By George on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Just thought I would give you guys some help. A lot of what I see appearing in this section concerns bearing, chain or sprocket questions. Please understand that I am an engineer with almost 20 years experience with these items. A lot of what I see posted regarding these items is mistated or misunderstood. I do not want to appear arrogant, but if you need help and are willing to answer some simples questions, then I may be able to help you unravel the mysteries of these components.

God Bless All 6 Wheeled Vehicles,

George
gsparks562@aol.com

By Craig Wentling (Craig2) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

1. How do you measure chain. Example my owners manual says to adjust chain when it has one-eighth play. How do you measure this ?
2. Is it better to have a loose chain or one that is to tight, if I measure it wrong.

By Gary Harper (Garyinvt) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I would say it is better to be a little loose than too tight. It will wear less on the sprockets.

By Ernie Savinsky (Lucky45) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

GEORGE:

the stock max II chain adjuster is a cheap teeth engagement thing held in place by a crummy spring.

Harsh enviroment,dirt,water nature of use yeilds short life 100 hrs max before bearings and adjusters fail if you ride your max where it was intended to go!

Maxing is high mantenance hobby. God help anyone trying to use one to make a living. You fix one more than you ride it! cheap sources of premium
replacement parts

By George on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Craig. Measurements for chain are as follows. Chain is counted in pitch as far as length. From center of one rivet to the center of the next is one pitch. To find the distance (if you know the size) put the first number if 2 digit over 8 and break down the fraction. If chain number is 3 digit use the first 2 numbers. Example #50 chain is 5/8 pitch. As chain is used it stretches because of load etc... think of it as a bell shaped curve with somewhat of a flat spot at top. This flat spot represents the point at which the initial stretch has occured and chain wear has not yet become critical. During this flat spot you will still have some stretch.
The play is simply the amount of stretch over the interval. This "play" is measured from the bottom of the groove sprocket where the roller touches it. ***REMEMBER THAT THIS SLACK WILL BE PLUS THE RECOMMENDED TOLERANCE BY THE FACTORY>**** For example: My Max says that the range is between 1/2 to 5/8. The 1/8 of play should be within this range not below it or above it. If your chain is too tight or too loose you will have similar problems and additional ones depending on whether it is too tight or too loose. Either way you will create excessive sprocket wear.
To measure this distance I admit I guess, but then again I have done this a long time.
You really should raise the entire vehicle off the ground so that the tires are suspended in the air. Take the vehicle out of geaar and rotate the tires by hand until all of the "play" is on bottom. Since it is difficult to get to the chain drives and sprockets you can take your measurment as follows. Measure the diameter of the sprocket (Bottom of the u shaped area where roller touches to the bottom of same on the other side.) On my Max they are the same size. measure the distance between the 2 sprockets from center of axle to center of axle. Divide this by 2. This will give you the center of the chain which should have the greatest amount of play. Measure from this point to the bottom of the roller on the chain on the top part of the sprocket, subtract the diameter of the sprocket and the high side of the tolerrance given by the factory. If you are over tighten chain to the mid point of the tolerance. If you are under loosen to the same.
If you do not have the same size sprockets give me a yell and I will tell you how to do it.

By George on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Ernie. I agree, but you know my MAX II does not have springs on the adjusters. The truth is that you can get a lot more out of the bearings, chain etc... if you spend a little time on maintanence and if you underestand what proper maintanence is. I ride my MAX II through some pretty tough terrain, in some pretty harsh weather. (Big on duck hunting.) Yes I am in the process of fine tuning some of it, but after all nothing is perfect. So faar I have noted some things that I would change in the design of the machine.
First - I would ask the stamping supplier to put 45 or 90 degree zerks in the flanges to make it easier to relube. Second I would do the same on some of the internal bearings and sprocket zerks.
Third I would use a heavier chain probably 50-2R less stretch. Fourth I would not use O-Ring chain because it does not really help with the chain wear problem. (Mostly improper adjusting and residual water on the side plates.)Fifth I would switch from a triple lip sealed outer bearing to a double lip seal gothic arch design. Sixth I would explain what chain and wire rope lube is so that people would realize how easy it is to take care of their chain. Seventh I would use anti sieze on the throttle and choke assembly cable before putting the cable in the cable housing as this almost does away with the problem of freezing and lubrication.(Also helps keep water out.) Eigth I would make the check plug on the T-20 a little easier to get to. I would make some standard ddash pop-outs so that you do not have to constantly drill to add something. Tenth I would mount 3/8" eyebolts around the top of the cargo area so that it is easier to bungee stuff inot the cargo area.

