Subtopic	Posts		Updated
	Archive through July 21, 2000	1
	Archive through July 2, 2002	35

By David Sanders on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I got an e-mail back today, from one of the engineers at Recreatives,,responding to my question about imformation on the 27 hp Max IV,,and also, the new bearing design, that Recreatives is looking into, for all the futute Max models.

This is the email I was sent:

"We are looking to have a 27hp engine available sometime this year as long as all the testing goes well. A better bearing system is in the design process. It has been proven, however, that proper bearing maintenance will prolong bearing life and leakage extensively."

By Mark Muranyi on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Guys, I am currently doing some prelimenary work to install a Geo engine in one of my Terra Tigers. It will be in the rear. I also am designing a new transmission that will complement that engine. Due to other projects it most likely won't be done for Humphrey 2003 but should be by 2004.

By david berger (Davidrrrd) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

wow mark!
sounds like it'l need a realy tall shifter, heh heh heh
like in them ol 1970's t-shirts!

By mark harding (Promoza) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

trying to find 2 break calipers to fit either a attex or a Max they look the same if anyone can help
thanks mark

By John Martin on Unrecorded Date: Edit

David--When a person bores the cylinder out they must do one of two things: A. Buy a larger new piston to fit the new bore. B. Use a machined sleeve that fits the new larger bore in the block and it allows you to use the standard size piston. When you bore the engine block you are increasing the displacement i.e., cubic centimeters (CC) or cubic inches (CI) which means you will have more power with the larger piston provided adjustment to air/fuel mixture is compensated for the new volume that your motor is compressing. A small draw back I believe is that you lose some of the integrity of the engine block. This comes from the amount of heat produced by the larger bore and of the slightly less material to dissipate the increased heat. I think the better way to rebuild is to bore the engine block and then re-sleeve it back to the dimensions of the original size piston. If you want more power I would suggest a higher compression piston and a good air cleaner/ free flowing exhaust system or for two strokes a performance expansion chamber for the exhaust. As far as the 2 stroke and 4 stroke cycle engine explanation goes, they are related to the number of times the sparkplug fires on the compression cycle. A 2 stroke’s sparkplug fires every time the piston comes up (the second stoke is the piston going down) while the 4 stroke's sparkplug only fires every other time the piston comes up. The 4 stoke engine uses the 1st stroke down for the intake of air/fuel mixture through the intake valve. 2nd stroke is back up a hair past Top Dead Center where the sparkplug fires and ignites the mixture. 3rd Stoke is the force of the explosion pushing the piston back down. 4th Stroke is the piston pushing the spent gases up and out through the exhaust valve, now your back to the start of the 1st stroke where the intake valve opens back up for the new air/fuel mixture to start the cycle over again. The 2 stoke motors do not have proper valves that are lifted by a camshaft like the 4 stroke has, instead it uses reed valves or another type of one-way flow valve to let the air/fuel mixture into the cylinder. The four stoke has proper valve(s) that let air/fuel into and other valve(s) that lets the spent exhaust out of the cylinder. The 2 strokes are a simpler design with less moving parts but the draw back is the torque curve is not nearly as smooth as the 4 stoke. The 2 stokes do have their places, you need to keep them revved up in their optimum powerband where they can be very fast if set up right! Hopes this helps you and whoever to understand a little more about what's going on inside your engine.