By flyvee on Unrecorded Date: Edit

i have what i think is a 70s model argo ..i was just wondering where i can look to find out for sure what the make and model is...also does any one know what kind of motor these things had.or what kind of briggs motor i can buy to replace the old one? any help would be aprecciated

By pete6x6 on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Flyvee,

If you call Argo with the serial number and model number they should be able to tell you.

By Mike Koscinski (Rem721) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I have a chance to buy an older Argo with a Kohler 2 cycle 440cc. It could be an early 70's model. It has welded sprockets.It starts hard when cold and needs a shot of spray to get going.It seems to start okay when the engine has warmed. The wireing, battery and two main chains are new. When stopped and until the engine idles down to a lower rpm, there is a grinding when it is shifted high to low.It may have the wrong belt on the clutch because it's marked Kawasaki. The orginal paint is pretty weathered and faded and it needs a little cosmetic repair where a windshield would attach. It has new Goodyear Rawhide Terra tires 21x11-8 tires on new wheels. It has machine shop made wheel adaptors to fit the 5 hole wheels. Other than that, it appears to be stock except for a flex pipe running between the engine and the cannister muffler. Can anyone offer any advice on this 6x6 to me and tell me if it's worth $1200.

By david berger (Davidrrrd) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

it shure is if it runs and drives,
it's a good find as 2-cycles have plenty of power and argo's need plenty of power,
power to through around and show off with!!
you know you cant bye that new! the new ones are only powerd by enemic 4 strokes, so get a power house for the thrills now while you have the chance as there HARD to come by,
david

By L. A. Philip Osborn (Roadwolf) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

listen koscinski, you made a mistake on not asking that cute girl to lunch a while back, don't make tha same mistake again!
seriously if you can get a 6x6 runnin fer under 1500$, ya can't really go that far wrong.
argo has been around for a while and there are tons of parts around.
honestly, were can you get dollar for dollar sumthing to match up to a aatv six wheeler?
remember real men drive aatv's.
you definately should have known!

By rem721 on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I appreciate all of the response to my post both on and off the board. Thanks to all those that replied.

By Dobbin on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I need to know where to find parts to rebuild the brake mastercylinders for an early model Scrambler. I would greatly appreciate it.

By Samuel C Harbin Sr. on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Iam looking to purchase a older ARGO 6x6 or 8x8. I live in mid Michigan, and work at a ARGO dealership as a mechanic.It could be running or not running. Its for a ground up restoration.
Any help would be great.

By daveyoder on Unrecorded Date: Edit

does anybody have horizal briggs20 horse motor i am looking for one for a 1968 argo 6x6 if do please email a dave yoder hotmail.com for only
$ 120 if so thank everyone your friend dave y

By daveyoder on Unrecorded Date: Edit

does anybody have horizal briggs20 horse motor i am looking for one for a 1968 argo 6x6 if do please email a dave yoder hotmail.com for only
$ 120 if so thank everyone your friend dave y

By Terry Simpson on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I just bought a 1974 argo six wheeler. The trans is low on oil, what oil does it take?

By pete6x6 on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Terry,

PeteC should know check out his webpage.

By 80w gear lube on Unrecorded Date: Edit

80w gear lube

By David A. Zimmerman (Zimco) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Can anyone help me??? I have an older ARGO 6X

I have no idea what year it is.

I am told the chaparrel engine is not original.

There is a number on the top of the transmission
#2965G

I need repair & parts manuals for this.

By argogeru on Unrecorded Date: Edit

David,
That is not the original engine. Contact your local dealer or call the factory with the serial number of the machine not the transmission. It should be on the firewall or the dash. they will be able to tell you the year and get you a manual.

By David A. Zimmerman (Zimco) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I am told this is a 73-74 ARGO

I can't find any numbers on the body.

I am told the chaparrel engine is not original.

There is a number on the top of the transmission
#2965G

I need repair & parts manuals for this.

I will accept originals or copies of parts and shop manuals, also parts and parts vehicles.

