By Bill Davis (Nvbigblue) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Hello,
As I had already planned to exchange the engine in my MAX II (JLO 292cc to B&S 18hp). I thought it would be a good time to go through the entire machine and replace whatever needed replacing. I've stripped it down and removed the frame from the lower tub to fix a couple of broken welds and have come across a couple of things.
1. The bushings in the ends of the axles are pretty worn out. I was planning on replacing them with new bushings, but would it be better to replace them with actual bearings?
2. It still has the original one-piece wheel/tires on it. I am planning on making adapters for new rims. I notice that most machines seem to have 5 lug rims on them. Is there any reason I can't use a 4 lug ATV wheels instead? (I already have a bunch of them!)
3. At some point I may put tracks on the machine. I have been told that since it has bushings in the axles this might not be such a good idea. However, I was thinking that I could fabricate new solid axles / hub flanges / and replace the bushing with bearings. Is it worth it? The tracks will be strictly for snow. If so, any suggestions on the outer bearings? Are they heavy enough for tracks?
4. Has anyone else thought about making the laterals movable? That is, have two sets of control points for them. That way you could "plug" them into the center points when you're by yourself, or "plug" them into the other set (off-set on the left or right) when riding double.
5. Any thoughts about replacing the small drum brakes with small discs?
6. Is there a supplier out there for the one-piece axle bearing/flanges? Although mine are pretty tight, just in case.
7. What is the best exhaust system routing for the B&S? I'm using a flat twin I/C engine and the exhaust manifold comes together at the top rear of the engine.
8. Anyone else thought about replacing the chain tensioners with an ajustable roller gear type tensioner, simliar to what's on a quad?

In short, I guess what I'm asking is: Should I do a bunch of modifying and upgrading on the drivetrain or should I just replace the worn items and return it to stock? If I go stock I will be adding a few grease zerks.

Speaking of grease, does it amaze anyone else at the appalling lack of lubricating ability on this machine? No grease zerks anywhere. Did RI figure that nothing would ever need grease? Other than the lubrication issue, I love the simplicity of the machine. So far I've only had to use 2 different sized wrenches to get it apart.
Thanks for your input.
Bill Davis

By ISAAC EISENMAN (Tropicjungleboy) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

HEY BILL:
* about the worn bushing since your frame is allready removed from tub you should improve this system by "4 bolt flange pillow block bearing system" northern part 1827-b961 at $ 13.99 each..
* on the engine replacement...WHY??? are your jlo "dead".....be aware of hot air oulet from max..also with 4 cycle engine you need to use proper clutch design ( upto 3600 rpm)
* drum auxiliary brake....clean it and leave them "alone"..(it's to complicate to adapt "extra" disk brake system and no practical use for them if you learn how to use t-20 braking device
*if 3 bolts/lug pattern hold your rim/tire be sure that the 4 lug can hold the new rim better...
*about the chain tensioner just replace the bushing style by "b" type sprocker with integral sealed bearing.......
* about grease zert check carefully..each axle should have one hole in order to grease the inner bushing..outside bearing are sealed type...you can find good replacement at emerson bearing ( $ 16.00 each...fafnik brand 1.25 x 62mm x 16mm)
* on the proper exaust system after you install ALL your component take your max to a muffler shop for a "custom" made unit.....

happy rebuilt for happy bouncing!!!

By Bill Davis (Nvbigblue) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Isaac,
Thanks for the tips! Ya, the JLO is basically dead. I can get it to run, but it has carb and timing problems. Besides, I have never liked that two-stroke sound in anything other than a dirt bike. I'm mainly looking for slow speed, quiet bouncing. :)
Bill

By ISAAC EISENMAN (Tropicjungleboy) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

HEY BILL: THE SOUND ON A TWO CYCLE ENGINE IS ON THE CARBURATOR INTAKE AND ON THE MUFFLER EXAUST PORT...NOT IN THE ENGINE.....IF YOU SUPPLY A GOOD ENCLOUSED AIR FILTER AND A "PRE MUFFLER" YOUR TWO-CYCLE FINAL NOISE LEVEL WILL BE EQUAL TO 4 CYCLE ONES.....ABOUT TIMMING ON YOUR JLO MAYBE THE FLYWHEEL KEY IS BROCKEN...IT'S ALSO A GOOD OPORTUNITY TO CHECK FOR POINTS CONDITION...TAKE OUT THE FLYWHEEL AND CHECK THEM....ON THE CARB ISSUE YOU CAN FIND SPARE PARTS TO FIX IT!!...TWO-CYCLE ENGINES ARE EXCELLENT RUNNERS AT A N Y P O S I T I O N ( EVEN UPSIDE DOWN!!!) AND THAT'S A GOOD FEATURE FOR AATV........

