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John Hunter
New member
Username: Rotten
Post Number: 1
Registered: 03-2006
Posted From: 69.34.205.58
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, March 07, 2006 - 06:32 pm: | |
I'm pretty new to these things and I recently purchased an Attex (tomahawk i believe) and my dad purchased a max II.
The attex doesnt move forward until i push the sticks forward and and the max goes forward when its throttled up even if the sticks arent pushed forward.
The attex to me drives more like a bobcat skidsteer (push the left lever forward to turn right) whereas the max drives more like a loader or dozer (pull back on the right stick to turn right)
Is this the correct way these machines are supposed to work?
I cant wait till it warms up a bit more so i can go playing.
I live about 10 miles from deepwater MO and hope that maybe there will be a meet there this year.
Thanks for such a great discussion board. I have learned so much already. |
Missouri's Max and Argo Dealer
Advanced Member
Username: Brandon_price
Post Number: 102
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 69.27.205.97
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, March 07, 2006 - 07:02 pm: | |
Hi John, good to hear you're ready for a Deepwater ride. I have posted in another topic about planning a ride there within the next few weeks.
The Attex (with a T-20 trans) and all Maxs operate the same. Max has large springs on the steering to pull the sticks forward. This makes it much easier and comfortable to drive. You have to push the sticks forward on your Attex while the Max springs will do that for you. |
liflod
Intermediate Member
Username: Liflod
Post Number: 75
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 67.165.55.22
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, March 07, 2006 - 07:33 pm: | |
Also when you are driving for an extended period of time in the trails with the Max, you have to pull back on the sticks to overcome spring pressure and your arms get tired. The Max is a little easier for beginners but the Attex is giong to have an "easier" feel to drive it. Just make sure to put forward pressure on the sticks when you are going up hill or in the mud. If you are new to driving the Attex, you may get some bouncing and bucking because you are not pushing the laterals all the way forward.
I loosened the spring pressure on my Max IV so the sticks would stay forward, but I do not have to fight the springs as much while braking and turning. |
Larry Wright
Intermediate Member
Username: Xljimmy
Post Number: 55
Registered: 03-2005
Posted From: 64.109.110.21
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, March 07, 2006 - 08:00 pm: | |
Does the attex have the T-20 or bakerhill? It sounds alot like the bakerhill tranny also. Bakerhills have calipers and planetary gears outside of trans and the non reverse model just has a shaft between planetaries. The bakerhill is like having two clutches. Kinda neat trans. Simple and works good. It was only used '69-'70 I believe. I like mine but wish I had reverse. |
John Hunter
New member
Username: Rotten
Post Number: 2
Registered: 03-2006
Posted From: 71.0.57.198
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, March 07, 2006 - 11:01 pm: | |
But on our max you dont have to push forward and they dont move forward(you can push them forward but it doesnt seem to effect anything). Once you pull back the throttle its off and going. Is it out of adjustment?
The attex seems to drive pretty natural to me because i drive bobcats and scattrack skid steers all the time. We also have a cat skid steer that has a single joy stick for the drive (electric over hydralic i think) I sure would have liked to try the attex that was that way. Sure would be cool to convert one.
Im pretty sure my attex was built around 78. Thats what was stamped on the carb pump.
It looks just like this inside
http://www.route6x6.com/info/attex/bro181.jpg
except it has the muffler out the back because it has tracks. It does have reverse.
Now if i can just get that camo paint off and restore it to the original yellow! |
Larry Wright
Intermediate Member
Username: Xljimmy
Post Number: 56
Registered: 03-2005
Posted From: 64.109.110.21
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, March 07, 2006 - 11:07 pm: | |
yea T-20
Error
Your message is too short. It must have at least 8 words that are at least two letters long. Your message had only 2 such words
I fixed that error. lol |
liflod
Intermediate Member
Username: Liflod
Post Number: 76
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 151.201.211.103
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, March 08, 2006 - 08:02 am: | |
The transmissions operate identical on both machines. The Max has springs that pull the sticks forward forward for you. The Attex does not have the springs, so you must push them forward to get the machine to move forward when you give it throttle. Even though the Max has springs pulling the sticks forward, they do not always have enough pressure to keep the bands inside the transmission fully engaged, so when you are operating under heavy loads, push on the sticks to make sure tha bands don't slip.
It does not sound like anything is wrong with the adjustment.