Local dealers don't have manuals for older ARGOS.

email - zimco@rochester.rr.com

By Rob Coleman on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Can anyone help me?

I'm based in the U.K. and have acquired
an old Argo. The number on the chassis
is KB5501 and it has a 2 cylinder engine.

Apart from that, there are no other
identifying features! How do I establish
which model it is and obtain parts?

Also, any ideas of how easy it is to
obtain a service manual and parts?

Many thanks.

By David Keeso (Argomag) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Send me a picture and I can tell you. djhkeeso@rogers.com is my e-mail. I bet it a magnum though

By roadwolf on Unrecorded Date: Edit

is it a 2 stroke or a 4 ?

By liflod (Liflod) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Check the Argo web site. They have manuals available for download. Why hasn't RI thought about it?

By David A. Zimmerman (Zimco) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

2 Stroke engine

By David Keeso (Argomag) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Go to the argo site. Look for the history section and their is a picture of an argo identical to the one in your profile. Do you have any other pics?

By roadwolf on Unrecorded Date: Edit

zimmerman, walsh argo site off the links, history - said argo's went 4 stroke after 75. dave keeso might be able to help you with the exact model. don't worry about parts. most 6x6 componets are all generic, any thing else you can weld, mill or file, juss ask david b tha 3rrrrddddddd.

By Gene Hacker on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I have a 1980 Argo 8x8 TB model...I know it has the Tucumseh 16hp motor. To pick the right manual for the Tucumseh motor I need to figure out what model motor this is. I looked all over the motor the only thing I found was a 16 stamped on the motor.

By David Keeso (Argomag) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I have an old manual with the tecumseh engine in it. DO you have a picture of your machine and I'll confirm it.

ZIMCO, send me a picture of your argo and I should be able to tell you what model it was. The e-mail address in my profile is insanecrash@hotmail.com-- THAT IS THE WRONG ONE. I can't get rid of it but the real one is djhkeeso@rogers.com

By T. Martin on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I just purchased an Argo prolly 70ish. The Koehler Two stroke has been replaced with a 440cc Cuyhuna from an Ultralight or snowmobile. It runs like a screamin monkey.
The body is rough, does anyone know what a replacement shell would cost?
Thanks
Terry

By tractorman70 on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Hey
I just came across a Sperry Rand Wedge 245 at a tractor swap meet yesterday. It looks like new the old guy I got it from had it stored for many years Can anyone tell me what its worth?

Thanks
Rick

By HELLONSIXWHEELS on Unrecorded Date: Edit

post some pictures so we can all see it.there are
not many wedges out there,if there are then they arent surfacing.i have heard that the production
numbers for them was very low,anyone have an idea
of how many?i would have to say value would really
depend on overall condition.if it truly looks new
it should be in the thousands i would assume.

By Arlie on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Tractorman70, does that Wedge have the jet pump option for water travel? The jet pump was an option that wasn't on alot of those. How about a roll bar? It was also an option I believe.
If you decide to sell, how about e-mailing me directly with a price and/or info? I posted a Sperry Wedge want-ad a few months ago, but no replies. Was that Wedge in running shape when it was stored away? Any idea when it was last running?

By Alan Burgess on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I have an 1983 argo 6 wheeler. It has a 16 hp
tecumseh {OH160}.It has quite a loud noise in it.
I would to a new engine for it , what would any body suggest that I use and what kind of upgrade would I have to do to make it work? Thanks for any help that I can get.
Alan Burgess,Quispamsis, NB, Can

By Michael Schiedel-Webb (Mswebb) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I am considering the purchase of a '79 Argo and have a few questions...

1. Do the older vehicles support winches?

2. What is a good source in Toronto Canada area for parts/accessories?

3. Do the older vehicles work with the current track systems on the market? We need it for winter use mostly.

4. This vehicle has a 440cc, 28HP engine. I am assuming from info posted here that this is a 2-cycle engine. Does 2-cycle mean 2-stroke? Does this mean mixed fuel?

thanks all,
Michael Schiedel-Webb, argo newbie

By david berger (Davidrrrd) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

yup its a 2 stroke 440cc engines comonly put out 38hp
fule aint what it used to be, 2 strok oil ether for that matter,
seller should be able too fill in the blanks on best oil's and mix ect..ect..
most peopl agree that with enoph power an argo will work best, the new ones are cronicly under powered, you have a good find there.

