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- (Fyafighter)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:24 pm: | 
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I was having a similar problem, it ended up being trash in the fuel pump and car, had to clean the carb and replace the fuel pump, cost about 50 bucks |
Pete
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:24 pm: |
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I have a Bigfoot and it starves for fuel at about 60%to 70% grade ,just like float trouble or is this normal. I hate to tear the carb down for nothing, its been like this since new no other trouble runs fine |
mike martindale (Wetsu)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:24 pm: |
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pete,this is normal for bigfoot's,or is that bigfeet? any way the problem is not enough fuel line going from the fuel pump to the carb.i didn't find this out until i sold mine.but,you will need to move the pump too,and add about a foot of fuel line.if i remember right,you put the fuel pump up on the front of the machine,if you have a winch mount you could put it there.then add however much fuel line you need to reach the carb.jon hoath can tell exactly how to do it.
now if you don't want to go through that you can add a 2psi electric fuel pump,and this will also help. |
Todd Schumaker (Crazy400ex)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:24 pm: |
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I have a MAX II 16 HP brigs and it stalls out on steep hills I was wondering if anybody else has had this problem? Is it normal? and can I fix it? I noticed that somebody with a 14 HP said their machine does'nt ever stall. |
RickMoMoBigfoot
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:24 pm: |
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Last ride i was on at Rockport last month,My bigfoot did the stall thing on this steep grade.The problem was we went down this hill and what looked like a trail ended. This place is new and some of the trails aren't finshed.I put a low presure fuel pump on it .Haven't been able to test it fully yet,but from others i talked to i think i fix that problem. A friend of mine said he's going to make a mercury switch for it and we'll see how that works.Rick |
mike martindale (Wetsu)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:24 pm: |
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todd, isn't your fuel tank on the front of the of your max??????? if you are are stalling out going up hill i would say you you need a new filter,or check your floats in your carb. |
Hustler
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:24 pm: |
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Todd,
You might want to check your tank to see if any dirt is in it. You also might want to think about changing your filter and maybe gas line. How old is the Max? You float might be off in your carb, but most likely it is dirt in your carb. Hope this helps you out a little. |
randy
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:24 pm: |
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have 82 argo gets hot loses power runs with choke on any one know whats going on |
John Martin
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:24 pm: |
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I have had to run with my choke on and that usually means that the carb. is plugged up. I took mine apart and cleaned and inspected all the passages and put it back together and it ran find. I think it is from dirt and other debris fouling normal air and fuel flows inside the carb. Goodluck |
LAWPRESSMAN
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:24 pm: |
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Dirt in the carb main jet will cause the motor to only run with the choke pulled out. Clean the carb out and you may want to add a new fuel filter. Never install an electric fuel pump on a Max or Argo. It will catch fire for sure. The carbs are not set up for any extra fuel pressure. |
Larry Houghton
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:24 pm: |
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Todd. Check your fuel level. If the level is down near quarter full you can have the level roll back past the the fuel outlet and it will draw in air and stall. Ihad this happen on my max II with an 18h.p. and that was the problem. |
Todd Schumaker (Crazy400ex)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:24 pm: |
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My tank is clean and I just replaced the fuel filter and cleaned out the carb. It also dyes out when doing a clockwise doughnut, but doesnt do it with a counter-clockwise doughnut. |
Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max dealer (Fred4dot)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:24 pm: |
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Todd, have you checked to make sure you are not pinching the fuel line between the seat and the body when you close up your machine? I bought a max II real cheap once cause it wouldn't run and that is what the trouble was. |
Joe Motson
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:24 pm: |
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Stalling on hills and when doing a doughnut is usually a float problem. Not enough fuel in the bowl so when you go on a steep hill or do a doughnut the fuel will go to one side of the bowl and leave the main jet starving for fuel. A doughnut the other way is forcing the fuel to the jet side of the bowl.....no fuel problem. raise the float a bit and try it. |
Ron Reus
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:24 pm: |
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My Bigfoot runs just fine, Then in the middle of running good, it sputters and I have to open the choke in and out and it backfires a lot.
