Subtopic	Posts		Updated
	Archive through March 3, 2001	25
	Archive through March 18, 2001	1

By Mike Salva mikes amphicat on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Hi my name is mike i have a amphicat i am trying to find out what trans i have in it? The model i have is a 0079.The reason i am trying to find out what trans i have is because i am slowly losing left turning power.I adjusted the linkage to the specifications in the service manaual.it didnt work.I looked in the parts manual and i think i see the parts i need to fix the trans but dont know where i can get them? I hope some one can help thanks MIKE

By pete6x6 on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Mike,

Well we would prolly need to see a picture of it to tell you. The Amphicat can have two tranmissions in it a t-20 or what they called an atv-7000. In either case Richard Clark has parts for both.

By david berger (David3rdd) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

your cluch packs need shiming from the 15mm thay probly are now out to damm close to 17mm thick,
and back off the adjustments before reasembly

By Gary Harper (Garyinvt) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Pete6x6
I am hate to tell you tihis but you are mistaken. The Attex had T20, ATV7000 and ATV5000, not the Amphicat. The Amphi had a unit all of it's own. I am not sure if the US version or the Canadian version was designed by ODG or not, but I remember hearing that one of them was.

By johnmaiolo on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Gary, you are correct. The question still remains as to Mikes problem. Does Richard have parts for these units? Is there an internal adjustment?

By Jonas on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Hi my name is Jonas, i live in Sweden. I just lay my hands on a Amphicat, one off I belive very few in Sweden. The flotation wheels are missing, so I have too convert with something else(22*11*8). It has a Sachs 277 cc, How many horsepower is there? It got a electric start, and a lever connected to the tranny.What scould I be carefull with, I´ve just started it up afterit have been stored for 15 years?

By davidb3rd@aol.com (David3rdd) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

jonas, a good rule of thumb is 11cc per hp, thusly 277cc works out to be roughly 25hp or slightly less,its not perfict but is often close enoph, and for tires i think your looking for
21x11x8 tires, thay are the same diamiter as the old flotes, or maybe 22x12x8 carlisl tires as thay are never used on 6x6's at the 10psi, so the diamiter is more on the line of 21x12x8 at 4psi,
better still try nankang cheveron tires, thar soft sidwals flex like the old flotes and with tubes you can get them down to 2psi.
enjoy your cat, roadwolf as he is known here on these posts has many contacts for parts and much knolage on the many modles of amphacat,
his e-dress is pagsanjan20@sympatico.ca

By Eric Fry on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I bought an Amphicat a while ago (it was in pieces) and had a mechanic put it back together. Since the drive chains were missing, we had to obtain new ones. Problem is, they keep breaking. I am missing one tire (so it's a five wheeler for now). Any ideas what causes this?

Roslin, Ont. Can.

By Jon A on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I have been rebuilding a 197? Amphicat and am having a problem getting the Sach 280 cold engine started. I have rebuilt the carb and replaced the spark plug NGK #7 I think. Once the engine starts It turns over every time. I don't like using starter fluid but I am a little hesitant to use the unit for ice fishing as planned. Any feedback would be welcome.
Thanks
Jon

By david berger (Davidrrrd) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

JON, YOU MIGHT BE ABLE TO ADD A PRIMER SYSTEM TO YOUR CARB,
SOME TILITSON CARBS HAVE A SMALL BRASS TUBE STICKING OUT OF THE BASE FOR PRIMING, YOU JUST NEED A PRIMER PUMP AND FULE LINE + A TAP INTO YOUR FULE LINE, YOU CAN GET THE STUF FROM YOUR SMALL ENGINE SHOPS OR POWER EQUIPMENT SHOPS

By Toad1167 on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Hi everyone,I have a 297 or 292 sachs in my cat but I cant get the timeing right it is back firing through the carb. does anybody know how or what the timeing is on this motor?

By George P. Dorris, IV (Gpd4) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Hello all -
My cat has an internal and an external coil, (neither of which work, by the way) and I've been trying to find out which is correct. I'm guessing that it should have the internal, and that the external was added later. I get a very weak spark out of each of them.

