Aussie A.T.V,s

Route 6x6 Discussion Board: Lets Ride: For Groups and Clubs to talk about riding locations.: Aussie A.T.V,s
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By an aussie on Unrecorded Date: Edit

does anyone know of an aussie outlet to any atv's

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Jim Deering on Unrecorded Date: Edit

An Aussie

From another Aussie who is an Argo dealer in Victoria. Give me a call and I'll help you if I can.

Jim Deering
Wild Dog Machinery
0411 125 700

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By an aussie on Unrecorded Date: Edit

thanx mate im gettin a bit fed to me teeth with all this american crap.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Hayden the aussie that started the conversation on Unrecorded Date: Edit

do you have any plans for an easily homebuildable ATV with simplicity and cheapness in mind? im designing a small 4 wheel non-amphibious ATV using the system out of an automatic drive ride on lawnmower, one for each side.itll run on a 15 horespower vertical shaft industrial engine, diesel(iff posible,) 4 stroke.
chain drive from the engine to the two clutches and chain to the wheels. ill try to find some really low pressure tyres with heaps of tread and really thick rubber so i can drive over glass, nails and scrap metal, there being lots of that in the bush around my place near newcastle, near sydney. i am also thinking about making, instead of the first idea, a VW based ATV probably not amphibious using a volkswagen engine and gearbox driving to the middle two of six wheels with a brake on each side for skid steering. the wheels would be linked by chain, and weed all live happily ever after.
PS i always have simplicity, origionality and practicallity in the back of my mind when thinking up something like this.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By david berger (Davidrrrd) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

i have sean that volkswagone idea done already, you hit it on the head, this is the way to go as an automotive setup like this has a real electricle system more than capable of operating the fans you will need for your stearing brakes,
the one i saw had 26" good year terra tires on it,and it had wiches frount and back, hell you could have a heater and airconditioner in the cab too if you like, its a great idea, 4 fwd. speeds and reverse!

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Hayden on Unrecorded Date: Edit

hey David
do you think that that the stock VW drum brakes would be strong enough to steer a 6 wheel ATV that weighs around 700 kilograms? im not sure what that is in pounds (yes im orrstrrrraaalien!)
do you think that the VW gearbox would need to be geared down to be useful in tight places like dense (australian!) bush where youve got trees densly packed in for hundreds of kilometres in every direction. if stock drum brakes would not be good enough, that is one drum for each side, im pretty sure that wouldnt be enough, but would i need like three disks on each side or what? also would, because a diff when turned with one side stoped the other turns twice as fast, would the engine take it if one side was fully locked up?

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Eugene Kochnieff on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Hayden,
Hi my guess the veedub will need extra reduction mainly for control but i would go for an auto transmission from a kombi ( kombi's have lower diff ratios) the auto would give you extra torque down low. You can get some further reduction with the chain drive 2:1 is practical and probably all you need as it would reduce the top speed from aprox 120 Kph to 60 Kph a very good all around solution. The chains and sprockets will need to be quite heavy if you want them to last though.

Re the brakes, go for 2 inboard discs , i agree you will probably need fans though.

Good luck

Eugene.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Hayden on Unrecorded Date: Edit

does anyone think that motorbike chains would do the job? or would it take thicker stronger chains like the duplex chains or triplex chains(triple thickness).

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Eugene Kochnieff. on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Hayden,

I would go with duplex chains at least as big as on the larger road bikes. If you go to Fenner power transmission they have design books that can tell you your options, all they need to know is the max Hp and at what Rpm (the rpm is on the drive srocket shaft not the crankshaft).

The figures they give you are very conservative and you need to consider duty cycle and shock loading, I guess duty cycle will be less than 20% and the shock will be quite low compared to an industrial machine due to the balloon tyres. So you may be able to go for a lighter chain than they recommend.

good luck Eugene.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By david berger (Davidrrrd) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

oops, i responded to haydens question @ 9/11/01
4:57 am but sent it back to richard clark instead of posting it, sorry, others have anserd the same as i did for the most part, what with gear reduction an all, (easy to fabricate with cairfuly selected sprocets and chain)

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By ISAAC EISENMAN (Tropicjungleboy) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

some basics element for that "chip" aatv:

* ANY "front wheel drive" engine with automatic transaxle ( included allready the front disc brakes and high amp alternator plus electric remote drive water/tranny heat exchange)...i will "pass" on the vw engine due to hot air inside aatv unless also design an efficient hot air duct...vw engine direct hot air downdraft so this request high center of gravity engine instalation to get space for the hot air duct....

* two hydraulic master cylinder ( one for each disc brake calipper)

* two easy "bolt on" adapter with at least ansi 60 chain sprocker (this adapter to be secured on brake disc in replacement of previous wheel)

* square tube ( 2 x 2 x1/8) for frame

* 1 1/2 solid axles ( hubs to match your wheel/tire supply) nice if you can adapt 12.50 x 33 x 15 tires...easy to find 8-10 inches wide rims and 6 ply rating tires

* 1 1/2 pillow block bearing ( inner)

* 1 1/2 lateral block bearing (outside)

* fiberglass math and resin ( to built up the body shape)

* 6) same diameter type "b" sprocker but half diameter of the 2 selected for the disc brake adapter ( to obtain 2:1 reduction factor)

* enough chain to link all sprockers......


enjoy bouncing!!!

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Hayden on Unrecorded Date: Edit

i was thinking more along the lines of a dune buggy type non amphibious atv without much if any fibreglassing, a rollcage (only 1 possibly two rollbars), my budget is under $1000 but i have access to plenty of equipment for metal working, plenty of cheap vw parts(my brother has a vw dune buggy, beetle and an old Kombi and plenty of parts lying around our shed.) I think there maybe a possibility of me completing it. all i really need is wheels, metal for the frame engine and gearbox.
does anyone think that it may be to hard to drive considering that I'll have to be steering with two hands, but sometime or another I'll have to take one hand off the sticks to change gears, when driving through bush this may be tricky. (Ive never driven a skid steering vehicle before.)
as for the engine cooling i'm not sure what i should do considering that it'll probably partially enclosed in bash guards with the floor pan below it. would i have to have extra fans blowing over the cylinder heads?

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By hayden on Unrecorded Date: Edit

ps is there any way that i could semi-waterproof the engine so i could drive through a foot or two of water without wrecking anything? i dont mind wet feet. the engine will be a foot and a bit off the ground but probably will have water (fresh) washing over it. i'd prefer to keep it simple as ive got limited expirience with most metal/fibreglass working.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By david berger (Davidrrrd) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

well hayden first thing too waterproof is your carb! seal it good and have duct work take the air from a point well abouve the water leavel you expect too drive threw,
i did this in my max and i have the air cleener set up for an updraft too!
to make it even more dificult for water penitration,

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By ISAAC EISENMAN (Tropicjungleboy) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

don't forget to "dress" some silicon between distribuitor and distribuitor cap....also over coil's connections..the idea is to keep those electrical parts dry from splash...direct drive isn't the best choice for this kind of aplication...try to find an hydrostatic tranny (automatic!!)..that way you don't need to "shift" gears or apply foot on clutch while bouncing


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