Subtopic	Posts		Updated
	Archive through January 28, 2001	8

By George on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Friends,

Was'nt there a link on this site for buying the materials neccessary to patch the ABS body on the Attex? If anyone can supply some info, that would be great.

Thanks,
George

By kush on Unrecorded Date: Edit

George,

McMAster-CArr sells ABS Rod & plate. You can use some acetone to sofetn it up.

Kush

By david berger (Davidrrrd) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I have abs repair kits available
i havent put them on the route6x6 clasifyds yet,
don't ask me why, cause i don't know heh heh heh

By L. A. Philip Osborn (Roadwolf) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

georgey-o,
once you get the abs, there is sum real good tech for repairing methods on this site. it is under attex plastic bodies or sumtin like that (tree view).
it definately features 'route regulars david berger and mike abbey. definately check it out! and yes george, you definately should have known!

By George on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Help!!

My Colt keeps having problems with the chain that wraps around the middle, rear wheel and tranny on the driver's left side. This chain ofcourse is the one running under the motor mount. I've managed to mess up a couple idler sprokets (one was brand new). The chain is realatively new as well as all the inner and outer berrings. I've tightened the chain as per qwner's manual specs. and it just seems to come loose again. I've compared the distance on this idler from the frame to the other and made adjustments. It seems fine when I adjust the chain (tighten)but than loosens up after a little while. All he other chains are fine. All the axels look good.

Any thoughts?

By new & improved road wolf on Unrecorded Date: Edit

sounds like you have problems in the area of your idler sprocket adjustment. compare the one that is lossening to the other side. study the area where it is clamping. i had some new weldments/ ildler sprockets made up for a amphicat. the idler sprocket was dropping in it's adjustment after a short run. i found out later that some of the excess weld was not letting the fastener completely bottoming out!

By liflod (Liflod) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

ATTEX Rollbar.Does anyone have drawings or detailed pictures of an ATTEX rollbar. I plan on building one for mine. I have a windshield installed and I need to build a rollbar or cage around it so if it rolls the windshield will not collapse on me! Any suggestions?

By Attex Bob on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I've got an Attex super Chief 500 with a factory rollbar on it. It will take me awhile to get a picture of it though. I will see if I can do it this month for you. They are really simple to build.

By EJ Warden on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Iv'e got a 1981 Attex Superchief, and I am looking for a plow, and a mounting kit. Any ideas?

By david berger (Davidrrrd) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

ej, the RI plow and mount idea will work on your attex, id ask for plans or dimentions from them and build it yourself, that way it fits your attex, i got 1 with my max II that the previous owner built with such help from RI and it works good, but it needs a winch,

By EJ Warden on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Dave- What or who is RI? Is it a manufacturer? Let me know who to contact if you can. Thanks

By david berger (Davidrrrd) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

EJ, IM SORRY YES RI = RECREATIVES INDUSTRIES,
MAKER OF MAX VEHICLES 1-800-255-2511
I HOPE THIS HELPS

By George on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Hey Folks,

I'm getting ready to "re-activate" the Chief I bought a few months ago. Anyone have an idea what size bolts I need to to remount the engine to the motor mount (it's the original JLO 400cc).

Any help would be great.

Thanks,
George

By Brian Kirby (Briank59) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Hi everybody!

I just bought a 1969 Attex 297 and I have a couple of questions. First, how in the hell do you get the axles out? I have removed the engine and trans already, and I removed all of the wheels. I spun all the axles, and all of them appear good except for the right rear, which is bent slightly. I removed the three allen bolts that hold the outer bearing, the two bolts that hold the inner bearing, and I was able to remove the inner bearing by pulling the axle and flexing the inner frame a little. But no matter how much I stare at the axle, I still can't figure out a way to get it out of there. This appears to be a solid axle, not like the front ones which appear to be hollow with a through bolt holding them together. Please don't tell me I have to cut the axle. I will, but I don't know if I can get a replacement axle. I also can't see how this axle was originally installed. The sprocket is welded to the axle on the INSIDE towards the frame. Some fancy welding I must say if it was done AFTER the axle was installed. Any help would be appreciated.