Any ideas?

It's a model 500120 with a Sachs 297 engine, and the books I got from Richard seem to cover all models except that one.

I am getting ready to pull the chassis out and replace all bearings, sprockets, chains, seals, axles, and drive tubes, and I'd kind of like the engine to run when all that's done.

As I said - any help would be appreciated.

By the way, Davidrrrd, I pulled that metal plate off the front and it will be a good challenge for your ABS repair stuff - I got most of the fiberglass off, too. As soon as the frame comes out, I'll send more pics...

By none other than tha roadwolf on Unrecorded Date: Edit

hello george-o!, welcome to the amphicat club.
there is a lot of sach 297 tech stuff on vintage snowmobilers's links threw out the world wide web.
yes, 'em.... king david tha 3rd is the route's 6x6 unoffical plastic master! now, if he can only glue bin lauden's ars to tha front of a F18 fighter jet!
then bin lauden would, " most definately" should have known!

By mr. roadwolf on Unrecorded Date: Edit

1167th toad, yer breaker points should open 25 to 20 degrees before top dead centre.
if the backfiring continues, simply drive yer amphicat over to bin lauden's cave and blast him out!

By Steve Malikoff on Unrecorded Date: Edit

G'day Amphicat experts,
I have just acquired a 1972 Amphicat, the only one in Australia (as far as I know). This is my first experience at running and maintaining an AATV, so I'd like to ask a few questions if I may?
They might be obvious, or even a bit inane, however I want to be cautious with it, as spare parts are a LONG way away (ie. the USA).
I'd like to put together a simple list for myself, covering Amphicat maintenance and repair, so here goes:

1) What would be more kind to the motor (a Sachs 297cc), unleaded or lead-replacement gas?

2) Can I use standard 20W-50 motor oil as the 25:1 mix, or is two-stroke oil best?

3) Should I use grease or oil the chains?

4) Is there a "rule of thumb" for chain tension?

5) Do I use standard marine or HTB grease in the axle hubs?

6) I believe the body is made from Cycolac, and can be softened with acetone. I'd like to repair and fill a few holes and cracks, would it be better to melt and refill with a soldering iron and piece of similar material or to use solvent?

7) Has anyone added an extra muffler to reduce the typical 2-stroke noise, or replaced the motor with a quieter B&S 4-stroke?

8) Has anyone ever made a fibreglass or ABS replacement body for the Amphicat?

9) Do people use them in salt water? I'd like to, but suspect this will kill it, so I'll stick to fresh water.

10) Anything else, specifically Amphicat-related, I should be aware of?

Sorry for the long list, I really do appreciate any comments!

Steve Malikoff.
steven@phaedra.apana.org.au

By Mike on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Hey George, how's the Amphicat coming along?

By George P. Dorris, IV (Gpd4) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

It's coming along very slowly. I got the body separated (top & bottom) and pulled the chassis out. I'm still removing fiberglass from the body - that won't take too much longer once the weather starts to cooperate with me. As soon as all that is done, it'll need one more trip to the carwash to get the rest of the grease out of it, and I can start patching.
The engine is in several pieces at the moment. It took almost two weeks to get the flywheel off - spraying it with penetrating oil almost every day and light pressure with a wheel puller - but it's off now! 2 ignition coils and 1 generator all wired through the same set of points. The points are completely burned through, but I think I found set to replace them.
Let's just say that it's keeping me busy...

George

By George P. Dorris, IV (Gpd4) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

It's coming along very slowly. I got the body separated (top & bottom) and pulled the chassis out. I'm still removing fiberglass from the body - that won't take too much longer once the weather starts to cooperate with me. As soon as all that is done, it'll need one more trip to the carwash to get the rest of the grease out of it, and I can start patching.
The engine is in several pieces at the moment. It took almost two weeks to get the flywheel off - spraying it with penetrating oil almost every day and light pressure with a wheel puller - but it's off now! 2 ignition coils and 1 generator all wired through the same set of points. The points are completely burned through, but I think I found set to replace them.
Let's just say that it's keeping me busy...

