to keep a straight track and pulls
to the right slightly, I have to keep compensating by pulling
left stick all the time. Any suggestions? |
Missouri's Max Dealer (Brandon_price)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:23 pm: |
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Great story, Mark. A leatherman has come in handy on a few of my adventures and it pays to have a good quality tool. Good thinking with using the choke as your throttle. You must have got one of the last '03s with the plastic handle. All my new machines have aluminum and it is 1000 times better than the plastic. It only took RI 30 years to change that design, but better late than never.
I have bent the edge of the rims on rocks while creeking. It won't hurt anything as long as you don't bend it so bad that it affects the area where the tire seals. Just be a little more careful when driving over rocks or other hard obsticles. Let the tire go over it instead of the rim dragging across.
It can be difficult to make a skid steer drive a strait line. With your new machine, it is probably uneven tire pressure. Make sure all six tires are running equal pressure. If it is pulling to the right you probably have less air in one or more of your right tires. |
david berger (Davidrrrd)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:23 pm: |
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yah i got 1, just put your new aluminum throtle on the left laterel, this will alow you to operate the machine some times with just the left hand,now you can use the right hand to hold a soada or a camcorder, heh heh heh |
Midwest atv's #1 since 2000 (Hustler)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:23 pm: |
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The pulling can be a bunch of things, different air pressure in the tires, one tire on one side being a little bigger then the rest, the chain on one side is tighter then the other side, mud or water in one tire.
Best thing to do is air up each tire with the same air pressure and check to make sure each tire is the same size, by measuring around each tire. Then check the chains to make sure they are all tighten about the same. Try it then if it still pulls to one side, then change the tires to the other side. Put all the tires from the left side to the right and vise versa. If it pulls to the same side, then it is not the tires, if it pulls to the other side, then it is the tires and you might have mud or water in one or more tires. Just weigh each tire and see if one is heavier then the others. Hope this helps a little. |
Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max dealer (Fred4dot)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:23 pm: |
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Mark, Give it some time to loosen things up. The o-ring chains are probably still a little tight (the factory sends them out tight so the initial stretch isn't a big factor). It will take at least 25 hours to break your machine in and even then, your chains probably won't show much stretch. If your air pressure is OK, check your weight distribution. If after 25 or 30 hours, it still pulls one direction, maybe you need to check into it. |
Gary McGowan
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:23 pm: |
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Hello All.... Great site. I just bought a used 1989 Max IV. It may be a little old but it looks like new. Was obviously well maintained over the years. When I make a sharp turn I get what sounds like a popping noise comming from I think the chains. Is this a normal thing or do I need to have something checked? Thanks for any help. Gary |
Missouri's Max Dealer (Brandon_price)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:23 pm: |
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The popping noise is probably worn out sprockets. They will start to hook the chain instead of just rolling it freely. They need to be replaced when the teeth start to look more like hooks instead of points.
If it is more of a grinding noise, that would be tranny chatter and is normal. |
Gary McGowan
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:23 pm: |
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Thanks for the help Brandon. I will try to have them replaced on my trip from NH to Miami. Do you happen to know of any shops that can replace the sprockets that would be close to the east coast? Also, should I go ahead and have the chains replaced? Thanks again for all the help.
Gary |
Midwest atv's #1 since 2000 (Hustler)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:23 pm: |
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Gary,
I would think it is either your T-20 and that is normal or maybe one of your sprockets going bad. |
Gary McGowan
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:23 pm: |
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Thanks Brandon.... I guess being that old it deserves new sprokets. I will inspect them tomorrow. Will it hurt anytbing if I use it for light driving while I'm in NH? When I get back to Miami I will get new ones. Should I also replace the chains at the same time?
Gary |
OOJIMMYC
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:23 pm: |
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HI GARY, IN REGARDS TO YOUR CLACKING SOUND ON YOUR MACHINE. CHECK THE CHAIN TENSIONER. IF THEY ARE OUT OF ALIGNMENT OR HAVE BROKEN TEETH, THAT COULD CAUSE THE NOISE. THEY ARE SIMPLE TO CHANGE. ONLY ONE BOLT. RICHARD CLARK HAS THEM FOR $20.00 A POP. JIM |
Mike Siri
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:23 pm: |
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NEW MAX IV OPERATORS
We have a new 1999 Max IV 900-T which maybe has 20 hours on it. It belonged to a friend who used it two times, then parked it. (It was serviced before our use.) My father is 88 years old and just began to use it to get to his duck blind which he can no longer walk to very easily, and the machine has worked well. (He has perhaps run it for a total of 3 to 5 hours total.) The last weekend of duck season, 1/24/04, however, we drove out and back parked the vehicle and when we returned to go out again, it would not steer left at all. It would go forward with a slight veer to the right, and would not steer properly to the right, only slightly, not locking up the wheels. It would go in reverse again with a bias to the right, and no steering whatsoever could be done in reverse. When the left handle was moved for reverse steer a noise could be heard much like a clutch disengaging or freewheeling. This caused a major loss to the last weekend of duck season and with dad being 88, he doesn’t have many days of hunting to lose. Does anyone have any ideas as to what could be wrong? Since the machine has such low operating hours, I’m hoping it may just be an adjustment problem. I can’t imagine it would be a major transmission problem again since it has so few hours on it. All suggestions would be greatly appreciated since we are new Max operators. By the way, just how durable are these machines?
Many thanks,
Mike |
Mike Siri
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:23 pm: |
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NEW MAX IV OPERATORS
We have a new 1999 Max IV 900-T which maybe has 20 hours on it. It belonged to a friend who used it two times, then parked it. (It was serviced before our use.) My father is 88 years old and just began to use it to get to his duck blind which he can no longer walk to very easily, and the machine has worked well. (He has perhaps run it for a total of 3 to 5 hours total.) The last weekend of duck season, 1/24/04, however, we drove out and back parked the vehicle and when we returned to go out again, it would not steer left at all. It would go forward with a slight veer to the right, and would not steer properly to the right, only slightly, not locking up the wheels. It would go in reverse again with a bias to the right, and no steering whatsoever could be done in reverse. When the left handle was moved for reverse steer a noise could be heard much like a clutch disengaging or freewheeling. This caused a major loss to the last weekend of duck season and with dad being 88, he doesn’t have many days of hunting to lose. Does anyone have any ideas as to what could be wrong? Since the machine has such low operating hours, I’m hoping it may just be an adjustment problem. I can’t imagine it would be a major transmission problem again since it has so few hours on it. All suggestions would be greatly appreciated since we are new Max operators. By the way, just how durable are these machines?
