| Subtopic | Posts | Updated | ||
| Archive through August 23, 1999 | 5 | ||
| Archive through January 29, 2001 | 3 | ||
| Archive through October 3, 2002 | 18 |
     By John Hamilton on Unrecorded Date: Edit |
Just got back online!Thanks for the information guys.Sorry to say...CLUTCH "PACKS" ARE ON THE INSIDE!If those are what the manuel are NOT talking about...I'm wrong,simple as that.However it seems nobody here has ever actually rebuilt a DIFFERENTIAL.You do have an open differential in the ARGO tranny.This and the independant brakes are what allows the ARGO to turn.To have this requires spider gears,CLUTCH PACKS,etc.This is what I thought the manuel was talking about.THEN AGAIN this "thread"was not about tranny specs but about CHAINS so let this rest.
| By jdhoath argoguru on Unrecorded Date: Edit |
john,
I rebuilt my 82 argo tranny, no clutch packs on the inside. let it rest.
| By Roger Smith on Unrecorded Date: Edit |
Ok, I'll let it rest in a sec.
"To have this requires spider gears,CLUTCH PACKS,etc."
An open differential doesn't need clutch packs, unless it's a limited slip model. And the Argo's differential gears happen to be planetary sets.
--------------
"I DO KNOW that without changing out the pads on the ARGO tranny...a T-20 could easily go much,much farther.The average of "3 times longer" is just THAT! I have a little more than "a clue" as to what I am saying."
Thanks for the chuckle.
----------------------
Ya know John, sometimes I learn the most when I say little and focus on other's input. This is an occasion for you to do just that.
| By John Hamilton on Unrecorded Date: Edit |
THANKS FOR THE INFO GUYS!!I can say I've learned something about the ARGO transmission now.So this thing also has Sun gears like a T-20,right?Glad to give you a "chuckle"...I like it when people have fun..even on my account.
Where has ODG BEEN IN BUSINESS for 60 years jdhoath?That would place them back in the 40's,right.That is not what ODG SAYS.....THEY SAY 1962....THAT IS 40 EXACTLY,NOT 60.22 YEARS IS A BIG DIFFERENCE.Also of note is that they developed the AMPHICAT tranny at THAT time.
Did anyone ever figure out which "8X8" driven by a T-20...that was mentioned earlier was or was made by,yet?
Roger..I agree with you!!If you only knew......
| By david berger (Davidrrrd) on Unrecorded Date: Edit |
john hamilton, yess the 8x8 was homeade after an argo like design, allmost all aluminum!
hey amphicat had lot's of diferent tranys, can you narrow it down? i'd like to know,
| By david berger (Davidrrrd) on Unrecorded Date: Edit |
mr smith,
yup but lets not forget planetarys and sun gears are in max trany too, they both use diferetials and nether company has true 6 wheele drive too sell, thats unless you count that loud ugly slow centar from ODG,( i don't)
| By ISAAC EISENMAN (Tropicjungleboy) on Unrecorded Date: Edit |
HEY PLASTICMASTER (DAVID):
did i miss something????.....my max ll when i lift both tire bench (l/r) on air and try to turn on forward by hand the right tire bench also the left tire bench turn at same speed FORWARD..and if someone try to catch any tire at left bench ALSO ALL TIRES LOCATED AT RIGHT BENCH GET FROZEN....to me that's true 6x6 drive....maybe you need to adjust UPPER plunger on t-20 to avoid slippage between tire bench whenever yout t-20 is at forward and both sticks ON FULL AHEAD.......the reason is simple...t-20 works as a reverse gear device...therefore if you get slipagge on upper plunger's drum the output drive shaft (l/r) will loose contact from common input shaft so this brake action will act as a clutch........the planetay gear on t-20 are only a reduction gear ratio device....yeah i will like to see an argo big foot with true 6 wheel drive device....(not with t-20) but with actual 2 reduction ratio selection... that way it will be the "choice"...actual t-20 reduction factor put "to much" stress on drive belt when you push it hard!!!!
| By jdhoath argoguru on Unrecorded Date: Edit |
hey Roger,
if the t-20 can last up to 3 times longer, then why is their so many people discussing their problems with it on the board. not to much questioning on repair problems with the argo tranny. amphicat trannys were not odg's first product either.
what "pads" are you talking about on an argo tranny? must be brake pads.
| By John Hamilton on Unrecorded Date: Edit |
I said it....not Roger.Perhaps what you guys need to do is take the FACTORY COURSE in ARGO maintenance.You get to send atleast ONE person to ODG to do so for free if you become a dealer.Atleast that is what was expressed to me when I thought about becoming a dealer.The problem with the T-20 is people do not service it like they should.Then again that is what an ARGO dealer does for their patrons when compared to MOST RI dealers.