By David Keeso (Argomag) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Michael, yes they support winches- I think all did- I can't tell you for sure, but their is a dealer in etobicoke that could get parts- I have been there once. It is located in the back of a car dealership and has a secondary section in the back called Summerset Yamaha. They are on weston road I believe. My ARGO is somewhere around 89-91 and the tracks my dad had from his first argo, still are used on the machine today. I don't know if they changed their tracks yet, but they should work as long as they are not super tracks. I can't tell you about the engine, but I know that any hp over 20 will help you out a lot if you are running tracks. Tracks suck the hell out of the power and slow you down a lot- SUpertracks would be even worse. I don't know if this means anything, but the kawasaki engine they use in the Conquest had 600 odd cc and the one you are describing has 440 cc. I don't know if this means much but 600 cc in a 20 HP engine and a 28 Hp with 440 cc. I don't have the slightest clue what cc means but it might be something to consider.

By Michael Schiedel-Webb (Mswebb) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I always thought that cc's were the cubic centimetres of displacement. It is a measurement of how large an engine is but does not give any true clues as to it's performance or power. Feel free to flame me if I'm mistaken.

Thanks for the feedback. I'm going to have a mechanic check the engine for soundness and if all goes well, I'll be an Argo owner.

By David Keeso (Argomag) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Im not flaming you. I don't have the slighest clue as I said about what the cc is of an engine. I just know that a 28 hp engine will be a hell of a lot better than lets say an 18 hp engine that is used in the models today. With tracks, the ARGO moves a lot slower and doesn't have the same amount of power for other things. At full throttle, in deep snow, even just tapping the brake will kill all the power and then it takes a ton of time to get back to the speed you were at before. IF you are trying to turn the vehicle in snow, it takes almost full throttle just to move half way around. Unless you are on a flat road covered in hard packed snow or ice and you jam on the brake (this will throw you into an insane slide out that will allow you to to double turns) you have to almost release the brake, let it get some speed and then brake again. It can be frustrating if you are used to driving without tracks. Everything is slower, and in some cases, you don't have the traction you need. The advantage of running tracks (standard or super) is to keep you up in the snow. In deep snow, you still drive through it, but you are almost skidding along the surface. WHen you actually think about it, its hard to belive that the tracks actually pull you through the snow when the bottom of the vehicle is so flat that one would think it would just high center. In some cases, such as going up a steep hill, you can't always make it up the hill on the first try, you may have to run up and down a few times to pack the snow down a bit and get the snow that is in the middle (between the tracks) to pack down as well and still may require a running start to get up.

I'll add later, but more power is definatly better when you are using tracks. Make sure your charging system is up to snuff though of you will start to have other problems. I'll comment on this in another post.

By Michael Schiedel-Webb (Mswebb) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Thanks again and please keep the posts coming. I'm a total newbie and can use all the info I can get. Can anyone tell me if my cc assumption is correct?

By Kevin Percy on Unrecorded Date: Edit

The "cc" of an engine is the displacement of the engine, some people use it to judge "how big" the engine is , others compare Horse Power. As previously mentioned displacement does not always give an indication of power ouput ie., HP. A smaller cc engine can develop as much or more HP than a larger cc engine, depending on how they are designed. Besides looking at HP you have also to look at where the engine develops that power, and if it suits your driving style. Usually (now correct me if I am wrong here anybody) a 2 stroke makes its power at higher RPM than a 4 stroke, so if you want to pull moose out of the bush every fall, a 20hp 2 -stroke that needs to rev near full throttle to make its power might not be as good for you as a 16 hp 4-stroke that makes its peak hp at half throttle.

