By BLEVINE on Unrecorded Date: Edit

WELL! I DID IT! I OEDERD A CAMO. 900T IV.
WITH 26"TIRES AND THE TRACK KIT AN TIRES.

WILL SOMEONE TELL ME HOW YOU ARE SAPOSSED TO WAIT WITHOUT THINKING ABOUT IT ALL THE TIME. MY WIFE OF 15YRS HAS BEEN SICK TO DEATH OF ME TALKING ABOUT IT [BUYING ONE] FOR THE LAST SIX MONTHS NOW. SO SHE RELEVED NOW I FINNLY GOT IT OVER WITH. ITS DUE IN MID APRIL.

I HAVE BEEN LOOKING AT THEM SINCE LAST YEAR.
THE FIRST ONES I LOOK AT WERE ARGOS A VANGUARD 2 WITH TRACKS AND A BIGFOOT. AS I AM 6' 320 LBS THE RIDE WITH THE GUY SELLING IT WAS REAL TITE. IT WAS A REAL NICE MACH. HE FINNELY JUMPED IN THE BACK AN LET ME DRIVE. WE WERE IN THE WOODS AT NIGHT WITH 2' OF SNOW AN THE LITTEL THING WOULD GO ANYWARE YOU WOULD POINT IT. WHAT A BLAST! I DROVE IN LOW GEAR IT JUST DID NOT HAVE ENOUGH POWER IN HIGH AND WITH MY DRIVING IT WAS QUITE JERKY PROBEBLY ME. THEN I DROVE THE BIGFOOT IT WAS USED AND WOULD CHUG OR IDLE QUITE ROUGH. IT HAD NO TRACKS AN I HAD TO STAY IN THE GUYS YARD. IT HAD TONS MORE POWER AN WAS A BLAST DOING 360S ON THE ICE IN THE DRIVEWAY AND IN MAYBE A FOOT OF SNOW OFF THE DRIVEWAY YOU HAD TO MAKE LONG TURNS OR THE SNOW WOULD STOP YOU. IT WAS ALSO A GOOD MACHINE EXCEPET FOR THE ROUGH IDLE AN THE WAY IT STEERD IT WAS A LITTLE JERKY.

THEN IT WAS TIME TO TRY OUT THE MAXS. THE FIRST ONE WAS A T600 IV WITH 26" TIRES MY FIRST THOUGHT WAS [ BUT UGLY! ] A FREIND AN I WENT FOR A RIDE WITH THE GUY SELLING IT AND ALL THREE OF US PILLED IN. WHAT A MACHINE THE 18 HP IN THAT THING WOULD FLY WITH ALL OF IN THERE I WAS IMPRESSED! AT AN IDLE THE GUY STARTED GOING UP A 15' SNOW PILE AN IT WENT UP THERE LIKE IT WAS A FLAT ROAD I WANTED TO GET OUT BUT HE STOPPED RIGHT AT THE TOP AN USEING THE BRAKES BACKED BACK DOWN REAL SLOWLY SHOWING HOW TO USE THE BRAKES THEN ASKED IF WE WANTED TO GO OVER THE TOP I SAID NOTHANKS! IT WAS 10 DEGS AN REAL WINDY WE WERE ON ICE MOSTLY. I DROVE IT AN WAS AMASSED AT HOW SMOOTH IT WAS TO TURN AND HOW FAST IT WAS. WELL IT LOOKED ALOT BETTER WHEN I GOT OUT THAN WHEN I GOT IN.

I THEN DROVE A MAX II 500T IT WAS TO SMALL AN UNDER POWERD AFTER DRIVING THE IV WITH THE 18HP MOTOR. FOR ME THE ROOM THE SMOOTHNESS OF THE TRANSMITION AN THE HORSE POWER OF THE MAX IV SOLD ME.

I CANT WAIT IF THE 18HP IV WAS GOOD THE 25HP HAS GOT TO BE FLAT GREAT.

I AM NO LONGER A WANTABEE I AM NOW A WILLBESOON!!