When you shift into reverse by pulling the other handle either up or rearward, you need to pull the sticks back to get the machine to move backward and then push forward (or let the sticks move forward) to apply the brakes. |
John Hunter
New member
Username: Rotten
Post Number: 4
Registered: 03-2006
Posted From: 69.34.205.58
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, March 08, 2006 - 09:03 am: | |
But the sticks dont move forward on our max when you pull the throttle, they remain in the middle, and the machine moves forward. You do have to pull back when in reverse. |
liflod
Intermediate Member
Username: Liflod
Post Number: 77
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 151.201.211.103
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, March 08, 2006 - 10:16 am: | |
The sticks are already moved forward as far as they can go with the springs. If you remove those springs, it will drive exactly like the Attex. |
Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max dealer
Advanced Member
Username: Fred4dot
Post Number: 141
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 216.166.168.53
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, March 08, 2006 - 11:42 am: | |
John, Just to add a bit to the above. With the T-20 in forward gear, when both laterals are all the way forward, the forward drive bands (inside the tranny) are fully engaged. When the levers are brought to the mid travel position, you have neutral (you will free wheel if going down hill). When the sticks are brought all the way back, the tranny bands are in brake mode and the brakes are fully engaged. If the bands are not fully engaged, you will have partial drive or partial brake. When climbing, you need to consciously push the levers forward (especially with your Attex) as it is human nature to pull back just a little as you go up. When going downhill, you need to practice so you only partially engage the brake bands. It requires smooth steady hands and you might want to brace your arms on your legs so you don't bounce down the hill.. When climbing and you need to alter direction, slip steer by partially disengaging one side or the other (keeping a little power to the wheels, but one side turning slower than the other). Often, just having one side in neutral is enough to effect a turn on level ground (give a little more gas to the side that is powering through the turn). To make a sharp turn, you need to engage the brake on the pivot set of wheels.
When in reverse gear when the laterals are all the way forward, the brake is fully engaged (the springs on a max allow one to park safely with the front facing up and the machine will not roll backwards (it will roll forwards so make sure that downhill is behind the machine). The mid point of travel is neutral and to be fully engaged in reverse drive, the sticks need to be back as far as they will go and held in that position.
The springs on a Max can be good or bad, depending on what you do most. Going on steep downhills, they increase your workout, but I personally want them on and tight enough so that the brake is fully engaged when the machine is in reverse.
Normal lateral travel for a T-20 is between six and eleven inches (must be able to reach the end of the travel without anything but the internal bands affecting how far they go). Don't want them hitting the dash or the seat. Measure with one lever all the way forward and one lever all the way back from the center of each lever. |
Bud Dunn
Member
Username: Budtx
Post Number: 21
Registered: 11-2005
Posted From: 167.230.104.90
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, March 08, 2006 - 02:55 pm: | |
{i}But on our max you dont have to push forward and they dont move forward(you can push them forward but it doesnt seem to effect anything). Once you pull back the throttle its off and going. Is it out of adjustment?{/i}}
It is functioning just as it should. Your Max is not out of adjustment. |
Jack Ouellette
Junior Member
Username: Beungood
Post Number: 12
Registered: 02-2005
Posted From: 205.188.116.8
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, March 08, 2006 - 04:51 pm: | |
Fred, when you are climbing and effecting a turn with this slip, what happens to the true 6 wheel drive aspect of the Max's strong point? How does it make it different than an Argo in this respect? This is not meant as a slap ,just a chance to understand the tranny differance
Thanks
Jack |
Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max dealer
Advanced Member
Username: Fred4dot
Post Number: 142
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 216.166.168.53
Rating: 
Votes: 1 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, March 08, 2006 - 05:45 pm: | |
well Jack, If one slip steers (bands partially engaged) you still have six wheel drive. If the driver elects to put one side into neutral (or brakes), then you have taken all the power away and it is only three wheel drive. But I would like to make it clear that it is at the driver's discretion if it goes out of six wheel drive with a T-20, not because one side has lost traction. Whether a T-20 is in six wheel drive or three wheel drive is entirely up to the operator, not determined by machine design. |
John Hunter
New member
Username: Rotten
Post Number: 6
Registered: 03-2006
Posted From: 65.40.190.93
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, March 08, 2006 - 09:43 pm: | |
The machine doesnt seem to be in neutral untill i pull back a little ways on the sticks.
Anyway I might remove those springs because every one in my family is used to driving bobcat skidsteers and driving the attex sure seems a lot more natural.
I'd love to hear from someone out there who has removed the springs, did you have any problems with them off? Did you put them back on?
Thanks for the quick responses and information. |
(Unregistered Guest)
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 65.40.190.93
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, March 08, 2006 - 09:42 pm: | |
The machine doesnt seem to be in neutral untill i pull back a little ways on the sticks.
Anyway I might remove those springs because every one in my family is used to driving bobcat skidsteers and driving the attex sure seems a lot more natural.
