Subtopic	Posts		Updated
	Archive through February 18, 2001	4
	Archive through February 13, 2002	13

By Belton Zeigler on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I wonder if anyone still has/remembers the original discussion of the topic of soundproofing a Max. I would be interested in any information available about dampening the engine noise on my '86 Max II.

By newmax on Unrecorded Date: Edit

i am working on soundproofing my max 1v. I made a top for it out of lexan and when i put the doors on it is extreamly loud. I bought some sound deadening pads from sannel auto parts they are 12"x12" inch pads they are self stick.I put them on the floor and on the back window. I bought some felt type material with foil side made for under hoods and put that behind the back seat and over the sound pads on the back window. i closed off as much as i could behind the seat with the felt material. That made a huge difference, now i am buying some foam panals from where i work and i am going to put them on the roof and doors. i will let you know when i am done.

By jason edwards on Unrecorded Date: Edit

can anyone help me? I'm deciding if I should purchase a six wheeler. I'm used to going slow on 4 wheelers in the mountains and not putting up with much noise. How loud are modern six wheelers? Briggs vs Kawasaki? After market muflers? Link to noise decibel chart?

By tony larose on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Max 4 question- this is a 98 era machine with a questionable amount of hours alhtough all looks good little wear on chains/sprockets etc. my problem has been turning and wheel power issues. untill just recently it has been as if only one side of the machine has been powerering - ie if loaded down then only right side would turn- i have figured out that its something to do with the control sticks. after some adjusting i have found to turn you have to push one forward and one aft with some force where i thought that you would just have to pull the one back to brake that side and no pressure forward; but it is nice to see it will now turn either direciton-but i have my hands and sticks pegged to the seat or the dash to do so?-anyway; the problem now is turning in reverse. it seems that i have run out of stick travel when pulling the sticks back and one side hits the seat. not sure how to adjust the rods now but it may seem that i have to drill new holes in the control sticks to get more travel from the push-pull rods but this seems odd to have to do. I would appreciate any help that anyone could give. also- wondering if anyone sells accessories for the max's like brushguard/winch mounts- etc. THANKS IN ADVANCE - tony

By Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max dealer on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Tony, To adjust the tranny, you need the machine blocked up with all six wheels off the ground. You need to make sure the steering laterals go the same distance forward and the same distance back. The travel between levers (one all the way forward and one all the way back should be between six and ten inches - I adjust to seven. When the levers are forward in forward gear (bands fully engaged), with the engine off, turn the wheels by hand and the tires should turn, but be hard to turn and the driven pulley should turn. With the lever in the middle, again with the engine off, turning by hand, the wheels should turn easily, just like when the tranny is in neutral, because it is in neutral and the driven pulley should not move. With the levers pulled all the way back, the brake should be on and the wheels should not turn forward (they will turn backward, but it will be hard to turn. With the tranny in Reverse, with the levers forward, the brake should be on and the wheels should not turn backward (they will turn forward, but hard). With the levers in the middle (neutral, the wheels should turn easily and the driven pulley should not turn. With the levers all the way back (fully engaged, the wheels should be hard to turn and driven pulley should turn. Make sure you have a neutral or the bands are too tight. I remove the tension springs when I adjust the bolts. The top bolts adjust the reverse drive bands and the bottom bolts adjust the forward drive bands. I always adjust the bottom bolts first because they get the most wear. When doing all this adjusting, keep the U channel that attaches to the plungers and the laterals as straight up and down as you can. The total movement of the brake bar away from the case (with both plungers all the way out) of the tranny should be 3/16 of an inch. With a Max IV, the levers should be about 4 inches from the dash and 2.5 inches from the seat when fully engaged (for a max II, they should be about three inches from the dash and 5.5 inches from the seat).

By Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max dealer (Fsowerwine) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Tony, I should have told you that you need to take the back seat out and remove the battery to get to the tranny adjustment bolts. They are the bolts that hold the "u" channel to the tranny case. They screw in to shorten the travel - screw each bolt in the same number of turns. Remember to use all four bolts, don't just adjust the top two becasue they are easiest to get to.

By Bill Aras (Blueknightnj) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Can anyone recommend a better starter solenoid for my 2001 Max IV? Seems as if I have to tap the key a few times to get it to kick in. If so, contact me OFF list at BlueKnightNJ@prodigy.net
Bill (who loves his MaxIV)