| Author |
Message |
    
Help
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm: | 
|
Does anybody have any idea what throttle cable fits the Max II? I can not find one. I broke mine because it froze. Please help. |
Troy Moore (Hustler)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm: |
|
Email me and I can help. troy.moore@wcom.com |
Luke
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm: |
|
Get a heated throttle cable from max!!!! Only cost $40.00 for the kit. Beats thawing it out with heat gun or hair dryer!!!! |
Harry Dusseau (Dirtyharry)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm: |
|
CHEAP THROTTLE SOLUTION-
For a cheaper fixit for frozen throttle blues, try putting some antifreeze in the throttle cable. Use a syringe or oiling needle to get it inside the cable. Works great, low cost. Take care. |
Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max Dealer (Fred4dot)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm: |
|
And if you do freeze up your cable, don't force it (even a little bit) because all you will do is break it. I carry an insulated wire with two aligator clips - if a cable freezes, I put one clip on the positive battery terminal and touch the other clip to the cable at the lever or the casing at the lever. It will spark as it is a dead short, and just a very short time is needed to free it (it will freeze again). A throttle cable that is kept full of lubricant will not freeze, but most people let water get in so there is a layer of lubricant and a layer of water, layer of lubricant and layer of water. Every fall, I blow everything out of my throttle cable and refill it with fresh lubricant, I do try to keep my throttle covered and I have never had a frozen cable (even with 40 below temps) on a machine I have preped for winter. I have had several machines come in for fixing that had water in the casing even though they insisted they had lubed the cable. Any time a cable has frozen, I take it out and hang it vertically in a warm room so it can drain and dry before I relube it.
The heated cable is good insurance, but it too will freeze if it isn't lubed and it takes about seven to ten minutes to thaw a frozen cable with the heat element..
I personally would use RV anti-freeze if I were to use anti-freeze so it wouldn't be corrosive and eat up the cable.
The syringe and needle work very well for lubing (make sure the front of the machine is up high enough so gravity will carry the stuff completely through the casing and lower the front when stuff starts coming out at the engine so you get the whole casing full. This is a slow process (not near as fast as using RI's luber),but will get the entire casing full of lubricant which is hard to do with just the luber. Actually, I use the luber first and then use the drip system to top it off.
I would like to remind everyone that every time you go up a steep hill and every time you squeeze the throttle lever, you are forcing a little bit of lubricant toward the engine and out of the cable casing. Point being is: lubricant is used up just as is gasoline and needs to be replentished (when you change your oil, lube your cable, maybe more often in freezing temps). |
George
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm: |
|
Fred. Thanks again for the information. As always you are well informed and well versed on the Max. I replaced the throttle cable with the heated one, but made a new choke cable. (I broke it too, the end pulled off!!) I bought a new choke cable from NAPA it has a metal handle. I uncoiled it and lubed it with NAPA anti-sieze, put it back in the metal housing and wrapped it with pipe insulating tape. Then I wrapped this with aluminum reflecting tape. So far it works better than the original.
God Bless,
George |
Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max Dealer (Fred4dot)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm: |
|
Chokes are another thing that can freeze. If you drill a hole in the end to the wire, it too can be zapped, but it does not thaw as easily as does the throttle. I have found that the choke thaws out (in time) with the engine running. So - if you can't service it, leave it part way out when you shut off the engine. With 1/2 choke your engine should start and by the time it is ready to go off choke, the cable will work.
