By Jim Stiver - Western PA MAX Dealer (Viper) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I am in the process of restoring an Attex factory racing machine and I cannot remove the front axles because the sprocket tubes are seized onto each of the front axles. Just wondering if anyone had any tips on how to free them before I end up having to cut the axles to remove them. Pictures are posted here:
http://www.stivermotorsports.com/attex_restoration.htm

Jim

By liflod (Liflod) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Use lots of "blaster" or preferred penetrating oil. I have had luck by hammering the axle into the sprocket tube which helps push the oil into the sprocket tube. The axles are the cheaper of the 2 to replace, so its better to cut the axle then the cut the sprocket tube. If you only have one axle stuck in the frame or at least axles in only one side of the frame, you can get the frame out of the body with the axles still in the frame. You will have to remove the hub assemblies to do it. I have also had good luck using a large pipe wrench or crescent wrench to spin the sprocket tube on the axle. You may need to use a bolt through the hub end of the axle to keep the axle from turning while you try to get the sprocket tube to break free.
BTW I have been checking your prgress on the Attex. Looks like a fun project.

Lance

By david berger (Davidrrrd) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

well id say that babys fer raceing, i myself prefer that old 1970's transmition, it's fully fetherable and provides smothe controle when you need it,the more input you give laterels the more power the wheels get, the harder you brake the more wheels brake, from just lightly to ful stop, smothe and controlable,
but if it's an 84 machine id say nope not likely, that things owner created,not factory at all, but not bad, looks like a screemer,

By liflod (Liflod) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I looked at the pictures and it looks like you can just drive the axle out of the sprocket tube using a BIG hammer and an old axle to pound on. I would put a piece of wood between the sprocket and the frame to prevent mashing the frame while you're beating the snot out of it.

By oldnatva on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I've had real good luck by using penetrating oil (blaster is good stuff) and using a hammer and drift to distort and free the sprocket tube. Pound along whole length of the tube perpendicularly to the axle with the axle suppoorted on both ends by the old bearings, then rotate the axle 180 degrees and do it again. It usually takes only once to free it up.

I've been following your progress, too. It's going to be even more fun when it's done!

Don

By Jim Stiver - Western PA MAX Dealer (Viper) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Lance,
Thanks for the input. I have been soaking it with PB Blaster for over a week. The other four came out without any problems at all. I have tried heating them, pounding them out and have even tried to remove the outer bearing and wheel hub to remove them from the inside out, but they are frozen too.

Dave,
You are right. It was not a stock machine. I have had it confirmed by Bill Gerber, whose father was the plant manger of Attex, that this was a machine that was built by the McKay's (who purchased Attex and moved them to East Palestine, Ohio). They used a newer "poly" body with an older chassis. I was also told that they used the older ATV transmission, because of weight and the ability for better steering when racing. It is a screamer, the Comet clutch is set up to engage @ 6000 RPM for hole shots at the start. Definately not a trail machine. I will use my Max for that.

Don,
I have not yet tried what you have suggested. If that does not work, I am thinking about trying a Porto-Power to see if I am able to push them out. I will gladly share the information as to how I got them free, when I do.

Thanks,
Jim

By George on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Jim,

I currently have the same problem as you. Just the front 2 axels. What I've done is removed the bolts from the sproket collar. I'm hoping that eventually, just by driving the !@@#!!%&& thing, the braking action will free them up for me.

My 2 cents.

George

By Jim Stiver - Western PA MAX Dealer (Viper) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

George,

You are exactly right. That is the way that it should be done, using the motor to do the work. Unfortunately, the throttle cable broke before I could do it that way and now I have to do it the hard way. What is puzzling is why the rest of them pulled right out, but both of the front axles are froze solid.

Jim

By Attex Bob on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Ha ha ha ha ha, this is funny!!!! You brought back bad memories!!!! I beat on mine with a 5 pounder for a solid hour before I finaly got mine off!!! I was so tired that I rested for 2 days!!!! I guess I should have counted the strokes for ya?!!!!!! Then you would know how many it would take!!!!

I could not figure out how to do it any other way; sorry for the bad news.

By Eric on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I've had some luck using a small jack on extremely stubborn axles after using a little heat on the tubes then apply your penetrating fluid so it sucks up inside the tube. Be careful not to burn the body by using shields (watch out for oil too). Check your frame too before using a jack because if you use a jack where an important part of the frame is broken or rusted the jack will really distort the frame along with the body. Those front axles are almost always the tight buggers. Another thing to do is remove all the bolts that go through the axle/shaft then with the vehicle safely lifted from the ground, run it and let the horsepower and chains help spin them to free it up. This works good but not usually on the real stuck ones that have been sitting outside with inches of water in the tub for a couple years. That doesn't look like your case though.

By david berger (Davidrrrd) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

oil vapers condence on metal in and arround engine compartment,this is the center and rear axels area, also if vehicle was on angle twards rear the water plug holes would let out rain water, but if frount was lower than like as in an above post water would colect in the frount,
as long as you keep useing a machine they tend to stay greasy, however once you stopp runing them the grease dry's up and rust settles in,
bangin on side's of drive tubes for there full lenth might indeed expand them a few thousenths, and free them up,
for a quick refresh of parts and just to be shure all is like new this treatment of your poor drive tubes seams rough, however id recomend for a rascle like that one that you visit a machine shop and have your sproket tube replicated with thicker stock,
the drive pin or bolt holes tend to enlongate in the O.E.M. tubeing,
i had a set made with 3/8" wall thicknes tubeing!
they cut it from solid stock and board it out!
garenteed unbrakeable!

By Jim Stiver - Western PA MAX Dealer (Viper) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Thanks everyone for your assistance and tips. I was finally successful in removing the front two sprocket tubes today. Removal was accomplished using PB Blaster and heat. After heating the sprocket tube, I pounded along the outside full length of the sprocket tube. Heat was then reapplied to the tube and the axle was pounded through using a 5/8"X12" punch and a two pound hammer.
http://www.stivermotorsports.com/attex_restoration.htm

Jim