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swamprat (Unregistered Guest)
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Posted From: 69.141.197.101

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Posted on Wednesday, November 23, 2005 - 05:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Has anyone kept thirty wt oil in their Max through the winter? The cold and warm weather periods this time of year is a real concern. I let my Max warm up with the thirty wt oil before I rev up the engine. Yes it does crank a little slower, but I am concerned about topside lube when starting, not when it is warmed up. Oil pressure is 60 psi when running cold, then drops to normal after running a few minutes. A trickle charger is a must with the heavier oil. Also what is the best method to jack up the Max in order to get all the wheels off the ground in order to properly adjust the chains without stressing the frame?
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Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max dealer
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Username: Fred4dot

Post Number: 103
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 216.166.168.53

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Posted on Wednesday, November 23, 2005 - 10:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

swamprat, if you keep your machine inside a heated area, the thirty weight is OK, but otherwise you should switch to 10/30 or 5/30. It's that first few seconds when it first starts that does the damage. My guide is above or below freezing when I start it
.
On jacking it up, there are several ways. Driving the front up on a box or crate (old milk bottle crate works great) or building a sloped ramp with blocks. Then use the trailer hitch on the back. You can also use a jack of any type with a piece of wood 4"x8" in area to spread the load out on the wider flat area of the bottom both front and rear. I block up all four corners right at the outermost edge while I am working on a machine. If you don't have a jack, a six or eight foot 2x4 or 2x6 over a block about ten/twelve inches high makes a good fulcrum. Max are pretty tough, not much chance of doing anything but skinning the plastic regardless of what you use when it is empty and you are working on it.
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Jerry R. Nuss
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Username: Jerrynuss

Post Number: 133
Registered: 02-2005
Posted From: 70.106.219.16

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Posted on Wednesday, November 23, 2005 - 12:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Are you running a synthetic oil? If not, why not? With a synthetic you could run a 0-30 or 5-30 and have your start up protection and normal operating protection. The pressure will indicate lower on the pressure gauge but the lubrication is still there.
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Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max dealer
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Username: Fred4dot

Post Number: 104
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 216.166.168.53

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Posted on Wednesday, November 23, 2005 - 01:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Don't mean to be argumentative, Jerry, but the Briggs manual says to use multi-viscosity and synthetics only below 40 degrees F. They like straight 30 above 40 degrees F. The book cautions on high oil consumption when used above 40 degrees because of the increased engine operating temperature of air cooled engines. They advise to check oil level often if using multi-viscosity (or synthetics) weights above 40 degrees F.

The Kohler engine books appears to agree with you, but they stress checking oil level daily.
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Jerry R. Nuss
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Username: Jerrynuss

Post Number: 134
Registered: 02-2005
Posted From: 70.106.219.16

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Posted on Wednesday, November 23, 2005 - 03:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

This is information from Briggs and Stratton. Fred you are correct for conventional oil, but synthetic is good to use year round.

http://www.briggsandstratton.com/display/router.asp?docid=64066
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Jerry R. Nuss
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Username: Jerrynuss

Post Number: 135
Registered: 02-2005
Posted From: 70.106.219.16

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Posted on Wednesday, November 23, 2005 - 04:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I checked into the use of synthetic oil because I use it in everything except my mazda RX7. While I was at Wal-Mart I saw they had Mobile 1 5w-30 on clearance for $1.00 a quart. I didn't think it would be any good to use being that light so I went home and looked it up. It was actually an approved recommended oil for use in the Briggs and Stratton air cooled engine. And it was also fine for use in my air cooled Porsche engine. So I went back to the store and bought up all the 5w-30 they had on clearance. The synthetic has a higher flash point than conventional oil so I don't notice any consumption let alone additional consumption. I also get cooler running engine temperature and what feels like a little more seat of the pants power increase.
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Dennis F. Saskowski
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Username: Sasko

Post Number: 37
Registered: 07-2005
Posted From: 67.23.117.26

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Posted on Wednesday, November 23, 2005 - 04:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Talked to a local Kohler dealer,he said save your money don't bother using semi- or full synthetic.Kohler/Briggs did tests on engines and found no improvement in life or performance,just use recommended weight and change when required or before.I use conventional oil 10-30 summer,5-30 winter you would be hard pressed to find oil in my motor older than 8hrs.What does it cost?$2.50-&3.00 to dump the oil and refill!Heck thats a gallon of gas.I seen folks extend their oil changes because of the expensive oil they use,I like to get the water and contaminates out often.
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Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max dealer
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Username: Fred4dot

Post Number: 105
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 216.166.168.53

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Posted on Wednesday, November 23, 2005 - 04:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Ok Jerry, I'm convinced. And at $1.00 per quart, its almost as good a deal as regular oil. I always buy oil when it is on sale!

But, if the synthetics cost more, I will stick to regular oil. And everyone should remember that regardless of the type, it should be changed at factory recommended intervals. I personally don't think there is any need to change it more often unless you know it is contaminated (like when a spark plug fails).

The primary reason I check my oil is to make sure it is not overfull. Gas that does not burn gets sent right to the crankcase and oil diluted with gasoline is not adequate lubricant.
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Rogersmith
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Username: Rogersmith

Post Number: 73
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 4.244.174.90

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Posted on Wednesday, November 23, 2005 - 07:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

My two cents on oil. I liked to run Castrol 20-50 in the summmer for the 100+ temps, and maybe 10-30 for my Oklahoma winters, in the Harley, truck, and Briggs. I tried full synthetic castrol in the same weights, in the Briggs. It has more oil pressure at hot idle than the dyno oil, and the lubricity feel between the fingers is better when I drain it.

Have no idea what the factory intervals are.. I change it often, along with a $6 bosch filter. The danger with multiweights is the polymers that change the viscosity with temperature, break down and you lose the higher viscosity it's supposed to have. I'd say if you use multiweight oil, change it often esp in the summer.

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