Thanks.
Ron Reus |
Vince Keiper (Creepr91)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:24 pm: |
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I just purchased a Max II with a B&S 14hp vangaurd in it. Every now and then it would stall on steep inclines or when spining in circles. It was caused by dirt in the carb. The first time I took off the carb and intake too clean. Well I installed an in line fuel filter and then 2 days later same problem, there must have been some crap in the line after the filter. Anyway there is a much easier way of cleaning out the carb.
1.Take the top off the carb while it is still mounted on the engine.
2. Remove the float and needle jet assy
3. Remove bowl drain bolt. (by the main jet)
4. Blow out bowl with air
5. There are 2 holes in the top of carb, one I believe is your air adj, blow air through these holes. Then hold your finger over one of them, it will force air out through the main jet clearing out any debris.
6. re-assemble, make sure to check your float setting
Works like a charm for me |
Mike
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:24 pm: |
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I'm curious about something, when your 14hp is at idle, is the idle steady or does it lope a little bit up and down with the rpm? |
Anonymous
Posted From: 209.247.222.85
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, January 22, 2006 - 11:49 am: |
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bought an 85 argo conquest 8 wheeler 20 hp kawasaki it has a bad stumble off idle tothe point where it stalls if you open the throtle very fast any one know the problem or the fix |
Jerry R. Nuss, Max Dealer in Illinois
Senior Member
Username: Jerrynuss
Post Number: 222
Registered: 02-2005
Posted From: 71.244.210.114
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, January 22, 2006 - 05:58 pm: |
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It could be a lot of things, old gas, dirty filter, float level not set right dirty carb with crud in the primary and accelerator circuit. |
rick with the argo (Unregistered Guest)
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 209.247.222.96
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, January 22, 2006 - 06:12 pm: |
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jerry have checked all of the things you mentioned still no luck other than the off idle bad stumble it runs great were the 20 hp kawasakis a problem in this respect is there a jet that needs to be opened up |
Jerry R. Nuss, Max Dealer in Illinois
Senior Member
Username: Jerrynuss
Post Number: 224
Registered: 02-2005
Posted From: 71.244.218.177
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, January 22, 2006 - 08:27 pm: |
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It should not have been a problem. It it idles well and runs well at full power then it is just the initial tip in. I'd consider a jet is clogged or if there is a plunger it could be cracked and not sealing. What carb make and model is on the motor? |
Dave Keeso
Intermediate Member
Username: Argomag
Post Number: 63
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 70.26.24.174
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, January 23, 2006 - 01:19 am: |
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The ARGO conquest didn't come out until 95 i think. Double check your machine. |
Rick (Unregistered Guest)
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 66.103.186.207
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, January 23, 2006 - 01:44 pm: |
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jerry there are no plungers all passages are open not clogged carb was clean when I removed it Carb is a K- T what ever that is I am not familiar with it any other ideas? Your help is appreciated motor is 20 hp kawasaki dated 1985
Rick |
(Unregistered Guest)
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 66.103.186.207
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, January 23, 2006 - 01:52 pm: |
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jerry & dave I am sorry my conquest is a 1995 not 1985 as I posted Brain fade I suppose
Thanks for you help. If also mention that anyone else has had an experience with the 1995 series Kawasaki stumbeling and stalling when throttle is opened from an idle position please post.
I might also state that is definatly a lean condition because it is not as bad if you have the choke half on thanks Rick |
Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max dealer
Advanced Member
Username: Fred4dot
Post Number: 129
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 216.166.168.53
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, January 23, 2006 - 03:12 pm: |
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Rick, I don't know much about engines, absolutely nothing about Kawasaki, but you have a jet gummed up. You can try a good fuel conditioner (like Conklin Product's 4-power) http://www.conklin.com/catalog/prod_info.asp?prfid=1121&m=g2566:825_
and hope it goes away (one ounce of 4-Power mixed with a quart of gasoline run through the machine will usually get everything working well) or figure out where your jets are and take it out and clean it.