By Tim Wafer (Iflyrctoo) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I was just talking to someone who told me they just ordered a new Max IV with a track kit. They said that RI just came out with a new track that is wider (He said 24"??) recently. Anyone know the scoop?
Tim

By matthew smith on Unrecorded Date: Edit

blevine, I ordered the maxiv 900t with 26" tires plus tracks,a set of tires so that the tracks would fit, also a snow blade,roll cage.it takes around 4 to 5 weeks to califonia.the color is green. well hurry up and wate,sleepless nights wating for your new adult toy,well enjoy.matt

By BLEVINE on Unrecorded Date: Edit

MATT, GREEN WAS THE ONE I WAS GOING TO ORDER UNTILL THAY CAME OUT WITH CAMOUFLAGE. I LIKED THE GREEN BECAUSE OF THE PHOTO I SEEN ON FRED SOWERWINES WEB SITE OF A MAX IV WITH TRACKS AND ROLL CAGE IN THE MONTANA MOUNTAINS. I THINK ITS THE COOLEST PHOTO OF ANY IVE SEEN ON THE WEB HANDS DOWN!!!. I CHOSE CAMO BECAUSE OF THE MAXS I HAVE SEEN MOST SEEM TO FADE. THE COLOR RED SEEMED TO BE THE WORST. I THOUGHT THAT THE CAMO. COLOR WOULD LOOK THE BEST OVER TIME AND THAT I PLAN TO USE IT FOR HUNTING BOTH WINTER AND FALL.

IVE BEEN PRAIRIE DOG HUNTING IN SOUTH DAKOTA WHARE I HAVE SEEN SOME PRAIRIE DOG HUNTERS USED GOLF CARTS AS SHOOTING PLATFORMS. HUMM! SOMTHING TO THINK ABOUT THERE!

TIM I TALKED TO TO THE DEALER { I AM BUYING THE 900T FROM } ABOUT THE 24" TRACKS AND HE ASKED THE GUY AT THE FACTORY ABOUT THEM BUT GOT OFF ON ANTHOER SUBJECT AN FORGOT WHAT THE GUY HAD SAID SO MAYBE I CAN FIND OUT LATER WHATS UP WITH THAT.
LATER BRUCE.

By BLEVINE on Unrecorded Date: Edit

TIM, I TALKED TO THE MAX DEALER TODAY ABOUT THE 24" TRACKS. HE HAD ASKED THE GUY AT THE FACTORY TODAY ABOUT THEM AND THAY SAID THERE IS NOTHING TO THAT RUMOR.

I HAD TALKED TO THE GUY THAT IS SELLING THE 900T IN THE PHOTO CLASSIFIEDS IN ROUTE 6X6. HE HAD MADE HIS TRACKS FROM SNOWMOBILE TRACKS AND HE WAS USING THE 26" TIRES THAT WERE ON THE MAX IV. IAM NOT SURE HOW HE DID IT. IT LOOKS LIKE A GOOD IDEA TO ME. LATER BRUCE

By steven (Walleye713) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

CRUISE CONTROL

i have an argo conquest that i take out on long ice fishing runs. my hand gets tired holding the throttle open for what seems like a long uneventful journey mostly in a straight line. i wondered if it was possible to change the throttle so that it locks in place some way so i could just ride along without holding it open.
i looked in jc whitney motorcyle catalog but found nothing. i had thought motorcycles had a cruise control feature.
thanks
steve

By ron ernst on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I found a cruise control that works real nice look at ratracecycle.com it`s real simple to install and takes all the strain off your wrist it`s called the wrist rest. I`ve installed one on my conquest 50 hrs. ago I really like it.

By jerry pulda on Unrecorded Date: Edit

hey, check out this 'throttlerocker' i found in a harley mag. it's only $10 and seems simple enough to do the job...

http://www.throttlerocker.com/

By BLEVINE on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I JUST ORDERD A NEW 900T FROM RI. IT WILL BE DELIVERD HERE AT OUR FARM SITE MID APRIL. WHAT ARE THE RECOMANDATIONS FOR BRAKEING IN THE MOTOR AND CHAINS. YOU KNOW I WOULD LIKE TO GO RAISE SOME CAIN AND SEE HOW HIGH THE ROOSTER TAILS WILL FLY. I LIVE IN THE LAND OF 10,000 LAKES AND A BILLION MUD HOLES IN APRIL. ANY ADVISE WOULD BE GREAT THANKS. LATER BRUCE

WILLBESOON!!!