Also, I have found a crack in the bottom near the left rear axle. Does the ABS repair kit sold by davidb3rd@aol.com really work?

Finally, should the transmission freewheel in both directions as well as independent of each other? Does the torque converter apply sidways pressure to engage the trans? Or is it an RPM thing? Oh yeah, what type of trans is it, too.

Thanks,

Brian

By kush on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Brian,

Most of the axles I've worked on have been rusted, or welded together. 1" steel rod can be bought from Mcmaster Carr very cheaply. A metal saw blade in a circular saw will cut it , then drill the holes for the bolts. I've used old bent axles to pound the axles out of the tube & sprocket assembly.

Trans sounds like a Borg Warner T-20. RI still has the parts fro them. Order a manual & parst list. Yes it should freewheel if I rememeber correctly. The clutch moves in & out by engine rpm.

By Joel Haslett (Rustyjeep) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Brian, I had several early model Attexs here .There were 3 different axle setups in the ones I had. One had the sprockets you described. I never did figure out how they came out. I hauled that Attex body to Gary Harper's house(Gary in VT.)from the discussion board.He may have figured out how to get them out. The other ones we have here have the sprocket welded to a tube that slides over the axle shaft and is pinned to the axle.
There is an early style transmission that came before the T20 ,they have a tag that says ATV mfg.co. I have a picture I can Email if you need help identifying which one you have.
One of your last questions leads me to think that you may have the early trans because on the early ones you have to push foward on the levers to enguage the trans, it will freewheel untill you push foward .
We have had good results with Dave's ABS kit. There is a lot of info on the Board on ABS ,I think under "Attex Bodies".
Feel free to Email if I can help. We're all in this together!

By Brian Kirby (Briank59) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Wow, thanks for all the responses! I have an ATTEX POWER 5000 Trans. There is a tag on it that says model 5000. Apparently this is also called a baker hill trans. Thanks everybody. I will submit a picture of the rear axle so you all can help me figure out how to remove it. It is beginning to look more and more like I will need to cut it out.

Thanks everybody.

By philip osborn on Unrecorded Date: Edit

hey brian, "definately" check out dave's stuff*. his liquid abs kit makes welding plastic so easy its like using a mig welder on steel. you will get a kick out of it so much you'll hardly be able to wait to damage your abs body again, so you can use it!

By George on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Anyone happen to know what the spark plug gap should be on the JLO in the Chief (398cc, single carb)?

Thanks,
George

By kush on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Attex Manual

400 Chief Champion N3 .016 - .020 inches.


JLO Manual

396 CC Bosch M240T1 Champion K57R 0.4-0.5 mm or 0.018 inch

Hope that helps

By George on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Thanks

By liflod (Liflod) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Brian,
Do your bearings have the cocentric collar on the outside? You may have to get a hammer and punch to unlock the bearing from the axle. If its the same as mine(440 Thunderchief) you should be able to unbolt the bearings from the frame and slide the axle out of the body.

By david berger (Davidrrrd) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

on removale of the colers a spaner wrench is the best way as it dosent damage the coler and you can use the bearing again, now if the bearing is bad go ahead and destroy it, just get a spaner for the new bearings ok

By liflod (Liflod) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

How do you keep the bearing itself from spinning while using a spanner wrench? I know when I try to unlock the collar, the collar and the bearing spin on the axle as one unit. I guess I can try channel locks on the inside to hold the bearing.

Dave, I finally have my ATTEX running. I have some bugs to work out on it. I made some patches for the huge holes in the body and they seam to be holding very well. I used aluminum sealed with liquid nails and pop rivets to hold it together. I have many dents in the aluminum plate but the edges where the liquid nails is not cracked or damaged at all. As soon as I get some tires that are not bald on the front I will check to see how it floats!
My engine has 2 carbs on it with the enricher valves instead of chokes. I am still having problems getting it started without squirting fuel in the carbs or putting my hand over the carbs. Anyone else with the same troubles?