Many thanks,
Mike |
Attex Bob
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:23 pm: |
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Mike, this does not sound good to me if you have checked the obvious, like is the chain on the left sprockets? How do the laterials (handles, sticks bla, bla, bla) feel? Do they feel normal?
I know on my Attex the tranny shifter linkage is very week. They bend VERY easy. If this happened to your Max, it's an easy fix!!! Bend it back and your in business!!! Look it over very well and see what you think? I would say that you have about a 90% chance that thats the problem!!!
Other than that, it could be a broken pin, a broken band. Make sure that you don't have a simple problem like a chain or linkage problem first. If all that is good, then it will be something more serious like a broken band or you shucked the friction material off of the band.
I think they are very durable. But like anything, you can get a bad one, or have weird problems. From what I have read about your machine, you have a good one (900-T)
There are many on this board that will give you more help. Good luck Mike. |
Missouri's Max Dealer (Brandon_price)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:23 pm: |
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Mike, Give us a little more info on how the sticks move. Does one move farther than the other? Is the tranny full of ATF fluid?
In my experience, these machines need regular maintenance. Beyond that they are nearly impossible to tear up. Believe me, I've tried real hard.
Where are you located? |
John Williford (Willi)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:23 pm: |
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Subject: Max IV with corroded axle bearings.
My Max IV 900 is exactly three years old, but may be close to being economically totaled. I have used it for duck-hunting in our family-owned river bottom marsh 20 miles upriver from the Texas coast. This season, the Maxx started major leaking and I took it to the dealer from whom I purchased it. Apparently, there was some salt water content in our marsh, and the dealer's head mechanic tells me that all the inside bearings are rusted to the axle shafts. Basically, he is saying that all three axles + inside and outside bearings\fittings for six wheels may need replacing.
He did say he could try to pack the inside fittings with silicone, which might keep the ATV from leaking for one season at a time, but they can't guarantee it. But that procedure, plus adding a bilge pump, looks better than the $ 3-4 thousand to replace all the axles and wheel parts.
I have been reading this bulletin board for the first time, and now see that amphibious ATV users in or near salt water wash out the inside thoroughly and recommend re-lubing all the bearings each time they use the machine. Our hunting location is remote and performing this degree of maintenance appears to be time-prohibitive. Frankly, I would not have bought the ATV if I knew that much maintenance was required.
All suggestions and comments welcome. |
masteratver
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:23 pm: |
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You need to contact Richard Clark operator of this site route 6x6
he has new axles and so on at good prices. I jusy bought a set
of new solid axles for 75$ each. About you rlast statement, maybe
you would be better off junking machine as our machines do need a
lot of mainatance, much more than say a honda, but then you would
have to get a wrecker to get your honda from off the bottom
of the swamp Robert |
liflod (Liflod)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:23 pm: |
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3-4 k$ ? That sounds really expensive. Even at $50 for each bearing, that's only $600. You should be able to get bearings closet to $25 each. I doubt the axles are ruined beyond use. It may take you a while to get all the axles out of the machine, but you should be able to rebuild it yourself for less than $1000.
How much maintenance did you figure a 6 wheel drive machine with 12 bearings and 30 + feet of roller chain needs? |
masteratver
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:23 pm: |
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John
According to Richard price sheet
6 outside bearings 90$
3 inside bearings 45$
3 axles 225$
Total 355$ parts
He is charging you 4000$
So 4000 - 355$ = 3645$ for him.
What does everyone think is 3645$ a fair price? Ha Ha
Seriously 1000$ should cover all including labor, sounds
like your fine dealer is SCREWING you big time.
Robert |
tropicjungleboy
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:23 pm: |
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HEY MIKE:
forget about the silicon stuff........keep handy a 14oz hand grease pump and fill it up with marine or trailer bearing grease.....after each use you must pump grease to replace water and contaminant from bearing....use wd40 spray (or similar) over chains.......light oil is better than heavy oil due to excesive adherence to dirt into the sprockers...better wd40 over chain often....15 minutes labor and you should be done!!!....sure a bilge pump is a must on any floating device (aatv) just by logics!!!..even the better quality bearing means nothing if you use on salty ambiance and don"t replace grease often |
Missouri's Max Dealer (Brandon_price)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:23 pm: |
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Bearings seize on the axle all the time. My '99 Max II did the same thing and it wasn't in salt water (just severily abused). Pull the axle out with the bearing stuck on it (unbolt the flange). Put it in a hydrolic machine press and that will make short work of any stuck bearing. Your local machine shop can take care of it for you in just a few minutes. Mine actually made a huge pop when the bearing broke loose. A good quality bearing will run you about $30 and you'll be rolling again in no time. |
Evert
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:23 pm: |
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John
Maybe you should consider taking your machine
to Richard or Brandon who ever is closest to you.
Better yet, learn to do the repairs yourself, the
machine is really just a bunch of simple parts, dirt
and time seems to be the worst things to them
Evert Kroger |
david berger (Davidrrrd)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:23 pm: |
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add to what brandon said above you sohould look into geting corect spaner wrench for the tightining of the lock collers, and loosening also if not rusted on from many years of wether,
otherwise yes the removel is alwase a shur thing when you just pull the bearing flange and axel all together, i do it this way almost every time,
i keep extra flangets and bearings and axels for quick trail side repairs too!
the spaner will keep your bearing coler from getting eaten up by the punch they tell you to use |
John Williford (Willi)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:23 pm: |
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Subject: MAxx IV with corroded axle and bearings
I really appreciate all the great comments, and in less than 24 hours! This is a great website with devoted readers who own these machines.