By Big Bob Hall on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Sounds like a another case of RI
screwing the dealer

By BLEVINE on Unrecorded Date: Edit

BOB THE { MAX } THE { RI. } 900T I ORDERD WAS FROM BRAD AT QUAD CITIES MAX LTD. IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS ASK THEM AND TRY NOT TO JUMP OFF ANY MORE BRIDGES. THIS TIME OF THE YEAR THERE IS ICE UNDER THE WATER AND ITS MIGHTY COLD TO. LATER BRUCE

By Big Bob Hall on Unrecorded Date: Edit

BLEVINE

Seems you are good at giving a smart answers, but incomplete information in messages, as your first message on march 30 said "I JUST ORDERD A NEW 900T FROM RI." This means that you just ordered a new machine from RI not Quad cities. You should consider stoping the smart answers when you wrote messages wrong..........

People like you are bold at your keyboards

By BLEVINE on Unrecorded Date: Edit

BOB

BOB SENSE YOU LIKE TO JUMP TO CONCLUSIONS WITHOUT BOTHERING TO READ ALL OF THE POSTS { THESE POSTS ARE ALIVE AND EVERCHAINGING AND MUST BE READ FROM TOP TO BOTTOM TO KEEP WHATS BEING SAID IN CONTEXT } I WILL LET YOU READ THEM BEFORE I GIVE YOU A "SMART ANSWER" TO YOUR LAST POST. LATER BRUCE

By Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max Dealer (Fred4dot) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Bruce, You will love your new machine! Break-in wise, not much to it. Need to change the oil after 10 or so hours; Give it about 25 hours before you pull a lot of weight (your tranny might be tight and hard to shift during the first 20 or so hours). The chains will be a shade tight at first, but should have the initial stretch out by 25 or 30 hours - probably won't have to adjust them until about 50 hours. A max is kind of noisey with chains, sprockets and tranny but you will get used to it and know what is normal - if the chains get to slapping the bottom or you hear something unusual, check it out. Always make sure the wheels on the side you are working on are off the ground before you do anything with the chains because if the wheels can't turn freely, the top/or bottom (one will be too tight; one will be too loose) will appear to need adjustment when it does not.

Need to take the time to learn how to drive it and stay off the throttle (spinning wheels (or tracks) will just get you stuck unless you are swimming).

By newmax on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I haven't had my max long, and have not driven it to much. I did get stuck on my first day out in snow. there is a guy down the road who has a 4 wheeler. It seems like he can go through alot deeper snow than I can. he drives right up the snow banks and keeps going. his tires dig in probably about 10" or so. It seems like if i did that I would bottom out. Is it going to be the same way in mud trails where i see deep ruts

By MaxRules (Brandon_price) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Newmax, once you get some experience with your Max you should not get stuck in the snow. Newbies love to lay on the throttle and just burry it.
You are unclear on some of the details. You say, "It seems like..." This tells me you are only assuming what will happen if you attempt this deep snow. Is this right? How deep is the snow?
I have never been stuck in ruts. Quad ruts are narrower and will actually help you get through because your tires will only contact the edge of the ruts. An experienced driver would not be helplessly bottomed out on any obsticle like this.