By John Kevin Maiolo (Johnmaiolo) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Liflod, why take a chance on patching the body with aluminum, liquid nails and pop rivets when you can purchase great body repair materials from David?

By liflod (Liflod) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Budget! The holes in the body were very large. Under the front right at the leading edge on both sides there were holes about 4 inches wide and 10 or so inches long. The method I used seems to be holding well. As far as taking a chance, I see how well the plastic holds up against rocks and tree stumps---it doesn't! I actually like the idea of a skid plate.

I think it would be nice if someone who has a good, hole free body, make a mold of it and make a heavy duty plastic skid plate that can be used as a repair patch or just as protection.

By liflod (Liflod) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I updated my profile with a picture of the underside of my ATTEX. Any suggestions other than a new body are welcomed. I will post another picture of the repairs when I get a chance. I believe my repairs will hold up, but if they don't I need to try something else.

By david berger (Davidrrrd) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

bearing and spaner, if the coler and bering spin on the axel it probly isent locked, theres a set screw also to check on but id say try to pry the coler away from bearing after removing the set screw, you may need to jog it back and forth a few times while you try to seperate the color form bearing,
during instalation your set screw helps put some drag on the bearing so the locking color gets a bight on axel & CONCENTRIC EREA OF BEARInG
two carbs without choke?
easy, you may have a primer tube built into the base of your carbs, it's a little brass tube with a screw in it, remove the screw put on tubing and conect to a primer bulb and t fiting from main fule suply( after the filter of coarsc)
if you canot find such a tube just replase the carb spacer with one modifyed with a brass fiting threw to the inside and runn your tubing as in the obouve posts = t fitings for twinns, a few squirts and presto beter then a choke!

By George on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Does anyone know of a belt that can be used in a 72 Colt? I checked with Richard Clark and he told me that he has them custom made every so often. I was just wondering if anyone knows of an acceptable substitute.

Thanks,
George

By Bill Carlton wildbill on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Hi Guys,
I don't have a 6x6 yet but have been looking at a Attex 300 lately(69 ??). Body appears to be in good shape but engine will not stay running. Drive train and tires look O.K. but haven't seen the thing move. Owner is also throwing in a terra tiger. Body is in good shape but parts of drive train and engine are missing. Also 3 more tires/rims fair condition. Can someone give me a reasonable price??

By Doug Barker on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Bill,
Whatever you end up paying, plan to add at least a grand to the cost if you want it to be a rock solid 6 wheeler not to mention months of your time. I have been there several times and although its a good feeling to rebuild a 6 wheeler, you might consider putting your money towards one thats newer and way closer to being ready to ride. Good Luck
Doug

By pete6x6 on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Bill,

He did not give you a price? I'd start at $500 and see where he goes from there. Also if you are carting this all away take that cost into consideration also. Although the Attex and Terra Tiger are rare finds you stil should be compensated for travel time and such.

By david berger (Davidrrrd) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

bill tell us about the tires, if ther the old 3 inch hub one pice tires there worth aprox $50.00 each, (because you never know if thel last ten years or ten minuites)
if there 21x11x8 and on rims + holding air they may be conciderably more value, fig it would cost you over $600.00 too replace them,

good tires
+good body
+compleat drive train
+another vehicle you can
sell off for restoration fund$,
=DO IT!

By BillCarltonwildbill on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Thanks for the responses,
I had not planned on putting that much into a machine, however I'd much rather spend it on one I can ride in and floats than on one I have to straddle that sinks. I don't remember the size of the extra tires but two are on 5 lug rims and one is a one piece job. All of the tires including the spares seem to be worn on the edges of the tread, could this be from fouling with the muffler on the Attex? If so is this normal. Hope to see the owner again next week - will make a low offer and see what happens. Will let you all know - thanks again for your input. Also want to thank Richard for a great site.