If you pull the end off a frozen choke cable, you can use elmers and glue it back on. Gravity and air work pretty well to get the moisture out of a choke cable. Gravity drip of lubricant works here too.
ignitions also take on water and need to be winterized. |
George
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm: |
|
Just thought I would give you guys an update. I think I may have found what RI is using. Although they told me that the cables are made specifically for them I had a hard time beleiving it so I kept looking. The cables that they use are very similar to go-cart cables and I even found a mini-bike cable that is identical except for the length about two feet shorter than the original, but only six inches shorter than the heated replacment cable I received. |
david berger (David3rdd)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm: |
|
HECK, YOU CAN FIX A BROKEN CABLE EASY (WITH PRACTICE)JUST KEEP A BYCICLE DERAILER CABLE HANDY(THE LONGEST AVAILABLE)THAYR APROX $15.00 AT GOOD BIKE SHOPS, CUT OFF ONE END AND SEND IT THREW THE OLD CABLE SHETH AND COMPAIRE THE LENTH TO YOUR NEEDS, CUT AGAIN JUST A LITTLE LONGER AND CRIMP A SHORTEND SOLDERLESS CONECTER TO IT, (PRACTICE THIS PART ON THE OLD CABLE)PRESTO A EMERGANCY CABLE!! OR IF YOU WISH TO HAVE A PERFICT FIT ALL READY INCASE OF INSTED OF AFTER THE FACT JUST REMOVE THE CABLE FROM THE MACHINE YOU WISH TO COPPY AND USE THE SAME DERAILER CABLE BUT THIS TIME GET DERAILER SHETH FROM THE BIKE SHOP ALSO IT'S AVAILABLE IN COLORS TOO,USUALY APROX $1.00 A FOOT, AND THIS MACKES A BETER,FASTER CABLE ANYWAY,GOOD LUCK, PRACTICE,YOU WILL BE A BELEAVER TRUST ME!! |
Marc Stobinski (Jerseybigfoot)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm: |
|
I would like to thank Harry and Fred for the antifreeze lube idea. It works great. After thawing the cable out on my Hustler and trying to force WD40 down the cable only to have it refreeze,I pulled the cable and out of the Hustler and made a hose that fit over the carb end of the cable and blew the cable out with compressed air. You should see the gunk that gets into the cable. Flushed the cable with more WD and air till it was clean poured some RV antifreeze down the hose till it ran out the other end. Installed the cable and refilled it with the antifreeze. I also put a plastic bag over the end of the stick and throttle to keep the snow and water out of the throttle lever. |
ron minor (Rem90t)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm: |
|
Hey fellas, I've got a frozen choke cable and
today I tried to take it out by disconnecting it
from the dash and pulling it out. Didn't work!
The damn thing hung up on something under the body. Is there a easy way to get this out or
will I have take the body half apart by drilling
out the rivets? This is on a Max IV. Thanks in
advance. Ron |
Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max Dealer (Fred4dot)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm: |
|
Ron, You should be able to work it out (be careful because there might be wires on that side, too). Getting something back in is going to be tough. I always hook together and tape a piece of wire to the cable so I have something to drag the new one back in with. In this case, I would feed a wire through from the engine side and when it came out at the dash, I would fasten that wire to your choke cable and tape it so there are no rough edges to hang up (don't use a big gob of tape because it will hang up on the hole where it goes to the engine (you could drill that hole bigger so it would be easier to get out of).
Generally speaking if you will get the front end of the machine up about four feet, in warm weather, gravity will drain all the water out of your choke if you will disconnect it from the engine and dash and pull it out just enough so it doesn't enter the body cavity. Use something to hold the end with the knob up and if you have a way to blow air from the knob toward the engine, all the water will leave more quickly. Add some lubricant with the syringe and needle and lower the knob side/raise the engine side until you have the casing full of lubricant Then slide the cable back, reconnect. |
Tim Wafer (Iflyrctoo)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm: |
|
Ron
I replaced mine last year and seems to me there was a clamp or two pop riveted to the inside of the upper body near the back. Just drill the head off it and it should pull free.
Tim |
E L McKenney
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm: |
|
Can anyone tell me were I can get a throttle cable for a MAX IV with the 2-stroke Chapparall 484cc motor, I tried to make one from bulk cable that the motorcycle shop had, but it is too heavy and doesn't move well. I think it was for brakes. I finally get my project ressurected and now I go like heck but stopping is interesting. |
Sam Keys
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm: |
|
Try Richard Clark the owner of this site, he has almost everything
Sam Keys |
Shop Talk: Tech Tips and Q&A section