BTW if my memory is correct my high school Auto Class defined displacement as "the difference in the volume of the cylinder(s) of an engine between when the piston is at bottom dead center, and top dead center" - or - if you put the piston at the bottom of its stroke and filled the cylinder with liquid, and then moved the piston to the top of its stroke, how much liquid would spill out, usually measured in Cubic Centimeters, Liters, or Cubic Inches.

Just my $0.02, differing opinions welcomed.

Kevin

By davidrrd on Unrecorded Date: Edit

i agree but this is not a 20 hp 2 stroke, it probly still makes over 16 hp at the lower speeds,
the 38 hp it likely makes at top end may or may notever come in handy but it's a big enoph powerplant too still have more juce than that 4 stroke even at the 4 stroke powerband range,
now if yah stuff a biger 4 stroke in there you would realy have something,
im shur of this cause i went over to all 440's years ago, 4 strokes havent impressed me much till just lately, tim schotanus(mudbuster) has a 23hp briggs with a rev kit in it and a by-passed govener too,
we think it's realy pushing about 35hp, that thing has all the ball's of a 4 stroke and reves like a 2 stroke, it's damm wild

By David Keeso (Argomag) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

In addition to my previous post above, if made a comment on the charging system with tracks. Personally I believe (I could be wrong)that when you are running tracks, the ARGO does not get to full throttle although you may have it wide opened. If you are running your winch, lights, or any other accessories, you are running your battery down. If you are using tracks, the engine is working as hard as it can (with the throttle opened) and because of the resistance of tracks, the engine does not sound like it is running properly. If it not running as fast as it usually would, in my opinion, it does not charge as fast, and could mean that you have to run longer to charge back up again. I could be very worng, and I would appreciate any imput on this.

By david berger (Davidrrrd) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

its not perfict but my old 2 stroke rule was aprox 11 cc's per hp

By Michael Schiedel-Webb (Mswebb) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Well, I've done it. I bought a used Argo. It does not have the original engine but a somewhat newer Bombardier 2 stroke engine. 440cc, 28HP.

2 questions...

1. There is lots of smoke when I get it started. Is this indicative of anything particular? What can I do about it?

2. I have no way of knowing how many hours are on the engine as the Argo's original meter is not connected and may not function at all. Where would I get a new one so that I can monitor engine use for maintenance?

Thanks in advance. I'm sure I'll have lots more questions. I'm not only new to Argo's, I'm new to the whole engine maintenance/mechanical scene.

Michael

By David Keeso (Argomag) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Almost any engine supplier or even an automotive store may have one. You can also order one from an ARGO dealer or at ODG.

By david berger (Davidrrrd) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

yah 2-strokes smoke like that, you can try difernt oils and diferent mixes till you like the smoke leavle but get used too killing mosquitos!
the manufacturers mix is way out of date, they don't make gass like they used too and 2-stroke oil ether for that matter!
you can get realy good oils now that will give you the best preformance from your 440 with mideum grade gas and a 45/1 or some @ 50/1 mix!
try not too use high test gas as it has too much deturgent in it for automotive fule injectors and will ruin a 2-stroke wich totaly relys on oil to stick to things for cooling and luberication too!

By Scott Lents (Boofniff) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Hello all
well I fed it and it followed me home...thats the story I gave the wife and I'm sticking to it.
I cant figure out yet how to post a pic but I need info help. by my guess its a 71-74 argo,
motor is a kohler 440
spec#42465
serial# 602903(this of off the engine tag)
I cant find any other tags, might have been one on the tranny in days past but no more.
Its green if that helps
I have a pic if you email me I will send it to you.
so far for purchase I am going to hunt down a shop manual if such critters still exist.
Mechanically it all seems sound, cant get the flywheel off yet to check the stator,points,condensers but the rest of the electrical sys is a real mess, so if any body has a wiring diagram they could shoot my way, I would be one grateful reprobate.
boofniff@texas.net