By roadwolf on Unrecorded Date: Edit

wildbill, if you play yer cards right and pick it up for 5 to 6 hundrit, an say ya put even a grand in it, ya will have a machine ya built with yer own hands! ya also don't mind fixin anything that will go wrong with it in tha future 'cause it is yer creation!
like President Bush said tha other day, "go out and buy that used aatv, go out and buy those goodies from richard's relics, an go out an buy david#3 videos!".

By George on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Can anyone make a reccomendation for a belt replacement on a 72 Colt with the original 252cc? Richard Clark does not have any in stock.


Thanks,
George

By billcarltonwildbill on Unrecorded Date: Edit

O.K.Guys, I bought the Attex this past weekend. Will be asking lots of questions as the rebuild goes along. I have a picture of both machines (Attex and Terra) taken after I dropped them off the trailer. As soon as I find out how to post them you can have a peek. As always your comments and suggestions are welcome.

By wildbill on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I have listed one picture of the Attex on my profile page-will change and show other pics as I go along.

By david berger (Davidrrrd) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

wild bill where is your profile page? i wanted too look at yer attex?????i got an e-mail thingy???

By Eric Magyor on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Hey folks, Just wanted to invite you all to me and my wife's handiwork -- an attex website! The URL is http://www.alltel.net/~kjmagyor. I am sending it to Richard and hopefully it will be on the links soon.

By pete6x6 on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Eric,

Neat site! I'm glad to see others interested in Attex like me. I have two now a partialy restored wild wolf and a newer 1970's vintage I just bought off of here.

By kush on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Eric, I agree with Pete. NIce site. We need more Attex sites out there! Wish I had the time to keep mine current. Now we need some video's of our machines in action.

By E.J. on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Greetings,
I have a 1982 Attex SuperChief. It has an 18 hp Tecumseh engine and runs like a champ. I just had a plow frame welded for it, and hopefully we will get some snow to try it out. Here are my two questions. One, the Tecumseh only gets to 25 mph, so I am looking for a two stroke replacement. Any ideas? Second, I hooked up my trolling motor to assist in the water (yes I did try a 7.5 Mercury but I almost sank) but I want a little more speed. Has anyone ever tried jet propulsion (like on a waterski?) Have fun and ride.

By pete6x6 on Unrecorded Date: Edit

EJ,

Look on ebay under subject snowmobile. A guy is selling a 440 two stroke kawasaki for $200. Buy the sled and you have the motor,starter,battery,lights,alternator, and the whole bit. Your ride should move good with a 440. Or get a hold of petec in nj or richard. They all have big twostrokes.

By E.J. on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Pete-
Thanks for the info. Will a 2-stroke give the same amount of low end power that I am getting from the 18 hp? Also, would the engine clutch from a two stroke work with the engine I currently have? How can I tell if the clutch is from the original two stroke engine? The belt (which is a polaris snowmobile belt) does stand up the entire way now, but with a two stroke wouldn't it come right off with the added rpm's?

By the amazing roadwolf on Unrecorded Date: Edit

ej, alot of big sleds only have manual start. check this out first before you get too attached to it! pete6x6, so are you wheelin now?

By pete6x6 on Unrecorded Date: Edit

EJ,

Well the secret to running a 6x6 twostroke is plain rpm's. I ride mine wide open that's thoe only way to get enough torque to conquer those really big hills. I'm running in my second Attex working on first.

By liflod (Liflod) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

E.J. the 2 stroke should not cause the belt to ride up on the engine clutch. The transmission side has to give (let the belt ride down lower) before the engine side will increase in size. With the vehicle moving at a slow speed the engine RPM should not cause the belt to ride up. As the vehicle speed increases, the transmission side will alow the cltuch to seperate and allow the engine side to come together.

I hope this helps. I'm not sure what makes a clutch a 2 stroke part or a 4 stroke part, but try the one you have..its paid for!