The reason I thought the ARGO had clutches IN THE TRANSMISSION is because I was TOLD it had a differential...with variable slip.I have been told I and the ODG rep I spoke to are wrong.I'll take the people on this board for their word because the odds are stacked against the ODG rep..and myself(not now).What do they know anyways.
Great to here something about the 8X8.Aluminum......light yet strong...interesting.
By the way the "MAX" brand does indeed have true sixwheel drive...to a degree.The "ARGO" brand also does but to a lesser degree.If you apply enough brake power to both sides...they both spin nomatter what.That is unless a chain is broke or the motor doesn't have enough power to turn the wheels,etc.This works for ..oddly enough the OPEN AND LIMITED-SLIP differentials on cars,trucks.You are "tricking" the driverain as such.Don't believe me...try it.This won't work quite the MAX but it does in certain cases for the ARGO,although NOT with the brakes FULLY engaged...more of a "feathering approach".Then again this is all REHASH and doesn't really matter.Both machines are what they say they are be it 6X6 or 8X8 with someone that knows how to drive them and understand how they work ...or not.
LET IT REST or start a new thread!!!
| By david berger (Davidrrrd) on Unrecorded Date: Edit |
YES WE ARE REHASHING, I GUESS IM SPLITTING HAIRS BECAUSE I SAID T-20'S AINT TRUE 6 WHEEL DRIVE, BUT WHERE DOSE THAT DRIVE GO IF YOU NEED TO ALTER YOUR COARSE? GONE!
THERE WERE OTHER MAKES WITH TRANS MITIONS THAT FETHERD AND ALOWED VAIRYING AMOUNTS OF POWER TOO BE SENT TO EACH SIDE INDYPENDENTLY, I THINK THATS THE DEFINITION OF TRUE 6 WHEEL DRIVE HERE FOLKS
BETTER STILL IF EACH SIDE INDEPENDENTLY CAN GO FWD OR REVERS, OR PREHAPS WITHOUT STOPING TO SHIFT! NOW THATS WHAT WE NEED
A TRANS THAT IS FULY FETHERABLE AND DOSENT NEED TO STOP TO SHIFT OR SHIFT AT ALL TO GO IN REVERSE, ALL THIS AND EACH SIDE INDEPENDENTLY,
AND YES THERE WERE SOME THAT COULD DO ALL THAT!
| By ISAAC EISENMAN (Tropicjungleboy) on Unrecorded Date: Edit |
HEY DAVID (PLASTICMASTER):
the aplication that you mention ( full traction on independent direction with full power at all speed or direction is obtained by hydraulic system...so you can go on kidd, predator, or similar....excellent design but after 5 year of build (or rebuild) can let you off at any time without warning due to rubber seals and hoses natural degradation on ambiance/oil contact......
| By david berger (Davidrrrd) on Unrecorded Date: Edit |
WELL THERE THOUGHS AND THEN THERE ARE OTHERS, LIKE THE SIARA TRAIL BOSS TRANY JUST AS AN EXAMPLE,
NOT MADE FROM MODEREN MATIREALS OR CONSTRUCTION METHODS THEY WERE NOT NEAR STRONG ENOPH BUT WOW THEY HANDLED NICE, NOW REPRODUCE THEM NOW BUT WITH COMMEN SENCE UPDATES FOR THE EXTRA POWER THEY NEED TO HANDLE AND FORGET THE T-20'S AND ODG'S FOLLY
NIGHT AND DAY!