By Dean on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I have a 1980 tb Argo 8 wheeler,can somebody tell me what size double row primary drive chain is,and what secondary chains were for this year ,the ones I got with it in a bucket,are unreadable,Mr.rust got em.Newer manual on line,shows single row to be RC-60,and double row to be RC50-20.My chains aren't that big,I think my single row drive chains are #50,and double row chains smaller than that,and how many links are required for primary,& secondary chains?Plus does anybody know a wholesaler that sells it by the roll,and carries primary double row chains,of course decent quality,and were these babies Standard,or metric on drivetrain parts?Haven't really tied into that part yet,just rewired engine compartment & 16ohv tecumseh,and got it running,now on to neglected drive train.Any help would be appreciated
P.S. Is factory manual for that year & service tape worth the $80?

By Dean on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Got a 1980 Argo Tb 8 Wheeler,asked about chains in my last post,forgot to ask about adjusters. Mines got little nylon sprockets on L's attached to sliding bracket,can I upgrade to newer style self adjusting pads without to much difficulty,or does somebody know a source where I can buy new ones like I have at a reasonable price?Must say I'm partial to self adjusting feature.Thanks for any help.

By David Keeso (Argomag) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Dean, if you send me a picture, I could likely tell you, but I don't remember off hand what that model looked like. Most used the rc50 chain for the main drives, new ones are using a smaller chain but I don't know why. I think the double are better, but thats just my opinion. What are the adjusters like on yours. Do they have a spring holding two pieced on the chain and pinching them together? They should be replacable to a new system, but the adjusters havn't changed much from what I have been told but don't quote me on that. Send me a pic or e-mail at djhkeeso@rogers.com and put the subject as ARGO- I have been getting a lot of spam and ARGO will jump out and not get deleted.

By Pete Nicolazzi on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Dean, saw your post re: chains. We have an '86 Argo, 8x8 IC. We found (the hard way) the right chains at the local farm implement dealer. (WE took our broken cahin in with us) By the foot, same stuff, cheaper than an Argo dealer
just an FYI for you

By Ron Campbell (Rambo12_99) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Hi
Have a problem
I hit a rock and broke the front flange on my
90 magnum. The front right wheel & axle came off.
Question?? Is there only 2 set screws holding the
axle on?? How do I change the flange & replace the axle?
PS I need the book/mechanics for dummies.

By david berger (Davidrrrd) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

RON CAMBLE, ODG HAS VIDEO TAPES FOR REPAIR GUIDS,
I THINK IF YOU CONTACT YOUR DEALER YOU MIGHT BE ABLE TO GET ONE,ALSO ASK FOR A PARTS LIST

By ACR on Unrecorded Date: Edit

more on argo chains,Ihave a 1981 argo single speed trans it also has rollpins for sprockets/axles the drive chain is #50 double roller. My neighbour's argo is quite a bit newer and has two sp. trans. drive chains are single roller. Am I turning twice as much chain as I need to?That little tecumseh needs all the help it can get. Iwas woundering if anyone had converted one of these older machines? Will less friction be out weighted in broken drive chaines?

By Attex Bob on Unrecorded Date: Edit

ACR I will give you my 2 cents on this subject. People will disagree with me on this I'm sure!!!!

I have an 82 8X8 with a two speed and single row #50 chain. I have never broke a chain on it. Some people complain about how weak a single row #50 chain is. Here is what I have to say to those people.

I had a Suzuki 1100 with about 110 HP and it had a #50 chain on it. The thing weighed about 900 lbs with me on it. I would wind the thing up and dump the clutch at about 4K. The thing would wheelee up so almost 110 HP was being used and transfered through the chain. I never broke that chain either.

I think my Suzuki was putting out a tad more HP than your Tecumseh!!!! So to make a long story short. A single #50 would be fine as long as it is "GOOD CHAIN". Someone must have converted it to a double roller in the past because the only time I have seen that was on a new machine.

You might just trade your neighbor!!!!!!! Or put a bigger engine in it to max out your double roller!!!!