George

By Andre Landuyt on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I have acquired a 1964 Penguin Amphibious vehicle
I want to restore him. The motor is total-loss and the tires to. I'm looking for an engine Villiers 9E-4SFR with dynastart. The tires are Goodyear Terra Tire Terra Grip 16 x 14.50 - 6, i need 2 tires. Is there some one that could help me. Thanks a lot.

By George Plester on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I have an old amphicat built in the 60s by BeeHoo industries in Streetsvill ontario. I need the transmission with the tourque converter clutch assembly. The tranny is a metal box 6"long, 4 and 3/4 " wide and 5" high. If anyone has one for sale please e-mail me George at water@log.on.ca

By Andre on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I have restored an 1967 Amphicat Serial Number 00045 and cannot seem to get the clutch plates and c bands adjusted in order to steer it left or right.It has an ODG gear box. If I pull back on either steer rod or pole if either is the proper name, it stops both drive sides from rolling. Is there any literature to see if I reinstalled the unit correctly or adjusted it to tight? Any help would be greatly appreciated.Andre Grotrian

By Eugene Kochnieff on Unrecorded Date: Edit

GPD4

Hi I have a theory on your weak spark problem,

You say it has a coil under the flywheel and what looks like an add on, my guess is the permanent magnets in the magneto flywheel have become weak. This can happen if at some time the flywheel was exposed to mechanical shock or excessive heat. Like what might be expected when someone tried the wrong way to remove a stuck flywheel. Some time droping it will do it also.

This may also explain the external coil as a previous owner may have set up an external ignition system with a coil and battery that uses the existing points.

It can be fixed by replacing it or if you have a good motorcycle shop they may have a re-magnetizer or know someone who has one.

By Nailcreek on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I've recently moved to the Wausau Wisconsin area and would like to know if anyone around the area has some Amphicat experience. I've one that I want to restore and would like some points and tips and perhaps some help! Thanks!
nailcreek@hotmail.com

By Nailcreek on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Well, I've got the chassis removed from the body and I'm working on cleaning the ingrained oil from the plastic. Any suggestions for really cleaning the plastic?

By david berger (Davidrrrd) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

asatone on a rag cleans well but might not clean the dark stains out of the inside of the hull

By roadwolf on Unrecorded Date: Edit

charlie pike has used sand paper to get out the yucky stuff.

By Andre on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I have restored an 1967 Amphicat Serial Number 00045 and cannot seem to get the clutch plates and c bands adjusted in order to steer it left or right.It has an ODG gear box. If I pull back on either steer rod or pole if either is the proper name, it stops both drive sides from rolling. Is there any literature to see if I reinstalled the unit correctly or adjusted it to tight? Any help would be greatly appreciated.Andre Grotrian

By John Mazil on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Hi I am putting a 4 Stroke B&S 16 hp motor in my Ampicat, I got a new drive pulley [Which I didnt know the 2 stroke pulley would not work with a 4 stroke when I started this project] Now I need a shorter belt, I put a string around the pulleys and it measures 36" The old one is way too loose and there is no more room to sliden the motor back
But I cant find a drive belt 3/4" by 36".Do any of you know where I can find one ?

By david berger (Davidrrrd) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

i used a wider one for my friends amphicat, we just used a grinding wheel and pationtly grinded it as we turned the belt till entire belt was narrower to fit her cat,
we had droped a 340cc 2 stroke twinn into the lil beast!

By david berger (Davidrrrd) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

so how about them 0-121 model amphicats, dose anyone have info and or manual on that trany?
it's a 2 speed aluminum box+rev,
it then takes 1 big chain inside an aluminum chanel out to a shaft between the left and right stearing cluches,
a few monthes ago someone posted a pic on the web and was asking what kind of oil go's into this model, the anser was 90 weight,
so dose anyone know about this who may be able to help, someone i gave an aatv ride too years ago came by a few days ago to show me his prize posation, a nice rair amphicat, it's poping out of first gear and he needs help, thatnks in advance!

