Subtopic	Posts		Updated
	Archive through August 30, 1999	1
	Archive through June 16, 2002	19

By bugaboo on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I have a 2000 Argo bigfoot and can't keep the left brake lever properly adjusted. I had it at the dealer several times and even had the seals in the master cylinder changed as it was apparantly leaking. It started out fine but as usual soon after the left lever comes back way further than the right. Also after getting it back from the dealer one of the brakes seemed to lock up and my son had to drive it with the right brake held on to keep it straight and this caused the brakes overheating and he had to shut it off and let the fan cool the brakes for a bit and that seemed to fix the overheating but still cant keep the levers even

By jdhoath argoguru on Unrecorded Date: Edit

you need to adjust the piston that goes into the master cylynder. if it is pulling do to brake drag, that side brake piston is to tight, the lever is pushing on the piston going into the master cylynder applying constant braking to that side. two wrenches will easily solve your problem. you do not want instant response when pulling on the levers, their should be 1 to 2 inches of pull before you see braking results. the seals probably went bad on that side do to the excesive heat from constant brake drag, your dealer should also be able to resolve the problem rather handily, if not he or you need to call somebody who does know. if the brake is locking up it is adjusted to tight.

By mike martindale (Wetsu) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

i have a 99' bigfoot,as most of you know. my question is,how many hours should i get on my brake pads???and is there anywhere i can get a new set without going through ODG or my old dealer? right now they look like they ( the pads )are starting to overlap the discs.and i know that ain't a good thing. the right side is worse than the left because it always pulled to the left,and i had to keep pulling on the right to keep it straight. any info will be helpful.

By Tim O'Keefe on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Mike I changed the pads on my bigfoot at about 300hrs. I just figured it was necessary. There was actually very little wear on them and it was a waste of time and a lttle money. P.S I ride very hard too.

By Tim O'Keefe on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Mike I changed the pads on my bigfoot at about 300hrs. I just figured it was necessary. There was actually very little wear on them and it was a waste of time and a lttle money. P.S I ride very hard too.

By David Keeso (Argomag) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I don't know exactly when, but we changed the brake pads on the Magnum somewhere between 490 hrs-650 (approx what is on there now). Im pretty sure it was around the 540 range, but Im not sure. The brakes were pretty worn and they had to be entirly rebuilt. Once they were done, they made a huge difference. Another thing was that we replaced the origional tires. We got the black rimms, and the new runnasucks. WHat a difference it made.

By mike martindale (Wetsu) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

thanks david,and tim. right now i only have about 154 hours on my bigfoot,and i did find my owners manual.it suggested to check them at 100hrs,then every 25 after that.since these are the hydrolic,should that make a difference? and where did you guys get your pads from? and david if i ran runnasucks,,,wouldn't that make my bigfoot a vanguard???????? since i've got rawhide's now.
from what little i got from the manual is changing these pads a pain in the seat cover?or is it as easy as it says? thanks for the info.till next time mike

By Roger Smith on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Mike, as long as the pads get changed before they get into the metal backing.. that's the main thing. As with any brake job, visual inspection tells you how much brake lining is left (they're not very thick to begin with). Pull the cover and shine a light between the caliper halves to check the brake lining thickness. You can get the pads out by removing the two cotter pins on each caliper and rotating the pads around till they will come out towards the floor pan. I've had mine out a few times cleaning chain lube off of them. If you want the calipers off, the bolts are accessed through the hole in the rotors.

The brake lining is some of the hardest metallic stuff (long lasting) I've seen, I'd be inclined to go with the factory pads.

By Another Rider (Another_rider) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Changing the pads is snap. When you're in there, make sure the rotors have no grease, oil, grime, brake fluid, etc on them. Last set I purchased from my dealer, 5 months ago, set me back a whopping 20.00 bucks. I don't think that price was out of line in any way shape or form. Also, remember to readjust your stick travel if needed once you've replace the pads.

By mike martindale (Wetsu) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

i think i can handle 20.00 for the pads.i hope my dealer has some in stock.roger so far the metal is still away from the discs so i think i might be in good shape there.also no noticable grooves,so maybe just the pads will work.thanks for the input,by the way roger i lied to you at the ride about my mesenger i'll e you tonite to tell you what it really is,to many keystones i think.anyway sorry. mike

By David Keeso (Argomag) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Mike, I have never really thought about it. I guess it would be theretically a vanguard if you have runnasucks. However, check the vehicle specs in any brochure and see if they are the same length. THe Bigfoot had a slightly different frame size to accomodate the rawhide 3s.

I personally have never even touched my brakes--all argo work except cleaning out the inside, draining, and adding oil are done by Terry Sugg (used to be the Grey Bruce dealer, but retired-now working as a property manager for my dads development and owns 2 argos.)

