By Dave Beeman (Dave_beeman) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

My machine is rapidly approaching the 400 hour mark, and I am thinking at least 2 of the chains need replacing, as since the last time I lubed them, I noticed that they seem to be starting to ride on the cross members. I am wondering what kind of chain to use as replacement, as the nearest dealer is now 300+ miles away thanks to Points West Argo. I know it is double row chain, but I want to get whatever will last the longest, and stretch the least. I don't know if 400 hours is a lot for these machines, and if this is about the time the chains should be replaced, I bought the machine used last summer, and have put about 100 hours on it in the last 9 months. I love this machine, and I am looking for hints as to what else I should be on the look out for at this hour level. Also about how much will the chains cost, as I am thinking I should probably replace them all, even if it is one a month, being as I am on a budget, it does have a new centrifical clutch as the old one shattered at New Years while riding close to home at -20. Thanks in advance, you guys are a great source of info, wish there were more of us around so I could stop feeling like such an Elitist.

Dave Beeman

By Russell Lee (Bigkodiak) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Dave
My BF has 335 hours on it. I just ordered two new front chains because they were just too loose. When I went to replace them I found a bad bearing in the idler shaft. front 2 chains cost me $35.00 ea.
Now I have found that I need to replace 2 other axle bearings as they are about done as well as the middle and rear chain on that side. The rear 60 chain is going to cost $65.00 ea. and the middle chain (double 50p) is going to be like $58.00.
As far as other problems look at your bearings, chain tensioner slides ($4.00 ea.) and general maintenance items.
Over the course of the summer I am going to replace all the bearings and gaskets on the machine and then at 500-600 hrs I am planning a total tear down and restore with some added engine work to boost the HP.
Russ

By argogeru on Unrecorded Date: Edit

russ, dave,
Save alot of money and buy chain from shoup manufacturing out of kankakee illinois. It is alot cheeper than buying it from a dealer or any where else I have found. And whatever you do, make sure it is USA made chain. the forgien stuff will stretch out within 20-30 hours and be no good. Dont be fooled by the box that has an american company printed on the front either, read the fine print to find out where it is manufactured. Their is a reason american chain is more expensive than forgien, you get what you pay for. Shoup Manufacturing:
1-800-627-6137
www.shoupparts.com

By Dave Beeman (Dave_beeman) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Thanks guys, I got with the dealer here who was forced out, and he says he still has plenty of chain, he uses American Diamond Plate, he says it is the only chain he will use. I am replacing the 2 streched ones, and the 2 on the opposite side, cost $236, everything is bigger in Alaska. I like the looks of the Shoup chain, but figured it would cost me about $140 per 10 feet after shipping. I will be the first to admit I have no experience with chains, I have been keeping them well lubed, but I am wondering if the donut spinning is what caused just the one side to get so stretched. I am wondering are the primary chains off the transmission the same type as all of the drive chains? I really appreciate the help you guys have given.

Dave

By Dave Beeman (Dave_beeman) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Well, I changed out the 4 chains, what a chore, I think I need to invest in a tool that will help stretch the 2 ends together, as it was I used ratcheting cargo straps and parachute cord to stretch them together, hands and back are killing me. My bearings seem to be ok, they are lubed with heavy marine grease. I plan on replacing the rest of the chains over the course of the summer, not looking forward to the 2 very front ones, the one that goes under the battery looks to be a pain. Thanks again for the advice.

Dave Beeman

By Russell Lee (Bigkodiak) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Dave
You can buy a special chain tool to join the 2 ends or you can take a pair of vice grips, grind down the jaws till they fit between the links. Squeeze them together until the links are close enough to insert the master link.
Russ

By David Keeso (Argomag) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

What is the best chain lube to use on the ARGOs. The guy who services mine uses Castrol spray and says its the best. Is their something better? Also, their is a lot of crap that builds up in the area between the framework and the sprockets, springs where the chain rides. Can this all be cleaned by using a power washer? I know nothing can be damaged by doing this but will it work. Also, how important is it to lube the chains (I think they are the idler chains) right beside the brake disk?

By Dave Beeman (Dave_beeman) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I really like this stuff called jet lube WLD extreme pressure lubricant, it sprays on very wet and coats really good, and when the "carrier" agent evaporates, it becomes a very sticky heavy grease that won't come off in water. I try and lube my chains anytime they start to dry out, at 6 bucks a can for lube, it is a hell of a lot cheaper than new chains. I find the idler chains need lubed the most often, I think it is due to the heat from the rotors. Preventive maintenance is the key to savings in the long run, anyone who has used farm equipment can tell you that.

Dave Beeman
Eielson AFB Alaska

By Attex Bob on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Dave: The chain lube you should use will depend on the type of enviroment the chains will see. For instance, if your AATV will ever see sand or lava type of grit I would never use a sticky type of lube. I personally only use a dry type of lube on my chains, like chain wax or a graphite type of lube. A buddy of mine likes to boil his chains in wax once in a while. The wax gets between the pin and rollers. I think that is a great idea, but it is too much work for me!!! The AATV chain is a lot more protected than a motorcycle chain, but it also sees a lot more water. If you think about the enviroment the chains work in (dirt, grit, mud, water) its a wonder they work as good and as long as they do.

By david berger (Davidrrrd) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

actualy guys the lube we put on the outside dose very little to lube them, it dose keep them from rusting ect..ect.. and from sezing up but the actuale chain life and evenuale streach is inside in the pins and sleaves and boiling in wax as in the above post as well as in heated oil will get into thoughs pins,
also keep your chains running as strate as posable,
they will work on stagerd sprokets but that streses one side of the pin more for a time and will where the chain quicly , i had a bad sproket stager in my max for a time, i found i needed to put bushings between the axle ends and the fraim to align my sprokets just right and keep them aligned,
so if your shure you had your chains properly adjusted and they streched too quickly take another look at the path it follows,

By RonW on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Does anyone know if a good chain lube comes in a can (like a paint can). It seems to me there's a lot of waste and mess with spray lubes. I think it would get more lube on more of the chain if you could apply the lube with a paint brush.Ron W.

By david berger (Davidrrrd) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

ron lot's of types of grease come in cans and plastic tubes and it's as good at lubing chains as anything else, paintable too!