| Author |
Message |
    
ghostdog
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:29 pm: | 
|
I bought a second hand amphicat 6 wheeler. I seem to have trouble with the carburettor. Can anyone give me more information on tuning the amphicat carburettor.It seems to be getting to much fuel? It doesn't want to rev up and get power. |
david berger (Davidrrrd)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:29 pm: |
|
MY FRIEND HAD TROUBLE THAT SOUNDED LIKE THAT WITH HERS AND AS STUPID AS IT MIGHT SOUND HERS WAS NOT GETING FULE DUE TO RESTRICTION IN THE OUTLET ON HER TANK, RUST OR SOMTHING, SHE NEEDED A NEW OUTLET VALV WITH A BUILT IN SCREEN,
EVENTUALY WE DRILED A HOLE IN THE SIDE OF THE TANK AND ADDED A FULE SYPEN TYPE PICKUP WITH A WEIGHT ON IT SO IT FOLLOWED THE FULE WHEN ON ANGLES.
ALSO SHE HAD A BUILD UP OF CRAP IN HER EXAST SPARK ARESTOR DUE TOO TOO MUCH OIL IN HER FULE MIX,
HOW MUCH OIL ARE YOU USING AND WHAT TYPE?
ALSO TILITSON CARBS SEAM TOO NEED A REBUILD EVERY SEASON, I'D GET A KIT JUST TO BE ON THE SAFE SIDE. |
roadwolf
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:29 pm: |
|
ghostdog, try 1&1/2 out on the low speed and 1/2 to 3/4 out on the high.
maybe your carb can benifit from a rebuild and a fresh set of gaskets, contact e.c birt at tillotson usa.
he is very knowledgeable and takes time to talk to every inquiry. |
ghostdog
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:29 pm: |
|
thanks all you guys for replying so soon. i tried setting the carb as you suggested but there is still a lot of fuel just running through the carb even spilling out through the air filter. so i am assuming there is something else wrong . i opened the carburettor and looked at the diaphram and the needle and seat. as i know the needle and seat of cars the fuel comes from the top. i have a tillotson carb. can anyone tell me whether the incoming fuel line must go in on the top of the carb and the outgoing fuel from the bottom? because my incoming fuel line has been connected to the bottom of the carb and i do not know if it is correct. the fuel just keeps running right through the carb and lots of it. also does anyone have some more information or even a sketch of these type of carbs or even some information on the amphicat itself they would like to send me? |
MarkfuntothemaxHarding (Promoza)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:29 pm: |
|
hello i hope this helps with adj. of this type of carb
Adjusting Low-Speed Needle
1. Shut off the engine.
2. Carefully turn the low-speed needle clockwise until lightly seated. Do not force.
3. Back needle out I turn (Walbro) or 1-3/4 turns (Bendix). Back needle out 1-1/8 turns on 800 Snowmobile.
4. Start engine.
5. On Walbro carburetors, turn low-speed needle clockwise or counterclockwise until smoothest running and highest rpm is obtained.
NOTE: On machines equipped with Walbro carburetors, keep the low-speed needle adjusted as lean (clockwise) as possible, while still providing smooth idling and unfaltering acceleration. This will reduce spark plug fouling.
6. On Bendix carburetors, turn low-speed needle clockwise slowly until engine falters (looses rpm). Then back needle out 1/4 turn. Readjust idle stop screw as necessary.
Adjusting Idle Stop Screw
The idle stop screw is adjusted only when a change in idle speed is required. Set the idle speed at 2200 to 2600 rpm. Generally, if the idle stop screw is adjusted, the low-speed needle will have to be readjusted.
Adjusting High-Speed Needle
1. Shut off the engine.
2. Carefully turn the high-speed needle clockwise until lightly seated. Do not force.
3. Back needle out (counterclockwise) 3/4 turn (Walbro) and 1-1/2 turns (Bendix). Back needle out 1-1/8 turns on 800 Snowmobile.
4. Start engine and take snowmobile for a highspeed trial run in a large, level area.
5. Stop, turn high-speed needle 1/8 turn or less clockwise, and make another trial run.
6. Continue this procedure, 1/8 turn or less at a time, clockwise or counterclockwise, until optimum performance is obtained.
7. Turn needle 1/8 turn counterclockwise for final adjustment.
IMPORTANT: Too lean (clockwise) a high speed needle setting can seriously damage your engine. On the 800 Snowmobile DO NOT turn the high-speed needle (clockwise) LESS than I full turn open.
