By greg young on Unrecorded Date: Edit

My ATTEX st/300 tank has a crack in it. I took it to a plastic welder, and he fixed it, but it opened again, dumping a half gallon on my sneakers. I still wear them, even though i could instantly explode. Does ANYONE have a tank laying around that would fit this thing?? I would really love to get this running again before another BUffalo winter!

By ISAAC EISENMAN (Tropicjungleboy) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

HEY GREG: just "jacket" your gas tank with fiberglass ( resin + matt)..easy, fast and reliable!!!

By kush on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Greg,

Why not look for a different replacement tank? A small 6 gallon for a boat might fit. I just happened to take my 300 body apart & was surprised how small the tank loks. My metal tank in my 252 looks bigger. If money is no object how about a fuel cell?

By greg young on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Isaac, I never thought about the fiberglass approach! Have you done it, or do you know how? Is fiberglass or kevlar and the resins resistant to gasoline?

By david berger (Davidrrrd) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

dosent richard clark have thouse tanks?

By greg young on Unrecorded Date: Edit

david,
Richard Clark does NOT have the tanks, so everybody take care of the one you have!!! I've called and asked him a few times now. Once again, if anyone has one around, let me know. I think I am going to fiberglass the tank this weekend.

By ISAAC EISENMAN (Tropicjungleboy) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

HEY GREG: YES THE FIBERGLASS IS GASOLINE PROOF...AS A MATTER OF FACT THAT'S THE MATERIAL FOR NEW FUEL TANKS ON EVERY GAS STATION IN REPLACEMENT OF THE STEEL ONES.....JUST TAKE THE FOLLOW CARE BEFORE PUT FIBERGLASS RESIN OVER YOUR PLASTIC TANK:

* DEEPLY CLEAN WITH SOAP AND WATER (OUTSIDE OF TANK)...DEEPLY DRY THE REMAIN WATER..FIBERGLASS RESIN ISN'T COMPATIBLE AT ALL WITH WATER BEFORE GET DRY..
*READ INSTRUCTION FOR PROPER RESIN/CATALIZER MIXTURE.
* THERE ARE SEVERAL CLASS OF "CLOTH" ( THE "FIBER" PART)
A) ROBIN ( SMALL SQUARE PATTERN) MAKES THIN-SMOOT SURFACES..GOOD FOR FINISHING.
B) CLOTH/COARSE COMPOUND (ONE SIDE CLOTH-ONE SIDE SOFT LOOSE 8LIKE COTTON BUFF)...IT'S A "ONE STEP" MULTIPRUPOSE....COARSE SIDE GOES GLUED TO TANK
C) COARSE COMPOUND ( LIKE COTTON BUFF) EASY TO BREAK IT APART BY HAND ...HIGH GRADE OF RESIN SOAK..USED TO "BEEF UP" AND TO BOND TWO PIECES OF MATH
D) MATH (BIG/THICK SQUARE PATTERN) TO MOULD UP HEAVY FIBERGLASS STRUCTURES)

YOU CAN "JACKET" YOUR GAS TANK WITH:
* HALF A GALLON OF RESINE
* O.5 OZ OF CATALIZER
* 1 SQUARE YARD OF COMPOUND CLOTH OR COARSE COMPOUND
* 2) 2" PAINT BRUSH
* PLENTY CLOTH SOAP/DETERGENT TO CLEAN YOUR HANDS

WORKS THE TANK ON TWO HALVES...1/4 GALLON ON EACH HALVE....PRE-CUT THE CLOTH BEFORE MAKE RESIN MIXTURE.

* "PAINT" WITH RESIN THE FIRST AREA.
* PUT THE PRECUT CLOTH OVER "PAINTED AREA"...OF COURSE WORK WITH GRAVITY....HALF UPPER SECTION FIRST!!!!!
* "PAINT" THE CLOTH WITH MORE RESIN UNTIL YOU SEE RESIN NOT CLOTH......LET IT FULL DRY ( ABOUT 2 HOURS)....WORKING TIME WITH "FRESH" RESIN/CATALIZER MIXTURE IS ONLY 5-7 MINUTES SO YOU BETTER THINK WHAT TO DO ON ADVANCE.
* WHEN FULL DRY, ROTATE 180% THE TANK AND REPEAT THE PROCESS UNTIL IS 100% COVER WITH RESIN..

EASY AH!!!!!

BE AWARE OF THE VAPOR AND HIGH FLAMABLE CONDITION OF "FRESH" RESIN..WORK IT ON WELL VENTILATED AREA AND AVOID ANY KIND OF FIRE HAZZARD...WHEN DRY IS A HARD TO BURN COMPOUND........