| By mark harding (Promoza) on Unrecorded Date: Edit |
I'm sorry Dave but i really dislike a trail boss due to it is hard for a person in my situation as for the 6x6 it's self i like it but for driving well was way to hard for me due to a left arm weakness that's why i like the MAX&ARGO'S it seems more friendly for a person with disability to drive please don't get me wrong a trail boss was a great machine for it's time i really did like mine even though i only drove it 1 time not very much fun when you could not turn
| By David Keeso (Argomag) on Unrecorded Date: Edit |
Now that this squabble is over, I have a question. I replaced the two back drive chains (RC50) in my ARGO this weekend. After spending 45 minutes trying to find the spring pin that holds the last link on and the master links, and trying to get the bottom of the chain tight, bla bla bla, how long should this have taken for a person who has never replaced a chain before. I think it took a friend and I 2 hours in total before we had the floor pan back in place and the cotter pins back on. Then another half an hour trying to get some of the grease off. (WD 40 Words very well to get grease off your hands, just make sure to use real soap soon after. ) To get the chain on tight, I had to jack the back two tires off the ground and use a tire iron to turn the chain until tight enough for the ends to meet. The first chain I got on myself, but the other side turned into a 3 person operation.
Should it really be this hard to do???
| By David Keeso (Argomag) on Unrecorded Date: Edit |
By the way, I was looking in my manual this weekend, and their are apparently pads in the tranny. I don't know what they do or any thing else about them, but it did say something about pads in the transmission or related to the tranny. I Don't mean brake pads either.
| By John Ferdig on Unrecorded Date: Edit |
David,
You can speed up the process by using a chain tightener. It's a little gizmo (kinda like a clamp) that draws the two chain ends together and holds them so you can put in the master link. I can't remember where I found one, but I know it made joining/tightening the chains on my argo a lot easier. Try a motorcycle or ATV shop or even JC Whitney.
| By david berger (Davidrrrd) on Unrecorded Date: Edit |
DAVID K , I PUT A 1/2 LINK IN TEMPORARILY TO HELP REDUSE THE TENTION DURING INITIAL CHAIN STREACH, AFTER WITCH REMOVING THE 1/2 LINK AND PUTING THE CHAIN TOGETHER IS EASY AS PIE,
| By Roger Smith on Unrecorded Date: Edit |
Maybe it's the pads on the rear clutch unit, some "nylon" like pads that you're supposed to lube. And replace them before they wear so thin that the pulley halves get metal to metal on those sliding ramps.
| By John Hamilton on Unrecorded Date: Edit |
Oh...no.Hey...since you "REHASHED" it....just what kind of tranny do you think a TrailBoss has since IT and NOT THE T-20 in a MAX is ..TRUE SIXWHEEL DRIVE?HeHE...LOL!!!
Like I said.........
| By david berger (Davidrrrd) on Unrecorded Date: Edit |
HUH, JOHN THE TRANYS IN A TRAIL BOSS WORK PRITY GOOD, ON ETHER SIDE YOU PUSH THE LATEREL FORWARD A BIT AND GET SOME POWER, MORE AND YOU GET MORE POWER, TILL YER ALL THE WAY, NOT SO IN A T-20
ALSO ON A TRAIL BOS WHEN YOU PULL THE LATEREL BACK IT STOPES YOU SLOWLY DEPENDING ON HOW MUCH PRESHURE YOU EXERT, RIGHT? NOT SO ON A T-20
AND IF YOU PULL THEM BACK MORE YOUR MOVING BACKWARDS MY FRIEND, NOT SO ON A T-20
WELL RIGHT SIDE IS THE SAME AND THAT MAKES IT FAR SUPIRIOR TO THE T-20
FULLY FETHERABLE AND SHIFTLESS TOO!
| By tony larose on Unrecorded Date: Edit |
question for you long lived MAXers out there. my second hand max4 has stopped turning right. I can get it to turn by hammering foward and pulling the break. i have breaks- both levers back and she stops great. If i climb i think she'll only pull on one side (ie only one side will spin if she high sides) i also have noted that i have to pull the levers almost back to the seat to lock the brakes. not sure what it is but its taking the fun outta it. any thoughts would be appreciated.
tony
alarose@bellatlantic.net
| By ISAAC EISENMAN (Tropicjungleboy) on Unrecorded Date: Edit |
HEY TONY:
aparently, according to what you mention..you need to reduce right upper plunger travel ( screw-in) on t-20 tranny.....also need to adjust both lower plunger ( in order to obtain full braking power on less stick travel)....check previous post for specific way to performances those adjustment.....
| By John Hamilton on Unrecorded Date: Edit |
David.......since WHEN DID ANY TRAILBOSS have that kind of capability?!!!Man you NEED to look at one.From what I understand....they had a BORG AND WARNER T-20 in them.Why..that is what were in the ones I have seen! Let someone prove ME WRONG..again.LOL!!!