NOTE: High altitude (distance above sea level) requires a leaner carburetor setting. Use the following rule for leanest possible high-speed needle setting.
Above 5000 feet altitude (1524 meters) = 5/8 turn open (300), 1-turn open (400, 600 and 800)
If, after setting high-speed needle correctly, engine falters or hesitates on acceleration, it may be necessary to lean or enrichen low-speed needle slightly to correct this condition.
IMPORTANT: Never set the high-speed needle with the track off the ground and the engine in a "no-load" situation. Engine must be under load to prevent engine damage from overspeeding and to obtain proper carburetor adjustment. Overspeeding the engine may damage or destroy cooling fan belt. |
G. Hargis (Bigwolf)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:29 pm: |
|
Hey has any one heard about a carburator with a variable turn knob to quickly change the jetting set up for variuos altitudes?
I have been discussing this subject with a local guy, and he tells me that Onan has this feature available on one or more of their generators products. This is the first time I have heard about this feature being available on a carburator.
He told me he has this feature on his Onan portable gas generator that is currently installed in his brand new travel trailer camper.
What a fantastic idea and feature to have available! He wants to know if he can get this same feature installed on a new ATV carburator, to quickly change the jetting set up for the various altitudes that he wants to ride at.
This would be a great feature to have for those that do ride in the mountain ranges, and need to ride through and transition through different altitudes on any given day. |
david berger (Davidrrrd)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:29 pm: |
|
big wolf,
i think i can remember a convertation with dave sanders in louiseana (mudbug on discussion board)
about such a carb,
it was an expencive harly carberator,
but it's posably something we can adapt to aatv's |
Motown's (Bigwolf)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:29 pm: |
|
I would be really nice to be able to adapt one of those variable orifice jet devices on my 2 barrel Makuni carb for the Kawasaki engine. I was looking in the Kawasaki maunal for what is required to re-jet that Makuni carb for different altitudes. You must phsically remove the carb and then you can get at the bottom cover attachment screws where the jet orifices are located at. I do not think this carb can be easily re-fitted with an adjustable jet device, unless Makuni has some thing avaiable that they manufacture and sell.
That is going to be a major pain in the back side when out in the field on a mountain side some where, and passing through different altitudes during the day or during the week.
Per the Kaw manual, there are three different jet orifice sizes for the following altitudes;
0' to 3000', or 3000' to 6000', or 6000' and above. |
david berger (Davidrrrd)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:29 pm: |
|
funny you should mention micuni carbs and how to chaing jets, one of my micuni carbs has real rubber o-ring like gasket on lower fuel bole half and can be removed time after time without leakage, this bowl also has a large nut on the bottom that a jet can be replaced threw without removeing the bowl, i have only removed this nut on ocation to clear the bowl of water when i have found i had water in my gas,
jet chainges would make my life easyer id bet however carbinateing is a black art to me, |
MarkfuntothemaxHarding (Promoza)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:29 pm: |
|
Look up Dial-a-jet a lot of snowmobiles use them but they are adaptable to most carbs |
Kevin Percy
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:29 pm: |
|
Check this out :
"AltiMizer II CARBURETORS
The AltiMizer II carburetor, a high-performance, altitude-compensating carburetor which better atomizes the fuel for more complete combustion, than do other types of carburetors. The AltiMizer II carburetor is available in many sizes and is less vulnerable to icing than are other carburetors due to its superior design. Eliminate seasonal jet changes by installing our AltiMizer II carburetors on your Rotax, Hirth or other 2-stroke engine."
I think some of the sled manufacturers have altitude compensation carbs available for their machines too. If you were to do a search using "altitude compensating carburetor" I suspect there are more out there than the ones I found. |
Motown's (Bigwolf)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:29 pm: |
|
Thanks for steering me in the right direction about the altitude compensating carbs! I will do some further research on the subject! |
Motown's (Bigwolf)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:29 pm: |
|
I checked out the Dial-A-Jet product and it looks like that device will do the job that I need it for. I plan to order the package to install and try out on my Max IV, with the Kawasaki FD750D engine, and Makuni two barrel carburator. I talked to the manufacturer of the Dial-A-Jet products, and they selected the appropriate kit to install on my existing carburator. It looks very simple and straight forward to install.
They also help me select a new jet orifice to lean out my carb a couple of sizes smaller, for the kit installation. Evidentally it is neccessary to change the existing main jet orifice and lean it out more for the Dial-A-Jet to have a better range of adjustment and to work properly. They say that if your current engine and carburator is already set up to run rich at low altitudes, then the Dial-A-Jet would only make it run richer. So the logic is you size down the main jets to run lean, and the Dial-A-Jet will take care of the full spectrum of adjustment for the richer settings.