By Steve on Unrecorded Date: Edit

G'day Dave,
I have that particular transmission in my Cat here in Oz. I was beginning to think I was the only one with this setup, until your posting.

I have the manual I might be able to scan. It's not a complicated gearbox, but getting replacement gears might be a problem though.

I'm thinking about putting a Honda GX340 motor in mine, and also have to order the 4-stroke torque converter. I didn't know the belt was a different length though. Looks like the installation will be a shoehorned fit.... hmmm.

Steve.

By roadwolf on Unrecorded Date: Edit

two gears meshed will stay that way with or without dentent springs and balls. a gear that pops out was never fully ingaged. i have a manual for a 00126 2 speed.

By shane forsythe (Shanefor1) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

yeah i'd like to know how the steering clutches work are there any drawings of the ?7000 box? not the t-20
shane

By david berger (Davidrrrd) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

thanks phill,
that would help the guy alot,
he has already invested alot into the cat he has,
would be a shame if it died,
especily as it lookes like something of a groop is forming that may start some rideing events arround here,

By david berger (Davidrrrd) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

g-day to you too steve m,
say steve have you met shane forsythe?
he lives only an hour or so from you,
he's got some new videos,
prehaps you could bring your aatv over and give him a ride,
also give you a chance to check out his new vid's
it's safest to ride in groops, who knowes? this could be the begining of a local rideing orgaization,

By Steve M on Unrecorded Date: Edit

G'day again David,
I have not met Shane personally, however I sent him some pictures of my Cat's restoration and some scans of the Amphicat manual. He's pretty keen on AATV's, I guess that applies to everyone on this Board! :)
I used to live in the same state as he does, but I recently moved interstate (I'm about 700 miles north of where he is, now). That's why I have not been active with ATV stuff - too many things to do, and not enough hours in the day! :(

I enjoyed your Humphrey video very much. I should really order some more of them. We just don't have terrain like that here.

I managed to get my Cat registered under what is called 'conditional registration' here. One of the requirements is that I fit a 55-watt rotating flashing light to the ATV. I'm doing that now. It's pretty restrictive to drive ATV's here, you folks are darned lucky with your trails in the US!! (drool)

Steve.

By CRAZYARCHER00 on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Hey guys,
Anyone tell me how to find out the value of a amphicat? OR THE LIKE? Thinkin of gettin rid of some original beauts! Just have no clue what to charge. Any help would be spendiferous. Chow. :)~

By maxindetroit on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Give Richard a call, Im sure he would love to talk to you about those.

By Dean Pittman on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Hello,

I just aquired an old amphicat. The tranny has a lever that appears to have 3 settings. (1st, 2nd, Rev.???)Does anyone know what this is for and how it's used? Also what kind/type of fluid should be used in that particular tranny?

Take Care, Dean

By david berger (Davidrrrd) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

hi dean that trany is exacly as it seams, a 2 speed with revers, it's an aluminum gear box with an aluminum covered chain conection to the stearing cluches right?
a friend also has resently aquired one, he needs info on the trany to fix his because it dosent stay in gear for him, however stearing adgustments seam to be by tightening the big gland nut just inside from stearing cluches,
if this is what yours is like than it takes 90 wt gear oil, other than that my friend knowes nothing else and needs help also,
he has e-mailed and called richard clark, and so far we still dont know if he has owners manual that covers this model,
look on your fraim for an aluminum plate with writing on it, if it has clearer information than on my friends machine we will be shure of the model number to ask mr clark about,
is your amphicats body in good shape?
i have ABS repair kits,

By Steve M on Unrecorded Date: Edit

G'day David, Dean,
I have the manuals that cover this model of transmission in my 500121 Amphicat. They took a little while to acquire (eBay) as it does not seem to be a very common unit. I could perhaps get around to photocopying or scanning them if anyone's interested.
David is correct about the oil and adjustments (he knows his stuff!), and repairs to ABS turn out well.