| By mike martindale (Wetsu) on Unrecorded Date: Edit |
as much as i hate to break up the t-20 conversation, my rear chains on my bigfoot are tight on the bottom but loose on the top.causeing alot of chain slapping noise, is this common? or are my slack adjusters screwed up? i wouldn't be to worried except all the other chains are tight.
thanks for any input. mike
| By MaxRules (Brandon_price) on Unrecorded Date: Edit |
The Trail Boss has two separate transmissions that can go in forward and reverse without changing gears. That is the only advantage over the T-20, but the Boss takes a lot more effort to steer. The T-20 is far superior in every other way. It is more sensitive and easier to feather in tight spots. The spring loaded sticks on the Maxs (no spings on the Boss) make cruising easier. If you take the springs off, the T-20 requires very little lever force to drive and stop the vehicle.
| By david berger (Davidrrrd) on Unrecorded Date: Edit |
HEY JOHN HAMILTON, ARE YOU OFF YOUR MEDICATION?
SINCE WHEN HAS A TRAIL BOSS HAD A T-20?
THE MACHINES MAY HAVE SHORT COMINGS BUT THE TRANYS WERE REALY SMOOTH AND MANUVERABLE,
AND IF MADE TODAY WITH MODEREN MATIREALS AND WORKMANSHIP THEY WOULD REPLACE THE T-20'S QUICKLY
TAKE A LOOK AT A T-20 AND YOU SEE 1 BIG LUMP,
THEN INSIDE A TRAIL BOSS YOU FIND 2 TRANNYS SEPERATED BY THERE COMMEN INPUT SHAFT,
STEVIE WONDER COULD TELL THEM APART WITH ONE HAND BEHIND HIS BACK!
| By mark harding (Promoza) on Unrecorded Date: Edit |
HEY JOHN I HAD A TRAIL BOSS AND IT SURE DIDN'T HAVE A T-20 IN HAD 2 TRANNY ONE ONE EACH SIDE DRIVEN BY 1 CLUTH THAT IS ON A SHAFT RUNNING TO BOTH TRANNY BETTER LOOK AGAIN
| By David Keeso (Argomag) on Unrecorded Date: Edit |
There is something that looks like a trail boss on e-bay right now. Put in ARGO ATV in the search. It is the last one in the list!
| By david berger (Davidrrrd) on Unrecorded Date: Edit |
HI BRANDON, WHATS THIS ABOUT FETHERING, MY PIOINT IS THE T-20 IS TO EASY TO ENGAGE, THE BANDS ARE SELF ENERGISING AND NOT FETHERABLE,= HARSH AND JURKY,
NEEDS TO BE DISENGAGED TO ADJUST COARSE WHEREAS MANY OTERE DESIGNES OUT THERE CAN PROVIDE VAIRING DEGREAS OF POWER, UNLIKE ALL OR NONE OF THE T-20.
SO WHAT IF YOU NEED TO INPART SOME EFORT TO GET SMOOTH AND PRECISE HANDLEING!
IN ORDER TO GET A T-20 TO HANDLE SOMETHING LIKE SMOOTH YOU HAVE TO WORK FAR HARDER THAN THOUGHS
OTHERS AND ONLY WITH SOME DEGREE OF SUCSESS
| By TIMOTHY O'KEEFE on Unrecorded Date: Edit |
DID ANYONE EVER USE STRING TO BRING THE CHAIN TOGETHER? IF YOU THREAD THE STRING THROUGH BOTH LINKS IN THE CHAIN A BUNCH OF TIMES AND THEN USE A SCREWDRIVER AS A TWIST LEVER, IT ACTS LIKE A PULLEY BOCK AND STRETCHES THE CHAIN TOGETHER SO YOU CAN CONNECT THE LINK. THINK ABOUT IT YOU HAVE TO USE GOOD STRING!
| By bigkodiak on Unrecorded Date: Edit |
The "argo" on E-bay is indeed a trailboss. I have restored 2 Trailbosses in the past. Sierra had two tranny's Left and Right. Each tranny controlled forward and reverse simply by shifting the stick forward or back. This machine could do an actual zero radius turn.