MaxRules

By BLEVINE on Unrecorded Date: Edit

FRED, THANKS FOR THE INFO. CLASS ACT. MAN WHAT A GREAT WEB SITE. FROM THE LAST TIME I WAS ON "YESTERDAY" UNTILL TONIGHT THERE ARE 20 DIFERENT POSTS ON 11 DIFFERNT DISCUSSIONS. LATER BRUCE

By newmax on Unrecorded Date: Edit

the snow banks are about 4'. the snow is hard so the banks arn't a problem. we just had about 14 inches of heavy snow. I have not taken my max out so i dont know what it will do because i am making a top for it. I see the tracks from the quad going through the snow with very deep tracks. everytime in the past that i have tried deep snow that was heavy the bottom hit and got high centered. it seems like when the tires start to sink into the snow it's all over. not really sure though because i haven't tried much, because of the time i got stuck i had to walk 4 miles home and get some planks to get out. kind of gun shy. by the way i have a maxiv 18hp 26" tires, and love it.

By newmax on Unrecorded Date: Edit

does anyone know what to connect the + and - leads from an hour meter to

By Eugene kochnieff on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Connect the -ve lead straight to the -ve of the battery.
The positive should go to the switched terminal on the ignition switch.

This way the hour meter will run only when the ignition is on.

By Bob G on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Generally you would hook up the power wire to the switched side of the ignition switch and route the negative wire to the battery negative or ground. By "switched side", I mean the side of the ignition switch that loses power when the machine is "off". Hourmeters are nothing more than electric motors driving a "clock" wheel, so when you switch "on" it starts running and driving the wheel, thereby giving you a readout of hours used. Does this make sense to you? Sometimes I get too technical and other times I just babble.

By newmax on Unrecorded Date: Edit

thanks eugene and bob, you guys are a big help. this site is awesome. all the help you need is right here

By newmax on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I have a couple of questions. 1 what kind of oil should i use on the o ring chains. is bar and chain oil ok? 2 Brandon mentioned some time ago about a certain spark plug he was using that made a huge difference, what kind was that again. and someone mentioned about an additive to use in the transmission

By MaxRules (Brandon_price) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

1. Chain Wax is the best and can be bought an any motorcycle store. It is a bit expensive. White lithium grease in a spray can also works good and can be found at any store like Wal-Mart. The bar and chain oil will make a huge mess. Since my first chains bit the dust from lack of lube, I have dumped old engine oil in the chain troughs of my Max. It sure makes a mess but the chains are like new because of it. Instead of sitting dry or in water, the chains soak in oil all the time. Never use WD-40 or similar products.
2. Bosch Platinum +4 spark plugs are the best. Take in your old spark plugs and match the threads and legth with the Bosch plugs. Mine did not cross reference so I just had to search through them until I found the right one. If you can't find them I can get the numbers off mine. The 14hp and 18hp probably use the same plugs.
3. There is no need to use any additive. Most additives cause the tranny to slip easier and you are one guy that doesn't need that!

MaxRules

By Bob Bascomb on Unrecorded Date: Edit

RI is useing a friction modifier in every transmission they build. You can purchase it through their parts department for about 6 or 7 dollars for a 4 oz bottle. You can also use General Motors locking differential additive (GM part #: 1052358). Also around 6 or 7 dollars for a 4 oz bottle. Put all 4 oz of additive in the transmission. Either of these products will enhance the performance of your transmission, and will eliminate any band chatter.

By P.J. on Unrecorded Date: Edit

The best way I've found to keep chains lubed is the old tried and true method of using clean motor oil. Just paint it on the chains with a paint brush. It doesn't seem to retain sand and grit as much as most chain lube products. Castrol chain lube spray is my second choice. You will NEVER regret lubricating your chains regularly.

By Harry Dusseau (Dirtyharry) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I'd be interested in the number for those Bosch spark plugs, Brandon.

I am in the process of doing a total chain swap this weekend. I figure I might as well do my oil and filter change while I'm at it. (Oh yes, grease those bearings!)

I'm going to use a synthetic oil this time around. I did with my new John Deere garden tractor last summer (same Briggs 18hp engine) and the increase in performance and drop in both noise level and engine temp was pretty amazing. (I also use a metal treatment called Multi-Lube, which went a looooong way towards the cooler/quieter goal.)

Those hi-po plugs should help rid my engine of some of its sluggishness.

Does anyone know if someone like Fram makes oil & air filters for our Briggs engines?? Seems they would be better than the paper jobs we all use now.