I've adjusted mine 'by the book' and it seems ok. I did modify a spanner to adjust the chains more easily. My gearbox however leaks a little gear oil from the shaft ends in the housing; what I've thought of doing is machining a few plastic discs which could be pressed into the ends to stop oil drips.

I made all new axles, rebushed the flanges, put in new bearings and neoprene seals all round, and put in marine drainplugs. I also made a hinged outboard motor bracket. I still have to finish the bilge pump and rollbar and a few other things.

Steve in Australia.

By david berger (Davidrrrd) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

hi steve, dean and i have exchainged transmition pics and have found he has a more common model, im not shure yet why it has markings that say 2 gears and revers, his has forward nutral and brake on the laterels and if laterels are held in nutral theres a loop on floor you kick down to engage reverse, it was only clear wich trans he had when i got his trany picture by e-mail,
i have some copys of manual for him, but would like very much copys of your 500121 manual for george brenton, a friend of mine,
id happaly swap you another aatv event video for the manual copy's if you enjoyed the last video and would like another

By dan on Unrecorded Date: Edit

looking for info on what is red,has one headlight,split flip up bench seat,small 2 stroke,belt to chain drive no reverse and gas tank in the front.
any info appreciated

By roadwolf on Unrecorded Date: Edit

a red jigger

By gpd4 on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Could be a Gyp-Sea, too...

By Wayne Edel (Jigerguy) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Unless it's custom painted (possible), it's sounds like a multimoble which used the same botton half mold as the Jiger. If you have some pic's I could tell you.

By MIKE LOSKA on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I BOUGHT A '69 AMPHICAT. IT CAME WITH A SACH'S MOTOR. I TORE IT APART TO FIX THE HOLES. NOW I CANT FIGURE OUT HOW THE ENGINE MOUNTS ON THE FRAME. A PICTURE OR DIAGRAM WOULD BE GREAT... OR ANYTHING! AFTER ALL IT WAS ONLY 4 YEARS AGO I GOT IT AND HAVEN'T DRIVEN IT YET. PLEASE HELP!!
MIKE

By david berger (Davidrrrd) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

mike your engin mounts to an engin mount plate and that plate to a slideing plate on fraim that has slots for adgustments , this slideing mount gos from left side of fraim to the right side, it's got slots for lots of little bolts like the bering bolts to be loosend and tightiend after adgusment, on some models this wide plate is welded insted, but is the same plate, as wide as fraim, this wide plate has 2 parts in frount just left of center that hold rubber mounts sideways to absorb forward vibrations and tork from belt trying to pull engin and trans together(keeps engine from getting cloaser to trany)
now for the smaller plate your engine bolts to, it also has thes 2 mounts for the tork absorbing rubber mounts on it, if you align it so they line up with the mounts in them and the 4 rubber engine mounts from big plate to the small plate strait up , you only need to bolt engine,
this small plate can only go one way if you remember the tork canceling rubber thingys on both plats go together, hope this helps
ps what did you fix the holes with?

By swampman on Unrecorded Date: Edit

dave, this is chrisredel I changed my username to swampman. I have posted the picture of the amphicat/copycat/peerless that I was telling you about under my new profile. I will post back if you still need manuals I have original parts, owners, and service manuals for some of the amphicats but they are out in the polebarn so I will check later. I do believe that steve bought his from me on eBay.

chris--wisconsin

By david berger (Davidrrrd) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

i clicked your name in the post and only get your e-mail, not your profile yet,
id like to check out this pearless pis you have on your new profile,
david

By ferdrobert on Unrecorded Date: Edit

i have a amphicat model 3mlth with specs0177 a001 or so the tag says can any one tell me what i have.it is missing the engine so what wpuld be a good replacement thanks

By Barry on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Hi guys,
I just bought an amphi-cat model 0079 magna. It's been sitting outside exposed for several years. Does anyone know what size sachs motor is in this unit. I will buy the manual and carb adjustment books but I don't know the engine size and there are two books. I get to pick it up in a week and if anyone has any input or heads up regarding mechanical issues and or motor replacement, I would really appreciate it