By Rocky Albano on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Hi Ijust got a attex superchief 500 and im having tbl starting it. I have to crank the engine aprox 1 1/2 min at 8 sec burst to get it started when cold unless i use starting fluid..It does have a choke and I used it but to no aval.....Can any one help ,thanks

P.S. once it starts it runs great.I put new plugs and cked the comp in the cyl 150lbs solid on both

By david berger (Davidrrrd) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

hey rocky sometimes a choke ant enoph,
some tilotsens have a little tube in the base with a screw in it, if you remove the screw and add a primer pump to your vehicle this is the spot the new 1/8" fule line will go,
i use the primer for my terra -jet 400cc kohler, works great!!

By roadwolf on Unrecorded Date: Edit

rocko,
what kind of carb do you have floatbowl or a diaphram type? will it start the same way 2 consecutive days in a row?

By mr. tinker on Unrecorded Date: Edit

instead of using starting fluid try using carburetor cleaner to aid in starting it. its much easier on your engine and ignites easier than gasoline.some engines i have wont start cold either and instead of doing a lot of work to figure out why i just use the cleaner.

By Bruce on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Mine is the same way. I think it is due to the low volume of the fuel pump and how far it has to pull fuel and push it up to the carb. I installed a primer bulb on mine that helped somewhat. if it sits for a long time (week) then I prime it with a mix of gas and oil.

Nature of the beast!!!

Bruce

By Bob Graham on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Ok, so after two years of visiting this site, I finally found and bought a 6x6. My sister found it in western Pa, for 500 bucks. Body is great, motor runs good(8 hp Briggs), drives pretty well. It is an Attex and has the numbers "208TT" on both sides. New chains, good tires, new windshield, brand new upholstery. I know I got a great deal. I was wondering about a few things. based on the info I gave, can anyone answer these questions ? approximately what year is it ? What size motor (maximum) will it handle? Other than this, anything else you might shed some light on for me would be greatly appreciated. Took it down to the creek behind the house and did some riding, couldn't get under the bridge(windshield was too high), had a little trouble climbing the banks to get out, but a lot of fun was had by me and my 5 year old daughter. All the neighborhood kids meet me in the driveway when I get home from work now. anybody know how to make 'em go away for ten minutes so I can eat my dinner? Thank you for any input to the previous questions. Bob G.

By liflod (Liflod) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Rockey, if you are running a Mikuni carb with an enricher circuit for a choke, you need to check the choke cable and adjust it. My choke cables needed adjusted on my 440 and after that it started with no problem.

By roadwolf on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Bob G., why don't you post sum pic's of your 208TT? c'mon bob pleazzzzzze. dave#3 is probably dyin' to see them too. he told me after hiz briggs' went south he went to big bore in his machine.

By Bob Graham on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I don't have a digital camera. My sister, who found and inspected the Attex for me, took some pics of my Dad playing with it in Pittsburgh. I finally got delivery of it a week later. I'll try and figure out how to post them tomorrow evening.

By Bob Graham on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Just sent a couple of pics in of my new Attex 208TT. Don't know how long it takes to get them on the site, but I sent 'em.

By Don Kinyon (Oldnatva) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Bob G.-
Your 208tt (terrain tamer) is probably a late 1960s or early 70s vintage. Sounds like a great find! If I remember right, the same chassis was used for engines up to a 340 JLO single with no problems. The bigger models used a model 5000 transmission instead of the shaft/planetary setup in the 208, but more for convenience than strength. In fact, a lot of the old racers used the straight shaft from a 208tt to cut down the weight and rolling resistance of the machine. Looking forward to the pictures.
Take Care
Don

By Harry R Blair on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I have I believe a SuperChief 500 Attex, I would like any info on repairing it. It leaks in water, but engin runs good

Thanks Harry

By Paul on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I am in the process of SLOWLY restoring my Attex 440 Thunderchief. New top end on the 440, new chains, installed an adj. idler sprocket for front chains in place of rub bar, trans works great, and repaired few minor cracks in the body. It runs great, but the body does need some attention. Stains, faded, some discoloration, etc. Is there a method to restore the original shine or luster, or am I looking at a paint job? Any info would be appreciated.