It has been my experience that usually when your engine runs better with the choke out that you have a bad fuel, dirty fuel line problem. especially if a machine has been sitting for a while. |
(Unregistered Guest)
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 70.50.231.94
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, January 23, 2006 - 04:29 pm: |
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So. do you suggest a premium gasoline for every Argo model? |
Jerry R. Nuss, Max Dealer in Illinois
Senior Member
Username: Jerrynuss
Post Number: 226
Registered: 02-2005
Posted From: 71.244.182.51
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, January 23, 2006 - 04:36 pm: |
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i don't see any reason to run premium gas. If you are not getting detonation then you don't need it. So you have checked all the fuel line and put on a new filter. Did you check the flow of fuel up to the carb by just letting it freeflow into a container. If you did this and you are sure you are getting a good flow does it have a fuel pump? If it is flowing through the pump fine and keeping the float bowl full check the carb to manifold gasket and the manifold to the head gaskets. Are there any other ports on the lower side of the carb? |
Bob Shelver
Junior Member
Username: Curly
Post Number: 10
Registered: 01-2006
Posted From: 209.193.83.27
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, January 24, 2006 - 10:26 am: |
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Here is the thing about the Briggs engine with standard carburetor and fuel pump. Aside from the normal dirt in the main jet and fuel filter, bad air filter (this is a big deal, air filters are cheap)Take the foam pre-filter off it is designed for very dirty industrial environments and restricts air flow when you are running the engines in this ATV application. The Briggs fuel pump is not designed to lift fuel very high. In a ARGO or Max the pump with the machine setting level is already lifting 12 to 18 inches, now put your machine in a steep clime or steep decline and the fuel pump has to work over time. Best bet put a low-pressure electric fuel pump on no more starving for fuel and no more vapor lock. The Bigfoot had problems with this as well as the Response. Also if you don't use fuel stabilizer all the time you are asking for trouble and expensive repairs |
Jack Ouellette
New member
Username: Beungood
Post Number: 5
Registered: 02-2005
Posted From: 205.188.116.8
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, January 24, 2006 - 10:39 am: |
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Doesn't the fuel pumps on Argos/max's cause them to catch fire? What type of Fuel pump?
JAck |
Jerry R. Nuss, Max Dealer in Illinois
Senior Member
Username: Jerrynuss
Post Number: 228
Registered: 02-2005
Posted From: 71.244.182.51
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, January 24, 2006 - 06:11 pm: |
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It depends on how the pump is wired. Some machines come with an electric fuel pump from the factory. If a person adds a pump they should use a low pressure pump like a facet with a max pressure of 3 or 4 psi then attach a fuel pressure regulator and set it at 1.0 to 1.5 psi. Wire it up so it turns off if the engine is not running a kill switch can also be installed for the engine and fuel pump.
The machine Rick is trying to diagnose has a Kawasaki motor in it. It may come from the factory with an electric fuel pump. This is just an example of a kawasaki fuel fump on a 950T.