I do know though that once they are done, make sure you check your brake fluid levels. They should not be low, but check anyways. If your lever travel starts getting really far, but soon goes back to normal, you need fluid. I learned this the hard way. I had to pump by brakes really hard before I started and eventally, I slammed into a tree because I couldn't stop the ARGO and by pulling the other lever, it spun the thing around and i crashed. Funny thing about it is though that the metal thing where the hood screw is, got bent so the hood didn't stay on right. After We rolled the ARGO last spring, it fits on snugg. It is actually a bit hard to get on. but it aint going anywhere.

By Eddie Beddingfield on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Yes it would be the same as a VANGUARD II except for the engine. Everything else is the same.

By David Keeso (Argomag) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

The vanguard and bigfoot aren't different are they?? I thought they were the same engine. The vanguard 1 is different but the vanguard 2 should be the same. IS every thing the same including the drive chain setup?/ I know the bigfoot has the rc50 chains in front and the narrower ones in the back.

By Eddie Beddingfield on Unrecorded Date: Edit

David the diff is 2 hp. it is the same engine, frame ,width etc. the only thing that is on B. F. is 25" tires 'Front bearing extensions,and 2 more h.p. The only diff in Vanguard and Vanguard II is hydralic brake system. Eddie

By mike martindale (Wetsu) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

david since i've had my bigfoot,it has only been to the dealer once.andthat was to find out why it always pulled to the right.when it left the dealer,it still pulled to the right.even in water.since then he has been just a parts guy.i have done all the work on it up to this point.thank god i found this site.the owners manual is helpful,but i get a better understanding from 6x6,than any book.
anyway i have not had a vangaurd 1,or 2,i have seen a few,and if memory serves i believe the vang.has the 16 horse motor,doesn't it? i was kidding about putting those runnasucks on my bigft.unless they come out with 25 in.tire.then i might reconsider.but that is for another post.as for the brakes i'll be checking with my parts guy's to see if they have any in stock.tommorrow,i wish my wife would let me bring my argo into the house so i could reread these post,so i know i'd be doing the job right. once again thanks for all the advice,i know it will be very useful. mike/wetsu

By Damen T.Hill (Argoss) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Kevin, i experinaced the same problem on my 1973 argo supersport my right stick to was also doing the same thing i found out that the nut on the lever that squeezes the calipers together don't know what its called but it has two ballbearings in it well on the adjusting nut on that is sloted for a cotterpin and the cotter pin had broken and fallen out it's about a 30 minute fix max. all you have to do is remove your fire wall.And then find the lever that squeezes the calipers together you can't miss it if you just move the stick forward and back. you will probily see that the lever on the caliper is moving way father than it should be all you have to do to fix this is adjust the nut in the center of the lever with the stick all the way up to the dash till the nut is HAND tight you should now have the factory amount of travel. Then just stick a cotter pin in the hole in the bolt on the lever making sure that the slots on the nut lineup with the hole in the the bolt and then bend over the ends of the cotter pin. Sounds and looks more complicated than it is!

Damen Hill
(argoss)

By David Keeso (Argomag) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

The brakes in my magnum were overhauled about 2-2.5 years ago and not a huge amount of hours put on since (maybe 200 hrs ) and at one point, i had problems with the brake fluid. I had no left brakes one day and ended up driving the ARGO into a tree because I couldn't stop it. I stupidly pulled the right brake too hard going down the driveway and the whole thing lurched to the right and into a big balsam fur tree. I then realized that it just needed fluid. BOth were pretty low so I filled them and was back in business. I had a container of the right fluid then but have since run out and I can't find brake fluid that you are supposed to use. The label on the air filter thing says it uses dot 5 silicone brake fluid with dow coring -do not mix with regular argo brake fluid. I can find dot 5 silicone fluid easily but none have that dow coring stuff. What do I do? I need more fluid (not urgently but withing the next 10 riding hours on the machine.) Should I contact ODG and get them to send me some or what. WHat is regular argo brake fluid? Can I use just dot 5 silicone without having to bleed the brake system etc? Can the dow coring stuff be mixed with fluid that doesn't have the same stuff in it?

Any help is appreciated. The brake system is hydralic and the new pads that were installed are from I think the response model. They squeek a lot but they are really good.

By roadwolf on Unrecorded Date: Edit

david k,
dot5 is compatible with dot3 & 4 seals. dot 5 is compatible with aircraft and gokart seales using organic brake fluid (the red stuff). dot3 & 4 and aircraft brake fluid & seals hate each other. fluss your argo fluid before using dot5 or just top off your argo fluid with 3 or 4.

By David Keeso (Argomag) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

so the dow coring stuff doesn't matter? I can simply just top off the fluid cylendars with dot 3 without the dow coring stuff whatever that is?

Thanks

By Roger Smith on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Why not just use any DOT 5 fluid, if that's what's in it now.