By nvbigblue on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Isaac,
I know the sound can be reduced, and I know that 2 strokes have their place. I just personally don't like them. If they work for someone else...great! Other than the reliablity of a B&S is the fact that I live very near Lake Tahoe (about 40 miles away) They outlawed 2 strokes on the lake last year, and they are talking about banning 2 strokes on some of the roads and trails around the lake as well. Most of which offer excellent access to some prime powder skiing. This ban would include 2-stroke snowmobiles. Since I snowboard, I am hoping to eventually use the MAX to climb up into some good powder during the winter (running on cat tracks and old roads). It will be kinda neat to be able to go where the snowmobiles can't!

By Bill Davis (Nvbigblue) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Issac,
Well, it looks like I'll be running a 2 stroke after all! I bought an old RUPP snowmobile for $25 and it has a nice little 634cc 2 cylinder in it! Although it needs a rebuild it does run and will fit nicely....

By ISAAC EISENMAN (Tropicjungleboy) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

HEY BILL:

nice!!! $ 25.00 for a monster power plant...now it's a matter to "double check" if clutch's band gap match the t-20 pulley's gap...otherwise just change the t-20 pulley with the one from the same machine that the rupp become....also try to find a kevlar's reinforced drive belt (standard on high performances snowmobile) since you will have now a super max!!!...(don't forget your neck support!!!!........

By pete6x6 on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Bill,

If you can pistons and rings for it :)

By Bill Davis (Nvbigblue) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Pete,
I've already ordered a carb kit, new fuel filters, rings, and gasket/seal set. Hopefully here before this weekend. I'll take a few pics and post them on my web site this weekend.

Bill

By pete6x6 on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Bill,

634cc's that should pull nice. I'm still in the 440 crowd :). You should go to Pete c's drag races in April!

By lilben on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I have a few questions, reference an older (1980's Model) Max II.

1. I am doing a complete frame-off restoration. Have replaced bearings, chains, sandblasted frame, painted frame, and am putting together now. I would like to add a roll bar. I have been looking a various pictures, and can't figure out how/where they are being attached (to the frame), or aren't they?

2. Also, have ordered a 16 HP Vanguard B + S engine from Richard. Question is: how do I vent? Should I use existing muffler assy, out the side, or should I re-route with a stack system?

3. Where do I get plugs for the bottom of the lower tub. Currently the drain holes are open.

4. How deep of water will this really go in?

5. Lastly, I saw a modification of the left steering "stick" to position over to the left side of the driver. What is the benefit of this?

I can't wait to get this up and going - I will be using for Search and Rescue, and a mini-Communication Field unit with a bolt on Radio Console.

Thanks, look forward to reading the responses.

Dave

By david berger (Davidrrrd) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

(1) if theres a dealer within a driveing distance = to your quireosity you can drive over and peek for yourself as to how the roll bar works,
i will try however to breafly xplane, the roll bar dose it's loop thing as sean in most pics on route 6x6 and penetrats the body, what you dont see is a cross bar conecting each side inside body made of flat stock, it has holes in it for bolts and big washers to hold it to body under the back seat rest, this is only how it is held in position when body is open,
when body is cloased there are feet welded to the flat stock that drop down on pins welded to the fraim high up next to batery area,(see them in yours)
a washer and spring pin or coter pin secures the feat to the pins, (aint nesesary)
basicly if inverted the weight transfers from rollbar to feat to pins to fraim,
(2)save some money n use what you already have, the old stock local has worked fine for years,
if you go moderinizing you should try to do it the way ri started doing it, this way replacment parts are a phone call away,
(but then you still have this big hole in the side huh)
(3)you can buy them by the hundred fairly cheeply from an autobody shop, they are called "body plugs" got them in sizes for every aatv i have for less the $10.00 each size in 100 count boxes
(4)depends on how much inshurens your wife has on you, heh heh
try the shallow stuff out first to be shur it floats ok, then try the deeper stuff, i actualy kept a life perserver in my car for the adventures i expected to venture out in water 20 or so feet deap, it aint the depth to worry about it is how steap the entry and exits are and how long you will be in the water + how well your home brew builge pump works, ect..
myself i find water dosent fill the hull too fast to get out if i need too,
i made a trunk from my rear deck and cept a coffy can there for bailing just in case of builge pump failuer and have taken the leaky ol thing out fishing, spent 2 hours at a time on the water and headed in to let out my catch(water) useing the builge on the way out to shore,
you will feal the noticable tilt up in the noase and see water threw the floorboard at the holes for the laterals befor you are in real danger,
(5) probly none
(6) also equipe it with a hardwhere clothe (1/2"screen)box in the cooling vent for heating food, it's a great way to heat M.R.E.'s