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Jim Rubert
New member
Username: Thehunt
Post Number: 1
Registered: 02-2005
Posted From: 130.76.32.15
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, March 23, 2005 - 04:41 pm: | 
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I just picked up a Hustler for my son (13 yrs.) and I to rebuild as a father and son project. This machine has not ran in 20 years but it was stored on blocks in a barn. Here is the current situation:
We took the top off and there was 4 inches of crap (Sticks, fir needles, leaves, mice nests, etc.) in the bottom of the tub. The front two chains are a little rusty. One axle and bearing is shot and need to be replaced. I drained the engine oil and it looked good. I poored some Magic Mystery oil in the spark plug hole put some in the oil repository. The gas tank need some carb cleaner in it to clean it out.
There is no ignition key. What is my cheapest solution?
Should I take the chains off, soak the chains in gas, then in 10-40 oil and hange them for a couple of days, wipe them down then reinstall?
I need to drain the oil in the transmission. Where is the drain plug? Since it has not ran in 20 years is there anything else I need to do? What type of oil do I use and how much do I use?
A couple of tires are not holding air. Should I take them off and see if the bead is screwed up? The rims have dents in them. Should I try to beat them back in place?
Thank you for all your help. |
(Unregistered Guest)
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 24.2.148.245
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, March 24, 2005 - 09:30 pm: |
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I'd replace all of the chains without a doubt. Be sure to get good quality chain made for a motorcycle type application. Chinese chain tends to stretch. Four-stroke engine? Take off the head, check the cylinder wall, valve seats and valve faces. Replace head gasket. Clean carb, blow out with compressed air. Clean tank. Spin the engine over well with fresh oil and no spark plug. If it has good blue spark, be happy! If not, replace points and condensor. When you gas it and start it up, run it gently. After a while, change the oil. If it does make any knocks or bad noises when it starts up, and they don't go away quickly, stop running it and find out what noise may be coming from where. It's easier to service an engine that hasn't thrown a rod or sucked a valve. This will be a good learning route for your son...the value of patience, and the value of doing a job the right way once (instead of micky-mousing it and then fixing the micky-moused problem). Go to www.rokonworld.com and search for the thread on chain choices. Those Rokons are harder on chain than any riding machine out there...the chain is right in the mud when you ride in mud-holes. I've been there! Hal |
liflod
Junior Member
Username: Liflod
Post Number: 11
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 24.3.234.147
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, March 25, 2005 - 08:38 am: |
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The transmission has 2 plugs on it. It takes ATF. You need to raise the front of the machine or take the transmission out to drain the transmission fluid. When you fill it, fill through the top plug until it comes out the bottom plug. If the transmission fluid looks like motor of gear oil, plan on rebuilding the transmission because somebody used the wrong stuff. |
Jim Rubert
New member
Username: Thehunt
Post Number: 2
Registered: 02-2005
Posted From: 130.76.32.15
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, March 28, 2005 - 01:51 am: |
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I took off the chains and they are soaking in gas for the weekend.
In the process of taking the axle off, there is a lock collar on axle. With the lock collar there is a hex set screw that locks the collar in place. Well, mine is rusted tight. In trying to work the set screw out with Liquid Wrench I stripped the set screw. I then tried to drill it out. Should I just cut it off? I could use a pneumatic cut off tool… What are your thoughts?
Jim |
david berger
Member
Username: Davidrrrd
Post Number: 25
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 172.130.37.34
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, March 28, 2005 - 10:49 am: |
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well jim i know on a maxII i can remove the flange bolts and pull entire bearing out with axel,
if you can do this also then you would be able to suport the coler on something very solid and give it a good whack or two and then turn it a little less than 1/4 turn, then suport it again
(on something very solid)
and whack it again with good heavy hammer,
continue this turning and hiting till you have gon arround once r twice,
now the coler witch is a soft steal will have grown a little and loosend can be griped with pipe wrench or simply pushed off axel with a shop press,if you cant get a good angle on it to hit it then you might find something to use as a punch to deliver the blowes to the coler on the edge for axel hole, not to hard on bearing end so you don't brake bearing locking edge,
myself i have invested in the spaner wrench that fits these collar's so i can tigten and loosen coorrecly instal and remove them,
i use the age old"righty tighty and lefty loosey rime to remember what i have to do when im working on them
david berger
daves atv videos |
Jim Rubert
New member
Username: Thehunt
Post Number: 3
Registered: 02-2005
Posted From: 130.76.32.16
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, April 04, 2005 - 06:27 pm: |
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This is what I have done so far.