 |
Bob Shelver
Junior Member
Username: Curly
Post Number: 11
Registered: 01-2006
Posted From: 209.193.83.27
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, January 24, 2006 - 07:36 pm: |
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Back to the Kawasaki if the fuel tube has any restrictions you will run out of gas at full throttle in a short time. If your engine stalls from first acceleration it is in your carburetor either your main jet is partially plugged or you have gum in the pilot jet. We have had a micro spec in between the needle and seat that caused unbelievable problems. Varnish will settle in the bottom of the tank which is where the fuel pickup tube is. Also if the fuel varnishes up in the fuel filter it goes straight to the carburetor. There is not much to the fuel system it is either in the tank, between the tank, or in the carb. If you have a vacuum gauge you can test the fuel pump pressure some where 1.5 to 3 psi, the thing is it can be starving for fuel and get enough fuel to build pressure. If your jet has gunk in it, you can’t clean it without taking it out. Pull the top off the carb, take the shut off solenoid out, and the main jet is behind it. The shut off solenoid can cause you some grief if it gets a bit of gunk on it. If the shutoff needle will not come all the way out of the jet when you turn on the key, you will starve for fuel just like if the jet was plugged. The only way that thing will work properly is with very clean fuel. I don’t condone it but I know of some people taking the needle out, no more trouble. |
Jerry R. Nuss, Max Dealer in Illinois
Senior Member
Username: Jerrynuss
Post Number: 231
Registered: 02-2005
Posted From: 71.244.182.51
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, January 24, 2006 - 09:49 pm: |
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I think Bob is right on with his assessment. One other thing I forgot to mention that would cause the fuel starvation is the vent on the tank is clogged. Sometimes the gas cap vent gets dirty and doesn't vent properly. Like just about everyone else I think it is varnish or dirt. It is a common problem with all machines and engines. They sit for a while and don't get run and the gas goes bad and turn to varnish. Like Fred and Bob say get it clean and get some fuel stabilizer in it. I use it everythime I put gas in the machine. After tearing a carb down about every other day it gets real old quickly. Normally the machine wil run good till some rough terrain gets the tank good and stirred up and then varnish and other foreign material get sucked up and clog a jet.
To review the problem, the machine will idle just fine, and it has power at top end and under load, but has a stumble when cracking the accelerator. It desn't have the stumble as bad when the choke is on a little. Is this correct?
We are going to get this figured out. I bet it is a very simple little problem. Bobs idea about the solenoid sound like a good place to check, is there a loose wire and do you get power to the solenoid? Do you have a picture of your carb set up with the air filter housing off? |
rick (Unregistered Guest)
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 209.247.222.83
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, January 24, 2006 - 10:41 pm: |
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Jerry
I have done all of the things you suggested fuel selonid is good power to it and it opens fine.Had the carb apart 4 times in the last 3 days . I is a KT brand carb all passages hane been cleaned with copper wire and cleaned with carb cleaner. As I said fuel tank clean fresh gas clean filter good fuel pressure runs great a any speed but has this bad stumble off idle to the point it will die if you do not open the gas slowly. carb has a main jet pilot jet and air screw. adjusting the air screw will richen or lean it at idle but does not affect the transition to the main circut.There are 3 verry small holes in the venturi area 2 above the throttle blade and one below it the one below the blade is the one that is affected by the air screw. I am wondering if the to holes above the blade are supposed to supply fuel during the transition period until there is enough pressure drop in the venturi to start fuel flowing from the main booster.
What do you think? |
Jerry R. Nuss, Max Dealer in Illinois
Senior Member
Username: Jerrynuss
Post Number: 232
Registered: 02-2005
Posted From: 71.244.182.51
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, January 25, 2006 - 02:31 am: |
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Ok, It sounds like you know your way around the carb pretty well. Did you completely remove the idle air fuel screw? Or did it have a plastic cap and it would only let you turn it about a 1/4 to half a turn?