By liflod (Liflod) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I would like to see pictures of your front chain idler setup. Rub bars are worn on mine and they need a better replacement.
As far as cleaning the body, I have used Scotchbrite pads and bleach to clean most of the stains off. You may be able to use rubbing compound and try to buff it to a shine. I wouldn't use a machine on it because the ABS will probably melt.

By david berger (Davidrrrd) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

MY SISTER ONCE BORROWED SOME MONEY FROM ME AND WAS WILLING TO PAY ME BACK INSTEAD BY SANDING MY ATTEX WITH STEAL WOOL AND DRYWALL PAPER,
(WHO SAYS IM A ROTTEN OLDER BROTHER)
IT LOOKED GREAT AND SHE STILL OWED ME 3/4 AN HR SO I HAD HER DO SOME YARD WORK,
(MY LANDLOARD NEVER FIGURED OUT WHAT HAPPENED)
TROUBLE IS THE SUN FADED IT AGAIN RETHER QUICKLY,
I WISH I TRYED SOMETHING,
UV PROTECTENT AUTO CAR WAX MAYBE,

By Paul on Unrecorded Date: Edit

David: Does your sister need another loan? (Just kidding!) Sounds like some elbow grease is in order, but the UV protectant is a good idea-thanx. Lance,I'll be doing some work on the Attex this Friday nite and will take some pictures of the idler sprockets and send them to you with any specs. Weren't hard to make and have lasted two years so far. Next challenge will be decal replacement, body sides and dash. Anyone know of a source? (I e-mailed Richard already, but have not heard back yet) I have a friend in the vinyl sign business that says he can duplicate the dash, but it sounds time-consuming- don't know if I can afford the beer bill for that. Thanks to all for the help.

By david berger (Davidrrrd) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

WELL HOPEFULLY YOUR BUDDY CAN DO ALL THE DECALS, AND IF THERE REALY GOOD MAYBE A QUANTITY IS IN ORDER, YOU CAN SUPLY EVERYONE ON RT6X6 WHO NEEDS THEM,
OR SEND SAMPLES TO RICHARD CLARK, HE MAY WISH TOO SDD THEM TO HIS SUPLY BINS

By George on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I'd be willing to buy some Attex decals too if that's any incentive.

George

By boregardsPaul on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I talked to the sign guy again last night and he thinks he can get the dash decal done for under $90.00. Going to take the Attex up to his shop after the weekend so he can start working on the decal in his spare time. Once it's in the computer, he can print them out at will. Hopefully, they'll turn out like the original. Mine is mostly in pretty good shape,beat up in spots but all text is ledgible, so he should be able to get a good template.

By roadwolf on Unrecorded Date: Edit

hey david, you sure are a mean big bro. but the way i heard it, is your sister was the one who got you dates from high school to colleage.

By david berger (Davidrrrd) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

actualy my sister and i have the same tast in women, she woldent share,

By GREATSOUNDZ on Unrecorded Date: Edit

HI. I HAVE JUST GOT MY FIRST 6X6. IT IS CALLED A ACTION H SCRAMBLER. I AM LOOKING FOR ANY INFO OR PICS. CAN ANYONE HELP ME?

By George on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Hey Everyone,

I just picked up a ST300 D on Ebay. It has the pre 70s body (mfuffler on driver's left). It has a T-20, #50 chains/sprokets and a Rotax 399 2cyl/2stroke (pull start with generator). With the exception of the ehaust headrers, everything appears to be either original equipment or modified quite professionally.
Does anyone know if Attex ever put Rotax engines in their AATVs and was the T-20 available before 1970?