The trailboss is an agile machine in the woods due to the fact that it could turn on a dime but reliabilty is poor. Parts for the trannys to this day are hard to come by but are still available through Dan Dowling. Check out http://www.trailbossatv.homestead.com/
I have recently, within the past month, been considering trying to put a T20 into a boss. I think it could be done but may require a few modifications.
Russ
| By Jon on Unrecorded Date: Edit |
Hi
Regarding installing chains, take a set of vicegrips (needle nose ones work best) and grind V shaped grooves into ends matching chain roller size. Then you can squeeze the ends & it will stay till you get the link in. Works great.
Jon
| By liflod (Liflod) on Unrecorded Date: Edit |
If you download the Argo manual, its shows how to modify a vice grip to pull the cahins together. Just like Jon is talking about.
| By tony larose on Unrecorded Date: Edit |
issac- Thanks for the posting on my t-20 adjustments.. question though- are these adjustments made with engine out of machine/ not sure how to reach or gain access to the "plunger"
thanks in advance!
tonyh
| By Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max Dealer (Fred4dot) on Unrecorded Date: Edit |
Tony, On a max IV if you will take out the back seat (4 bolts) and the battery you can get to the plungers easily.
| By John Hamilton on Unrecorded Date: Edit |
I have been away..much like this CHAIN thread has drifted!Sorry..but I can't help but laugh at this...LOL!!!That LAST POST I made was out of pure fun or better yet ..SARCASIM.I was "wrong" before...why not make jest of it and BE WRONG AGAIN I thought.This just goes to show the short comings of a WRITTEN FORUM as opposed to a vocal one(is there such a thing yet?)which I have yet to find..since I am not really looking.
My favorite 6X6 or 8X8 to this point would be a Triton Predator.Think of it as a MASSIVE version of what the TRAILBOSS could have become.The wheel on the CENTAUR just "ruins things" for me otherwise IT would be my pick.
| By TIM O'KEEFE on Unrecorded Date: Edit |
YOU GUY'S MAY THINK I'M CRAZY, BUT THE STRING TECHNIQUE WORKS GREAT. I RAISED THE WHEELS OFF THE GROUND AND THREADED THE STRONG STRING THROUGH THE TWO LINKS ABOUT 5 TIMES THEN TIED THE ENDS TOGETHER AND TWISTED IT WITH A SCREWDIVER. I MUST HAVE MADE UP A GOOD INCH THIS WAY. THE GUY AT THE WELDING SHOP SUGGESTED IT. HE DOES IT WITH 50LB TEST FISHING LINE ON MUCH BIGGER CHAINS USED ON LOBSTER BOATS. JUST MAKE AS MANY LOOPS AS YOU CAN. NO NEED TO ORDER VISEGRIP FROM ODG! ITS THE SAME PRINCIPLE AS A PULLY BLOCK. YOU CAN LIFT THOUSANDS OF POUNDS OFF THE GROUND USING A PULLEY BLOCK WITH ORDINARY ROPE.
| By mark harding (Promoza) on Unrecorded Date: Edit |
a zip tie works also
| By Roger Smith on Unrecorded Date: Edit |
I don't think you're crazy, it sounded like a great idea, especially on the side of the trail. All you need is a bootlace.
| By tony larose on Unrecorded Date: Edit |
thanks for the info on the plungers on my max; also any easy ways to get to the oil level and fill/drain areas; i looked in the back but could barley even see the fill one!
| By Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max Dealer (Fred4dot) on Unrecorded Date: Edit |
Tony, it is pretty close, but you can get to them both from the back. Use a square drive socket with a breaker bar - they are and need to be tight. I use an empty honey squeeze bottle to refill my trannys (have to fill it a few times, but I don't spill any - remember just a quart and let whatever will, run out the fill to plug). I also use a suction device with a 1/4" x 12" long plastic end to insert in the tranny - much bigger would be hard to get to the bottom where the oil is.
| By mike martindale (Wetsu) on Unrecorded Date: Edit |
i just found some "diamond chain " for 9.00 a foot.for the 50rc-2.is that a good price or not?
| By mike martindale (Wetsu) on Unrecorded Date: Edit |
well i tried the string,and the zipties. and now i'm going for the vice grips.them blankety-blanking double roller chains are a royal pain to put together.ok the together isn't the problem. it's putting the spacers,and the link in at the same time.while trying to hold the chain together.