A couple of follow-up comments and questions:
1. This dealer (I know his family, who are good people) is in a small Texas town but has only serviced a few Maxxes. His main business is 4x4's. I think he is more concerned about getting into a job with unknowns and losing money.
2. His mechanic says all six inside bearings are corroded to the axle. According to him,unless he can loosen at least one of them on each axle to slide it through, it will take a cutting wheel to get them out, possibly sacrificing the axle. Does this make sense?
3. I feel somewhat "had" on this problem. Neither the dealer nor the Owner's Manual provided any warning about salt water and the need to spray lubricant on the interior bearings. All the Manual states is to lubricate the bearings once a year, which I have had done. [It is not self-evident to me that an amphibious vehicle would require the interior bearings to be lubed after each use--I don't think it is unreasonable, in the absence of a warning, to assume that they are sealed and impervious to corrosion.] And I am not using this Maxx in real salt water. The salt content in the water is so mild that our cattle drink it.
4. I feel that Recreative should replace the axles and bearings at factory cost. If I had been properly warned, I don't think this would have happened because, as with all my outdoor gear, I have taken good care of this vehicle-- always kept it in a barn when not in use, always washed out the inside and sprayed the chain with motorcycle spray lube, and had annual maintenance done on it each year by a dealer. Am I off-base here in making this request to Recreative? Maybe it's cheaper and easier to just buy the parts from Richard from what I am hearing from you guys.
Thanks for the responses. Willi |
Paul Howard
New member
Username: Flyboy
Post Number: 1
Registered: 04-2005
Posted From: 69.201.194.23
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, April 12, 2005 - 09:57 pm: |
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Hello to all.
I just picked up a fairly new/used Max IV. Unfortunately, I do not have the owners manual. This machine has been sitting in a garage for the past two years without being run.
Can someone direct me to....
1. An on-line owners manual? Checked the manufacture's web site, but none listed.
2. In lieu of the manual...what maitenance should I perform prior to running it? I will change the oil's and lube eveything, but was wondering what the manual might suggest.
3. I noticed the chain is rusty??? Any particular type of grease I should use? And what's the best way to apply?
Sorry for all the questions, but I am at a lost without the manual right now.
Thanks In advance, Flyboy |
david berger
Member
Username: Davidrrrd
Post Number: 39
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 172.128.91.97
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, April 13, 2005 - 10:33 am: |
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your local cycle shop should have a spray on chain lube thats oddly called "chain lube"
another favoret of some folks is bar and chain oil as used by chain sawes because it's sticky,
and still others just pore 40wt motor oil on them,
yes grease if you like, whichever you like is fine.
far beter to lube them with something as aposed to nothing att all and letting them rust till they brake on you,
i usualy keep mine protected by an even coating of dirt, heh heh heh
you can find manuals for stuff from the "shop "off the main page, or call richard clark directly or recreatives ind. directly for this manual, but you only just need your common sence to do a good enoph job. |
Paul Howard
New member
Username: Flyboy
Post Number: 3
Registered: 04-2005
Posted From: 69.201.194.23
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, April 13, 2005 - 10:44 pm: |
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Thanks David for your response.
I have another rather generic question...
The Max will not start unless it is jumped by either my car or while on the battery tender? Once I remove the tender, she just cranks a few times but will not turn over? Attach the tender, and she starts right up/ I brought the battery to a shop and it tested fine. Once started, I can drive it around as long as I want, but once again, when turned off, she will not crank over enough to start. |
david berger
Member
Username: Davidrrrd
Post Number: 42
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 172.158.104.51
Rating: 
Votes: 1 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, April 14, 2005 - 09:11 am: |
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it's called calsification,
my moms old plymoth valiant would start sumer threw winter on only 3 cranks, we dident know it but the batery had calcifyed up and there was only three cranks in it!
so when she got rid of that car and i tryed that battery in my car~three crancks and thats all!
so it wouldent start mine,
some times you can bring a calsifyed batery back from it's condition but not too often,
a good tender wil have a decalcifyer puls mode you can activate after it reaches a full 12 volt charch, (mine is: "BATTERY MINDER MODEL 12112")
this is more for maintanence then repair though,
if your batery is on the tender all the time when not in use and this happend then maybe you need another brand of tender, bottom line might be a new battery is needed,
it is posable sometimes to brake up the deposetes with very heavy loades and then fully chargeing and repeat killing it under heavy load and charge cycle till it begins to have more capasity,
thats more work though concidering a new one from wall marts only $25.00 |
david berger
Member
Username: Davidrrrd
Post Number: 43
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 172.158.104.51
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, April 14, 2005 - 09:16 am: |
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p.s. i just replaced my starter in my maxIV becaus it was slow like a dead batery, i dident try it with jumper cables though,
anyway the older starter i had once removed from it worked just fine when i put it in,
are your baterys cable conections to batery good?
seams the charger and jumper cables might have had beter contact with your cables than maybe your batery dose, there may be some oxedized lead between the post and cable. |
Fredryck T. Macko
Junior Member
Username: Ftmacko
Post Number: 9
Registered: 04-2005
Posted From: 68.227.127.65
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, May 01, 2005 - 08:58 am: |
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Good Morning Folks,
It's Sunday morning and I'm in Oklahoma City after picking up my new MaxIV yesterday in Ponca City. The previous owner did not have any body plugs for the max. We have not been able to find the right size plugs at the local auto parts stores. The brother in law and nephew are besides themselves with curiousity and I myself have to admit to a strong urge to "give her a spin". Any ideas on where to find some "plugs" on a Sunday morning? |
Anonymous
Posted From: 66.20.225.43
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, May 02, 2005 - 08:32 am: |
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I didn't think the Max IV required plugs. I was under the impression by this forum that the Max IV has such a low weight to tire surface area that it would not break the surface tension of the water. Like a spider it will just walk on water. The holes are there to be used as ice fishing ports.
