Subtopic	Posts		Updated
	Archive through March 19, 2001	10

By Eugene kochnieff on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Re Charging times.
If your winch draws 100 amps for 1/10 hour it will drain your battery by 10 amp hours.
If your alternator output is 10 amps it will take one hour plus about 5% to recharge the battery to the original state. So less drain = faster charging and higher alternator output = faster charging.

Bye Eugene.

By PJ White on Unrecorded Date: Edit

ARGO ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS
I have a 1980 Argo with 16HP Tec I am just finishing up my restoration but when I start the motor on the key switch it runs fine but will not shut off, I already tried a new switch,I am wondering where the 2 wires that come out of the motor go RED and Green wire when I purchased this unit it was in pieces and no wiring harness, Also how much voltage should be coming out of the motor, mine when I put a test lite on the red wire the light just flickers. and do I need to ground the key switch.

By Eugene Kochnieff on Unrecorded Date: Edit

the key switch should have two circuits on it.
1 normally closed when the key is in the off position and open when in the on position this circuit is used to short the magneto and kill the engine.
2 normally open in both the off and on position and momentary on when turned to start. this is for the starter motor cct.

All electric start small engines with magneto ignition will have a variation on this theme some use two switches some combined as described above, my guess is the wires you mention are across the points and if you short them it will stop the engine if you are worried you can put a 2000 micro farad capacitor across them if the engine stops it will be safe to short them in future. The cap acts as a filter which will stop the points from working, but if the wires are an alternator output no damage will be done.

bye Eugene.

By mr. tinker on Unrecorded Date: Edit

one of those two wires coming from the engine grounds the ignition and kills the engine.whatever switch you connect the wire to has to go to ground when it is made. to find out the right wire touch momentarily one of them to ground while engine is running and see if engines starts to quit.that wire runs to ignition switch and will kill the engine if the switch is grounded and you find the right terminal.a continuity tester would help for finding the right terminal on the switch.i dont know what the other wire is used for but may be your charging wire coming from engine and should go to battery positive(+).

By mike martindale (Wetsu) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

i washed out the inside of my bigfoot,and for some reason,now it won't start with the starter.to make it more confusing,i am now blowing the second fuse from the right ,as you look at it from the front.which in turn now my headlights don't light up.i turn on the key and the brake fan comes on,i turn it to start and the fan goes off and the fuse blows.it will start with the pull rope.i'm thinking starter relay,or a hot wire of some sort grounding outcan't find anything with a testlight.any body have any ideas??? oh, after i washed it out i did start it four or five times that day. the next day nothing. thanks,
mike

By David Keeso (Argomag) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

My Magnum did the same thing. What happened with mine was the regulator blew. The engine wouldn't do anything and the fan started. The lights wouldn't turn on and it they did they were so dim that you could barly see the light. Make sure that your wiring is alright and the fuse is in the holster all the way. Replace the fuse when the engine is off and make sure you have the right size fuse. You may try a higher number fuse. They use 20 or something like that so you may go up by 5.

I am only 17 so my knowledge is limited in this area, but its worth a try.

By Eugene Kochnieff on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Hi Mike,

Get a 12V lamp of between 20 and 50 watts and wire it across the fuse that blows, leave the fuse out.

This will allow you to trace the fault as the lamp will glow allowing a controlled and safe current to flow while you probe around, disconnect one thing at a time and when the lamp goes out you have found the faulty item. As you say it could be anything from a faulty starter to just a wire that has rubbed through and is touching somewhere it should not.

Good Luck Eugene.

By Attex Bob on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Mike: Here is my 2c worth. I think you are right when you suspect the starter relay. If it starts with the rope, but not the starter take a close look at the starter solenoid. There should be a wire going from the solenoid to the points or elect. ign. I would bet the solenoid is going to be the problem.

