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david berger (Davidrrrd)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:36 pm: | 
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well plenty of people now have or are in the prosses of useing my A.B.S.repair kits, so my question to them is : howed you like them? i have receved plenty of happy e-mails from you but i was wondering if thers anything you have noticed about it's use not already covered here in some way, any trick that helps or problems incerd?
any observations?
any sugestions?
so lets here your expereances with the stuff!
i will update my kits acoringly if i can.
i am going to coz chem for more A.B.S. but its black im thinking of getting this time as i havent any left and its commen to all the abs bodyed aatv's so its populer, |
philip osborn
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:36 pm: |
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Hey everyone I am user of Dave's stuff and I can say it really works! I also found that the black abs likes to sink into the surface area. Give it a try you will "definately" not be disappointed. |
Joel Haslett (Rustyjeep)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:36 pm: |
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We have been using one of Dave's ABS kits too. We had an ABS Attex beside a fiberglass Rough Rider doing body repairs to both at the same time. I was suprised at how much easier the ABS is to repair than the fiberglass. For cracks I ground a "V" into the crack like you would grind a crack in steel before welding,then cleaned the area with acetone and spread the liquid material into the crack.
It is amazing to see what people did to repair ABS 6x6s in the past. One Attex we have someone coated the whole lower hull with fiberglass cloth. A real big mess to fix. So get yourself some "Plastic Surgeon in a Can". |
david berger (Davidrrrd)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:36 pm: |
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"Plastic Surgeon in a Can", well i like the sound of that better than goo!
who was it Here that first called it "GOO"??? |
david berger (Davidrrrd)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:36 pm: |
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i was looking for tips you could shair,
for example:
dorry used her own way to bridge a hole, im a duct tape kind of guy but she sofens the edges first and puts drywall fiberglass screen tape
into the sofend edge and across hole folowed by a coating around the edge with the abs repair mat, when it drys she paints on a coat of abs stuff on each side and presto its done!
works for her, now what ideas has anyone to add to this |
John Kevin Maiolo (Johnmaiolo)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:36 pm: |
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David, when I repaired the Amphicat it had sheetmetal covering the holes from the inside. I simply repaired the outside first removed the sheetmetal and repaired the inside. I think I will try your duct tape idea since the sheetmetal leaves gaps. I am also going to purchase a Dremel moto tool to V out the cracks like you suggested. It will work better than a wood chisel. Great product, by the way, I may need some more red ABS. |
david berger (Davidrrrd)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:36 pm: |
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BEFORE WE BEGIN REMEMBER ASATONE IS EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE AND SHOULD NOT BE USED WITHOUT ADEQUATE VENTILATION, PLEASE REFER TO THE ASATONE CANS LABEL FOR THOSE DETAILS,
ALSO THE MATERIAL IS VERY STICKY AND WILL FUZE WELL TO SKIN! SO BE CAIRFULL,
ALSO ASATONE WILL STING LIKE A BEE IF IT GETS INTO ANY CUT'S IN YOUR SKIN !
( I LEARNED THIS THE HARD WAY)
material is made by adding to the can 1 bag of ABS (aprox 1/2 can) and then fill with
asatone (from the harwhere store) up to the same level as the ABS,
(or fill 1/2 way with asatone and sprinkle in ABS too the same level,)
(the rest of the ABS is for refilling later)
then seal can cairfuly and evenly,1/2 way closed just as when it arrived to you,
not too tight so can will last many years.
Also a bent up can may dry up, I have a 30 year old kit from an attex dealer that's still fresh!
It will be ready to use overnight at room temp.
Prepare the erea you will repair with an asatone soaked rag for holes
or dremal tool for cracks,
a dremal bit #117 dose a good job at penetrating to bottom of cracks and feathering edges ect..ect..
then soak erea with asatone rag or the brush included in the kit,
for this you will need a spagety sauce jar 1/4 full of asatone,leave the brush in the jar
(i guess i know what your having for supper tonight)
cleaning and pre soaking is to about 1/2 - 1 inch outside the repair to alow feathering out the repair stuff,
pre soaking is pre softening to aid in chemwelding, keep wet for 1 - 2 minutes or until the plastic is softened,
(You can stick your finger nail in it a little)
work ahead aprx 6 - 10 inches at a time as asatone dries so fast and you may not get a good weld, you get a feal for it with practice, apply like putty with a bondo spreader,(the one in the kit is about the size you need so you will scoop out just what you can work with at any 1 time .
a 1/8 "{ layer is a good start, you can visit it later when it has dried some,
a quick re prep with the brushed on asatone and then another coat of ABSmatireail as needed,
it has to dry from the inside to the outside and if you go too thickly it will dry on the outside and fill up with bubles,
(not a good thing) if you could not resist and you went too thickly don't panic! just visit every 1/2 hr or so and
brush it off with asatone too keep the surface wet to keep a path open for gases too escape,
you can poke at it with your finger to see how the insides are drying
(spongy = bubbles) when its almost hard you can let it dry. as i said you will get the hang of this.
TO BRIDGE HOLES I PLACE DUCT TAPE OVER HOLE ON ONE SIDE AND PAINT THE REPAIR MATIREAL OVER THE TAPE , when dry enoph remove the tape and it will finish drying quickly.
keep the can covered while in use and splash in a capful or two when your resealing the can each day, this makes up for loses during open time while in use,
if at any time the contents of the can "skin over" push aside such skin and don't use it as it will not fuze with the erea to be repaired (too dry) use only the realy damm stick stuff!. it contains the right amount of asatone.
when opening the paint type can i found it was a good idea to pry just a little while turning can as you go, it may take more than 1 turn but the can will last for years.
also in your kit you will find a sample of wallboard sanding cloth, i have found it works great with plastic as it dose not clog up,
sand if you like after it has dried up compleatly,(depending on how thick it was applied and weather is a factor,) if a dull finish is preferred just leave it after sanding,
if you wish for a shiny surface then apply a quick coat of asatone to it,
any questions, comments,sugestions, or praise just e-mail: davidrrrd@yahoo.com
CAN I INTREST YOU IN A HUMPHREY VIDEO OR A PETES SPRING FLING VIDEO?
IM WORKING ON AN A.B.S. REPAIR VIDEO TOO! $15.00 EACH WICH INCLUDS SHIPPING.
(C)2002 DAVID C BERGER
DAVES ATV VIDEOS |
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Shop Talk: Tech Tips and Q&A section