Seriously, I doubt you will be able to find some plugs on that short of notice...if it was an Argo you could go to a Wal-Mart, hardware store, boating store. etc. As it has been said before "You bought the wrong machine"
Ok, really
You can buy a stock of plugs from a dealer. They seem to sell them in bulk supply and they are not very expensive. I am concerned you bought the machine without testing it in the water, hopefully it will be water tight. Be careful the first time and take a throw rope with you and wear a pfd. Don't take anyone else out in the water until you have tested it yourself. I say take the rope in case you need someone to pull you back to shore in case it doesn't swim or move forward. I did this when I first got mine and it tokk me 45 minutes to get back to shore. It was no fun just floating along 10 feet from the bank hoping the wind would push me along. |
david berger
Intermediate Member
Username: Davidrrrd
Post Number: 53
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 172.156.75.204
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, May 02, 2005 - 10:08 am: |
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well sundays gone now, so if you still need them try auto BODY suplly stores.
the places that stock paint and bondoe,
the bondoe spreders and sanding thingys, thats where to get em fer cheep at that! |
Bud (Unregistered Guest)
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 167.230.104.90
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, May 02, 2005 - 09:36 am: |
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I'd only use the correct plugs, but I have an aversion to unplanned swimming events. 
Brandon Price can hook you up with plenty of plugs for yor Max. http://www.RealATVs.com
Bud |
Midwest atv's #1 since 2000
Junior Member
Username: Hustler
Post Number: 17
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 64.136.49.229
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, May 02, 2005 - 08:40 pm: |
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Any Max dealer should have plugs in stock. |
Fredryck T. Macko
Junior Member
Username: Ftmacko
Post Number: 11
Registered: 04-2005
Posted From: 216.45.133.13
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, May 03, 2005 - 07:51 am: |
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Morning all. Just got back to Mississippi last night. I found plugs at Home Depot in the hardware section. I took her swimming in my brother's pond yesterday evening. The 26" tires moved her around admirably whether there were 3 of us riding or just myself. The pond was full of weeds in areas which actually seemed to provide additional grab for the tires. Thanks guys. |
scott karkos
New member
Username: Carcass
Post Number: 2
Registered: 04-2005
Posted From: 68.108.188.3
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, May 11, 2005 - 11:10 pm: |
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Just had a new Max IV shipped to me.Took 6 days, not too bad. I thought that the semi would have a way to get it off, but stupid me, it did not. I had to back my F250 up to the back of the trailer, place a couple of 2x10's on the tailer to my bed, and then roll the Max into my truck bed(it fit pretty good). I then had to back up to my driveway(it's sloped) and then push the max out of the bed and to the driveway.
Once I popped the engine cover off, I saw that the drive belt was very loose. It had 2 and 1/2" of play. Is it normal for RI to ship it that way? I had to make my own shims to tighten the belt since they did not send any. I was a bit upset that the adjustment wasn't done at the factory.
It started right up after putting gas in it, and after figuring out the shifting, it went pretty good. I'll be taking it out this weekend to try it out in the desert. |
Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max dealer
Intermediate Member
Username: Fred4dot
Post Number: 58
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 216.166.168.53
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, May 12, 2005 - 11:50 am: |
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Scott, My guess is that the drive belt was right as it came from the factory. The best way to test for tension is to try to walk it off the driven pulley (the one on the tranny). It should come off with out loosening anything, but it should be hard to get off - you have to twist it to get it to slip between the body and the pulley if you are taking it off completely.
You didn't say what model you bought, but the drive belt on the 900T (and probably the 950T) appears looser than on other machines.
If you want always good performance and extended belt life, use belt dressing right from day one. I use the liquid stuff from NAPA ( put it on both edges of the belt with my finger) whenever I service. If you use the spray stuff, take the belt off to spray it so you don't make a mess in your machine or get it in the starter.
If this is your first Max, please take the time to red the manual and enjoy your machine. |
scott karkos
New member
Username: Carcass
Post Number: 3
Registered: 04-2005
Posted From: 68.108.188.3
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, May 12, 2005 - 09:39 pm: |
|
Fred:
The manual says that the belt deflection should be 1 and 3/4 inches. Mine was 2 and 1/2". I could easily take it off without twisting the belt. It's an 850T.
I've already been reading this forum and the manual, so I've been studying. I'll be calling if I come across problems(of my own making or other......) |
Wildlife Control
New member
Username: Johnd
Post Number: 5
Registered: 03-2005
Posted From: 24.255.86.40
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, May 14, 2005 - 10:28 pm: |
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Any of you guys heard of a dual shift Max IV? Theres one advertised on Ebay. Ad says each side can spin independently of the other - one forward , one in reverse.
Just curious - I've been reading this site for several months now and I've never heard it mentioned. |
Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max dealer
Intermediate Member
Username: Fred4dot
Post Number: 59
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 216.166.168.53
Rating: 
Votes: 1 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, May 13, 2005 - 10:57 am: |
|
Scott, you are there so what you say is OK with me. But, I know it is very hard to measure deflection on a Max because there isn't much room and you need a straight edge from one pulley to the next. Personally, I wish they would discard using deflection as a means to determine belt tension. The drive belt has to be loose enough to allow for the machine to stay put at idle and loose enough to allow the pulleys to expand and contract as they will when at work. It is best to watch the pulleys and belt while they are working (both pulleys will loosen up with use). My general policy is to not do anything concerning adjustments until after the machine is broken in (20 to 25 hours).
