Author |
Message |
Edward Mobley
Junior Member Username: Nebraska
Post Number: 16 Registered: 02-2008
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Friday, February 22, 2008 - 02:07 pm: |
|
I was looking around, on Ebay, and a few other places. My question is this; A person with no experience with these vehicles, other than a test drive or 2, what should one look for to make a wise decision when buying a used unit? Signs of it being well maintained, Signs of poor maint. ?, Signs of abuse? If this were a jeep I could make a serious evaluation as to what is actually there, but on this I am a lamb, not wanting to get sheared. Any advice? |
Jeff bar
Intermediate Member Username: Argo8x8
Post Number: 56 Registered: 03-2005
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Friday, February 22, 2008 - 04:58 pm: |
|
Tough question, I would try to narrow it down to which machine you are looking for, they we can give some pointers. Better yet Get a machine from one of the dealers on this board. Most of them seem to sell good machines. Richard offers really good looking rebuilt machines, and I do know that Jerry has a used machine on the ads page. If you ask, I bet other dealers will list what they have at this time. Most of all get a good machine, otherwise you will be working on it all the time. My 1st machine was a joke and old Argo that had the shit beat out of it, I learned a lot, but the old machine was never anygood. Then I bought a nice Max, ran it for a few years, traded it at JD's for a nice used Argo Response, best thing I could have done, got a good machine in good condition. Able to enjoy machine without working on it all the time. Now I am buying old unusual machines, and I enjoy working on them, but I would not want to have to use them. Hope this helps What machine are you thinking about? Jeff Bar |
Jerry Nuss - Illinois MAX dealer
Senior Member Username: Jerrynuss
Post Number: 632 Registered: 02-2005
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Saturday, February 23, 2008 - 11:10 am: |
|
Edward I have several very nice machines on my website but things to do: 1. Check the machine out in person or get it from a dealer that will back it up. 2. Take a jack with you and jack the machine up on each side. Turn the tires an listen for any grinding or noise. It should feel smooth and be quiet. (Bearings) 3. Garb each tire (should be tires that swim and in the correct direction, knobby or wierd or excessively worn or flat is not good)and pull toward you and push away back toward the machines. If there is any movement be cautious. (Bearings or bearing lock to axle) 4. Take the wheel and try to move it up and down and side to side. Any detectable movement be cautious. ( Bearings, and bearing, seals and flanges and maybe axles grooving on Argo) 5. Start the machines and engage that drive side. Stand back and have someone give it some gas. Check and see if the wheels and tires stay in line. If it is wobbling be skeptical. (Bent Axle or Bent Wheel) 6. Open the body or remove the seats, hood, floorboards. Check for condition of everything. Clan and maintained appearance is good. Rust debris, old dirty oil and sludge is bad. 7. Look at the sprocket teeth on each sprocket. (Missing teeth, curved toward a direction other that straight) 8. Try and wiggle ach sprocket on the axle. Movement means wear. (egged out bolt hole or loose fit) 9. Check each strand of chain. Some surface rust is OK, lots of rust is not good. If there is a half link I normally quit right then. 10. Check the chain adjustment. Is it properly adjusted. Check the tensioners are they broken or worn excessively. Then check the lower tub under the tensioners. Check for marks or holes under the chains where they may have rubbed. Marks or a hole is bad. 11. Check the transmission grab it and try and move it or wobble it around. (Again, movement is bad) 12. Shift it through each gear and position. Pull the top plug and check the inside with your finger. Just like checking a differential on a jeep. Moisture or cream is bad, bad smell is bad, dirty color is bad. 13. If a T-20 check for any leaks. If there is ATF on the floor or a sign of leaking there may be a problem. 14. Check the belt is it evenly worn and in good condition. 15. Try shaking and moving the engine. 16. Remove the filter cover, check the filter. 17. Check the wiring if it is neat and unspliced or no weather checing is what you want. Check the fuel line. Go look in the fuel tank. So small debris is OK. Water or leaves and sticks or dried fuel varnish is bad. |
Jerry Nuss - Illinois MAX dealer
Senior Member Username: Jerrynuss
Post Number: 633 Registered: 02-2005
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Saturday, February 23, 2008 - 11:10 am: |
|