Thanks,

By david berger (Davidrrrd) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

barry your sacks engine should have the size on it some place,
any way i think the size diference may have more to do with wether it is a single scylinder or a twinn, there were some twinns,
howes the body on your new cat? they are made from ABS plastic, i have the repair kit's for ABS bodies,

By Denver Rhodes on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Hello guys, this is a great message board. I have been rebuilding an Aphibacat for over a year now. I have completely disassembled it down to the bear frame. Primed and painted it and started there. I have made two new front axils, one rear axel and converted them all to a 110mm bolt pattern. I have replaced every bearing, all the seals, every inch of chain. I replaced the 2 cycle motor with a Koler “V” twin 16 HP and new Comet torque convert set. The transmission showed signs of leaking around both output shafts so I pulled it completely down, cleaned and inspected all the clutch plates, break and reverse bands, gears and bearings. The clutch plates showed a little bluing from heat, but where not warped or scared. Replaced inter main bearings and seals and put it back together. I took it out for a test run this week and it ran good. The left side dose not pull as well as the right. I adjusted the linkage to give me more travel on the clutch cam plate. This helped. It turned good, but the left side started getting weaker to the point it would not pull going up hill. On level ground it dose alright. The right side will spin all three tires with no problem. I again tried to adjust the linkage and this time the turn buckle that attaches the plunger to the cam plate came unscrewed and dropped down below the hole for the plunger. I don’t need to tell anyone how good that made me fell. Any way I just wanted to give everyone a little (or a lot) of info about me and my cat. I have taken about 200 digital photos of every step including the transmission completely disassembled a laid out on my work bench. If anyone is interested in seeing them let me know. I guess I will pull the transmission out and pull it down again. If anyone has ever converted a cat to a newer style transmission please let me know. I an investigating converting it to a hydrostatic drive system, anyone every see this done? I can be reached at hdfxstd@yahoo.com

By david berger (Davidrrrd) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

denver
thouse cluch pack piecess can fool you, if you mixed them all together when you cleand and inspected them you may inadvertently chainged your cluch pack thicknesses on each side as the piecess can vairy by thickness in reponce to where n tear, they should aproch 17mm in thicknesses and adguster must be relaxed as far as posable when reasembling in order to get your 17mm pack together,
on one of a friends sides i had to shimm out the pack with a great big ol washer, to get my 17mm
i did so on the end where it did nothing but take up nesesary space, good luck!
maybe this would make a good "how too" video

By Denver Rhodes on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Hello David,

I tore my transmission down late last night. Every this was in the correct place. I have cleaned all the clutch plates and measured them all. I get (on the worn areas) 1.66mm to 1.69mm measuring in three places on each plate 120deg. a part. I can measure the places on the plates where there has been no sign of wear and get 1.70mm. I can’t see any sign of real wear down between the areas that rub together and the places like the outer ears that don’t rub on anything. I measured the stacks last night and got 15.10mm on one and 15.16mm on the other. The total stack up of the plates using the thickness that has not wear is 15.30mm (9 x 1.70mm = 15.30). I was going to have the tool room here at work edm me two spacers to fit in the clutch basket 2mm thick, but it bothers me that the total of the non-worn plats = 15.3mm and the fact that the right side would spin all 3 wheels with very little effort. Maybe I did not have it adjusted properly? I can still put the spacers in if you think it needs it though. Please let me know what you think. I have emailed you a couple times with and with out photos and keep geting a message that the email did not go through.

Thanks
Denver Rhodes

By david berger (Davidrrrd) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

yes i receved them, i did have alot of mail in the junk filter and maybe the first one with the photos helped gum it up, i realy enjoyed the pics,
the thickness where it is not worn bothers me too!
but adding thickness to my friends cluch pack did the trick, prehaps the whear is from the presher bearing?
if the bolt droped in before you had good power to that side the cluch pack isent tall enoph, thickness wise, maybe the ramp for the thrust bearing/presher plate is worn? something must take up the space, prehaps even 1mm will give you nessesary thickness for adgustments to work,
but i asembled my friends with 17mm as the thickness, a little more wouldent go together,