Over the years, there are only two things that I do to every machine that comes in: (1) is to lubricate the throttle cable as they never seem to come in full and (2) is to check for uniform tightness of the axle bearing flange bolts as there always seems to be at least one loose bolt and one really tight one on each axle. The chains are always a little tight (to allow for initial stretch). I have found that the factory does a pretty good job of having them "ready to go". |
Fredryck T. Macko
Member
Username: Ftmacko
Post Number: 22
Registered: 04-2005
Posted From: 216.45.133.13
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, May 15, 2005 - 01:07 pm: |
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John,
I couldn't find the auction you're referring to. I bet this is just a case of a seller unfamiliar with his or her's auction item. If you are of mind to, you can point out this error by using the contact the seller link. The seller would probably appreciate the correction to avoid a transaction dispute occurring later on. |
Missouri's Max Dealer (Brandon Price)
Member
Username: Brandon_price
Post Number: 23
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 69.27.205.49
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, May 15, 2005 - 08:27 pm: |
|
I saw the ebay auction with the dual shift. That was his own home made shifter. All it does is separate the left and right shifters on the T-20. With this mod, it is possible to shift one side into forward and the other into reverse. Some lay claim to a huge improvement but I've had a vehicle with it and didn't like it one bit. A big hassle to shift both levers and virtually zero maneuverability improvement. I found no terrain that was more easily navigated with 'zero turn' over skid steer.
I agree with Fred on the belt adjustment. With the belt over tightened, you may have trouble with the vehicle "creeping" at idle. |
Jerry R. Nuss
Member
Username: Jerrynuss
Post Number: 37
Registered: 02-2005
Posted From: 68.156.75.1
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, May 15, 2005 - 03:42 pm: |
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The listing is not a mistake. The seller listed it as a machine with the T-20 split or shifter split. Some people make this modification, in this case it was done to this machine.
The modification has been discussed in detail on route 6x6 under the build the ultimate 6x6 topic.
just go look for it under T-20 split. |
Wildlife Control
New member
Username: Johnd
Post Number: 6
Registered: 03-2005
Posted From: 24.255.86.40
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, May 15, 2005 - 07:11 pm: |
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Its listed under "6 wheeler'
There are 7 days 10 hours left on the auction.
I copied the following:
MAX FOUR 4 AMPHIBIOUS 6 SIX WHEELER 6 X 6 ATV DUALSHIFT
Vehicle Description
Pictured is a Max IV 6x6 amphibious vehicle. It has a 25hp Kohler engine, heated throttle cable, two stage air breather, dual shifter conversion system, hour counter, 26 inch tires with solid axles, all O-ring chains, two electric winch, l/2 inch square tube steel boat rack with windshield and luggage rack. This is truly an all-terrain vehicle. It can carry four people and go places no four-wheeler can go. It is stable in water of any depth—it’s right at home in mud, snow, on lakes, ponds, creeks, hills and so on. You can even fish out of it.
Vehicle Condition
This vehicle is in good condition. It is a 1999 model with 233 hrs. on it. It has all O-ring heavy-duty chains, which are in good shape. Engine, tires, seats, and body are all in good condition no tears or damage.
Terms of Sale
Standard equipment:
Headlights, taillights, hour counter, forward and reverse gear, electric start, heated throttle cable, trailer hitch, steel chassis, skid plates, and an almost unbreakable high-density polyethylene body.
Upgrades Included:
Dual shifter conversion (This upgrade allows each set of wheels to be engaged independently so one set of wheels can pull forward and the other can pull backwards at the same time, allowing you to turn in your own tracks.) This can help you in tight spots. The single shift system is clumsy in wooded areas and creek beds where sharp turns are necessary. Also, turning when backing is also a problem with single shift system. |
Fredryck T. Macko
Member
Username: Ftmacko
Post Number: 23
Registered: 04-2005
Posted From: 216.45.133.13
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, May 15, 2005 - 08:15 pm: |
|
Well, I just found that auction in other vehicles. I don't think he was making a description error. His description follows:
Dual shifter conversion (This upgrade allows each set of wheels to be engaged independently so one set of wheels can pull forward and the other can pull backwards at the same time, allowing you to turn in your own tracks.) This can help you in tight spots. The single shift system is clumsy in wooded areas and creek beds where sharp turns are necessary. Also, turning when backing is also a problem with single shift system. |
Wildlife Control
New member
Username: Johnd
Post Number: 7
Registered: 03-2005
Posted From: 24.255.86.40
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, May 15, 2005 - 07:04 pm: |
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I'll see if I can find it again |
JHOG (Unregistered Guest)
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 204.58.127.10
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, May 16, 2005 - 11:17 am: |
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Okay, so is there a dual shifter option on a Max 4 that allows one side to rotate a different direction than the other? |
scott karkos
New member
Username: Carcass
Post Number: 4
Registered: 04-2005
Posted From: 68.108.188.3
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, May 16, 2005 - 03:04 pm: |
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Fred:
Took it out this past weekend with no problems. The max did not try to inch forward in idle, so I guess I did not get it too tight. Ran it in a small creek and had no trouble. Went into loose gravel and again, no problems. Need to get used to going down a steep area. Felt weird being that far in front and going down.
How do you go about lubricating the throttle cable?
and yes, I don't know how all that crap finds its way into the bottom of the MAx. Pulled out twigs and other items. My right front disc brake is sqeeling so it must have got something in it and will clean that out soon.
One more thing: the bolts that hold down the front floor keep coming out. What can be done to keep them in place?