All in all I don't think you would gain much by going to a single roller. But I know what you mean about the power of the tecumseh. They are not exactly the big blocks of the AATV world!!!!

By Dan C on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Hi Guys,Does any one know of a place in B.C.Canada that sells double 50 chain
I just got a price of $9.00 per ft ,at that price I think it will cost me $500.00 to change out my chains and they need to be done in a big way
Thanks Dan

By David Keeso (Argomag) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Dan, The best way to get those chains is to just bite the bullett and buy them directly from ODG. They are cheeper in other places but are very uncommonly used. the single rc 50 is easy to get but I spent about 4 hours yesterday trying to just find a place that could order me RC double 50. What ARGO do you have? Its likely an older one though right? I feel your pain with the $$ side of it. I have to do mine despritly and my only option now is to swap all the chains. I killed my last one this week at the cottage and I can barely keep the ARGO running in a straight line. Left brake is now gone from steering corrections. Let me know if you find anything. Some hardware stores can actually order the chains but I don't know if its easy or not. YOu may try True value, Home Hardware, Ace Hardware or one of those co-op farm equipment and supply places- Don't know what you have in B.C. but in Ontario, its very hard to get unless you just get it from ODG

By Larry Houghton on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Dan: Did you try a bearing supply store? If you have one reasonably close they will have or be able to get it for you.One other place is a farm eq.dealership but could be expensive.I usualy just go to my bearing supply shop and get it. Also you could try Princess Auto. Just check where the chain is made.

By DanC on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Thanks guys I found a Lordco auto parts store that had two 10'sections in stalk and they can get more any time and it was $7.25 per ft and it's not made in China.
The Argo dealer near me wanted about $85.00 per chain for the 4 long ones so this was a great deal
My argo is an 83 and I just did a complete rebuild on it,thats why I was trying to get the best deal on the chains I could,wife says I spent way to much money on it,but how can you put a price on fun? lol lol
Dan

By markcooper on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Everyone who has Argo operation experience. I just purchased a 1993 Argo, verified it with Argo as a 1993. It has a 16hp Vangaurd engine which I just sent to Briggs&Stratton service because I thought it had a blown head gasket, I was wrong. It had a bent valve stem. So I had them replace it, do a normal service job, $147 well spent. While I had the time and the opportunity, I torn down to the frame this Argo. Yep, at this moment, the transmission is on my garage floor, seperated from the frame mount with holds the transmission, the engine and the braking/steering system. I took all the chains off, cleaning them, soaking them and then will reaply some chain lube for 24 hours. I will order from Argo the braking/steering system kit.

My question is about my transmission, when I first got it, while it was running, as I would change into the different gears, a little grinding sound would occur. Since, I have become more and more educated with the adjustment procedure(s) which Argo publish, I recognized that the idlers were way out of adjustment, like 9 mm in stead of 3mm. This item would mean that the angle for the transmission was too high, tilted and could have contributed to improper drive tension between the drive Cam and the Power Cam. If the transmission is not leaking, what other signs could be inspected or created to determine if internal damage exist?
2) The previous owner obviously had the chain in standing water, the chains show surface rust. I have removed all chains, sprayed a penatrating lubricate and cleaner. After wire brushing them I plan on using a 24 hours chain specific lubricate, is that as good as I can do beside purchasing all new chains?
3) I found that one side of each set of brake pads were badly worn, Richard Clark, of this website has described that most Argo users do not adjust the braking/steering system correctly and this will cause the brake pads, the steering and the braking to just get worse over time. I feel if this is the fact then Argo must share some of the responsibility for not providing better owner training in the maintaining, the adjustments and the long term owner's responsibility.
So far I have not heard, seen or witnessed anyone who can tell me that they have been instructed by Argo in anything.
Argo the company, just assumes for everyone to be master mechanics, to just inherit this nature ability to acquire the skills to maintain our Argo. I personally want to have Argo address this issue and make nation wide, close to owner's major cities, training for the major maintenance and adjustments which are important to keeping an Argo in good working order.
While, I know, that many owner's reserve the right to just use and abuse their Argo as toy, do not want to maintain them and just want to run them into the ground, for those of you, that is your right! I wish all of you that freedom.
As for me I prefer to be the type of owner which knows ultimately this is a mechanical machine, which "Requires" "Preventative Maintenance" scheduled and recorded.
I hope those of you who wear your machines out, tear them down to the point that they do not run, can not be sold running will give me a call, so I can purchase them for $1500-$2000. Argo's make good restoration projects for those of us who are willing to get dirty, turn many tools and take the necessary steps to bring them back from "Abuse!"
I would like to start (NAOA) National Argo Owner's ASSociation, with the power of unity, we can get more attention from Argo as a company!
Please feel free to contact me at
marksman954@aol.com or write to me at
Mark G Cooper
1712 E Francisco Drive
Phoenix, AZ 85042 or call me
602-323-0777