By Denver Rhodes on Unrecorded Date: Edit

UPDATE – Put the transmission back together. This time I measured all the plates ID and OD in 6 places around the circumfuse. I matched the low spots with the high spots to give an even stack-up (15.3mm). It may not have made any difference, but what the heck. I adjusted the plungers and away I went. It worked great. I still have to do a little more adjusting to get the leavers even where it is fully engaged, and the right break needs a little more pull, but all in all it worked perfect. I also have to do a little work on the throttle linkage to get it to go back to an idle. Plus I need to run exhaust pipe back and tig it to the stock muffler. The two very small ¾ inch lawn mower mufflers don’t do much too quite down the big “V” twin 4 stoker now powering the cat. I rode it all over the neighborhood got some real interesting looks from the neighbors. I went up and down the hills that gave me all the trouble last time. It would pull up the hill and accelerate hard wile doing so. It will turn in its own tracks on the black top with little effort, and reverse works perfect. The one thing I did notice that XXXX talked about was the heat in the trainy. The son of a gun got real hot, but I was not cutting it any slack either. I put all new seals in and had to make two more gaskets for the side covers and they all seamed to hold with not a drop of fluid. I am going to install the floor and fab a new seat bracket to hold two boat seats I bought a wile back. Next after the exhaust system and seats I have a front and rear plastic rack off a Polaris Sportsman 500 I am going to mount one on the front going out from the two flat places on the front of the body are. The front rack is cut out where it went around the steering column and head light. The rear over the engine in so that it will swing open like a car hood to get to the motor. The motor has a 1.7 gallon gas tank built on it. The 5 gallon tank in the front is clean with no rust. I plant to hook up a fuel pump and run a hose and safety valve to the rear so I can transfer gas from the 5 gallon tank to the 1.7 gallon tank when needed. Still would like to find some sort of pump that could handle the hot transmission fluid. I have a jag motorcycle oil cooler with 2 12vdc box fans that just fit over it. One thing at a time.
Denver Rhodes

By Denver Rhodes on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Sorry David, I worte the update on my cat in Microsoft word and got your name mixed up with several others I have talked with about Anphiacats. I put XXXX for you name planning on making sure it was David and replacing the XXXX with your name.
Sorry
Denver

By shanefor1 on Unrecorded Date: Edit

to all 6x6 8x8 atv'ers in australia.

i would like to make a riding group(s)
i'm in the sydney (bargo) area.

anyone interested?
contact me:
shanefor1@yahoo.com.au

thanks to dave b. and steve m. for giving me the idea re:above posts on feb 17/2004.

By walksupright on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I just recently bought a 6x6 vehicle. The left side does not drive properly. The tranny reads atv 7000. Is there a part I can get for it?

By david berger (Davidrrrd) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

WALKSUPRIGHT: YOU NEED TO ADJUST IT WITH BOX END WRENCH AND ALLEN WRENCH,
LOOK AT YOUR MACANICLE CALIPERS ON WORKING SIDE AND AFECTED SIDE AND ADJUST THE SAME, OTHERWISE RITCHARD CLARK DOSE HAVE THE 7000 TRANY DISC BRAKE PUCKS, BUT THATS ABOUT ALL FOR THIS MODELE ATTEX, HE MOSTLY CARRYS PARTS FOR THE T-20 MODEL ATTEX'S

By Bob Sanders on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Before tearing into an old Amphicat I've had sitting in the weeds for 15-20 years, I want to be sure parts are available. The Right drive assembly does not rotate beyond the clutch. It could be the clutch assembly, a frozen brake...or ??? [The Left side works fine, and the stub from the transmission roates up to the clutch assembly]. Is the clutch assembly or parts with which to rebuild it available?

By Jim Webb (213.40.3.66) on : Edit

hi my name is Jim, i live in the u.k. i have just bought an old amphicat to restore, they seem to be rare in the U.K and i can't find alot of information or history about it.
Are parts and tyres still available?
I have no idear how old it is only that it is red in colour and has a 2stroke engine.