Does it still have the problem with the belt removed from the drive pulley? I'm trying to look at other things since you seem to have the carb cleaned well like maybe the drive clutch is locking up too quickly or may not be moving freely. Sort of like dumping the clutch on a car before the engine has enough rpm. |
Eddie Beddingfield (Unregistered Guest)
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 205.188.116.8
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, January 25, 2006 - 05:41 am: |
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Some carbs just dont react to a good cleaning. Honda carbs are notorious for this.Unless you replace the carb there isnt much you can do.The only other thing I have done is,Remove all plastic parts ,Place carb in a pan of water supported by a coffee cup and actually boil the carb on a stove. There are many places you cant get a wire in these carbs Eddie |
Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max dealer
Advanced Member
Username: Fred4dot
Post Number: 131
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 216.166.168.53
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, January 25, 2006 - 09:49 am: |
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Buy some 4-Power (click link above), you won't be sorry and it will fix your problem. You might not ever have to rebuild another carb. |
Bob Shelver
Junior Member
Username: Curly
Post Number: 12
Registered: 01-2006
Posted From: 209.193.102.42
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, January 25, 2006 - 10:44 am: |
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I believe that you have a lean mixture on your low end. This could be in your pilot system. In this carb the pilot system supplies fuel through the initial acceleration into the main system. If this is too lean you are going to get a stall. You are probable sh__ full of taking the carb apart but lean is lean and something is plugged. I would be glad to fax you a copy of the service manual shows the flow and the break down. If you can turn the air mix screw on the back of the carb clear in or out with little or no response there is the problem. With the engine running at 1100 RPM you turn the screw in the engine will die. If someone has turned the idle screw up to compensate for a bad pilot system then there will be little effect. Give me a place I can fax you the book stuff and go from there, and it may be to a service guy. Sometimes a well spent $100. can save days of grief. |
Rick (Unregistered Guest)
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 66.103.186.207
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, January 25, 2006 - 11:47 am: |
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Bob
Thanks for the input, a copy of the service manual for the carb would be much appreciated. the carb is a KT brand I belive at least that is the only marking on it .I have tried Kawasakis web site and tried to call Kawa powe but all you get is an answer machine or a request for a dealer number ID. I can"t belive no one else has had this problem. I can blow thru all of the passages and I belive that it is definately a lean problem during transition from the idle circut to the main system. How else can it run so good at all other throttle positions.I am suspecting that some or one of the bleed passages in the venturi area needs to be opened up but I an unsure which one . I have been unable to locate any information on this brand of carb or anyone who is famialiar with it .
thanks to all who have tried to help I will keep trying all suggestions
Rick
Bob to fax the manual 320-693-7842 it is also an answer machine so as soon as it answers you can send the document.. Thanks |
Paul Fritz
New member
Username: Iceman
Post Number: 1
Registered: 03-2006
Posted From: 68.250.242.82
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, March 11, 2006 - 08:51 pm: |
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I have a 2003 maxII with a 23hp kohler engine. It seems to loose all power on small inclines, and when I pull back on the right stick from a dead stop it doesn't want to move at all. Just wondering if anyone has had this problem. I plan at starting at a fuel problem but why from a dead stop when I pull on the right stick it won't move. If I push and pull the right stick it jerks enough to turn a little but when im rolling it turns great. Any help would be much appreciated. Thank Paul |
david berger
Senior Member
Username: Davidrrrd
Post Number: 301
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 172.156.4.199
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, March 12, 2006 - 09:09 am: |
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im not shure we have enoph info to form a picture here, are you saying at a dead stop on a hill?
if so you need both latereals back on the brakes, right?
maybe you can play at nutral with one or both if your disc braks will hold you there,
next becaus your not in forward position with ether laterals but the trany is in say forward gear you should be able to get the input shaft rolling some and work at reving it and pushing the laterals fwd, if the cluch (belt drive stals again just run the engine a lil higher befor popin the laterals forward, the tork converter will convert your rpms into the starting tork you need but you need the input shaft moveing,
"now a word of warning!"
it is likely a bad thing to rev an engine whilst it is not under a load, so take it easy, do not go to extreems or you might throw a rod r sumptin!