So far, I am a happy Max owner. It did some incredible things. Fred, where are you in Montana? We might be coming up in August(Dillon, Butte area) and may want to stop by for parts or to say "hi." |
Jerry R. Nuss
Member
Username: Jerrynuss
Post Number: 39
Registered: 02-2005
Posted From: 66.20.226.9
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, May 16, 2005 - 05:48 pm: |
|
The dual shifter is not a factory option, and I doubt recommended either. Basically it is just disconnecting the single shifter that controls both rods going into the transmission. The rods are then controlled with the addition of a second shifter. So it allows a person to put one in the forward position and one in the reverse position. The idea is to have the vehicle spin in a circle without dragging the inside tires and adding drag and resistance. I don't really see where it would be a big advantage, of course I have one of the "3 wheel drive" transmissions in my 6x6. There have been posts on here how to do it and one of the posts has a link to photos. |
Fredryck T. Macko
Member
Username: Ftmacko
Post Number: 24
Registered: 04-2005
Posted From: 216.45.133.13
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, May 16, 2005 - 06:30 pm: |
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I may be wrong about this but the tightness of your drive belt may also have to take in account increased idle speeds during warm up in cold weather. Power is supplied to your transmission through a centrifugal clutch, therefore, the higher engine revolutions while in choke during cold starts may cause the belt to engage or partially engage at a tension that does not provide problems during warmer weather. I bet some of these other guys can elaborate on this. |
Fredryck T. Macko
Member
Username: Ftmacko
Post Number: 25
Registered: 04-2005
Posted From: 216.45.133.13
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, May 17, 2005 - 02:02 pm: |
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I just raised both the front and rear seats of my MaxIV 3 1/2" with $18.00 and 45 minutes of light labor. I used 16 1 3/4" Barrel Nuts with 5/16" threads. Eight of them were screwed directly onto the seat lugs. I threaded eight 3 1/4" pieces of 5/16 threaded rod into the top of them and then spun the remaining eight barrel nuts tight against the first eight. This left aproximately 1 1/4" of threaded rod protruding to secure the seats with. Four semi circles cut with a jigsaw into the backseat floor and it sits just as it did before. While I know it certainly cannot be as strong as it was before, I can not feel or tell that it moves or flexes any more than before. That 3 1/2" of extra leg room sure will be welcome up front but where it really makes the difference is in the back seat. I'm sure I'm not the first one to do this but thought I'd share it with whomever's interested. |
Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max dealer
Intermediate Member
Username: Fred4dot
Post Number: 60
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 216.166.168.53
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, May 17, 2005 - 11:13 am: |
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Scott, Belgrade is about ten miles west of Bozeman and I am about 8 miles north of Belgrade. Would be glad to meet you if get in the area. I don't have much in the way of parts for a couple of reasons: (1) parts sales and repair business is about "nil" (throttle levers and throttle cables are/were my biggest seller and RI changed both of them) and (2) RI is so good about customer service that I get stuff in about 5 days through the mail (ten days by UPS ground) and I can get it overnight if necessary.
The more you use your max, the more impressed you will be (both get better with experience). Going downhill can be a little tough both on the arms and on the mind. When I go down something steep, I partially engage the tranny brakes right at the top and ride them all the way down (the only time I use the foot/ holding brake is when I get hung up trying to change gears and have to body rock the machine to get the gears to line up. Your brake squeal is probably just newness and will go away.
I have not yet seen the new throttle lever and cable so maybe this information is useless. It is valid for the old cable and throttle lever. RI sells a lube kit with an adapter that allows you to spray stuff in the throttle cable (included in the maintenance package). You can also use a long skinny hypodermic needle (slip it carefully along the cable while holding the throttle lever back - I use a rubber band or a wire tie to hold the handle back) and syringe body (take the plunger out or at least have it loose enough so air can get in) to gravity feed lube in by having the front of the machine a foot or more higher than the back of the machine (the steeper the incline the better). As stuff starts dripping out at the engine, lower the front of the machine and fill the cable case full. It takes about 8 cc to fill any empty cable.
You might try a neoprene washer to keep those screws tight. If the threads are stripped, you can tap around the hole with a hammer and a punch to reshape the metal or use a bigger metal screw.
About the drive belt. I think the kohler engines (for whatever reason, I don't know) are looser than the Briggs engines. The belt on my 900T and Buffalo truck are looser than the belts on the 600Ts (that is all I have in stock so all I can check). I don't think loose drive belt tension (within a half an inch or so) is an important parameter on a centrifugal clutch. The width of the belt is what drives the machine. I use belt dressing on both drive edges so the grip is always there. A loose belt will reduce your top speed fractionally, a too tight belt will wear out quicker and prevent the pulleys from working properly. I doubt that you got your belt too tight - the important thing is that it moves easily on the pulleys when the engine is not running. |
Fredryck T. Macko
Member
Username: Ftmacko
Post Number: 26
Registered: 04-2005
Posted From: 216.45.133.13
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, May 17, 2005 - 08:27 pm: |
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By the way, someone tell me what the spring clip on the passenger side of the motor mount of the MaxIV is for. It's about 2" tall and two sides are about 7/8" apart. It looks like what might be used in an automobile to hold a tool kit, jack, or roadside kit. |
scott karkos
New member
Username: Carcass
Post Number: 5
Registered: 04-2005
Posted From: 68.108.188.3
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, May 17, 2005 - 06:57 pm: |
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Thanks Fred. The screws are not the normal type screws. They are something different. They have a knob at the end simliar to a dzu fastener used in racing, but it doesn't seem to lock in like the dzu fasteners. Minor issues.
For what its worth, the teenagers who got to drive it said it was "tight." I know I am getting old when I had to ask what that meant. They liked it better that a regular ATV. I'll be taking it out in few weeks to have some more fun. Can't wait to get it up to my property and chase turkeys.... |
Fredryck T. Macko
Member
Username: Ftmacko
Post Number: 27
Registered: 04-2005
Posted From: 216.45.133.13
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, May 18, 2005 - 12:44 pm: |
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Oops, actually that spring clip is mounted via rivets above the right rear wheel on the fender. It is not actually on the motor mount. Can anyone tell me what went there or might go there? |
Anonymous
Posted From: 64.70.24.54
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, May 18, 2005 - 03:58 pm: |
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Fredryck the clips that you are talking about are to carry a spare belt. |
Missouri's Max Dealer (Brandon Price)
Member
Username: Brandon_price
Post Number: 24
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 69.27.205.49
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, May 18, 2005 - 05:57 pm: |
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That clip is a spare belt holder.
The quarter turn screws in your floorboard are a very common issue and I don't know why RI doesn't come up with a fix right now. The screw locks into a clip on the frame. It usually helps to bend that clip open wider, so the screw is held tighter. Give that a try and it should keep them from falling out. |
Fredryck T. Macko
Member
Username: Ftmacko
Post Number: 28
Registered: 04-2005
Posted From: 216.45.133.13
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, May 18, 2005 - 08:34 pm: |
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I have an answer from the factory to my own question. That spring clip is to hold a spare drive belt. It seems they mention it in the operator's manual but do not specify where exactly to find it because they have mounted it in a variety of places and may change it in the future. Not specifying where it is negates the necessity of changing the owner's manual.
