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chris moziak
New member Username: 2000toys
Post Number: 1 Registered: 06-2005 Posted From: 69.207.124.215
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Thursday, June 09, 2005 - 06:51 pm: |
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i just bought a 98 argo response. It seems to have a problem steering to the left. it steers to the right fine but when i want it to go left some times it does not, it just stops when i pull the left break and sounds like gears are grinding. Afer about 30 mintues of operation the right break smokes. Thanks for any help. |
david berger
Intermediate Member Username: Davidrrrd
Post Number: 76 Registered: 01-2005 Posted From: 172.157.165.128
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Friday, June 10, 2005 - 11:57 am: |
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if your right side brake is draging a little you might not be able to make left turns, this also fits with your observation of the overheating right side brake, : re do your brakes bothe sides to asure proper operation, or in the least loosen the right side brake a little. i have sean an argo 8 come to a smokeing halt after 1 mile at humphree, it took only a trail side loosening to get it threw the next 25 miles! |
Jerry R. Nuss
Member Username: Jerrynuss
Post Number: 48 Registered: 02-2005 Posted From: 68.156.75.29
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Friday, June 10, 2005 - 04:56 pm: |
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With both handles pushed forward against the dash does it pull to one side or the otherwhile driving on a smooth surface? Do you have the steering problem in all three gear positions? |
(Unregistered Guest) Unregistered guest Posted From: 69.207.124.215
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Sunday, June 12, 2005 - 10:36 pm: |
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it seems to go straight when handles are pushed forward, perhaps favoring the right side a little. Steering problem is in all positions. |
Jerry R. Nuss
Intermediate Member Username: Jerrynuss
Post Number: 51 Registered: 02-2005 Posted From: 68.156.75.37
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Monday, June 13, 2005 - 10:35 am: |
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Drain the oil from the transmission and check it for metal pieces. Check the brakes as suggested. Does that model have hydraulic brakes? |
Rogersmith
Member Username: Rogersmith
Post Number: 35 Registered: 01-2005 Posted From: 4.244.102.181
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Monday, June 13, 2005 - 08:44 pm: |
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Yeah it's hydraulic. Find out why the right brake doesn't release. Stuck caliper piston(s), no free play in apply pin between lever and master cylinder.. can't say what the noise is. |
Jerry R. Nuss
Intermediate Member Username: Jerrynuss
Post Number: 52 Registered: 02-2005 Posted From: 66.20.226.33
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Tuesday, June 14, 2005 - 02:22 am: |
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It sounds like you might as well go ahead and do a complete brake rebuild; master cylinders and calipers, and pads if they are worn thin or glazed. The parts are really inexpensive and it is a simple job. Some people that are not familiar with the machines use the wrong brake fluid like DOT 3 which is hydroscopic. When used in wet environments it absorbs moisture and then the moisture causes a bunch of problems from poor performance to corrosion and part failure. |
Dave Keeso
Member Username: Argomag
Post Number: 28 Registered: 01-2005 Posted From: 69.194.78.126
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Tuesday, June 14, 2005 - 10:47 pm: |
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I know the question has come up somewhere before but can't find it- some ARGO vehicles say that it uses dot 5 silicone brake fluid with dow coring- what is dow coring and is it in all dot 5 brake fluid. Also, do you have to bleed the brakes and lines before you put more fluid in the cylinders? |
Jerry R. Nuss
Intermediate Member Username: Jerrynuss
Post Number: 53 Registered: 02-2005 Posted From: 66.20.227.46
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, June 15, 2005 - 04:24 pm: |
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I don't know anything about the Dow Coring. I would guess it is a trade name for a silicone product. Dot 5 should be silicone fluid. Since you bought yours used. The best thing to do would be a removal, inspection, rebuild and replace. If you just want to do a fluid change that can be done too, but you may not get all the old fluid and contaminants out. If that is what you want to do; remove the master cylinder reservoir cover. Hook a piece of tubing on the bleeder valve and run the hose into a clear container with some clean new fluid in it so the tube is submerged. Pump the brake handle slowly and gently so the fluid doesn't splash out of the reservoir. Check the fluid for discoloration and bubbles, there may be coagulation or clots if two types of fluid have been used. Top off the reservoir and pump till the fluid coming out in the container looks the same. Top off and seal the reservoir cover. Pump the handle once, hold it down and close the bleed valve. When you release and pump again it will be soft, on the second pull it should be ready to go. Silicone fluid comes in a couple of colors to help be able to see if it have been flused through the system and to be able to identify it. I have some gold and some purple fluid that I use. If you have solid brakes you don't need to bleed them to do just a top off of fluid. But it doesn't take more than a few seconds and may be a good idea just to remove and bubbles. DOT 5 will hold a lot of bubbles. Don't shake the bottle and pour very gently into the reservoir and pump the brakes slow and gentle so you don't create bubbles. Since you are using the brakes for steering they get very hot quickly. If there is moisture in the fluid the moisture will boil and gas will be formed. The gas is easily compressable and the brake will not have the clamping force to work properly. So DOT 5 is used because it doesn't absorb moisture. |
Dave Keeso
Member Username: Argomag
Post Number: 29 Registered: 01-2005 Posted From: 69.194.78.51
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Friday, June 17, 2005 - 09:05 pm: |
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Thanks for the explanation- I think that answered every question about the fluid. Thanks |