By swampthing on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I was riding my Max IV in the snow and my throttle cable got stuck. I took off the throttle handle on the stick and oiled it and it loosened up, but then got stuck again (while I was riding unfortunately). I assume I may need a new cable. Will the heated cable solve this problem? Is it as easy to install as removing it from the handle and carb ends, snaking the new one through and reattaching? It does seem like the design of the attachment at the handle end is a bit weak (with the zip strap holding the casing together so the cable holds fast). AM I missing something? Any help much appreciated.

By roadwolf on Unrecorded Date: Edit

swampthing, oiled up cables like to stick in the cold. you could try using a hypodermic needle and injecting engine anti-freeze between the cable and housing. hopefully some will stay in there for the rest of the season.

By Missouri's Max Dealer (Brandon_price) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

You need a heated cable when riding in cold temps. RI has updated the cable this year and put seals on both ends. You still need a heated cable if it freezes, but the seals keep the moisture in the cable to a minimum. With this new cable comes a new aluminum throttle handle that you must also buy (new cable doesn't hook to old handle). It's 30 years overdue for this improvement but it's a nice one.

By Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max dealer (Fred4dot) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

swampthing, As long as you haven't broken the ends off your cable, you can just pull it out, hang it in a warm room (by one end so the water will run out the other) and let it dry. If you have something that you can blow the casing out with, that is best. Once you have all the water out, fill it with a lubricant (cable luber is the best or you can use my method described below) and reinstall it. Put a piece of glad wrap around the end that goes to the engine and wrap it tight with some rubber bands to keep the lubricant from running out when you slide it under the seats, etc. You will probably have to put more lubricant in when you are done. If you keep lubricant in your cable, it will not freeze (especially if you will keep a plastic sack over it when you are out in rain or wet snow, etc. The heated cable thaws out a frozen cable in about ten minutes, but it won't keep the water out without being lubed. I don't have a heated cable on my machine and it works fine even in 40 below, but I lube it well, regularly. Lubricant is a commodity like gasoline, it has to be replenished on a regular basis (every time you squeeze the throttle, you are sending a dab of lubricant out the engine side. There is a low spot in the middle of the cable and if water gets there, it is practically impossible to get out without good air pressure or removing the cable. To lube a cable without a luber, use a medical syringe and needle (slide the needle down between the cable and the casing) to drip the casing full. You have to raise up the front of the machine so the engine side is lower than the throttle lever (the more the better). It takes about 8 cc to fill a cable and when it runs out at the carb connection with the front high, lower the front and keep dripping until as much that will go in has gone in.

I think your throttle lever is broken, and someone has come up with the zip tie as a field fix. The factory does not use a zip tie. I also don't think you can buy one of the plastic handles and the new handle only works with a newly designed throttle cable so you might want to buy the new set. Directions come with the heated cable (be sure and tell Al what your machine's serial number is so you get the right directions. But if you get a heated cable you will still have to lube it because they come dry from the factory. All cable come dry and to lube a cable out of the machine without a luber, fasten one end to your bench or a chair and set up the syringe. Hold the other end lower until stuff starts to come out and gradually raise it pulling it taught until you have it full.

There is also a field fix for a frozen cable. Make up a wire with an aligator clip on one side and doble the other end so you have a stiff point. Hook the aligator clip to your positive battery terminal and just touch for a second, the metal anchor point in the throttle lever. This will cause a direct short with the engine the ground and thaw out the cable. It will refreeze so will have to be repeated. Don't hold it very long and Don't do it from the engine side.

By Timothy Schotanus (Mudbuster) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

The antifreeze thing works. I have used it for years. Very slow and tiresome getting it in there. A couple of years ago I won a cable lube system at the Humphry jamboree and it works great. I think it retails for $6-$8 but it comes with a little clamp thing that forces the lube to go into the cable instead of everywhere else, including all down the front of my shirt and a little in my eyes.

By bigredwolf on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Fred,

I am sorry, however, I have to disagree with your suggestion about using the battery and shorting the throttle cable to it as a quick fix to thaw the cable out. Respectfully, I know you are a dealer and have many many great suggestions and ideas, however, that is not a good idea to be telling some one to do that. It is extremely dangerous to even attempt doing some thing like that. If they have any kind of fuel leak at all, or even fuel vapor fumes, that could ignite a fire, or cause an explosion, which could result in injury and or the complete loss of the AATV.

