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Paul Leonard (Duk)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm: | 
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I have a Max IV that I seem to not have the power that I am reading about in this web site. Since this is my first Max, and have no one around I cannot compare it to anything else. I am wondering if my driven clutch is not opening up to give me a lower torque range. Here is my question. Should the lower clutch look smooth all down in it where the belt rides, like the upper clutch on the moter? I really only see a heavy wear mark on the very outer edge of the driven clutch, with very little inner wear.
How can I tell it it is opening up correctly? |
Sidney Webb (Sidneywebb)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm: |
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In order for the drivEN member to open up, the drivING member must close a corresponding amount. In my experience with various torque converter systems, it is the driving member that is most likely to hang up. It may have dirt and/or rust in it which is keeping it from shifting in as the engine revs. I use dry moly spray lube on my go-karts and on my Scrambler. I doesn't displace, it protects against rust, and it is very slipery, so the weights can shift the driving member. It runs about $15-16 for a spray can, but a little goes a long way.
Check out http://www.gokartsupply.com/
They carry the stuff I use |
Peter Fazio (Pete_fazio)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm: |
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Leonard,
The DRIVEN clutch will provide maximum reduction (low speed torque) when closed (belt at the outer perimeter of the DRIVEN clutch). As it opens, due to the DRIVING clutch closing you will get increased output speed but w/ reduced torque output. If your DRIVEN clutch is staying at the closed position, then you should have good low speed torque but relatively little ground speed. If your DRIVEN clutch shows no signs of belt passage into the smaller diameters of the DRIVEN sheave, then indeed you have some problem w/ either the DRIVING clutch of the DRIVEN clutch. While in neutral w/ the engine running and the engine cover removed, rev the engine up and you should see the DRIVING clutch close and the DRIVEN clutch open as it changes ratios. If not, then you need to investigate your clutches.
One other thing, I have almost the same vehicle as you do (see my profile), '97 Max IV 20 hp Kohler. I had been noticing a fairly large compression of the left side engine mounts(rubber) when my clutches would pull in and change ratio. You could actually see the engine dip down on the left side as the engine was revved in gear. With CVT's (continuously variable transmissions) like we have in the Maxes, it is most important for good performance that the distance between the DRIVING and DRIVEN clutches remain constant during operation. If the distance does not remain constant (and proper for that setup) then you lose both maximum low end torque and maximum high speed operation. So, you have 2 options here, 1) install solid motor mounts (ouch..too much vibration) and 2) an engine stabilizer. I chose to install #2. I built an engine stabilizer using fine threaded rod, 4 rod ends (like little balljoints) and some bolts. Basically, the stabilizer system prevents downward movement of the engine table relative to the frame, but still allows both lateral(side to side) and longitudinal (front to back) movement, so that you eliminate the unwanted compression of the motor mounts but still allow the mounts to absorb some of the engine vibration. If anyone wants details on this project, just let me know. BTW, before "cutting metal" I created a computer simulation of the system to work out the details of the geometries. I built the simulation using the DADS (Dynamic Analysis and Design System) software and generated a working animation of the stabilizer system under dynamic loading. If anyone is a DADS modeler or user out there, I could make my simulation file available for your use and enjoyment.
good luck,
Pete Fazio |
duk
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm: |
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thank you to everyone for there help. I have it torn down, and am playing with it now. I have ordered a new belt, and will see if that helps. It looks as if my driven clutch is working ok, as my Driving clutch also. I will see how that works out.
Peter, that a neat rig you have.. I really like the winch mount and brushguard. I will take a look when I get it back together to see if my motor moves any when reved.
Thanks again to all. |
Alan Michaud (Maxuser)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm: |
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Peter,
I am very interested in the stabilizer you described. Have a 98 Max IV and use it to groom snowmobile trails. It started with an 18hp Briggs and this summer I swapped the 20hp Kohler from our 90 Max IV into the tracked 98. I do have better torque as expected and can pull more snow. But, on the first grooming session of the season I had to disconect drag and high-tail it home after getting stuck on a very steep hill (traction problem). Anyway, Max without drag was run up the road and I don't think I was able to get more than 10 mph out of the demon. Bummer.
I did see the flex you speak of when the rig was up on stands after the motor swap. I was running it up to verify everything worked. The table really dips down a LOT!
Could you send details of the stabilizer you fabricated? And fast? The snow grooming season is upon us and there is never enough time.
Thanks in advance, Al Michaud.
If you want some pics of the Max and drag we use take a peek at the homepage I created for the club.
http://www.geocities.com/norrsprts/
Go to the 'Club News' section. Have two pics there. Also have a load of pics showing the perimeter frame I built for a rugged hitch and the cleating of the tracks, etc etc etc.
Next big project on the unit will be the single seat mod I saw here and a HARD TOP! The canvas only lasts so long.
I have one beef. There is not enough clearance between tracks and body to put in a deeper cleat on the tracks (track profile is useless by the way, too shallow, like driving with slicks in the snow). The cleats I fitted to track are about 5/8" depth and even these contact body during some rotations and track slapping. Could really put the use of the new power and torque to the snow if the cleats were 1 inch or more. Oh well. Maybe you could design a system to drop the front of the track? An offsetting idler wheel to use in first and middle wheel mounts? Then the driving power coud rely on the rear wheels like the Trak-Max theory and I could install deeper cleats. Just a pipe dream.
Keep bouncin' !! :-)) |
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