I'd love to hear from someone out there who has removed the springs, did you have any problems with them off? Did you put them back on?
Thanks for the quick responses and information. |
Jerry R. Nuss, Max Dealer in Illinois
Senior Member
Username: Jerrynuss
Post Number: 281
Registered: 02-2005
Posted From: 71.244.215.162
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, March 08, 2006 - 10:37 pm: | |
One of the advantages of the springs is starting the machine. The machine is supposed to be in reverse to start it or park it. With the springs providing tension the brakes are on when in reverse. Sometimes from the factory the springs are a little too tight for some people. I'll back them off so they don't require as much effort to steer. Adding to Fred's message. When the machine is slip steered or feathered there is not a quick often uncontrolled shift of power from one side to the other. The wheels with power will continue to move at the same speed and not double their speed like on the differential drive systems. As far as preferring no springs. If that is what you prefer then that is fine, just remeber you wont have the benefti of the springs applying the braking bands so use the seperate brake while parking, trailering and starting (all of which should be done anyway). |
david berger
Senior Member
Username: Davidrrrd
Post Number: 296
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 172.145.86.27
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, March 09, 2006 - 09:47 am: | |
well i have to split hairs just a little here, this so called fetherability a t-20 has it may have at a crawl, some very low speeds you might have a narrow window of fetherable control,
but at speed this windows lost,
the t-20 doesn't really compare with Trany's that are truly fetherable at any speed such as the attex baker hill or amphicats tranys.
other than that i feel the above is accurate. |
Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max dealer
Advanced Member
Username: Fred4dot
Post Number: 143
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 216.166.168.53
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, March 09, 2006 - 11:03 am: | |
david, I don't want to argue with you about this again, but, I disagree. The speed of the machine does not matter if you have the hand control to only move the laterals (and hold them in position) a small amount. The distance the lateral moves from fully engaged to neutral is not much and when under power and going up hill, the movement of a lateral to slip steer is probably 1/2 inch or less. It is best to master this maneuver at slow speeds (especially the going downhill part), but once you can slip steer (or slip brake), it works at any speed (at least up to the speeds that 4 cycle Briggs, Kohler and Kawasaki engines propel modern Max).
You can use this technique to hold you in position while going up hill. On every demonstration I give, while going up a steep incline, I stop mid hill by slipping the tranny bands and then continue up the hill. Partial engagement of the bands is also great when you have to back down a hill because you can't get traction to climb it completely. |
Eddie Beddingfield (Unregistered Guest)
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 207.117.33.134
Rating: 
Votes: 2 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, March 09, 2006 - 02:09 pm: | |
Very interesting terminology,brake slip,featherability.slip steer. Funny how the manuals and current brochures dont mention this feature. Eddie |
Jerry R. Nuss, Max Dealer in Illinois
Senior Member
Username: Jerrynuss
Post Number: 283
Registered: 02-2005
Posted From: 71.124.14.17
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, March 09, 2006 - 09:42 pm: | |
You are right the manuals normally only go with the brake to create an angled turn or a skid change of direction, but in reality a person can do a curved turn with some practice in the Max and in the Argo. I could make a circular turn in the argo and can do it in the max now too. |
Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max dealer
Advanced Member
Username: Fred4dot
Post Number: 144
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 216.166.168.53
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, March 09, 2006 - 10:55 pm: | |
Well, Eddie, The old max owners manual on page 5 says: "Pulling back on one lever gradually disengages the three drive wheels on that side. As the lever is pulled farther back, a neutral position is passed and a gradual engagement of the brakes occurs. With one lever all the way back, the brakes on that side of the vehicle are fully applied and it will pivot in its own length."
I'd say that is pretty explicit. And it isn't something I just thought up. Maybe they don't use slip steer and slip brake or feathering, but those terms explain it well and what I am talking about is something that most max owners learn fairly quickly. The T-20 might not be as good as the older trannys, but is very effective and gets better with age. Too bad you are too stubborn to learn how to drive a T-20 - you might like it. |
Rogersmith
Intermediate Member
Username: Rogersmith
Post Number: 93
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 70.234.104.112
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, March 10, 2006 - 08:08 am: | |
Fred talking about the 1/2" of travel.. thats where it all happens, on argo too. That small area of stick control. I find myself holding the argo sticks with an open palm, using a couple fingers instead of a closed fist, to have the sensitivity to play in that 1/2".