while id say it is your cluches and or discribe them as tork converters that are doing the work of getting you started in this situation, i do beleave fred would sugest it is an example of slipng the bands insted, ether way you can get it going with practice, as long as your engins running ok,
if your powerloss is to do with fule starvation or something this example dosent hold,
it was only a guess as to what you were asking. |
Paul Fritz
New member
Username: Iceman
Post Number: 2
Registered: 03-2006
Posted From: 68.250.242.82
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, March 12, 2006 - 01:54 pm: |
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Dave
Thanks for the input. Sorry I didn't make myself clear on that, when I am climbing a gradual incline(not very steep at all) it bogs real bad and seems to want to almost stop. Also from a dead stop on a small incline it has a very hard time getting getting to move and the tires don't even spin. Also from a dead stop on flat ground I pull the left stick and I spin great pull the right and it doesn't want to move at all. I just did it this morning in the garage and it seemed to do somewhat ok. Maybe the problem worsens as it gets hot. any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Paul |
david berger
Senior Member
Username: Davidrrrd
Post Number: 303
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 172.138.252.198
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, March 12, 2006 - 05:32 pm: |
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the quickest way to locate the problem might be to take it to the nearest dealer, they can figure out whats wrong faster cause they can see,hear n test it themselves,
they could narrow it down quickly as to wether it is an engine or trany problem, an adgustment or wether surgery is nesesary, ect..ect..
just tell em up frount wether after they diagnose it you would try to fix it yourself or wether you will need an estemate.
im thinking it may be a trany adgustment, cluch or driven pully problem,or as serious as a trans tear down to check for defective parts,ect.ect.
but they can check a ton more stuff "hands on" than we could type threw the internet in a year. |
Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max dealer
Advanced Member
Username: Fred4dot
Post Number: 148
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 216.166.168.53
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, March 13, 2006 - 12:41 pm: |
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Paul, david is probably right and the quickest way to get an answer is to contact a dealer or a small engine specialist.
Off the top of my head there are a few things you can check. (1) spark plugs to make sure it is not only running on one cylinder (check your oil to make sure it is not overfull from gas going directly into the crankcase). (2) is your fuel line being pinched between the seat and the body? (3) bad fuel and a dirty carb. (4) check your tranny linkage to make sure both sides move in unison and completely engage. (5) excess lever travel meaning they hit the dash when forward or the seat when back or something else keeping the laterals from going all the way forward and all the way back (something preventing the internal tranny bands from being fully engaged). |
david berger
Senior Member
Username: Davidrrrd
Post Number: 305
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 172.152.221.88
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, March 14, 2006 - 09:45 am: |
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yah and the list go's on and on, i once had a log caught between the tires and hull that caused symptoms like you described,
let alone anything wrong with your drive chains, like once i destroyed my electric air compressor when it dropped out of my trunk threw the engine hatch and got into my drive chains and sprockets, when i felt a severe loss of power i gave it more gas and kept on going instead of stopping to investigate the problem.
later i found a coper rats nest in the hull by the drain plugs on driver side.
so the possibility's are endless! |
Dennis F. Saskowski
Intermediate Member
Username: Sasko
Post Number: 55
Registered: 07-2005
Posted From: 68.64.195.56
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, April 14, 2006 - 01:15 am: |
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Paul,if your still detiremind to try to fix it your self,check the fuel pump body very carefully.My Kohler 25 had a big lose of power going up hill,then I noticed a hair line crack in the pulse fuel pump body.If that looks ok I'd go with the other guys advice. |
Chris Hiscock (Unregistered Guest)
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 66.103.41.144
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, May 20, 2006 - 08:58 am: |
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Can anyone help with a carb problem on a 86 ARGO with a briggs. that floods at half to open throttle.It runs fine at idle but when accelerating it floods.I cleaned the carb and installed a new feul pump kit.Is there any high speed adjustments,I dont see any high speed screw,just an idle air screw.It doesnt stall but bogs out and pours black smoke from the exhaust.I havent had an ARGO before but I am familiar with carbs,seems to be too rich but I dont see any adjustment to fix it. |