By Kevin Vallelunga (Kevinv123) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Never ever replace a fuse which was once adequate with one of a higher rating for a cure to a new problem. Fuses are sized to protect the circuits and wires which can only safely carry a given amount of current. Amphibs are mostly made of plastic and will not stop burning once they start. Most vehicle fires origins are electric.

By liflod (Liflod) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Hey Eugene, I'm glad somebody finally posted something about replacing fuses with light bulbs for troubleshooting shorts to ground. I have been doing that for years with my test light. Most people are surprised that you can troubleshoot most problems with a test light. Everyone should carry one with them. Usually a test light is easier for one man troubleshooting. Usually a DVM is out of site where you can see the light from many feet.
I also agree wtih Kevin that a bigger fuse will not solve the problem. But, if you put a nail in place of the fuse and the wire gets hot enough to catch fire, you can see where the short is!!!

By mike martindale (Wetsu) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

to all that answered the short prob
thanks the good advice,the problem was the relay/solenoid.replaced with a new one ,also put back 15 amp. fuse because i agree that plastic does burn rather fast.the fuses did not blow anymore but still had no lights.finally pulled all fuses,put in all new ones and viagra!!!!! everthing worked just like it possed to. and we did get to ride with troy and the rest at deepwater. great fun , wetsu gooood as new.

By mikesmax on Unrecorded Date: Edit

i have a 1999 max II with a 18 horse briggs my battery keeps going dead just from sitting only a couple of weeks i called RI and they told me to replace the key switch i did and it still happens. can somebody HELPPPPPPP me i starting to git PISSSSST@#$%^&*()!!!!!!!! THANKS MIKE

By schunn on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I have heard that some of the Cuyuna engines come equipped with CDI ignition systems. I have the guts pulled out of my 400 JLO and it occured to me that if I could convert it to a CDI type ignition and lose the ignition points, it would be a more dependable, easier starting motor. I am not afraid to get into something new.

I know that if this is a practical conversion, that someone out there has probably already done it. Let me know if you have some knowledge of this subject.

Steve

By david berger (Davidrrrd) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

mike some times a battery just get's that way, why dosent matter now, but to be shure if it is a defect some place in your wireing or it it is in your battery than just remove 1 cable from batery and see if it is dead in same amount of time aas before, now even if it is you may still have a remedy without buy'ing another battery, try a tricle charger, theres may types, id sugest one like can be found in northern catelog that sences your batterys condition and sends out the right charge for it's condition, they even have high teck chargers that condition batterys with special tricks to brake up deposets on plates that kill seldom used batteys, you might wonder why you hadent done this before when you see it in in action, some can even keep watch on more than one vehicles battery at once!

By BigRedWolf on Unrecorded Date: Edit

"mikesmax"

It sounds as if your battery has gone bad and will no longer hold a charge! If it is the origanal battery from 1999, then I have to say that is your problem. The same thing happens to most all of my batteries in the boat, the camper, the portable generator, and the ATV's. If they are left out in the cold during the winter, it seems to increase the chances of them going bad some times sooner. If you have gotten 4 years out of the same battery, then you have done well.

By roadwolf on Unrecorded Date: Edit

mikesmax,
something is drawing from your battery. that is why ri said to replace the switch. try disconnecting the battery and see if it cranks after your next 2 week rest. it should read 11.5 to 13 plus volts.

By Eugene Kochnieff on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Mikesmax,

I think your battery is dead also. Lead acid batteries do not like the cold! Also if you have alot of acessories you might be using more power than the engine can replace, in this case you have probably killed your battery. Lead acid batteries fail rapidly if not promptly recharged, this is due to a non-reversable chemical reaction in discharged cells called sulphation, open one of the fillers and have a smell, if it smells strongly of sulphur the battery is well on the way to demise. A good rule of thumb is that current should always be flowing into or out of a battery unless it is fully charged!

The best remedy is to replace the battery and always have it on trickle charge when not in use.

Good Luck

Eugene.

By schunn on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Is everyone off for the week? I have been posting a number of questions, but apparently everyone is out or there is no interest.

Steve