By Eddie Beddingfield on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Mark, I have a completely restored Argo SS for only 2000.00 ,want to buy it?? Eddie. P.S.the brakes have been already set to the Argo 670 manual,that is still available, they also have service tapes that are very good also.

By Jon Hoath on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Hey mark,
Odg sells maintenence manuals and videos for those who chose to do the work themselves. You can find the closest dealer to you by going to www.argoatv.com. This is how they show owners how to do the work themselves.

By David Keeso (Argomag) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Mark, the dealers can show you how to do the work most the time. When mine goes in for work im going to stay there and learn how to do everything so I don't have to go through the dealer. The dealer closest to me up north is only 15 minutes away and is a friend so that shouldn't be a problem. I think AROG started making service or maintenece videos that the dealers should be able to get and if not, order from ODG directly, they also sell engine service manuals and videos last I heard. Hopefully this helps some.

By Justin on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I recently bought an 82 argo and I've been having trouble with the clutch. It is a 16 Hp tecumseh motor with a 1 inch bore and quater inch keyway. Was wondering if anyone could help me find a replacement either new or used. Or will by complete motor and clutch, if necessary for a newer model.

By Masteratver on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Justin

Call Richard Clark 812-944-1643 he has those clutchs
for your agro, where do you live, you may want to go on
some of our rides

Sam Preston

By Mark Cooper on Unrecorded Date: Edit

For those faithful readers which read my lengthy email on March 26. Today, March 31, I finished the rebuild. I drove the Argo after all my hard work and the parts which I ordered through Yuba City, Ca, an Argo dealership. Let me say up front, that the dealership, charge me full price for a Brake Kit which was missing parts and those parts were important. I know now everything about the Argo have torn down to the frame. I rebuilt everything, I installed the brakes three times and it is good I did. By doing so I learned everything about them. Since an Argo steers and brakes with the same mechanism, the parts missing from the Argo Brake kit were exactly those parts related to the Argo brake system which had previously worn out. I have had to make due, but for those of you which know the Argo, there is essentially two adjustments for the brake pads moving in and out via the operator using the levers. There is the course adjustments which consists of the forward tension which is applied from the lever being pulled back by the operator and the cam element twisting over two ball bearings which in turns flexes the brake pads closer to the Brake disc. Then there is the fine adjustment which is done just next to the lever, by a screw being tighten to lessen the movement of the lever in relationship to making the clamping of the pads take place against the brake disc. These fine adjustment screw, bolts and linkage is what the Argo dealer in Yuma City, Ca shorted me. Those same elements are worn out on my unit. The dealer which incidently told me that he would not have paid more than $1400 for the unit I paid $2700, is the same dealer which shorted my parts from my paid in full brake kit. This dealer's name is Tom, his idea is that knowing the Argo, from the mechanical side, how to fix, how to keep them running and how to instruct the owners, is not a priority. In fact, his quote to me was "The best selling dealership has less than four hours driving an Argo! You dont need to know an Argo to sell them!"
Well, where I come from people are alot smarter than that. They want to know that the person selling them the equipment is an expert, knows the equipment and can fix at a minimum 85% of all problems. I can now but the jury is still out as to Argo, the product and the quality long term.
So far the unit is holding up after ten years, who ever had this Argo, treated it as a toy and did little maintenance.
I will tomorrow find out on my land, 120 acres of Arizona land, if this Argo is great or just So So.
One last item, I have what would be considered Rawhide tires. I was told that these tire would cause problems. I inflated them all the same today and from the initial exercise they worked well. I need tires to perform in and on rock. The Run A Muck tires look to wimpy. I have little water if any, I need tough tires and good strong tread. I will give more information tomorrow night after a day at the Arizona off road. If the Argo can be adapted for Arizona then Argo can conquer an new territory. We will see!