Continued: 18. Start the engine again and let it run for a few minutes at idle. Does it stay running? Check the usual things you would on any engine; smoke knocking, smoothness, etc. 19. Check the battery while the engine is running, look for a clean battery with no corrosion, check the lights. 20. Turn the engine off and put everything back together. 21. Go for a test drive. Is it smooth, turn as you want. 22. OK if the seller lets you get this far and lets you drive the machine you are probably getting an excellent unit. 23. Walk back around the machine and check the body again for any holes or damage you may have missed when you first walked up and looked at it. This is what I do when I check out a machine. I even carry a check list. I expect to have to do some repairs or adjustments. But if it looks like it was not maintained I pass on it. I also check out the seller if it is a private sell. What does their house look like, how old is the seller. The person and their property will reflect how they took care of the machine. This is not all inclusive but meant to give you an idea what you may want to check. |
Joe J
Member Username: Jjconst07
Post Number: 24 Registered: 12-2007
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Sunday, February 24, 2008 - 03:21 pm: |
|
Excellent list of advice Jerry, I have one question, you said on #9 9. Check each strand of chain. Some surface rust is OK, lots of rust is not good. If there is a half link I normally quit right then. I am pretty new at all this, will you please explain " half link " and why you quit at that time? Great post Thank You |
Peter Trusty
New member Username: Pete6x6
Post Number: 2 Registered: 04-2008
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Sunday, February 24, 2008 - 03:50 pm: |
|
Jerry, Great your list will sure help new guys like me. Thanks Peter Trusty |
Jerry Nuss - Illinois MAX dealer
Senior Member Username: Jerrynuss
Post Number: 634 Registered: 02-2005
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Sunday, February 24, 2008 - 06:52 pm: |
|
Joe, People will use a half link when the chain is worn out. The half link will allow them to shorten it up a little and continue to use the worn out chain. The chain length is improper and insufficient to properly seat in the sprockets. So the chain will try to climb up out of the sprockets. If it has been ran like this for a while the sprockets will be prematurely worn and damaged. So the half link tells me: The chain is worn out, the sprockets may be damaged, and the previous owner was cutting corners on maintenance so I can expect potential problems in other places too. Now this is just for a machine that I want to be able to use and not have to do a lot of work on to get safe and reliable. Some machines may be a good deal and worth putting some time and money into. The list is just a guide for people without a lot of experience who want to buy a good reliable used machine. |
Joe J
Member Username: Jjconst07
Post Number: 27 Registered: 12-2007
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Sunday, February 24, 2008 - 09:53 pm: |
|
Thank You, that explains it real well. One thing about this discussion board, you learn lots of new stuff every day. |
Edward Mobley
Junior Member Username: Nebraska
Post Number: 18 Registered: 02-2008
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Monday, February 25, 2008 - 10:06 am: |
|
Thanks alot Jerry. Being new to this, and a "toddle la' rasa" to all of it I think that come time to buy I will not do the private individual, or Ebay thing this time. I'd rather start this on solid ground. I see Brandon still has that loaded Avenger EFI on his site, and I'll email him about that. I am around Omaha and am familiar with his area a bit. |
Jerry Nuss - Illinois MAX dealer
Senior Member Username: Jerrynuss
Post Number: 635 Registered: 02-2005
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Monday, February 25, 2008 - 10:18 am: |
|
Brandon should be able to take care of you on a good machine. If he doesn't have one in stock he can get you to one. |
Edward Mobley
Junior Member Username: Nebraska
Post Number: 19 Registered: 02-2008
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Monday, February 25, 2008 - 03:27 pm: |
|
Jerry, you are in Carterville right? I grew up over in St. Clair county, not too far.. Lots of nice deer at home, lots of cold, moonless nights wandering around in the woods chasing coondogs through the hollers along the bluffs of the mississippi river & along the kaskaskia. Calling coyotes and running a trap line. .... Running out of the house with a loaded firearm to go hunting "alone" at 8-9 years old. Back in the day when your father explained your responsibility, and you were EXPECTED to KNOW the reality of consequences. These days they'd lock me up if my 16 year old ever left the house with a firearm on his own... Ah, the memories of childhood. |
Jerry Nuss - Illinois MAX dealer
Senior Member Username: Jerrynuss
Post Number: 636 Registered: 02-2005
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Monday, February 25, 2008 - 07:52 pm: |
|
Yes Ed I am in Carterville but actually it would be more considered Blairsville. The Big Muddy River runs through my back yard. I used to do the same thing when I was a kid. There were some benefits to living in the country. |