They aslo told me that I should expect to see the full range of the throttle response to be significantly smoothed out and be much more responsive, and the power through out the full range of throttle will also increase by "X" percentage. So in other words the slight hesitation that I currently experience when I punch the throttle from a stand still will get smoothed out and be much more responsive, and I should also see some percentage of increased horsepower output.
They tell me the new adjustable carburator jet set up should allow me to a have full range of adjustment from 0' through 12,000' altitude, and also the ability to re-adjust to compensate for temperature and humidity changes as well.
When ever I receive the new kit and get it installed and do some try out with it, I will try to provide an update on how it performs. |
Motown's (Bigwolf)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:29 pm: |
|
Well I finally ordered the Dial-A-Jet kit for my Kawasaki FD750D liquid cooled engine today. The kit that I ordered will come with two dial adjust spray nozzles, one for each intake port on the two barrel Makuni carb. I also ordered two air flow boxes from them, so that I can fine tune the air intake, and a pair of snorkel filter kits to keep the Dial-A-Jet air intake nozzles clean.
The total bill came to about $178.00 out the door cost, and it includes a very detailed theory and installation manual, and technical support from the factory, if I have any problems.
I also ordered the two remaining available sets of main jet orifices from Kawasaki, so I can change the main jets and lean them out. The factory told me to install the smallest main jet orifices to lean it all the way down, and the Dial-A-Jet will provide me with enough adjustment settings to handle just about any altitude. They also said that I will not need to alter the current fuel flow adjustments or the idle settings on the carburator at all.
This will be a very interesting and very usefull addition to my engine. They are telling me to expect to see an additonal 3% to 5% increase in horse power, and that I should no longer experience the initial hestitation when I punch the throttle from a stand still.
I really do not need any more horse power from the 27 HP Kawasaki engine, but hey if its a free side affect type advantage, why not!
I will post another update after I have installed and done some try out with it. |
David Keeso (Argomag)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:29 pm: |
|
On my ARGO MAGNUM 8x8, it is idling too fast so the dealer told me to turn the idle speed down, something on the carb where the throttle cable goes into the engine (sorry-don't know the exact names of parts) but when I looked at it, their is only a couple screws, and a little arm thing where the throttle cable attaches to and then this arm is attached to something else on the engine. What should i be looking for to turn the idle speed down slightly, very slightly. I only need it down a bit because its getting very hard to shift in and out of gear from anything but neutral, neutral to low gear is sometimes hard because the notch is gone where you know its in gear the main problem is that when it goes into gear, it lurches forwards or back (depending on gear) and to get it from High gear to any other gear requires almost force to get it out of gear and you have to hold both brakes hard to make it any easier- HELP PLEASE- I NEED THE ARGO LATER TONIGHT TO SHOW PROPERTY BUT CAN"T HAVE ANY BREAKDOWNS AS ONE PERSON IS AN OLDER MAN WHO CAN"T WALK LONG DISTANCES - any and all help is appreciated- pictures are even better (the engine is an 18HP KOHLER MAGNUM) |
Greg Lawrence (Greglawrence)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:29 pm: |
|
the idle screw should be under the air cleaner on top of the carb. it should be parrallel to the ground and should interact with the throttle blade linkage. be sure to lube the linkage etc as it will stick sometimes and not close far enough allowing the idle to be too high. I can mail you a picture if you like. mail me at gnius@swbell.net. |
Greg Lawrence (Greglawrence)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:29 pm: |
|
oh btw here is the service manual for that motor on kohlers website.
http://www.kohlerengines.com/pdf/tp-2204-b.pdf
i think page 40 will show you whats up. (section 6a) |
David Keeso (Argomag)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:29 pm: |
|
Greg, Thank you very much, unfortunatly, I couldn't get back on the net after i posted on Friday so I did not see your posting until now, all went well though showing the development via ARGO, just very very hard to shift anywhere and it will lurch hard unless you hold the brakes on hard- otherwise, nothing wrong. I would really appreciate that picture if its not too much trouble for you to do, my e-mail is argo_mag@hotmail.com --Thanks very much |
Greg Lawrence (Greglawrence)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:29 pm: |
|
ok look at that pdf file and turn to section 6a. It will show you your carb and the screw locations. its accessible with the air cleaner on and a long skinny flathead screwdriver. |
Shop Talk: Tech Tips and Q&A section