But in response to the chain adjusters. If you really want a good chain adjuster check out a company called Mae West. They make some high impact resistant polycarbonate material that will outlast about anything available. It is expensive and you would have to machine it yourself, but it will last longer than the chain it adjusts. Just remember if you do not maintain proper tension on the chain, it will wear out your chain instead of the adjusters.

God Bless and Have a Merry Christmas,

George

By George on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Gary. I would have to disagree. Sprockets will wear either way, but they will wear out faster if chain is too loose.

God Bless,

George

By George on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Gary. I would have to disagree. Sprockets will wear either way, but they will wear out faster if chain is too loose.

God Bless,

George

By Tim Wafer (Iflyrctoo) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

George
What lube do you recommend for the chains?
Tim

By George on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Tim,

I like NAPA Chain and Cable Lube. It adheres well and comes in an a spray can. Anything will really do it is just kind of what works best for your type of operating enviroment. Remeber it takes trial and error to discover the appropriate interval between application. If we all used our ATV's the same it would be a lot easier.

Hope this helps.

God Bless,

George

By Ernie Savinsky (Lucky45) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I was talking about the little arch shaped spring
that keeps the adjuster teeth engaged. They are OK when new but will not hold adjustment after the edges of the 2 wedges that engage are worn. The plastic rubbing bolck is not a problem.

Location also Try to get the 1/4 nuts on the bottom of the frame rails when changing the adjusters if you want to have real fun @#$&&^$$%

By david berger (Davidrrrd) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

YUP BIN THERE ERNIE, WRECKED A BUNCH OF ADJUSTERS, AND THERE JUST TOO EXPENCIVE TO KEEP BYEING SO I TRYED DRILLING AND BOLTING THEM,
(WORKS A WHILE-TIL THAY JUST BREAK OFF ANYWAY)
ALSO IN A PINCH I GOT THE BACK ONE'S WELDED ACROSS THE TOP BY PETE CAGLE AND HIS TRUSTY MIG-WELDER, THIS IS STILL HOLDING! EVEN THOUGH I SWORE ID REPLACE THEM AS SOON AS I GOT HOME, IN THE FROUNT I REPLACED THEM WITH IDELER SPROKETS, THERE BULET PROOF NOW!,

By Ernie Savinsky (Lucky45) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Dave: if I WASN'T so lazy I'd weld some screw adjusters on the factory ones!

By Craig Wentling (Craig2) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

George, thanks for the info on chain adjustmnet
and measurements. Was very helpful. I didn't respond sooner because I was being overworked by my employer. You know eat, work, sleep, eat, work,
sleep, routine. Thanks again and Happy New Year.

By DAVIDRRRD on Unrecorded Date: Edit

HMMM, YOU KNOW ERNIE, THATS A PRITY INTERESTING IDEA, IT MIGHT BE JUST THE SORT OF THING THAT WOULD MAKE THEM WORTH SOMTHING

By sam keys on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Everyone:

Why do you just buy,,,yes buy a set of Richards adjusters. they replace the whole factory adjusters with a new sprocket idler adjustors

Sam keys

By George on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Sam. You took the words out of my mouth. The first time I have to replace them that is just what I had planned on doing. I could not have suggested a better solution. However, proper tension will save some of the wear on the adjusters as well.
Craig. You are more than welcome. I do understand the work thing. In my job no one really tells me when to work, but I know if I do not get certain things done, it is not a good thing.
Ernie. I still say it is not a spring, but you are right. Also since I am new and have never replaced them I will concede the idea that they may be a problem. A lot of things look good on paper, but tend to really suck in practice. Take care.

God Bless,

George

By Brad Dunn (Lazerman) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Anybody have any ideas on how to get to the axel bearing on the left rear other than removing the motor on a Max II to grease it?

Brad
A new used, Max owner in Maryland.

By tropicjungleboy on Unrecorded Date: Edit

HEY BRAD: YOU SHOULD USE A FLEXIBLE GREASE HOSE TO GET THIS GREASE FITTING THRU THE GAP BETWEEN CLUTCH AND TRANNY PULLEY.............BE PACIENCE......HAPPY BOUNCING!!!!!!!!!

By Brad Dunn (Lazerman) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Thanks for the advice!
I have a flexible hose on my grease gun but didn't think it would fit in there, but I'll give it a try. Thanks again!