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Aubrey Jones
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Username: Aubrey

Post Number: 1
Registered: 06-2006
Posted From: 66.184.248.217

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Posted on Tuesday, February 06, 2007 - 01:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I have a Max II 6x6 with a B&S vanguard engine. The engine does not recharge the battery like it is supposed to. All of the connections look fine. If I turn the headlights on, the ammeter on the dash responds by dropping to the drain side. When idling or accelerating, the needle doesn't move. According to B&S troubleshooting, I am getting power from the flywheel but not out of the regulator. Looking at the parts diagram I determined the part to be 691185 as seen on page 25 of this link:

http://www.briggsandstratton.com/ipl/pdfs/100/MS2263.pdf

The picture for the part is on page 14. The ref number is 501 (not the A or B). The only thing I don't understand is the B&S part has a different connector than the AATV. The one on the AATV is a small square connector with a black wire coming out of it and the one from B&S has a small round red connector with no wire coming out of it. Does the Max II have a special regulator or can I cut the end off of the existing regulator and solder it to the B&S regulator?

Thanks for any help.
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Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max dealer
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Username: Fred4dot

Post Number: 231
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 216.166.168.53

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Posted on Tuesday, February 06, 2007 - 02:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Aubrey, Sounds like you have a bad battery if your ammeter indicates a drag when the lights are on, but doesn't indicate charge. Check the ammeter right after the engine starts (assuming you have battery enough to start it) - if you get a blip of charge and then nothing, you have a bad battery. Also if your lights dim at idle and brighten with a little throttle, your charger is okay; bad battery.
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Aubrey Jones
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Username: Aubrey

Post Number: 2
Registered: 06-2006
Posted From: 66.184.248.217

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Posted on Tuesday, February 06, 2007 - 03:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I bought the AATV secondhand and the previous owner put a new battery in it. The AATV would crank itself until the battery no longer would turn it over. At that time I emailed Richard about how the battery gets charged and he replied that the engine charges the battery. So I looked at the B&S website and found some troubleshooting material including the parts list mentioned above. I am getting power from the flywheel - at least with a voltmeter on the input of the VR, it fluctuates as the engine is revved. I don't have an adequate ammeter to check the current out of the VR.

Right now, I an stuck with the old manual starter (puff-puff) or charge the battery up for a few more electric starts.

The lights do not brighten when I throttle up.

The only times the ammeter moves is when starting with the electric starter and when the lights are on - both drag the ammeter down.
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Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max dealer
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Username: Fred4dot

Post Number: 232
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Posted on Tuesday, February 06, 2007 - 06:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Did you check to see if there is an inline fuse (down by the solenoid). I think they are all fused, but I'm not sure where to tell you to look for it). Other than that, I'd suggest a visit to your local Briggs repair center. Electrical problems are pretty rare for the Briggs engines.
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Jerry R. Nuss, Max Dealer in Illinois
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Username: Jerrynuss

Post Number: 463
Registered: 02-2005
Posted From: 131.230.43.2

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Posted on Tuesday, February 06, 2007 - 07:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

It sounds like the regulator. Write down the engine model and group information and take it to a Briggs dealer or shop and try a new regulator. They should be around $45. I have replaced a couple and they plug right up.
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Jerry R. Nuss, Max Dealer in Illinois
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Username: Jerrynuss

Post Number: 464
Registered: 02-2005
Posted From: 131.230.43.2

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Posted on Tuesday, February 06, 2007 - 07:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Does it look like this one? #435195

http://www.a1-supply.com/images/435195.gif
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Missouri's Max and Argo Dealer
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Username: Brandon_price

Post Number: 211
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 69.27.205.99

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Posted on Tuesday, February 06, 2007 - 08:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I had a regulator go out on an '04 Max II 16hp. Sounds like that is the problem you have. You are right about the connectors but it is easy to splice them into the Max's wires. I think Briggs gets about $75 for that part.
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Brian in FABULOUS Utah
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Username: Brianprovo

Post Number: 37
Registered: 11-2005
Posted From: 67.177.37.10

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Posted on Tuesday, February 06, 2007 - 10:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Of Course Ebay has it: # 120083982555
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Richard Clark
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Username: Route6x6

Post Number: 170
Registered: 02-1997
Posted From: 74.129.201.133

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Posted on Wednesday, February 07, 2007 - 09:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Aubrey:

The regulator was not modified by RI on your MAX, easy fix, take model number off VANGUARD to you Briggs dealer, buy new one and install.
See my ATV parts website (listed below) for more ATV parts.
I have the world's largest supply of new, used and reproduction
AATV parts. We have most parts for most machines. Please call
on phone for details.