Incidentally, the whole thing cost me $500. Aside from the bearings needing replacement and a missing floor pan and engine cover, the whole thing is complete. It has the old style flotation tires, they look fair. I also got the engine to run a few secs on quick start and one pull. I have an extra floor pan and engine over for a pre 70 so I figure onece all the !@#$%$!&? snow melts...I'll have a quick, easy restoration project

By liflod (Liflod) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I have never seen a Rotax in the Attex literature. Does it have the wood grain dash? Do the axles have the aluminium beariing housings or the Fafnir flangette bearing housings?

My ST300D has the power trans and #40 chain. I have an extra old style floor pan. Where is the emergency brake located? Is it on the transmission or on the front axles?

By Don Kinyon (Oldnatva) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

So, you're the one that got the st300d. It looked interesting, but you already had it by the time I saw the auction.

It almost has to be an update done by the owner. I don't remember ever seeing the old body style with a T20, or #50 chains. If you can post some pics, I'd like to see, and I'm sure others would as well.

By George on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Hey Guys,

Yes, I was the winner on the E-bay auction. It has a bits of the wood grain decal left on the dash. It also has the new flanges.

I actually was having a hard time sleeping one night when I found it on Ebay. I think getting your hands on a T-20 for 400-450$ is always a good idea...everything else was gravy. At the "buy in now" price, I did not think I would have long to mull it over.

I still need to check out the T-20 but the engine starts right up.

The thing must have been modified. There are no emergency brakes on it, the T-20 does not appear to be able to accommodate the discs on both sides and there are no discs on the front axels.

The guy I bought it from took it off a buddies hands as a favor. It sat in his barn a couple years and he never did anything with it. He has a nice Max and had no interest in the Attex.

Whoever did the mods did a great job. As a matter of fact, I'm inclined to believe that it's probably a newer Attex chassis installed in an older body. The only part that looks "home made" is the exhaust. The body is in pretty decent shape. The only crack I found was just under one head light. The bottom of the tub appears to have been re-inforced with a layer or two of fiber glass on the outside. There is no evidence to suggest (from the inside) that the fiberglass was applied as a repair.

I need to get pics. I keep my Attexes upstate NY. I'll go up again in a few weeks and get the pics for you.

I'm actually thinking of getting my other ST300 online this summer and selling/trading it for a small quad (80-90cc) for my son if anyone's interested. It has the original ATV 7000 tranny and JLO 297. And now, it'll have original balloon/flotation tires. The body is badly faded but has no cracks. Of all my Attexes, it's body is in the best shape, just not a pretty color anymore. I intend to paint it this summer as well.

By George on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Can anyone tell me the dimensions length, width) for a belt on a 74 Chief with the standard motor/clutch setup?

Thanks,

George

By Hayden McDowell (Haydenmc) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Does anyone know what size tires an Attex 252 Colt had on it stock? Its those three lug jokers. I am wanting to convert to a four lug system so I can use aluminum 4 wheeler rims and have more tire options. Do I need 8" or 10" wheels? Give me a size description of a good retro size to go to on wheels and tires using Richards adapter plates. Thanks Hayden

By George on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I have Goodyear Runamucks on my Colt. They are 22" outter diameter and 8" inner diameter and I believe they are 11" wide. You might be able to go up to 24" outter diameter but any bigger than that and the tops of the wheels will rub on the part of the tub that overhangs them. The original floatation tires I also have indicate they should be inflated until they reach a circumference of 65" but that is the tire's limit, not the Colt's. They actually had bigger tires you could buy back then called "FatCats". I'm not sure what their size was but the pictures I've seen indicate that the diameter was 3-4 inches greater than the standard floatation tire.

My experience would suggest that you could put any tire size combo that fits under the overhang but you need to consider the tire softness. Richard Clark told my the tires need to be very soft on an Attex because the bodies are of older materials and are not as strong as the contemporary Max and Argo. He even advised me against putting Rawhides on my Attexes.