1. Cleaned the gas take and petcock valve with carburetor cleaner. They are looking great.
2. Replaced the coil to spark plug wire the old one was cracked and need replacement.
3. Took off ignition switch and purchased a key from my local John Deer shop.
4. Took off and validated that the gas pump is working great.
5. The chains really cleaned up nicely. I am going to cut off the collar on the axle with a sawsall. All the help thus far on trying to free the collar has not worked.
6. Replaced the fuel line
Questions
1. The machine was put away twenty years ago with fuel in the lines and carburetor. I am assuming I need a carburetor rebuild kit. The Hustler has a 16 HP Kohler engine. The machine was built around the mid 70’s. How do I access the float, or open the float bowl in this carburetor? |
liflod
Junior Member
Username: Liflod
Post Number: 15
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 24.3.234.147
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, April 04, 2005 - 10:17 pm: |
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If its the outer locking collar that you are having problems with, just unbolt the bearing flange and remove the whole thing with the axle and then deal with it on the work bench or in a vice. I have been able to cut them off with a chisel or using 2 big pipe wrenches one holding the axle and one spinning the collar to get it loose. Also a Dremel tool with a cut-off wheel will cut right thourgh the collar. |
Jim Rubert
New member
Username: Thehunt
Post Number: 4
Registered: 02-2005
Posted From: 130.76.32.16
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, April 05, 2005 - 02:14 am: |
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Is the collar threaded? Is it suppose to spin off? I have tried to beat if loose but to avial. If it needs to spin off then I will get some pipe wrenches on it. |
david berger
Member
Username: Davidrrrd
Post Number: 30
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 172.172.164.133
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, April 05, 2005 - 10:15 am: |
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the coler is a cam shape that locks onto cam shape on bearing, they work together to grasp the axel as you turn them,
problem becomes wich way was it oridganaly turned to tighten it, i observ the rule "righty tighty and lefty loosely" to remember what i have done when it becomes time to undo it,
re-read the posts above just incase you mised information people have sent you on how too fix this problem, and then remove entire axel and bering asembly and then in a shop remove the locking coller from bearing, if axel is bent badly you might have to press it strate befor the coler will loosen, however in this case be prepaired to find the bearings locking flange is broken and will not lock again,
good luck~ |
liflod
Junior Member
Username: Liflod
Post Number: 16
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 65.209.67.252
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, April 05, 2005 - 08:27 am: |
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The collars are not threaded, but they are a cam-action locking device. They need about 1/4 turn to get them to release from the bearing. I always tighten my collars in the direction of shaft rotation as per the manufactures instructions so to remove them turn it opposite the direction of rotation. Once you get the thing to move, you can turn it back and forth while spraying it with pentrating oil and get it to move easier.
Can you just unbolt the bearing and remove it with the axle? |
Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max dealer
Member
Username: Fred4dot
Post Number: 44
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 216.166.168.53
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, April 05, 2005 - 10:47 am: |
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Jim, The collar moves just a small amount and then tightens again. Make sure the set screw/screws are loose. Use PBlaster between the collar and the axle and tap (easily) all around it (a really hard wack right at the set crew hole, with the screw removed, will split the collar). If you have a spanner wrench (as david berger suggests), use it. Otherwise, use a punch in the indention (not the set screw hole) and tap it toward the rear of the vehicle. If it does not come loose with a hard tap or two, try it the other direction. The collar is egg shaped and only moves maybe a quarter inch at most before it tightens up going the other direction. if you really want to break it off, use a cold punch at the screw hole and it will snap. |
Jim Rubert
New member
Username: Thehunt
Post Number: 5
Registered: 02-2005
Posted From: 130.76.32.144
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, April 06, 2005 - 10:14 pm: |
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Excellent information on the collar. Thank you very much. I will try it this weekend.
I also ordered, points, condenser and carburetor rebuild kit including the float. My goal is to get the engine running and collar off this weekend.
Thank you soooo much for the information |
Jim Rubert
New member
Username: Thehunt
Post Number: 6
Registered: 02-2005
Posted From: 130.76.32.144
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, April 06, 2005 - 10:20 pm: |
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How old is my Hustler?
The kohler engine specs are as follows:
Model: K34105
Spec: 71222A
Serial Number: 7557526
It is a 16 HP engine, I think...
Is there any way from this information as to the age of the machine? |
Jim Rubert
New member
Username: Thehunt
Post Number: 7
Registered: 02-2005
Posted From: 130.76.32.16
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, April 08, 2005 - 12:10 am: |
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It also has a disk break. So it is in the 1980's. |
(Unregistered Guest)
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 130.76.32.16
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, April 12, 2005 - 12:55 pm: |
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The engine is running great.
One side of the transmission opperates correctly the other will not engage. Any ideas?
Is there any adjustment I can make prior to pulling and disassemble?
Jim |
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