This may be an absolute last resort type thing that you would do, if stranded some where way out in the remote bush. Other wise, I would not mention or recommend even attempting some thing like that.

By david berger (Davidrrrd) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

tim also has an old style heated cable, he finaly needed the thing on day and after it thawed the battery was too week too start his engine!
and too top it all off it re-froze, so the cable had to be blown out and refilled with lube,
myself i have had my troubles with frozen cable.even while driveing, its not too tough to remove the cable and thaw it out hanging as fred said or blowing it out with compressor, however it can become a pain in the ass, i try to keep the throtle coverd when not in use so water dosent get in but it still happend too often,
i finaly broke down and tryed the auto antifreez thing, it dose work, any lil amt of water that gets in becomes part of the antifreez solution and thus dosent form in low spot, with oil method water displaces some oil and it gathers in the low spot in cable where it can freez and lock up your ride,
i got the anti freez into my cable with one end in a gallon of antifreez concentrat(not mixed)
and other end i clamped on a fule line and other end of line to a vacume pump, i wached the jar inline to input of vacume pump til it was 1/2 full just to be shur cable was full ,
but if i dident already have a vacume pump i would have simply hooked the hose up to car intake manifold, i doubt a little antifrez would hurt engine,it dose take a while though,

By Howard on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Swampthing, Richards Relics sell a special cable that the inner will
pull out of the outside plastic, then you can easy put antifreez in, Works well and is cheap. I think I paid 25$ for it Also did same thing for the choke cable too. howard

By Roger Smith on Unrecorded Date: Edit

LOL @ Montana Fred :)

"Put a piece of glad wrap around the end that goes to the engine and wrap it tight with some rubber bands to keep the lubricant from running out when you slide it under the seats, etc. You will probably have to put more lubricant in when you are done. If you keep lubricant in your cable, it will not freeze (especially if you will keep a plastic sack over it when you are out in rain or wet snow, etc."

Glad wrap, rubber bands, plastic sack, just the finishing touches on a product that in your eyes, has no flaws:)

Seriously, I like your tech talk, it is down to earth and informative. Hooking the cable to the battery.. that's good. Only for the experienced people though, meaning we who've blown up a battery making sparks, dropping a wrench across a battery being charged with the caps off, venting explosive gases. The idea is if you make a spark, make it at the Frame/ground and not at the battery..

I run an electric fuel pump on my briggs, but don't push the idea because it's not idiot proof.

And lastly, been reading some jeep forums. They are welding on the trail with a few 12 volt batteries jumpered together!

By Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max dealer (Fred4dot) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

bigredwolf, You might be right that some shouldn't use my methods, but there are not a whole lot of fumes if it is cold enough to freeze your throttle. What are you going to do about all the people who smoke (I don't for the last sixteen years, but when I did, didn't worry much about fumes of any sort!).

Guess what I am saying is that life is full of risks (anyone who drives or rides in an automobile shouldn't worry about anything else in their lives because the chances of getting hurt on the roads is far greater (ten times or more) than doing anything else regardless of the perceived danger) and I would much rather be able to get home. I advocate routine maintenance, but when a problem comes up, it is nice to have a solution.

Those who use antifreeze, might consider using the kind for potable water (RV stuff). It is not corrosive like auto antifreeze and won't eat up your cable or hurt you or your pets.

And Roger, Thanks for the nice words. Actually, I think the Max has lots of flaws (you should see all the things I have suggested changes for); it's just that most can be easily worked around or ignored. Regardless of the machines perceived or actual weaknesses, it is the most bang for your buck in the ATV market.

By kush on Unrecorded Date: Edit

simple question. What is the order for putting on a new throttle cable to an Attex with a Mikuni slide carb? Do you screw it on the carb & then attach it to the handle? Or thandle first & then screw it on the carb?

My cable works fine off the machine but will not move back into the cable tubing whn I push the throttle bacl. I guess it must be kinked or bent & should be timew for a new cable/

By Attex Bob on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Kush, this is how I do it. Not that I see much difference.

#1. Screw the cable on the slide, and hook it to the slide.

#2 Route the cable where ever is needs to go.

#3 Hook it up to the throttle handle.

#4 Now put the slide into the carb and screw it down.

Your done!!!!! PS Check for free operation, and make sure you get WOT. Also make sure the slot in the slide lines up with the pin in the carb, other wise you will be in for a suprise the first time you light it off!!!!!!

