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Bill cripe
Member
Username: Bcripe

Post Number: 21
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 148.64.161.186

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Posted on Sunday, April 30, 2006 - 09:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Hi guys, I have a 450T with the Vanguard 14 hp motor. Lately I have been having motor problems. It will run great for a while then just die. It wont restart until I wait 15 - 20 min minimum. Outside temps dont seem to matter. I changed the oil, fuel filter and gas yesterday. It has been backfiring lately a couple of times after I shut it off. Sometimes I can get it idling sickly but as soon as I try to rev it up a bit it dies. After a while starts right up no problem. Choke is tight and not flapping around. Spark plugs are one year old. What do you guys think?
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david berger
Senior Member
Username: Davidrrrd

Post Number: 342
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 72.85.132.201

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Posted on Monday, May 01, 2006 - 09:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

try all that with your gas cap loose.
also any time you chainge your oil you should remove the puls line from cranck case to micuni fule pump, as it can get oil inside it when your relilling wich screws the pumps up. a good mod would put longer hose on with a loop maybe to prevent oil from geting into pump. or relocating the pump might also help, so 1st two places to check, your caps vent and your fule pumps pulss line.
after that theres crazy diode ignition troubles ect..
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Dodge03 (Unregistered Guest)
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Posted From: 209.162.162.82

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Posted on Thursday, May 18, 2006 - 11:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I was going to ask the exact same question as you did. My '88 has started to do the same thing. After idling for 5 minutes I shut it down and it will not even crank over. Wait five minutes and she fires right back up. Did you ever find a solution - someone mentioned diodes - any idea how to troubleshoot these. Thanks in advance.
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Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max dealer
Advanced Member
Username: Fred4dot

Post Number: 166
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 216.166.168.53

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Posted on Friday, May 19, 2006 - 10:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Don't know how I missed this when it was new.

Bill, If you don't have it fixed yet - what effect does the choke have on your engine (does it run better with the choke out)? Back firing often indicates water in fuel, or sludge in carb. My standard fix for carb/fuel problems is Conklin's 4 Power in your carb and in your gas (not "just any carb cleaner" does the job as well).

Dodge03, yours being an '88, I'm going to guess it is a Tecumseh. Valves being out of adjustment (or in poor condition) could be your problem.
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david berger
Senior Member
Username: Davidrrrd

Post Number: 356
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 72.72.86.165

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Posted on Friday, May 19, 2006 - 10:52 am:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

do you mean after 5 min runing you shut it off and then the starter canot turn the engins crank?
could be from trapped compreshon gasses in the cylinders, or in 1 cylinder.)
thats where it stops when you shut off the spark.
after enoph time for the gasses to escape and blead down your starter would then be able to turn the crank again.
thers a stronger starter available if you wish to chaing over to it.
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Larry Wright
Intermediate Member
Username: Xljimmy

Post Number: 69
Registered: 03-2005
Posted From: 68.248.195.210

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Posted on Friday, May 19, 2006 - 10:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Sometimes I have fixed carb problems by having the air cleaner off and revving engine to high rpm. Then put your hand on the carb intake to seal it off completely. (You will get gas on your hands.) The engine will choke down and right before you think its going to die let off. It will sputter and smoke alittle and clear out. Do that a couple times. This creates maximum engine vacuume and cleans out blocked ports in carb. This doesnt alway work but does sometimes. It is easy so I ussually try it first before tearing into carb. Might try Fred Sowerwine's Conklin's 4 Power stuff first and if that doesnt work completly maybe it will help soften it up enought for this to work it out.

I had non mechanical guy at work ask my about his lawntractor and it sounded like carb. I told him about it and he tried it. It worked and he couldnt believe it. lol

Larry
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Dodge03 (Unregistered Guest)
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Posted From: 161.184.179.153

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Posted on Saturday, May 20, 2006 - 12:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Fred, Yes it certainly is a 16hp Tecumseh. You mentioned a stronger starter - do you have any information. The more I think about it now the more the valves being out of adjustment makes sense. This is a new machine to me. Any replies are greatly appreciated. Thanks for now.
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Alan Meeuwsen
New member
Username: Albo

Post Number: 1
Registered: 08-2001
Posted From: 208.210.74.2

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Posted on Tuesday, May 23, 2006 - 03:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I have a MAX2 with a big gash in the bottom (black) portion of the tub. I seem to remember that someone on this discussion board has HDPE repair kits and instructions for sale. Can anyone tell me who it is or provide contact information. Also does anyone have experience repairing these tubs. Would it work to simply use the material from a HDPE trash can and melt it into the gash. Any info would sure be appreciated.
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Jerry R. Nuss, Max Dealer in Illinois
Senior Member
Username: Jerrynuss

Post Number: 324
Registered: 02-2005
Posted From: 71.244.222.199

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Posted on Tuesday, May 23, 2006 - 04:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

HDPE is a thermoplastic, which means it can be heated and molded and melted and shaped repeatedly.
You can use some HDPE from a matching material and melt/weld it in. A lot of people use a piece from the original tub that is in an out of the way place and cut out a few small strips. Then you can heat up the area to be repaired along with the repair material and melt them together. A spoon or steel putty knife will help with moving the plastic around and shaping it. You can also cool it down this way. If you get it clean and remove all traces of wax and oil it should be a fairly simple repair. Take your time and have proper safety equipment handy. I use a plastic welder from harbor freight. Basically it is a soldering iron with air from a compressor blowing over the tip. I wouldn't use an open flame and would recommend going and buying a new inexpensive soldering iron. Then let it get hot and startusing it to graft in the new material melting them together. Then save the iron for future repairs. Here is a link. It refers to kayaks made of HDPE. http://www.oceankayak.com/product_support/repair.html#welding
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david berger
Senior Member
Username: Davidrrrd

Post Number: 358
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 72.72.122.140

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Posted on Tuesday, May 23, 2006 - 05:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

the repair kits often discussed here are for another type plastic used in aatv bodies years ago.
(A.B.S.)
i probly should develop a HDPE repair kit to offer along side my A.B.S. kit's.
but for now i just offer the soldering iron advice.
the soldering iron repair info from my own trial and error as can be found here in the discussion board threds and i offer it in e-mail responces when it is found a person has contacted me in error about the repair kits.
sometimes i have sent out some HDPE but most of the time it is readaly available enoph not to be nesesary.
it is best to mach the PE exactly if posable as in some saved from some place on the vehicle as there are diferent grades of HDPE and it can prevent good welding.
and it is a shame the way the HDPE is used in makeing the bodies actualy dosent get to achive the high density the name implyes as this requires special handeling in it's cooling and cureing stage to achive the strenth implyed in it's name,
damm tough stuff anyhoot though!!
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Alan Meeuwsen
New member
Username: Albo

Post Number: 2
Registered: 08-2001
Posted From: 208.210.74.2

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Posted on Wednesday, May 24, 2006 - 07:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I appreciate the information guys. I suspected that you could melt it in as you suggested but have no experience so I wanted to check first with someone knowlegable on the subject so that I get it right the first time.
Thanks a lot
Al
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david berger
Senior Member
Username: Davidrrrd

Post Number: 359
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 72.72.122.140

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Posted on Wednesday, May 24, 2006 - 09:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

with the soldering iron method you just nit it together adding filler if you need to as you go, just work on an inch at a time and let it cool in between, then after it is compleatly welded across and cooled you scrape across the weld spot with a sharp knife sidways to shave of the rough or high spots and smooth it to same serfice hight as the serounding hull matireal. ~ you done!~

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