Thanks!

Harry

By MaxRules (Brandon_price) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

The Bosch plugs are 4418.
Harry what kind of chains did you get? I got John Deere chains. They seem to be high quality and cost $120 for all chains. When you put on your chains, make sure the clip opening on the masterlink points the opposite way of normal chain rotation. This helps to avoid the possibility of the chain hitting something and knocking the clip off.
I have used Quaker State sythetic from the first oil change on my Max. I also use sythetic tranny fluid and both work great. The bands do not chatter on my Max.
Fram makes an oil filter for the Briggs 14/16hp. 18hp could be different but I doubt it. The number is PH3614. I don't know about an air filter for the stock air box. I use a Uni or K&N on my bad ass Briggs.

MaxRules

By dirtyharry on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Thanks for the part #'s Brandon. I'm on a tight budget right now, so I'll be using generic chain. The money has to stretch so I can afford to make it to Humphrey this summer.

I agree John Deere parts are top shelf. If the money is there when next I swap all out, I will invest in the better stuff. I've heard lots of people bitch about the higher cost of JD parts, but you do get what you pay for. I remember a really cool display on the parts counter at my local JD dealer that beautifully demonstrated that difference. It had two identicle bearings/gears mounted side-by-side on a plastic display stand: one generic; one John Deere. I spun them both at the same time with equal pressure. The generic gear quit spinning after a few seconds. The JD brand gear was still spinning (quietly) over a minute later! Looked the same, but the story is on the inside.

Glad to see you using good stuff in your machine. Let's hope those JD chains can hold up to your no-oil/no-adjustment maintainence routine. (HA!)

Harry

By newmax on Unrecorded Date: Edit

thanks for all the advice. i really apreciate it. you guy's are alot of help.

By newmax on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I got the fram oil filter and it fit on but it is a little longer than the other one. i hope thats ok. does it take more oil that way. i put 1 quart of synthetic oil in and it needs more. it's supposed to take 1 quart.

By MaxRules (Brandon_price) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

The Fram filters are slightly longer but not enough to really change how much oil it takes. The Briggs engines take 1-1/2 quarts of oil.

By Lazerman (Lazerman) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Hey Brandon
That Fram filter number (PH3614) is the same as the one used on a 1989 Plymoth Horizon I use to owne. I don't think I'll ever forget that number. I bought the car new, put 250,000 miles on it and changed the oil every 3,000 miles.

By lilchief on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Does any one's transmitions in ARGO'S wine realy loud ? It seems like mine is always wineing never stops unless i let go of the throtle it will stop for a second and then start again when you apply power.... Is thee somethning I can add to quite it down some..??? If I could quite it down some it woould be more injoyable to drive..this thing...

By newmax on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Got stuck again. i was going to go into the river behind my house like i was doing when the river was high. but the water had gone down and he ground was mud. I couldn't even reach the river because i sunk in the mud. i was going slow so i wouldn't spin the tires but it didn't work.

By John Grikes (Engage1000) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

lilchief,

Correct me if I am wrong anyone, but that whining noise is the clutch. I too have that problem and it annoys the &^$% outta me.

I really want a quiet 6x6, if such a thing exists. In my opinion it shouldn't be any louder than a car at idle.

Best regards,

John

By 99 bigfoot on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Actually its the gears in the transmission whining. My bigfoot has done it since day one and it really pisses me off that a "gear company" can't assemble a transmission that dosn't whine like a little baby.

By Attex Bob on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Bigfoot is right. They have straight cut gears in them. Straight cut gears = high strength and high noise. Helical cut gears = less strength and very low noise. That is why those cam gear drive units are so noisy. I'm with you guys, that thing is really loud and annoying!!!!!!!!!

By MaxRules (Brandon_price) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I am more amazed by the fact that a gear company can't make a tranny that can turn all six wheels at the same time. You would think maybe one of these days they might do it. Any chance?
The T-20 runs as silent as any moving parts ever could. The only time you know it's there is when all six are locked in and roosting mud. It just doesn't get any better.

