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maxfactor

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I went for my first winter ride this year,been busy. I park my two Max IV's one in front of the other in my garage, but can't close the overhead door because the last one in sticks out two feet. Well, controls were frozen and hadn't thawed out all the way and I had left it in gear.
Cable heater almost had it defrosted, yes I started it up, when all the sudden, wouldn't you know, it shot forwards at full throttle smashing into the Max in front of it,driving it forwards until it was stopped by the workbench in front of it. I was standing next to and on the left side of the running Max which was sutck at full throttle but unable to go forward so it started to climb up and on top of the other Max as I reached in and tried to pull back on the controls, that was not helpful.
I knew that I had to get the key off but I still did not want to take my hands off the controls . I was standing next to my sixwheeler which was almost straight up and down and trying to mount the max in front of it in some sick mechanical mating ritual. My over head door was now history. My hand came off the left control and I turned the key off. This all took three seconds, maybe four tops.
I grabbed the camera and the wife and after she heaped the shame on me, and rightly so, we got them apart and then the overhead door came falling down fortunately eliminating my former problem of having a door I couldn't close when both Maxes were parked in the garage. So don't leave them in gear, people.
Then we went on to have a good ride in the snowy woods of New York.
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oldnatva

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I'm glad no one was hurt, but sorry about the overhead door. Garage remodeling is new on the list of uses for a 6x6.

Are the sticks on a Max still spring-loaded in the forward position? I remember way back in the early 70s a guy at a NATVA race(won't bring up his name) with a Bigmax was trying to get it started after it had flooded, so he had the throttle blocked open.

You guessed it- I started up in gear, wide open and sticks forward with no one at the helm. No human casualties, but a wooden fence and a couple cars in the spectator lot were never the same afterwards.
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David Keeso (Argomag)

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Maxfactor- We all know that these vehicles have their needs too, just didn't realize in quite that way!!! Good nobody was hurt- We all have our moments.
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schunn

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

This gives new meaning to the term "go anywhere vehicle". Now I'm scared to start my 6x6 up in the garage cause I would have a hard time explaining how it went ballastic and mounted my work bench.

Which brings up my next question: I would like to install an electrical interlock to prevent the operation of the starter unless the tranny was in neutral and/or a microswitch under the seat was engaged.

Any body got any ideas?

Steve
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liflod (Liflod)

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I'll trade you a new garage door for that Max that keeps getting in the way!! :)
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david berger (Davidrrrd)

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Steve dont over react to the above story, your attex dosent have the sissy springs!
it's got to be held in forward position by you to go forward,
as for the switch lets not forget some times water gets into your hull, worse it may become greasy oily water, this would spoil contacts of your wireing and micro switch, there are plenty of spots to place one to do this interlock thing but makeing it more complicated for no reason only invites problems down the road, if you already have extra wire and microswiches id sugest adding some to laterel's or lincages and controle rear lights with them, i have sean a few vehicles this has bin don on and it's a nice touch, lookes like turn signal and or brake lights in operation, not nesesary but cool!
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schunn

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I dont know if my magneto will handle the load yet, but I have some real cool clearance lights for the rear end. It wont be stop lights but if the mag will power the load, i will have some taillights people can see from behind.

Hey Dave, how much is typical charge to bore my cylinders out for larger pistons? Should I keep the overbore to a minimum or do like you should do and mike the cylinders for size?
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david berger (Davidrrrd)

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

if your asking me than id say : some small engines might be made from exotic metals wich don't take kindly to boaring out,
they some times have to be re-treated when they are board to aply a new coating of metal nice and smooth inside,
this is an expencive prosses, best to avoid this when ever posable, new rings maybe better,
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schunn

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

my pistons dont clack around in the cylinders. so maybe it is not worn terribly bad. should i jus get a new set of rings on the old pistons and cylinders?

were is good place to get rings. the ones i have scene on the internalnet have been with pistons. (snowmobile warehouse) to name one.

dave the instructions for the yellow stuff says to mix in the abs in to the can. i believe, do i have to buys some abs or did i miss sumthing?\

steve
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schunn

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

my pistons dont clack around in the cylinders. so maybe it is not worn terribly bad. should i jus get a new set of rings on the old pistons and cylinders?

were is good place to get rings. the ones i have scene on the internalnet have been with pistons. (snowmobile warehouse) to name one.

dave the instructions for the yellow stuff says to mix in the abs in to the can. i believe, do i have to buys some abs or did i miss sumthing?\

steve
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david berger (Davidrrrd)

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

THE YELOW STUFF IS THE A.B.S.
THE INSTRUCTIONS SAY TO ADD ASATONE TO 1 BAG WORTH OF THE A.B.S. IN THE CAN TO THE SAME LEVEL AS THAT BAG OF A.B.S.
OR
FILL HALF WAY WITH ASATONE AND SPRINKLE IN THE A.B.S. TILL IT'S SAME LEVEL AS ASATONE, EATHER WAY WORKS,
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barryhh3f

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I really doubt that any small engines are made of exotic metals. By using “exotic metals” the manufacture would price them selves out of business. What you may very well find is solutions like BMW used on the K series of inline engines. My Boxer (R series ) has an aluminum cylinder with steel liner. You can over bore it or replace the steel sleeve. The K series is an aluminum block with a very, very hard spray in liner that is bonded to the aluminum bore. Last I heard it can not be bored out because it is too hard a surface and too thin. It is also less expensive to make than the old style engines.
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david berger (Davidrrrd)

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

WELL THATS EXOTIC ENOPH, YOU SEE IF IT CANT BE BORED WITHOUT EXTRA EXPENCE IT'S TOO EXOTIC FOR ME, HEH, THE OLD JLO'S AND SUCH SOMETIMES HAD CROME LINEINGS AND COST A TON OF MONEY TO RESERFICE OR OVERBORE, ITS NOT WORTH THE MONEY.
IF YOU CAN DROP ALREADY BIGGER CYLINDERS IN THAT WOULD BE CHEEPER,
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schunn

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Dave Berger
Do you think my l-399-2 JLO, which was probably built between 68 and 71 has a chrome cylinder lining?

How can you tell? By visual inspection?

steve
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david berger (Davidrrrd)

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

well a snowmobile repair shop ofering boreing and or reserficing ect..ect.. could tell you,
thers likely places cloaser to you but i beleave WWW.AlsSnowmobile.com can anser that question
they are in vermont though,
it's also likely that richard clark could anser the question as jlo's were used alot in aatv's and he dose repair, and stock engines and parts
mostly curent type engines but i think he'd have jlo's too
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Attex Bob

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

How can you tell? By visual inspection?


They look .........well........chrome!!!!! Just like a bumper looks on a 56 chevy!!!! If its chrome, you just pop in a new set of rings and your good to go. No need to bore a chrome cyl unless you drove it 1000 miles in the sand without an aircleaner on it.
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schunn

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

David what do you think about upping the ignition system to electronic type?
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david berger (Davidrrrd)

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

isaac from panama has given a few people here just that kind of advice, he has fantastic luck with his, but then his was a single cyilinder modle jlo, your in the forfrount of this tech problem, sombody has to figure this out for the rest of us, heh heh heh
his ccd units come from northern catelog if my memory serves me, they are for single cylinder engines, same as your lawn mower units id guess, now i figure there are usualy 2 lighting coils for chargeing curcut so maybe one line could work as a seperat power suply for 2nd cilinder if that is the lawn mower ccd unit in a twin cilinder engines down fall, leaves only 1 line to charging curcut but havent expirements with small automotive altenaters proven sucsessfull enoph?

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