I'm having fun in Jon's maxII when we swap rides, have about an hour or so in it. Was learning to slip steer w/ throttle.. and if I let off the throttle while doing that, the steering effect is reversed. Lots of technique to figure out. |
Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max dealer
Advanced Member
Username: Fred4dot
Post Number: 145
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 216.166.168.53
Rating:
Votes: 1 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, March 10, 2006 - 11:00 am: | |
Hi Roger, I suppose there is more to operation technique in any machine than we realize. A lot is second nature and as we learn a new thing, it goes in the data bank and we don't even pay any attention. I do get frustrated though when people imply that I make this stuff up. I just know that there have to be more than a handful of us on this board who know and appreciate the T-20 for what it is capable of; regardless of what the manual and brochures say. What is that saying? "Just do it".
How come we never hear from Jon anymore? I realize that his original handle might not fit, but he is one person who has broad enough experience now that his opinion could help a lot of people. Maybe he could be the skidsteerguru. |
Eddie Beddingfield (Unregistered Guest)
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 64.12.116.199
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, March 10, 2006 - 10:13 am: | |
Fred, I have never said I didnt like the T-20, I have had it in other ATV's before.Back when we were dealers I looked at Max ATV,But the trans is not the whole ATV.When I compared there were bushings, hollow axles,frozen cables,transmission adjustments,hard shifting,having to lift the whole body for servicing.Lastly about slip steering,with the friction modifier it is better,without it you are going to get chatter wich is not going to let you slip brake very smoothly.On a dry system maybe, but on a wet system it wants to lock up.I'm sure the factory doesnt recommend any type of feathering as this would promote brake wear,and there is not much material there to start with.Argo stresses keep steering levers against dash blockunless making turns,they dont recommend partial brake engagement for gradual rounded turns |
david berger
Senior Member
Username: Davidrrrd
Post Number: 298
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 172.148.65.29
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, March 10, 2006 - 11:11 am: | |
ok fred i did say most of your description was ok, but i guess what i mean by "at speed" is far outside what a modern stock 4 banger can do,
it seams a challenge for me to control my laterals 1/2" or less at 35-40 mph on a rough trail,
thats nearly imposable. so instead i resort to a wide range of throttle position's and neutral on one side or another to achieve smooth predictable turns,
(hopefully) this requires far more power than anemic modern 4 strokes produce.
however tim s has achieved this power/rpm level with the addition of a rev kit in his vanguard engine, and he did learn the art of throttle steering as a result,
(it is addicting)
this worked with his vanguard partly because of the high tork and a maxIV's gear range,
im not ready to try a rev kit modified vanguard in a maxII because i doubt the gear range matches the somewhat extended rpm range a vanguard can produce.
i did test drive one at Olean at the jamboree in 2005 but it still had bugs in drive train and i didn't wish to destroy the machine by pushing it to hard, hopefully mike will have some working chain tentioners at the next jamboree so i can check it out a lil more,
am i really asking too much to have a maxII that'll run with the attex's?
ooh backing down a hill i hold em forward and just blip the throttle now n then to control decent, it's smoother and safer then playing with the Tran's bands, hell thats what the clutch dose best so i use the clutch! |
Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max dealer
Advanced Member
Username: Fred4dot
Post Number: 146
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 216.166.168.53
Rating:
Votes: 3 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, March 10, 2006 - 12:59 pm: | |
Eddie, we disagree still. I still use a 1995 max IV 600T most of the time. No friction modifier and yes, a little tranny chatter sometimes, but it slip steers just fine. The argo uses brake pads to turn, of course they don't want you riding the brakes. We all know that just a little bit of slip burns them to a crisp in no time - brakes should be on or off. The T-20 is a different kind of animal more like an automatic transmission. And yes, I would say that the factory does recommend slip steering or feathering. All the advice on steering and braking is to "ease back gently".
Your T-20 and max knowledge is very limited. We would all be better off if you would talk about what you know - give us more updates on your AV-4.
David, If you can slip your laterals while descending a slope backwards, you are almost to slip steering and slip braking. Throttle steering goes hand in hand with slip steering (I don't think you can throttle steer without slip steering). My guess is that you slip steer and slip brake and don't even know it or maybe you just don't want to admit it. Go ahead, try it - while going up a hill with 1/4 to 1/3 throttle, pull the levers back just enough so that you stop forward motion. Hold yourself there, not going up or going down. Then try going up and going down keeping the throttle steady with the only variable control being your steering levers.
