| Author |
Message |
    
G.R. Hood
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm: | 
|
I am new to ATV market, I need to know the best price for a good used ATV that is reliable (not junk) that will last approx 10 years. Also which is the best for the money and what should I look for to keep from buying junk? |
Dave Blackburn (Dave)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm: |
|
G.R. Really tough question! Look with your eyes wide open, just like a used car, the worst lemon out there turns cherry as soon as the owner decides to sell. Insist on testing it on steep hills,in the water, and in mud, these will show how it handles the tuff stuff. Inspect everything you can inspect, chains, bearings, axles etc. There are people here much better qualified to tell you what wears out on what, what's easily repairable and what's worth how much, but in great measure it depends on how much you can or will pay. I get the impression just about any machine can be repaired, if you have the patience and some simple mechanical ability.
I wasn't patient, didn't want to spend my time rebuilding and bought a brand new Power-Trac for just under $8,000, Stay Away From Power-Tracs!!! They're like getting a cow when you want a horse! sure you can ride it, but you'll regret it! |
Wilfred Hass (Wilfy)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm: |
|
Hi All,
I'm new to the world of Max. Just got a 65 Max IV and totally love it (I finally have a fighting cahnce against the beavers and their damns).
A simple question from a simple person: How will I know when the bearings need to be replaced, and is there a civilized way to replace the rear axle bearings (inner and outer) or do you have to lift out the engine and transmission to get at them?
Thanks in advance. |
david berger (Davidrrrd)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm: |
|
WELL WHEN YOU FIND YOUR TAKEING ON MORE AND MORE WATER WHEN YOU USE IT IN THE WATER, LOOK AT THEM FROM TIME TO TIME, MAYBE YOU CAN CAIRFULY LIFT ONE SIDE AT A TIME WITH A LONG BOARD ON A JACK BECAUSE YOUR MAX IS OLD ENOPH TO BE MADE FROM A.B.S.PLASTIC YOU WANT TO BE CAIRFULL NOT TO CRACK IT WITH YOUR JACK,WITH YOUR TIRES OFF YOU CAN RATTLE THE AXELS BY HAND AND SEE IF YOU CAN SEE THE BALLS, IT'S ALMOST CURTINS FER THEM WHEN THEY RATTLE AND YOU CAN SEE THE BALLS, HEH HEH
I TRY TO HAVE NEW BEARINGS ON HAND AND I HAVE A SPANNER WRENCH ALSO SO THE LOCKING RING WILL NOT GET DESTROID WHEN PUTIN THEM ON OR TAKING THEM OFF, I USE RIGHTY TIGHTY LEFTY LOOSEY RULE ALSO SO I DON'T GO THE WRONG WAY AND BRAKE THE BEARING RACE ON THE BEARINGS I PUT ON MYSELFE, THE ONES ON IT NOW ARE STILL A MISTORY FOR YOU TO SOLVE,
YOU CAN GET BY WITHOUT LOCKING RINGS AND ALL THE HASTLES THAT COME WITH THEM TOO LAITER IF YOU CAN CAIRFULLY MESURE THE DISTANCE FROM THE DRIVE TUBE END AND THE INSIDE OF YOUR BEARINGS RACE, AND MAKE SPACERS, THEN ONLY THE BOLT USED TO DRIVE THE AXEL WILL BE NESESARY TO HOLD IN THE AXLE.