Hope this helps,

George

By J.R.Fisher on Unrecorded Date: Edit

We need to find someone who can do repairs on our Attex 500 Superchief. We are in So. Cal. If some one knows anyone, even in the surrounding states, we would greatly appreciate it. Thanks

By Attex Bob on Unrecorded Date: Edit

What kind of repairs? What year Attex.

By randy c (Test1st) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Ok here we go! Ever since I was a kid watching cartoons on Saturday morning and the show the banana splits come on the air I have wanted a 6 wheeler. Now im 40 something and my dad and I just bought 4 of them. All attex . All I know about them I have read on this site so if I say something wrong or don’t have the right line of thinking let me know PLEASE. The first one is a chief with a 440? Dual carb. Wood grain on dash. Head temp gauges, speedo etc. 5 bolt wheels t20 trans. Body green. I am told this as kind of rare. This one is said to run. The only problem is the trans. Said to have a KEY broken on the left side of trans(pull trans, split case, replace key, put back, ride) body great no leaks or cracks seen or told about. Also windshield & rollbar. No pics yet but will post soon as get them all home.
Second one, same thing only has single carb. Said new never put together, everything there just needs assembled no rollbar or windshield.
Third one all there and motor said to run what size ????? body fair axel bent fair rubber needs new chains plus bunch of tlc if going to run.
Forth one older model 3 bolt wheels body fair, missing things, different trans
So there ya go got our winter cut out for us. Any advice

By Attex Bob on Unrecorded Date: Edit

WOW!!!!!!!! What a score Randy!!!! Congratulations!!! I'm drooling over the duel carb one!!! Any 6x6 is way fun to drive. You will have many hours of fun riding.

There are many people on this board willing to help you out with your restoration projects. If you ever want to sell a lower half green body let me know. Good luck and have fun.

By liflod (Liflod) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Sounds like alot of fun. Please send some pictures when yo get them all home. If you need any assistance, post a message or send an email. Most people on this board have built a few machines and we will be able to answer just about any question you have.
The key broken may be something as simple as the pin of the gear shift that would prevent one side from going into gear. That is very easily repaired since it sounds like you have extra parts.
My advice is work on one machine at a time. Pull the best one in the garage and get all 6 wheels off the ground. That way you can spin the tires, check chain tension and check for other problems.

By kush on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Randy,

Post some pics I'm jealous. Can you post some measurements on the roll bar & windshield?

Let me know how that dual carb machine works out.

Does anyone know the power differecne between a single and dual carb 440? Is it worth the conversion or make the one carb just bigger?

By Attex Bob on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Kush: From what I've heard it's around 5 more HP with no more mods.

By randy c (Test1st) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

liflod:
That’s exactly what it was. But didn’t fig that out till had it out and on the bench and split. The good news is got all the pieces out. Plus after 2 hours of trying this and that we fig out how to put trans back together. Not bad for not having a manual. Hope to have it back together and riding by this weekend. Just as an update the third one is also thunder chief (yellow)with 440 dual carb. Finally got to see it on fri afternoon this one needs a lot of work mostly part replacement so not so much work as deep pockets. posted one pic in my profile. can i post more than 1. if not i will post on my web space from isp and post address once fig out what it is. ok 1st question ... how do i tell for sure what model/year attex this is so can order manual from route6x6. kush,will also get measurements for rollbar it looks very easy to reproduce and mount

By randy c (Test1st) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

heres the web site with more photos of attex number one http://randyc11.mystarband.net. i know its probably posted somewhere but could some one tell me how much atf goes in a t-20 thanks r

By Attex Bob on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Cool Attex Randy!!!! One quart of ATF. Could you please take some pictures of the dash for me. Thanks

By kush on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Randy whose make and what type of Guages ar in your dash. It looks like a tach & Speedo but what are the smaller gauges?

By Steve Carrett (Stevo) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Hi Kush,
The spedo and tach gauges should be VDO and I am guessing that the heat and amp gauges are VDO, but with Attex labled on them (I could be wrong about the heat and amp gauges).