| By mike martindale (Wetsu) on Unrecorded Date: Edit |
well i tried the string,and the zipties. and now i'm going for the vice grips.them blankety-blanking double roller chains are a royal pain to put together.ok the together isn't the problem. it's putting the spacers,and the link in at the same time.while trying to hold the chain together.
| By mike martindale (Wetsu) on Unrecorded Date: Edit |
thank GOD for the guy that invented vicegrips. i replaced 4 chains ( double rollers ) in 2.5 hrs. the front drivers,and the idlers. the 6in.needle nose work great.just a little grinding to make the jaws fit the rollers,and bingo,the links slide in.i'm SOOOOOOOOO happy. JON, your idea works the best, keep up the good work.you are my HERO.
| By David Keeso (Argomag) on Unrecorded Date: Edit |
This weekend, I had to replace a chain on my ARGO MAGNUM that was getting extremely loose and I finally realized that because it was so slack, when the chain would come around the back sprocket (on the third wheel back on the left side) it would start to bind until it yanked free again and make a loud popping sound. Luckly I kept the old chains I pulled out of the back two from last year and I (out of pure curiosity) hung all three (the old 2 and the one I just took out) and hung them on a hook on the peg board. At first they all looked exactly the same length but at closer look, one was the slightest bit shorter and I didn't think it would make any difference. I put it in anyways and what a difference. It didn't throw the tensioner spring this time and it didn't pop or make annoying sounds. However, why the hell did ODG design a vehicle that is so damn hard to replace chains under the seat??? Talk about no working room!!! After using a can of WD-40 to get the grease off my hands and arms and having to soak the chain in gas to get the 10+ years of old grease off, I was back in business. Now if only I could get all chains replaced at the same time, and then the machine may be back to 90% working. It stands at around 85% now. I was able to get the chain ends together using needle nose vice grips that weren't modified as the chain was already quite stretched and they were close together.
| By Roger Smith on Unrecorded Date: Edit |
Has anyone heard of or used Browning chain and what do you think of it.
Thinking about 20 ft, two tens will work I think. For an argo 8. I laid out one idler chain along with a first and second floor chain, it's right at 10ft, maybe one link under 10 per side. This is all double 50, not like a 6 wheeler.
Locally I can get
Diamond for $12
Tsubaki for 11
Browning for 10
Does the Guru still recommend Shoup Mfg. over this? I guess shoup would be a bigger roll..
| By Jon Hoath on Unrecorded Date: Edit |
Roger,,
Just make sure it is made in the usa, I still recomend shoup usa chain, I have found it to work better than several others I have tried.
| By ACR on Unrecorded Date: Edit |
Rodger,
I have an old 1981 argo"6"that has all double roller #50 drive chain to the axles.
| By hillbilly max on Unrecorded Date: Edit |
Need info on the drive sprocket for a 98 Max IV. Has anyone tried to build one of these. I have one with broken teeth on the sprocket. These sprockets cost over $100. I have found the small sprocket but can't find the large sprocket or the hub that the sprockets are welded to. If anyone has build one of these please let me know where you got the parts from...
| By David Keeso (Argomag) on Unrecorded Date: Edit |
ACR, Do you have any pictures of your ARGO? If you do, could you please e-mail them to me at argo_mag@hotmail.com
I'de really like to see it.
Thanks
| By Timothy Schotanus (Mudbuster) on Unrecorded Date: Edit |
Hillbilly max, generic splined hubs are available from a commercial supplier. I have bought them before for other applications. I assume(there is a dangerous word) that max is using a standard 6-spline shaft as an axle. Hold on to your wallet though, by the time you buy the hub,2 sprockets,and pay a shop to put it together you will probably not be far from the $100 mark. If you cant get a listing from anyone on the hubs let me know and I can look them up for you. Also I have some sprockets for a max with splined axles lying around somewhere. I will sell them if you want.
| By hillbilly max on Unrecorded Date: Edit |
Mudbuster
I can't seem to find the Hub, all the ones I find are too short. I have the whole unit at the machine shop right now getting the sprockets taken off the hub. I can bet the sprockets from the local farm and home shop for around $10 each but just can't find the correct hub. The machine shop is going to see if they can fix the damage I did to the hub trying to remove it,(had to drill out the set screw it ended up being hardened and to get the hub and sprockets off the shaft I had to make a real big hole in the hub) if they can fix the hub I will just weld the new sprockets on and should have a new unit for about $40-$50. It is nice to know someone who works at a machine shop.