I don't remember how my old amphicat tranny worked and I have never used a baker hill tranny - I will take your word for it that they were smoother; but the T-20 will turn while keeping power to all six wheels (much easier to do going up than when going down) and it is controllable going downhill. If you only travel at 35 to 40 MPH, I will agree that it might be hard to keep things in hand. |
Eddie Beddingfield (Unregistered Guest)
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 64.12.116.199
Rating:
Votes: 1 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, March 11, 2006 - 08:40 am: | |
You also have limited knowledge of other products, but that dont keep you from pipeing up! |
david berger
Senior Member
Username: Davidrrrd
Post Number: 300
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 172.137.151.232
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, March 11, 2006 - 04:54 pm: | |
umm i did say i held em forward and bliped the throtle so the cluch could do the sliping/grabing stuff, did'nt i? |
Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max dealer
Advanced Member
Username: Fred4dot
Post Number: 147
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 216.166.168.53
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, March 11, 2006 - 07:01 pm: | |
David, you did say that!. I'm trying to get you to keep your throttle constant and move your laterals. I know you can do this. Slip control is not that complicated. |
david berger
Senior Member
Username: Davidrrrd
Post Number: 302
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 172.156.4.199
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, March 12, 2006 - 09:17 am: | |
aah it just ocurs to me that i have forgotten my old beast is not one who has had the GM lube mod done to its fluid.
i just had this mentle picture of awakeing one morning at Olean and finding 8 or 9 emptee GM lube bottles scatered arround my machine that anonamos doners had each added under the vail of darkness,LOL
"poor ol thing" |
John Hunter
Member
Username: Rotten
Post Number: 20
Registered: 03-2006
Posted From: 69.34.204.21
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, March 23, 2006 - 03:25 pm: | |
What is the GM lube mod? I've looked back but through the boards and cant seem to find much info on it. Some of what i do find seems to be against adding the gm fluid. It might be good to have this in the 1000 tips topic.
Thanks |
Bud Dunn
Member
Username: Budtx
Post Number: 31
Registered: 11-2005
Posted From: 167.230.104.90
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, March 23, 2006 - 05:46 pm: | |
Its a tube of friction modifier made for GM limited slip differentials. |
Missouri's Max and Argo Dealer
Advanced Member
Username: Brandon_price
Post Number: 109
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 69.27.205.40
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, March 23, 2006 - 06:35 pm: | |
You can buy the 4 ounce bottle at any auto parts store like O-Reily's. It is about $6. Just add it to 28 oz of ATF when you change the fluid in your T-20. Best mod you can do for an older trans. It drives so much smoother. |
Rogersmith
Intermediate Member
Username: Rogersmith
Post Number: 96
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 70.234.152.25
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, March 23, 2006 - 09:20 pm: | |
Had you guys heard that the GM additive originally was from Whale oil? I remember that from automotive work in the '70's. |
philip w.cox
Advanced Member
Username: Philipatmaxfour
Post Number: 133
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 216.209.98.169
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, March 24, 2006 - 10:07 pm: | |
Brandon is right but it is already in the t-20 of new Maxes when they are shipped and should be added at each t20 fluid change. If I go to Olean this year I ,m gonna bring a bottle for David so he can slip steer. W. Philip Cox Roger, that,s a whale of a story(sorry I couldn,t resist). |
Larry Wright
Intermediate Member
Username: Xljimmy
Post Number: 62
Registered: 03-2005
Posted From: 68.73.67.141
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, March 24, 2006 - 10:28 pm: | |
On my bakerhill at higher speed deceleration, I find myself pulling sticks or a stick back somewhat so to neutral and them pushing it forward creating a engine braking affect. I seem to do this on just one side and then that side steers but seems how I am holding stick forward it scares the crap out of me. I am newer to driving 6x6 but drive a bobcat fine and am fine with 6x6 at slower speeds. Just hinking maybe the new t-20 has the springs in it to stop that from happening. I am hoping I just learn to stop doing that but I dont really realize what is happening untile I am flying off coarse. I drive it fine at slower speeds it is just that higher speed engine brake affect throws me off. Almost literally. lol |
david berger
Senior Member
Username: Davidrrrd
Post Number: 309
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 172.164.83.69
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, March 25, 2006 - 03:00 pm: | |
larry with a little practice and focus you can lern to use the drag efect, just so you remember while it is working it workes oposet of under drive power, at even higher speeds this efect is inifective and it can simply be safer to just cairfuly add more power only to steer as nesesary.
thank god the bakers dont simply self energize when the brakes are aplyed,
prehaps you should just practice power and brake and leave the confusing engine brakeing for another day. |
Eddie Beddingfield (Unregistered Guest)
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 205.188.116.8
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, March 24, 2006 - 09:08 am: | |
Basicly,you add it to the trans.to make the bands slip more.The bands wont engage so harshly and therefor you may get more featherability.For the more heavier machines they used to recommend Type F,I wonder how much featherability a new light machine with Type F and no modifier would have??? |
Driving Tips and Techniques