Matt
New member
Username: 09frontier650
Post Number: 1
Registered: 10-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, October 12, 2009 - 11:17 pm: |
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Just joined board. Hi all.I bought a new Argo 650 6x6 Frontier, with B&G 23hp Vanguard. Machine stalls on hills, will not keep idle, backfires like theres no tomorrow, and has top speed of 12 mph on flat with about total internal weight of 290lbs when supposed to be 22 mph as per manufacture. I bought this machine last week brand new, now has about 9hrs on it. Any suggestions... |
Andrew Lapp
Member
Username: Andy
Post Number: 23
Registered: 02-2005
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, October 13, 2009 - 12:32 am: |
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hey matt,
congrats on the new argo! it may be best to check the engine out at a b&s certified shop...it's under warranty for 2 years. sounds like it's something with the carburetor tuning...as far as going up steep hills maybe the float in the bowl isn't adjusted right, that could also explain the idle problem. since it's new you're probably better off just taking it somewhere since it's covered. you don't want to void the warranty. |
Matt
New member
Username: 09frontier650
Post Number: 2
Registered: 10-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, October 14, 2009 - 12:10 am: |
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Figured I might have to bring it to a B$S dealer, fact is Im a little choked at doling out for a 3 hr trip to tune up a machine that is brand new. The dealer was a little casual with the sale, guy couldnt even be bothered to get out from behind his desk, so I guess thats more the issue that sours me lol! Any suggestion as to why top speed is limited to 12mph when it should be 22mph as per manufacturer specs. Thanks for the tips Andrew. Happy motoring. |
Andrew Lapp
Member
Username: Andy
Post Number: 24
Registered: 02-2005
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, October 14, 2009 - 07:44 am: |
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Argos have a high and low gear forward gear. Are you shifting into high? I neve owned an Argo but know a little about them. Either that or the engine is not even getting up close the rpms needed to achieve 22 mph. these engines are usually governed at around 3,600 rpms. Make sure you are shifting correctly first. |
Matt
New member
Username: 09frontier650
Post Number: 3
Registered: 10-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, October 19, 2009 - 11:53 pm: |
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Hi All. Yeah Argo has fwd High Low gears. I wish I were that dumb , it would solve my problem lol! but unfortunately it was in High gear. We took a back trail into the muskeg for moose hunting and I kept my brother waiting and waiting and waiting. I swear I could have gotten there faster in a lawn tractor.I know I wont keep up with a 600 Arctic cat ATV, but holy o'l crap.
I wish they had put the Kohler engine in the 6x6 as they did the 8x8. My experience with Kohler has been great in the past and unfortunately not so good with B$S. However I heard positive reviews on the Vanguard 23 hp. What do you guys run in the Attax, and Max. How do you rate them as machines and overall as well vs the Argo. I only drove a Max once as a kid. Thanks for the help Anrew, hope I figure something out soon, I guess a five hr drive to the dealer might be the answer. Ill phone the manufacturer first. |
Dave Evans
Advanced Member
Username: Dozer
Post Number: 161
Registered: 01-2001
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, October 20, 2009 - 05:17 am: |
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Matt Try calling Richard, he will be helpful even though you dealer was not.
http://www.richardsrelics.com/
Dave Evens |
Erich Kelter
Advanced Member
Username: Fisherman
Post Number: 124
Registered: 11-2005
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, October 20, 2009 - 07:38 am: |
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Just read this, I can't believe that it won't go faster than that(12 mph). There is definitely something not set up right with the engine, I'm guessing throttle/governor. I've got the 18 HP Vanguard in my Bigfoot and it moooooves right along. |
Jeff McBrayer
Intermediate Member
Username: Beemer
Post Number: 74
Registered: 02-2005
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, October 20, 2009 - 10:06 am: |
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I agree it should run around 20mph Jeff |
Matt
New member
Username: 09frontier650
Post Number: 4
Registered: 10-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, October 26, 2009 - 02:33 am: |
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Hi Guys. I'll get on that site Dave and see what the deal is. We are heading back out to our marshes in a couple of weeks so I'd like to have it figured out by then; it's just too painful to drive there at that speed. Thanks Dave, Erich, Jeff I'll keep you posted. |
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