By Mark G Cooper on Unrecorded Date: Edit

The continuing saga of an Argo's path to Arizona. Recently, I was told that the tires on my Argo were in the wrong direction, while the tread was rotating forward. The manufacture's arrow indicated this as well. Well, lucky for me I had experienced them climbing rocks prior to correcting the tread rotation. I was told that correcting the rotation would improve the climbing ability. WRONG! I found just the opposite, the Argo, climbed three to four better with the tread direction opposite from what the manufacturer's arrow would indicate. Looking at the Bigfoot Rawhide tread and the direction it would travel while under operation in a forward direction, my treads look now the same.
As for the Vanguard brakes, I have found that it is far better to make them sensitive to clamping and steering then to make them not be as close to the brake disc. I also have found that the use of a spring, then a washer, then the steering pin plate, then another washer greatly enhances the linkage's ability to actuate the braking/steering mechanical operation.
I tried the tracks on my mountain, against the rocks, boulders and soft ground. Well, they held up to the abuse of rocks but to be effective for traction, I am preparing a modification for every other track, using old tread from steel belted tires to both enhance traction and protect the hard plastic track. The hard plastic track needs help, alot of help digging into the surface when climbing the hill. Coming down, we were sliding alot and were not able to gain alot of control.
I think that hard tough tires will do better and I have modified the walking path I built by hand, hard work and lots of muscle, to be wide enough for the Argo.
As for the incline fuel supply problem, Argo has told me that the vacuum pump fuel pump the B&S motor has can not deal with the gavity of the incline very well. The inherit slow fuel supply provided by the vacuum pump is just a B&S problem which in the new Avenger Argo, the problem has been solved by an excellerator type fuel pump.
The one outstanding problem which will need to be improved on is the way the throttle is used.
Due to it, the throttle, being a function of twisting the right hand while using the right lever for braking/steering, I think I will install a thumb throttle contol so that twisting while pulling back to brake or steering is not a continual problem.
Well, as usual, I have written a novel but all in all the Argo's evolution for me to use it is still changing. One last thing, I am 6'6" so in order to make all the leg room I could, I have used a pipe bender to bend the back rest back.
Would anyone know where I can purchase just the windshield aluminum extrusion, on one side my previous owner damaged it pretty bad, usable but still I would like to put it right if possible!
Mark Cooper, Phoenix, Az

By Waibel on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Am in need of a cam for my Tecumseh model OH160 170089A engine. Any suggestions? Portland, Oregon

By Ted Barrington (205.251.185.107) on Wednesday, January 12, 2005 - 09:35 pm: Edit

I am thinking about buying an 83 8x8 argo with a
tecumseh engine for 1000 bucks.What do you think?
What do I look for?

By David Keeso (Argomag) (170.224.224.153) on Thursday, January 13, 2005 - 12:56 pm: Edit

one that old, look especially at engine condition, hours put on it, service history etc. also, look at chains, bearings, brakes, etc. Make sure all wiring is adequate, no worn out wires etc.

By ACR (208.181.162.93) on Friday, January 14, 2005 - 12:08 am: Edit

Waibel:tecumseh engine parts available from Precise Engine Repairs www.perr.com Or151 roberts rd. Yakima WA 98908 They seem to have agood deal of stuff I will be purchasing a repair manual and parts soon hope this helps.