P.S. It's starting to look like I"m talking to myself! |
Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max dealer
Intermediate Member
Username: Fred4dot
Post Number: 61
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 216.166.168.53
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, May 18, 2005 - 04:27 pm: |
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Todd, it is to hold a spare drive belt. |
Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max dealer
Intermediate Member
Username: Fred4dot
Post Number: 62
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 216.166.168.53
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, May 19, 2005 - 07:09 pm: |
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Scott, I must admit that I was thinking of the machine screw models, but the washer helps on the kind you have also. You have to push in when you turn the fastner, but the tension created by the neoprene washer seems to keep them in place longer. |
(Unregistered Guest)
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 63.67.88.15
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, May 20, 2005 - 09:45 am: |
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a few notes about the split shifter for the t-20.
its not for the beginner it takes some effort and time to build.
the max iv frame is not heavy duty enough to handle the increased load created by running both banks of tires in oppisite directions. i had to add support to the frame and t-20 mounts because of shearing the t-20 mounting bolts and wallowing out the bolt holes. i also had to add the clutch kit to reduce the engine bog when i use the split shift on hard ground.
whinning about two shift levers is like whinning about having a winch hanging on the front of your aatv. you got it, you use it to get out because without it you would not. i have had my dual shifters for some time now and have logged over a hunded hours using them. i would not have a 6x6 that didnt have the t-20 split. it makes certain situations easier to get out of. i remember a tight spot i got in before i had the split that i needed help to get out of, if i would have had the split i could have gotten out by myself. i slid down a slope sideways between some pine trees. i was bloked front and rear and could not skid steer around to get out. i had to winch the front end around to get out. i dont need to use it every time i go out but i do. i have grown acustom to having the ability to 0 raidus turn and i incorprate it into my driving.
when i ride its with others on 4-wheelers. the last ride had over 30 4-wheelers. when we stop for a break it gets crowded quick. if i want to leave i just split shift the tranny, spin to a open spot and drive out. without the split shifter i would have to start asking people to move to make room for me to turn around. tring to back out of a maze of 4-wheelers would be a pain.
the kids love to get in and hollar spin! just about every stop here they come. i find a open spot in the mud and load them up, hold the throttle wide open and drill holes in the ground till i start to get sick. (gettin old sucks)
i have fun with it and am glad i spent the time to build it. |
(Unregistered Guest)
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 63.67.88.15
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, May 22, 2005 - 11:36 am: |
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brandon price,
i responded in haste yesterday to your post about the t-20 split. after thinking about it i decided to respond again but more directly.
i believe your comment:
Some lay claim to a huge improvement but I've had a vehicle with it and didn't like it one bit. A big hassle to shift both levers and virtually zero maneuverability improvement. I found no terrain that was more easily navigated with 'zero turn' over skid steer.
is based only on opinion or superficial/limited experience not real experience. if you had any real time to speak of behind the sticks of a split t-20 you would realize the advantages of the split and how much of a hassle it is not to have two shifters. besides, the split is used for convenience not to navigate terrain.
for details on the advantages of and the required additional bracing to have a split t-20 on a max iv refer to the thread: http://www.route6x6.com/discus4/messages/9/13383.html?1109217232
or go to: "lets build the dream atv,tips and tricks" thread - "started the t-20 split project yesterday" post. |
Jack Irwin
New member
Username: Dexterkid
Post Number: 3
Registered: 04-2005
Posted From: 24.247.201.134
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, December 12, 2005 - 07:01 am: |
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I have a 1994 Max II. Bought it last May. Believe it or not I used it for the first time this Month deer hunting in S.E. Ohio. I had problems with both the throttle and choke cable freezing up when the temperature drop below freezing. I do have the newest throttle cable. One can see how the throttle may get water in it since it points upward and even has a cavity to hold water which, of course, drains the water down into the cable. I blew this cable out from the engine end and now cover this cable when not in use. Oh yeah, I did break the plastic that pulls on the cable so I still have a repair to do. However, the choke cable is another story. Since this cable comes out 90 degrees from upward I don't know how water get in. I haven't blown this cable out yet (too cold to work on it) but will. Does anyone have any ideas on these problems? Maybe different cables that may be more suitable for winter use. Thank you, Jack |
Bud Dunn
New member
Username: Budtx
Post Number: 9
Registered: 11-2005
Posted From: 167.230.104.90
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, December 12, 2005 - 10:37 am: |
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Jack:
Do you have the heated throttle cable? I have one on my MaxII (outfitted by Brandon Price), and it works in subzero temperatures. Simply turn the key on, hit the button to activate the throttle cable heating element, and 5 minutes later the throttle is thawed and you are in business.
I have never had a problem with the choke cable freezing. |
Jack Irwin
New member
Username: Dexterkid
Post Number: 4
Registered: 04-2005
Posted From: 24.247.201.134
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, December 12, 2005 - 12:24 pm: |
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Bud, No, I do not have the heated cable or knew one existed. I will check this out and get me one. If they had one for the choke cable would be great. Thank you for the info. |
Larry Houghton (Unregistered Guest)
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 69.90.48.211
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, December 12, 2005 - 07:47 pm: |
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Jack: They don't have aheated choke cable. What I do is take and blow some Fluid Film through the cable with compressed air every fall and I have no problems or you can try some antifreeze. |
Jack Irwin
New member
Username: Dexterkid
Post Number: 5
Registered: 04-2005
Posted From: 24.247.201.134
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, December 13, 2005 - 04:58 pm: |
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Thanks all for the help on my cable freezing problem. I can close that issue.