THIS CAN BE TIME CONSUMING THOUGH AS IT IS MORE THAN POSABLE THAT EACH AXLE MAY NEED A DIFERENT SIZE SPACER ,I WISH I HAD DONE THIS ON MY MAX II
I HAVE HAD TO REPLACE A FEW PERFICTLY GOOD BEARINGS JUST BECAUSE THE RACE CHIPED IN THE LOCKING AREA AND WOULD NOT LOCK THE AXLE ANY MORE,
I REPLACED THE LOCKERS ON AN ATTEX OF MINE AND IT WORKS GREAT WITHOUT THEM, IT WAS REALY EASY ON THE ATTEX THOUGH AS THE DRIVE TUBES ARE FULL LENTH AND FIT VERRY NICELY BETWEEN THE INER AND OUTER BEARINGS,
(GOOD EXAMPLE OF QUALITY & WORKMANSHIP HUH)
NOW AS TO YER OLD A.B.S.BODY I HAVE A.B.S.REPAIR KITS THAT I SELL, MANY HERE HAVE TRYED THEM AND CAN TELL YOU THERE WORTH GETTING, |
Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max Dealer (Fred4dot)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm: |
|
Wilfred, Get the wheels off the ground and grip the tire with your hands at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock. Try to move the tire up/down and in/out. Just a little play is OK. Repeat the procedure with your hands at 9 and 3 o'clock (if your chains are properly adjusted, they will mask some of the movement). If you have excessive water leakage, that is a sign of a bad bearing. Most leakage comes from loose bearing flange bolts (make sure all are uniformly tight and make sure you have grease in the outer bearing cavity (if a glob of grease escapes from between the flanges, that is a good indication of loose bearing bolts or a grain of something between the plates). To replace the right rear bearings, you will save much time and frustration by pulling the engine (take the frame with the motor attached). |
Wilfred Hass (Wilfy)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm: |
|
Thanks All! One mistake I made - its a 95 MAX, not a 65. My fat fingers don't work too well with this keyboard.
Looks like I'll have lots of time to deal with the rear axle bearings. This weekend, the bug suddenly lost power and started smoking blue smoke. I opened it up and found a bit of oil coming out from the bottom of the block (just under the filter, above the rack the block sits on). It looks like there is a hair-line crack on the block by one of the bolts.
I don't know if this is a real problem of just a quick scare. But considering I'm 150 miles from the nearest help, I can't afford to blow the engine. So onto the trailer and in she comes. Can anyone recommend where I can get a new block or engine if necessary (in Canada and using Cdn funny money)?
wilf |
jim stefanowicz
New member
Username: Maxindetroit1
Post Number: 1
Registered: 03-2005
Posted From: 205.188.117.10
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, July 23, 2005 - 12:40 am: |
|
Thinking of buying a new Max4, I have a Max2 that has been well maintained, it has a 16hp b/s, tan in color, has seat belts and a roll bar, Rawhide tires in good shape, runs great, good bearings, sprockets, and chains, still has alot of adjustment left on them, leaks very little water, had it in the water a whole day, and got maybe a cup out of it. The question is what is the approximate value to start asking for this? Have all the manuals to go with it. Any help would be appreciated, for a starting point. Jim |
Bud (Unregistered Guest)
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 167.230.104.90
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, July 27, 2005 - 01:16 pm: |
|
What year is your Max II? How many hours on it? |
jim stefanowicz
New member
Username: Maxindetroit1
Post Number: 2
Registered: 03-2005
Posted From: 205.188.117.10
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, July 29, 2005 - 12:32 am: |
|
1994.......Not sure of the hours, it does not have a hour meter on it, I do know the guy who bought it new, and he only used it once a year for deer season, I bought it from him, about 2 years ago, and i would be surprised if I put 75 hours on it.Thanks, Jim |
(Unregistered Guest)
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 167.230.104.90
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, August 01, 2005 - 11:23 am: |
|
I'd guesstimate $2500 - $3000 for an 11 year old Max II in the condition that you describe. I know that there are a lot of experts on the board here that will probably chime in with their vaulation opinions.
Good luck on your sale and quest for a Max IV.
Bud |
Jerry R. Nuss
Intermediate Member
Username: Jerrynuss
Post Number: 63
Registered: 02-2005
Posted From: 70.106.202.129
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, August 01, 2005 - 07:19 pm: |
|
You can check the Kelly's Blue Book price and get a ballpark figure. You can also compare it with models sold on route 6x6 classifieds and on *bay. |
Jim Stefanowicz (Unregistered Guest)
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 152.163.100.203
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, August 01, 2005 - 11:43 pm: |
|
Thanks all for your input. |
|
Shop Talk: Tech Tips and Q&A section