Terms:
We accept Visa. Mastercard and Discover Credit Cards, along with Money Orders
For your protection we only accept credit cards by telephone authorization.


--
Thanks,
Richard Clark
_________________________________________________
ROUTE6x6
4846 Quarry Rd
New Albany IN 47150
812-944-1643 8am- 6pm Eastern Time Monday-Friday only

Please NOTE EXTENDED HOURS

PLEASE NOTE: THE ABOVE ADDRESS IS FOR MAIL and SHIPPING USE ONLY,
I keep no machines or parts at the above address. Also there
are no business hours at the above address.

Visit my ATV parts website at:
http://members.aye.net/~rclark/
Visit my ROUTE6x6 website at: http://www.route6x6.com/
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Aubrey Jones
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Username: Aubrey

Post Number: 3
Registered: 06-2006
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Posted on Wednesday, February 07, 2007 - 11:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I guess therein lies the problem. I did buy the B&S part for $70, cut the connector off of the old VR and spliced it onto the new VR. No improvement.

Jerry, That looks like it except the one I got had a round red connector on the red wire. On this picture:

http://faqs.custhelp.com/rnt/rnw/img/enduser/105-AC_DC_test_chart.jpg

the VR has the yellow square connector (3rd from the top on the top part) and the red round connector (3rd fromthe top of the lower part).

Fred, I haven't checked for a fuse because the ammeter needle does move when cranking or the lights are on, but I'll check to make sure.

Thanks for all the help.
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Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max dealer
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Username: Fred4dot

Post Number: 233
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 216.166.168.53

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Posted on Wednesday, February 07, 2007 - 02:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Aubrey, what year machine are you working on. If it is a 1995 or earlier, the fuse is down by the solenoid and an inline one in a plastic case. Newer, the fuse/s are/is in a fuse holder box and are under the dash, on the left side wall (I'm assuming it would still be there -1998 is the newest I have to check). That fuse is between the voltage regulator and the battery. Your ammeter is fine and will indicate a discharge, but since there is no charging going on, it can't show what isn't there.

Knowing what you have done so far, I'm not sure I should hope it is a fuse.
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Aubrey Jones
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Username: Aubrey

Post Number: 4
Registered: 06-2006
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Posted on Wednesday, February 07, 2007 - 03:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

It is a 1998 model. After spending $70, I'm not sure I want it to be a fuse either. I guess I should have remembered the KISS principle: Keep It Simple, Stupid!

I haven't had time to check it, yet, but I do remember seeing the fuse block under the "dash".
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Aubrey Jones
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Username: Aubrey

Post Number: 5
Registered: 06-2006
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Posted on Thursday, February 08, 2007 - 07:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

OK, I checked it and the only fuse I saw was a 30A blade type fuse connected between the ammeter and ignition switch. It was not blown.

Is there another fuse somewhere else?
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Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max dealer
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Username: Fred4dot

Post Number: 234
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 216.166.168.53

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Posted on Friday, February 09, 2007 - 02:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Not that I am aware of Aubrey - I also didn't realize that it goes between the ammeter and ignition. The in line fuse is between the voltage regulator and the solenoid (I think).

My book says under trouble shooting "battery not charging"
* Engine RPM too low.
* Inline fuse blown (if equipped).
* Defective battery.
* Loose, pinched or corroded battery ground leads.
* Loose, pinched or corroded battery charge leads.
* Open, shorted or grounded wires between output connector and battery.
* Defective diode (open or shorted).
* Defective or improperly grounded regulator - rectifier.
* Diode installed incorrectly (reversed).
* Damaged battery (shorted battery cells).
*Excessive current draw from accessories.
*Low magnetic flux or damaged alternator magnets.

Hope this helps. I'd be making a trip to the Briggs service center.

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