New issues: I found that the floor is very slippery when wet. Are there mats for the Max II? Also, I ride with two of us most of the time. I would like to extend the length of the left lever. Being a big fellow I find it very difficult reaching around my body especially when the lever needs to be pulled back. Has anyone else had this problem? All help is appreciated. Thanks, Jack |
Bud Dunn
Junior Member
Username: Budtx
Post Number: 12
Registered: 11-2005
Posted From: 167.230.104.90
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, December 13, 2005 - 05:09 pm: |
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I taped the floorboard of our Max with adhesive step skids from the local home supply store. It really helps a lot with the slippery floor.
I have never through about lengthening the shift lever, although I imagine that it would be a relatively simple welding job. Just be sure that it does not interfere with the range of the drive levers. |
philip w.cox
Intermediate Member
Username: Philipatmaxfour
Post Number: 69
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 216.208.194.128
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, December 13, 2005 - 06:37 pm: |
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Hi Jack--On this web site go to home page,click "HOW TO".... second item is "left stick modification". That machine is a MAX IV but you will at least find it interesting. If you do something with your sticks please let us know how it works out. Happy riding. W. Philip |
Jack Irwin
New member
Username: Dexterkid
Post Number: 6
Registered: 04-2005
Posted From: 24.247.201.134
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, December 14, 2005 - 06:44 am: |
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W. Philip, I liked the modification shown in "HOW TO--left stick modification". However, that looks like more than I am capable of fabricating in my garage. I'm thinking of using u-bolts to attach an extension to the front of the existing lever. The length would be as long as possible without interfering with the travel.
Bud Dunn, thanks for your tip on using "step anti-skid strips". Sounds good.
Thanks guys, Jack |
Troy
New member
Username: Dynamite1323
Post Number: 2
Registered: 01-2006
Posted From: 24.181.120.180
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, January 26, 2006 - 12:43 am: |
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i just bought a 70's model max2 has been totally redone brand new engine redone trans and others, my main concern is if u bend over and look from the back to the front both back wheels seem to be tilted from top to bottom is this normal? and this 16h briggs is pull start with no altinator just a lawnmower battery to run lights will this last or any better ideas on how much to make it electric start and to modify battery situation would like to add some spotlights on roll bar but afraid battery wont handle it. someone please help me out. |
Jerry R. Nuss, Max Dealer in Illinois
Senior Member
Username: Jerrynuss
Post Number: 242
Registered: 02-2005
Posted From: 71.244.167.27
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, January 26, 2006 - 11:18 am: |
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Hello Troy, Addressing the tilt how bad does it look and are the axles in line with the other axles? You could shine a lazer pointer from the top of the front axle to the back and see where the beam lands. The machine is carrying the weight in the back with the engine and some of the transmission weight and with low pressure in the tires the tires may just look like they are tilted in from the to to bottom.
You can jack it up and give everything a good shaking, try and move the tires up and down, back and forth and in and out, and rotate the tires and check for wobble indicating a bent axle. I would not suspect a bad axle from your description. If there is no real movement you are ok. The body tub is not perfectly vertical so it will also contribute to the illusion of the tires not setting straight. If your Briggs doesn't have an alternator or charging system built into it or electric start I would just use it that way unless you realy need an electric start and charging. I think an engine swap would be the better way to go instead of trying to retro fit and engine. A visit to a local Briggs and Stratton lawn mower shop may provide some better idea. Is the battery in it now just hooked up to the lights? Or does it have a ground and power cable? Are there any cables from the engine at all besides just one to turn on the ignition on and off switch? |
Troy
New member
Username: Dynamite1323
Post Number: 4
Registered: 01-2006
Posted From: 24.181.120.180
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, January 26, 2006 - 08:33 pm: |
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jerry thanx for your suggestions, i rode it down the road today and both back tire wiggle a little right one more then the other. battery has only wires goin to lights . but today i ran into another problem, was riding pretty fast and cut it hard one way you know ( is this okay to do) , and after doing this for awhile i heard a poping noise, the chain on the left back right up under the freakin egine had came off, i put it back on and it was real loose but i noticed the rest of them have guide they are running on,the guide had slipted all the way down to the bottom of rail, i pulled it back up and seemed to be fine but turns out the guide is real loose and keeps slipping back down every time i ride, have no clue how to tighten it, i wish it was on any other chain to cause its hell gettin to it, have any advise on this. |
Allen Klark
New member
Username: Hogman1460
Post Number: 1
Registered: 11-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, November 12, 2007 - 07:31 pm: |
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Help, moved from Buffalo NY area to Texas 17 yrs ago and just bought my first used Max IV. I have a 1992 and have taken alot of it apart to fix a broken chain. I have replaced the chain serviced the engine reupholstered the seats painted the frame and greased all that needs greasing. NOW HOW DO YOU PUT THE BELT BACK ON? I had to cut the old one off to pull the engine. You guys are great, I've been reading alot of the tech tips and am just waiting for my manual to arrive to see if I've missed anything. |
Mike Maroni
Advanced Member
Username: Micmac
Post Number: 144
Registered: 07-2005
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, November 12, 2007 - 08:25 pm: |
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Allen,
You should be able to walk the belt on. First put it on the top drive clutch on the engine and the wedge the front side onto the driven (bottom) clutch. Push down on the front while pulling up on the rear side of the belt. I've used a broom handle to help leverage it on but it should go. it's not easy but it will go! |
Bud
Advanced Member
Username: Budtx
Post Number: 125
Registered: 11-2005
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, November 13, 2007 - 11:28 am: |
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If you can't walk it on like Mike says, you can loosen the engine mounts. |
Sean Ridlon
Member
Username: Wasillabilly
Post Number: 23
Registered: 09-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, November 14, 2007 - 11:06 am: |
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Or check out my DIY belt replacement photos in the gallery. Requires you to pull one bolt. |
Allen Klark
New member
Username: Hogman1460
Post Number: 2
Registered: 11-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, November 19, 2007 - 08:49 pm: |
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Got the belt on with a great deal of elbow grease now I get to do some research to find out why my chains are making so much noise and the steering is out of whack. Thanks for all of your help. allen |
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