MaxRules

By L. A. Philip Osborn (Roadwolf) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

attex bob, why would you clarify that straight cut gears are stronger ( which i agree )and then join tha other bunch of snivlers and complain 'bout tha noise? doesn't make sense to me at all. i would prefer heavy duty anytime!
you ( all ) definately should have known!

By Attex Bob on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I agree with you Roadwolf that strong is good......but I guess I disagree with putting straight cut gears in an application like this. Why put straight cut gears in something like this?? I took mine apart to check it out and this thing looked like it was built for about 250 horse power!!! If Muncie can put helical cut gears in their M21 that can handle 400 HP why can't Argo put them in an AATV that will see no more than 30 HP? Maybe I will take that extra T20 I have in the garage and put it in my Argo 8X8.....hhhhmmmmmmmmmm........no noise, and no power sucking rearend on turns!!!!!! Roadwolf; am I whining as much as my Argo tranny? LOL

By lilchief on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Now that I know I'm not the only one with a loud BIGFOOT I can rest easy knowing it is normal...
It still pppppppppssssssssss me off. can't hear the person next to me unless Im yelling but it is ok.. I prefer the heavy duty any day and will put up with the noise... thanks for the feedback.

By newmax on Unrecorded Date: Edit

can anyone help me out. does anyone know how long the tracks are for the max Iv.

By Tim Wafer (Iflyrctoo) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

HMMM, if you had asked me that last year I would have known off the top of my head. Memory is the first thing to go, I guess. I'm going to say 226" off the top of my head but that may not be exact. They are long, I know that. They are actually made of two separate sections of track spliced together. I'll try to remember to measure them tomorrow for you.
Tim

By newmax on Unrecorded Date: Edit

thanks tim. do you know how they are spliced

By Tim Wafer (Iflyrctoo) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I kept thinking about the length I quoted you last night and the more I thought about it the more it didn't sound right. Tonight I measured them. Its actually 177"! I have no idea where I pulled the 226 dimension from. I told you my memory isn't what it used to be. There are two sections to the track. 0ne 59" and one 118" for a total of 177". Even this is a rough measurement as my tracks are still on and hard to measure exact but that's close. I remember last year using it to pace off some yardages in the field and recall it was almost exactly 5 yards for every revolution of the track. They are joined at the seams with 6 metal clamps with teeth and special flat head bolts & nuts. They seem to hold very well so far. Sorry for the erroneous info before.
Tim

By newmax on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I just bought my max in feb 00. I have been reading about a frame reinforcement kit you can buy. do i need one for this machine? It is a max IV.

By MaxRules (Brandon_price) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Newmax, do you mean Feb of 2001? If so you should be ok. Look at your back right sprocket. Is it one piece with two sprockets or two pieces with one sprocket each? The one piece design is newer and means your frame can take all the punishment you can dish out.
Are you getting better at driving your new toy?

By newmax on Unrecorded Date: Edit

What size tires do I need to run tracks? Does anyone know where i can get a set of used tires and rims for my max IV?

By newmax on Unrecorded Date: Edit

much better. The only place i got stuck was in a river bed in very deep goo. I don't think anything could have gotten through. If i wasn't holding on to the max i would have sunk to my waist. I was riding down one of the trails and came to a spot where i saw all the 4 wheeler tracks going to the left. then went a little further and found out why. deep mud and water. I went right through no problem.

By Henry Pitts on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Newmax

You need to get to know richard owner of this site, he sells
wheels and tires and lots of parts some at real good prices

Henry Pitts

By Big Bob Hall on Unrecorded Date: Edit

you guys are making a mountain out of a molehill. A new style
max4 is a good machine, just enjoy it and do not worry about
what everyone says

By newmax on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Does anyone know what size electric outboard i should use on my max IV

By P.J. on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Plain and simple. As big as you can afford.

P.J.

By liflod (Liflod) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Does anyone have any drawings of the ARGO and/or MAX drivetrains that can be posted on this site? I have read every thread about the different transmissions and final drives, but I have not seen any drawings to help explain.