The whole process would be alot easier if I could have just found a hub to work. If you have a part number and a place to get it let me know, this would be usefull info for the future.
thanks
| By Mike Longest on Unrecorded Date: Edit |
Hillbilly
Just cut old sprockets off your original hub and weld new
sprockets on.
Makes new ones look better priced however
Mike Longest
| By David Keeso (Argomag) on Unrecorded Date: Edit |
URGENT HELP REQUESTED!!!
As most of you know, I have an ARGO 8x8 Magnum. Some of you also know about my chains from previous postings. My chains are all pretty much at the end of their life, and the two under the seat are very bad. When the vehicle is under power, it is find, but when a load is put on, the chains pop and I think they pop off the sprocket when they go around. I am very aware of the danger in doing this (sprocket damage, bearings- they are already shot!) etc) I have absolutly no choice but to use the ARGO this weekend when I go up as I have to show some property to people who are comming in from the U.S. and the snow is way too soft and not sticky enough for a snowmobile which we were origionally going to use. I have the tracks on the ARGO now, but I am very worried about the chains breaking while I am using it. What are the chances of the chains snapping if I use it for about 2 hours in 3-4 feet of snow, with about 4 people including me? I know that the chain can bind up when it comes over the sprocket, but what are the chances of breakage if I am very careful and avoid the popping. At this point, I don't care about sprocket damage in the long run or bearing damage as they are getting replaced next month anyways - hopefully- but I need to be sure about those 2 chains. I will be making the trip with another ARGO 6x6, but that owner doesn't have replacement chains right now and I didn't have time to order them as I didn't expect to be using it until now. I will be going up tomorrow afternoon- ANY AND ALL HELP IS VERY WELCOME AND THANK YOU IN ADVANCE!
| By liflod (Liflod) on Unrecorded Date: Edit |
Since you havn't been worrying about the chains breaking until know, I wouldn't worry about it. The chain stretch will jump teeth on the sprockets but chances are they won't break. On the bright side of things, if the chains break while you are out , you will be able to show the property in more detail by walking !!!!
| By Big Wolf on Unrecorded Date: Edit |
I seriously doubt that you will break a double chain, if that is what they are, and you take it easy on them. I would not be stopping and backing it up much, or doing a lot of hair pin turns and crazy stuff! Probably the worst you will do would be to throw the chains off and bind them up.
If you are going out a long distance, them take along a few pairs of snow shoes, and some basic survival gear, in case you have to stay out over night. I find my Bowie knife to be enough to handle a black bear with, although I do prefer using a spear with a big black bear. You dont get beat up quite a bad using a spear!
| By David Keeso (Argomag) on Unrecorded Date: Edit |
Thanks for the replies- liflod- I have been worring about them for as long as they have been popping- only I wasn't going far enough to pose a problem as I was only going to be on local roads at the cottage- this weekend will be more like a 30 minute drive by car- then another 30 minutes into the bush by ARGO, going almost full throttle to the back of a trail to the back of the development- so that is why I was asking- Thanks again though and it is greatly appreciated!
| By greek on Unrecorded Date: Edit |
HI
You can go to a TSC store and buy new chains cheap.They usually have have them in stock.This will get you out of a spot until you can get the right chains from a dealer.Hope this helps.I had to do the same thing for my argo.
Pete
| By Thomas Butman (Tbutman) on Unrecorded Date: Edit |
Hey, my nephews had my max 2 (2002) out last night doing cookies on the packed snow on my driveway and back roads for about 30 minutes.
And out of the blue it started starving for fuel like it was out of gas (had 1/2 tank) had to keep choking it to make it run so I could get it in my garage (garage is only slightly above freezing) Any Ideas on what happened? It has been running like a top!
| By Thomas Butman (Tbutman) on Unrecorded Date: Edit |
I found the problem. The fuel line going from the pump to the carb was dry cracked badly and when I plugged one end and blew through it the pressure would quickly dissapate through the cracks. I replaced this temporarily with a new piece of lawn mower fuel line and used some small zip cord for clamps and after the breather/air filter was all put back on it ran like it was suppose to. I was convinced my fuel pump was bad. The machine is only 3 years old seems strange that the factory rubber hose would be so deteriorated.
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