By Bill Perryman (Billp) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I recently was GIVEN a 1979 Max IV, (I've always wanted one). The machine hasn't been run in 7 years, I figured I'd pull it apart and go through it completely. I'm an aircraft mechanic so I figure I could handle this task. I've run in to a few problems though. The bearing sleeves on the inboard side of 3 of the axles are froze solid. I've tried heating the sleeve and cooling the axle to no avail, I've tried beating the heck out of it, (one brass drift down the drain), and I've tried letting it soak in mouse milk, still can't get it to budge, any ideas? Short of sawing the axle in half and putting a new ones in it. And if that is the only way to go, any clues as to the cost of new complete axles? Thanks guys, I'm having a blast, and I haven't even driven it yet.

By roadwolf on Unrecorded Date: Edit

perryman,
after beating the heck out of it, maybe it's a good idea now to saw 'em off. i would use many of the available penetrating oils a few hours before dismantling.
oh, by the way i hope yopu don't beat the crap outta the airplane's you service, unless there tha one's ben lauden flys on.

By Eric Magyor on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I've had problems like that with some of the Attex machines I had taken apart. I took my time and very carefully used a grinder to get stubborn ones loose. Take everthing else out first, protect your plastic from grinding dust embedding itself, also make sure you clean up any fuels and grease first. If your very careful, you won't need to buy a new axle.

By Eugene Kochnieff on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Hi Bill,

Bearing material is hard and often brittle many a seized bearing has been removed by grinding a notch in it then giving it a sharp hit with a cold chisel.

Wear safety glasses, as it should shatter!!!!

Good luck.

By Bill Perryman (Billp) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Roadwolf, If you would have read the whole post you would have noticed the part about the BRASS DRIFT, in case you didn't know, brass is much softer then most metals, especially the steel on those axles, therefor, you ruin the drift, and not what your pounding on, but I'm sure you knew that. Thanks for the other info guys, I'll give her a whirl, and see what happens.

By roadwolf on Unrecorded Date: Edit

perryman, i can read fairly well. i have beatin the livin' crap outta sum axles that said no! my drifts i still use to this day, not tha axles though.
the real difference between you and me iz yer a bird mechanic and i'm a butcher!
saw the bastards' off and machine up sum new ones and sum spares. you won't regret it.

By Timothy Schotanus (Mudbuster) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

If your axles are factory for a 79 they are a hollow tube made out of 1020 cold rolled. It's junk. throw them away and use new ones.

By david berger (Davidrrrd) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

actualy timothy schotanus replaced axles years ago in his old max IV with ford bronko axels cut to lenth and anealed and drilled and then rehardend to auto specs and he never bent or broke one again

By Timothy Schotanus (Mudbuster) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

The automotive axles I used where from a bronco2(the mini model),ranger pick up, or aerostar. These vehicles have the same bolt pattern and the axle is .008 inch smaller than the factory axle. The axle is so hard that the locking collars will have a hard time holding on so put some shims on either side of the sprocket tube so the axle cant slide in or out. Also put a little caulking around the axle before you slide it all the way in to seal it for water use. Have fun cutting them to length(use a cuttoff wheel) If you have a drill press you can drill a drive bolt hole but you may want to heat the area first with a torch to ruin the temper. once it cools you can drill it with a titanium bit. It will still be hard so go slow and use some lube.