By liflod (Liflod) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Is there a heated throttle cable for an old Attex with a Mikuni carb? Someone told me the old Max atvs had some type of adapter that fit the Mikunis and you can run a standard set-screw type throttle cable from there to the lever.

By kush on Unrecorded Date: Edit

GUys,

It's funny. I stored my 252 outside for at least 10-15 years and never had a frozen cable. I had a milk carton over the throttle handles and a tarp over the body. Never a frozen cable for me at least here in PA.

By roadwolf on Unrecorded Date: Edit

hey fred, i would use the battery circuit solution but i have a manual start system. so the antifreeze is what i have to do.
hey! you other joker's, fred didn't say to hook it up for and hour or two, he said it is a quick fix!

By David Keeso (Argomag) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Why don't argos have this freezing throttle cable problem or do they and I have just missed it?

By Damen T.Hill (Argoss) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

while were on the subject of winter type problems, my positive cable keeps coming unbolted from the battery and I have tryed lock washers, lock nuts, everything, and it still comes undone any ideas? I have even tryed using differnt bolts and nuts and always loose when I go out to start it (Trust me It's a Pain In the @ss when you have to go feed the animals in six inches of mud with no 6x6 because it has magicly dissconected its self from the battery.)

And does anyone else use a trickle charger on their aatv on cold nights to keep the battery from going dead from the cold? I do and man does it make the differnce.


hey david K. hows the winter up their? I am so happy, their saying snow on saturday and sunday here! alright!

By kush on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Damen,

Buy some ny-lok nuts and you should be fine. They are nuts with a nylon insert and when you tighten them up they are not coming off!. You can only reuse them a few times, but how often are you going to unbolt your battery?

My ATV is stored far from any electricity. Any ideas what I can do (besides carrying the battery back and forth) to keep it charged? Do those Solar chargers they sell for boats work?

By David Keeso (Argomag) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Damen, no snow here yet- other than just a very light dusting on the grass- but not enough to get excited about- hopefully when I go to the cottage for Christmas, their will be enough for tracks to go on, but I doubt it. Last year, their was only one time when I needed tracks and that was when the cottage got blasted with around 5 feet of snow- most of it drifting off the lake, but in areas, I couldn't get the ARGO through even with tracks (I only have standard tracks that have been used on all the ARGOs that dad has owned (This is the 3rd I think) and the tracks have never, ever had a problem. these things are virtually indestructable and I have tested them hard.)

Im hoping that this year at Christmas their be enough for tracks to go on and not have to take them off again a month after they go on. Also, why do we never hear about frozen throttle cables on an ARGO? I would use a trickle charger on my ARGO if their was enough sunlight in the garage for it to work. However, it would be a good idea as evertime I go up I pray it will start without the jumpstarter- since I have had the regulator replaced (twice) and the battery replaced, it has started everytime after sitting for a month or two on the second or third try. It runs harsh at first then as it warms up, works fine. Its finally going in for repair soon to get the chains replaced, and the engine serviced- and get it back to a better working state. I was just told that my chains may not be working properly if the bearings in the axles are shot- I hope that this isn't the case cause Dad will kill me if I end up with a really expensive bill- he doesn't exactly want the ARGO anymore and its still around because of me. He knows that if he tries to get rid of it, I'll be gone right along with it (literally)

Merry Christmas to all on the boards, and Richard for the site!

Keep riding and stay warm!!

By David Keeso (Argomag) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

KUSH, yes, those solar chargers for boats are exactly what Damen was talking about (I think) They are good for anything that has a battery of the same size. I don't really know how it attaches to the battery from the cord, but its pretty simple I think. They do a great job of maintaining the battery- we had one on an old boat of ours that sat for a few weeks at a time at an empty development and was being used just to show property from the lake- only got used 4-5 times during the spring (after the ice had melted, )summer and early fall. Started on the first try- everytime!

By Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max dealer (Fred4dot) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

David K., Since you asked twice about why no frozen throttle cables on the Argo, I will answer you. The argo uses a handle bar type arrangement and I believe a twist throttle (like a motorcycle). Since water goes down (thanks to gravity), it falls off before it can enter the cable. The max uses straight sticks with the throttle lever acting like a funnel directing all the water right to the open end of the cable. Not a real good design if you leave it outside or ride in wet conditions. But, the ease of use of the straight sticks far outweighs having to cover your throttle. The design of the steering laterals is one of the pluses of the Max over the Argo for extended use and couples with the ease of moving the operator to whatever area of the machine needs the weight and still being able to operate the machine. The throttle lever can easily be moved to the left stick if the operator wishes (not true with the argo). Personally, I think a twist throttle is hard to operate and when I was still able to ride a motorcycle, I have had numerous occasions that my machine sped up as my weight shifted backwards while climbing. I had a terrible wreck once when I bounced over some rocks climbing and the front end came off the ground and I goosed the gas as I fell backwards (can't always keep your weight where you wanted it to be).

Now, if I were building the max, I would turn the throttle lever upside down and use the throttle lever as "squeezing a trigger". The hands would go below the throttle lever and it would look a little funny with the cable coming out the top, but it would solve the water entry problem. I would also angle the choke cable and the ignition key (at the dash) so they were pointed down to prevent water getting in them and I would make sure that were the cables attached at the motor, that it was on a downward slope. Just some of the easy work arounds to make the Max better.

By c3vg on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I'm having a problem with my throttloe cable on my Attex with a Mikuni carb. Off the machine the cable works great. when I screw it on the carb and pull the throttle that is okay. when I let go of the throttle the cable does not go back & the engine is stuck at full throttle. It does not slide very easily in the carb. Should I use some emery cloth on the inside of the carb or the outside of the slide? Is there something I am missing?

By Attex Bob on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Are you sure the slide is indexing in the body pin? If it isn't the throttle will hang wide open!!! That is no fun at all!!!!

I have never seen one hang up unless they were banged up when off the carb. See if it is indexing and let us know what you find out.

By Jon Hoath on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Fred,
Just for your info, you can put the twist grip on an argo on the left lever. My wife and I drove a max at humphrey two years ago, and it was miserable with both of us in their, the levers right in the middle gave my legs no side to side room, or my wifes' legs either, all she said was, I miss the bigfoot, I was thinking the same thing. with just me in their it was okay. argo levers set just off to the right make it comfortable for two or one person, with no sticks coming out of the floor of the machine to crowd your legs. and also the max "laterals" are much more work to operate than the hydralic brakes on the argo, they are effortless and only needed to be moved a couple inches or so to accomplish the turn. I do agree with your throttle, choke and ignition ideas, but you could make it real easy though and put your laterals in a pipe bender, bend them to 90 degrees and put a argo twist grip throttle on it, left or right side!! I am not starting a max argo war just setting the record right on the count I have a lot of miles on both machines. I really think you ought to consider the pipe bender and argo throttle, I would sell it to you for my cost plus shipping of course..

c3vg,
You are probably missing the spring on the caberator linkage that returns the throttle to idle when you let off. try that before tearing apart the carb.

and fred,
I am attempting to become a max dealer in the near future also along with argo, for variety of course, and only because max has made drastic improvements in the last 4 years, now if they only could do something with their bands always slipping..!

By norm howard on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Reply to c3vg. I agree with Attex Bob on this. I had an Artic cat that took off right out from under me one night while snowmobiling & nailed a tree.Scary stuff. Like Bob says, check those alignment pins to see if they are in fact doing anything. There is a large pin which fits into a large slot one one side of the throttle slide, I think this is an idle stop screw (could be wrong).There is also a small pin on the other side of the carb which fits into a small slot for alignment of the slide. If this small pin backs its self out, when you squeeze the throttle the slide will move up & turn slightly in the bore because of the spring tension on it. This will cause the slide to stay hung up in the bore, causing your wide open throttle problem. If the pin is backed out, push it in and with a centre punch slightly dimple the area around it to keep it locked in. I hope this helps you out, I lost one of my nine lives over this problem about ten years ago.

By Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max dealer (Fred4dot) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Jon, I stand corrected on switching the twist throttle to the left lateral on an Argo (but doesn't it turn the wrong way to work well?). Appreciate the offer on the twist throttle, but I am plenty happy with the max throttle lever. In my previous world, I was a horse trainer who almost always rode two handed with a snaffle bit. I like the straight away hand position (the twist throttle makes my wrist hurt in about thirty minutes or less) and my arms have always been in good shape from the work I do/did. I suppose some people would think driving a max was hard.

I can't for the life of me understand what you mean by bands slipping. The only way a T-20's internal bands will slip is if you are pulling back on the laterals a little. I suppose if the bands were really out of adjustment, they would slip and I also suppose if you had too much friction modifier that they could slip. I've had a drive belt slip, but never the T-20 internal bands.