By Paul on Unrecorded Date: Edit

As amusing as this thread is, it's pretty pointless. I've had a quad, and driven both the Max and Argo tubs. Both 6x6's can out match my quad on challenging terrain, but can't match the quad for speed. The Max is kinda like a low tech tank, but it works, and it works great. The Argo seems to be a better built machine, and slightly higher quality in fit and finish. They've taken time to add some cosmetic touches and styling. Max really has no styling, but they're functional and work. The Argo body is really thick, and strong as an Ox. The Max body is thinner, but you know what? It's STILL strong as an OX, when I rode it, the driver was dozing trees and rocks like they weren't there, and it was just barely scratched.

As for the tranny debate, both machines were capable of doing amazing off road challenges, and with grace. The Argo spun it's tires more during turns, and the Max seemed to have a slight speed edge on the Argo. I have no problem with a differential, but I'd really like to be able to lock it like I can on my 4x4 truck. It's not an option though. Bottom line, they're both really nice machines, both have their strengths and weaknesses, pick whichever you prefer and stop bashing each other.

Like I said, I felt that the Argo is a better built and engineered machine, good fit and finish, good styling, better trailer hitch, good frame... but I bought a Max. My view on the subject, when I'm miles from the nearest road, simple and tanklike is my preference! That's just me, but I really liked the Argo too.

By newmax on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I bought 6 tires and rims (used). the tires are in bad shape, they have cracks in them and don't hold air. I only bought them for tracks. can i put tubes in them and use them?

By Sam Keys on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I did the same thing, as long as you have
rawhides you can install tubes, in fact it
would be even better for use with tracks

Sam Keys

By Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max Dealer (Fred4dot) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

newmax (getting time to change your handle, isn't it?). The only problem with tubes is if your pressure gets low, you are apt to spin the tire on the rim and cut off your valve stems. Forewarned is forearmed (be prepared)!

By davidb3rd@aol.com (David3rdd) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

well in the how to photo's theres a trick some guy used where he put screws threw the rim, it works great, others have tryed it too! my rims havent moved in the tires at all! and i do wheelies on ocation,
some guy

By newmax on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I do have the bead lock rims

By T. Newberry on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I just bought a used '99 max II, and I have a wheel that I can't get off. I used penitraiting and a rubber mallet, tried heat, even ran it without the lug nuts. I'm open for sugestions.
thanks

By MaxRules (Brandon_price) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

The problem is caused by the lugs being over tightened on the k-rims. Sometimes you can just jerk the wheel side to side real hard and it will slowly work its way off. If not, use a hammer and punch to knock the lug bolts out of the flange. Try to see what lug is holding it and knock it out first. When you need to put the tire back on, just put the bolt in and tighten the nut without the wheel on. This will seat the lug back into the flange.

MaxRules

By T.Newberry on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Hi Brandon,
I had to punch all the bolts out to get it off and stiil had it running in less then an hour.
Thanks, you saved me a lot of aggravation, T

By newmax on Unrecorded Date: Edit

i made a couple of things for my max. My throttle cable broke and a new one was about 40 to 50 dollars. I wasn't able to buy just the cable and slide it into the case. so i bought a brake cable from a bike store. cut the lead piece off the end and made a piece from .190 x .500 steel rod. drilled a hole through it and one through end to end. put 2 set screws into the ends and tightned them on the cable. then put a crimp on the top. snapped right into the throttle handle. works great. cost $4.00. also made a cruise control for the long stretches of rairoad bed we have here. I made it from a 1/4" thick rubber cut it with a notch in it. so it fits under the throttle handle. it is tied with wire to the sticks so all i have to do is give it a liitle throttle and it falls out when i want to stop. really saves the hands. works awesome. i have it so it only goes about 10 mph.

By david berger (Davidrrrd) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

well for throtles i use bicicle derailer cable and sheth 96 " kit and solerles conecters to make mine and it works great on choke cables too!

By Pete Cagle (Petec) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

will it work on a minkuni carb ? i just bought one for my super cheif from RI and it was quite pricey