I think you will be pleased with your decision to also sell the Max (except for the reduced margin you will have to work with).

By Oojimmyc on Unrecorded Date: Edit

HI GUYS, I'm pretty new at 6x6's, but in regards to the solar charger panel. Yes, they do work. Just make sure you get one that's big enough to maintain your battery. All a 5 watter will do is maintain your battery as long as you have good sunlite. My understanding from a friend who knows electricity said it would take at least a 15 watter to trickle charge a battery. You can buy them at any RV store. Camping world has bigger ones and it don't take long to get into the bucks with them. I have a 5 watter I use to maintain the battery in my fifth wheel down on my ranch in southern Colorado. Seems to work fine. But it's not strong enough to charge the battery. A 15 watter will probably run you about $60.00. They usually come with alligator clips that hook right to the battery. I would recommend disconnecting the battery from your unit while the charger is hooked up for any period of time. Just get on the internet and look up solar chargers. There are tons of them out there at a reasonable price. Jim

By david berger (Davidrrrd) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

norm howard,
WOW THATS WHAT MY MAX II DID A YEAR OR SO AGO!
THAT DAM LITTLE PIN THAT KEEPS THE SLIDE STRATE JUST PLAIN DISAPEARED!
I HAD A SCAIR FROM THE FIRST EPISODE THAT ENDED WITH BLOWN BELT AND EXPLOADED CLUCH!
I REPLACED THE LITTLE PIN AND HAD LOCK TIGHT ON IT AS WELL AS PEANED OVER THE EDGES OF ALUMINUM ON OUTSIDE OF HOLE TO BE PERFICTLY SHUR THIS TIME IT WOULD STAY PUT, HOWEVER IT DID GET OUT OF WHACK AGAIN AND YUP, FOUNG NO SMALL PIN, NOW THERES JUST NO PLACE FOR THAT DANG THING TO GO WHAT WITH THE SMALL DEPTH OF THAT SLOT IN THE SLIDE, WELL I WASENT GOING TO TRUST THAT CARB EVER AGAIN BUT I FOUND A REALY THIN SCREW AT WORK AND THEY HAD A TAP TO THRED MY CARBS HOLE SO SCREW WOULD FIT IN THERE AND UP TH THE SLOT LIKE ORIDIANAL PIN DID, I USED RED LOCK TIGHT TOO! THIS TIME IT'S STAYING PUT! MAYBE IF YOU DO FIND A PROBLEM WITH YOUR GUID PIN YOU CAN TRY THE SAME FIX,
P.S. DON'T EVEN BOTHER TRYING TO STOP ENGINE WITH KEY OR KILL SWITCH, ONCE A 2 STROKE RUNNS AWAY REV WISE THEY WILL KEEP RUNNING EVEN WITH POINTS SHORTED BY KEY SWITCH,
YOU HAVENT THE TIME, I KNOW THIS IS WHAT I TRYED WHEN I RAN OUT OF ROAD AND HAD TOO PULL ON BRAKES THE DAY I BLEW THE CLUCH AND DRIVE BELT, NEXT TIME I HIT THE CHOKE AND PRESTO THE ENGINE STOPED WITHOUT TROUBLE! TRY THE CHOKE ON RUNNAWAY ENGINES FIRST!

By roadwolf on Unrecorded Date: Edit

jon hoath, maybe that's what us latteral dudes should do, just switch over to a twist throttle.
whaddya think guys?

By David Keeso (Argomag) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Fred, Thanks for answering my questions about the frozen cables. I also think a couple changes could be made to the ARGO steering and throttle configuration. But, it would still be twist grip throttle and the steering levers would still be more ore less the same.

Damon, We did get snow up here the morning after I replyed to one of your posts above. Not much though. Just enough to cover the grass and reads, but nothing like the Eastern side of the US a week or so ago. I'de like to get that up north with a fully working ARGO and tracks, but that probably won't happen until at least mid-January. That is the time of year when I'de like to do a ride up there, but its very hard to get up there sometimes in very snowly conditions. A typical 3 hour drive could turn into a 4.5-5 hour drive.YUK!!

By david berger (Davidrrrd) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

twist throtls aint verry ergonomic philip,
we'd likely come down with carple tunnle syndrome r sumptin.