By ChrisB on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Hello,
I am going to build an AATV off of the Edge Co plans. And, right now, I have an 83 Chevy S-10 with the automatic overdrive and the 2.8 liter V-6 engine. Would this be able to haul the 6x6 with a trailer?
Thanks,
Chris Brown

By liflod (Liflod) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

The S-10 will haul the AATV and trailer. Since you are building it yourself, why not make it so it fits in the bed of your pickup?

By argogeru on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Depends on the weight of the trailer and machine combined. those v-6 motors cannot pull alot of weight, exspecially if you are driving in hilly parts of the contry like N.Y.

By ChrisB on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Well, If I where to make to fit into my bed, it will be very narrow. And, It would probaly act just like a canoe on the water, right? And plus, I can only have 1000 pound in the bed, which the 6x6 will take a lot of weight. And, I also want to haul camping gear, and stuff like that. argogeru, I have already found that out. I live In ohio. very hilly and very muddy!!!
Thanks liflod and argogeru.
Chris Brown

By liflod (Liflod) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

As far as the 2.8 V6 goes, I moved from New York to North Carolina hauling a 5x8 U-haul trailer with a 1985 Chevrolet Citation. The tongue of the trailer was too heavy for me to pick up so I used a bottle jack. I added air shocks so the ass end wouldn't sag as much. I had plenty of power to get it going, stopping was the problem. My wife and I made it, along with all of our stuff.

Don't use overdrive when towing unless your on the flatland of Ohio. The constant shifting in and out of overdrive will cause you problems.

By ChrisB on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Thanks liflod. I will remeber to not use the overdrive. I am in the northern ohio valley. Hills, mud,hills,mud, oh and did I mention the hills and the mud!!!HEHE, i am going to have fun once i get this done!!!:) Ooops..did I say that out loud, sorry about getting carried away.
Thanks,
ChrisB

By Jim Morfesy (Azjim) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I'm in the process of purchasing an Argo Conquest. I haven't purchased the trailer yet, I'm looking at getting a 6.5 X 10 FT tilt trailer. Since I'm going to drive almost 2,000 miles to pick it up, and I've never owned an AATV before, I was wondering if anyone had suggestions (or pictures) of the way I should tie it down? Is strapping it to the tow points on the chassis secure enough, or do you put straps over the tires? If you have pictures, feel free to email me at morfesy@cox.net

By Roger Smith on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I use the axles and rear hitch. Straps over the body may warp it over time. Use big stuff, straps or big rope. Argo recommends not to use the brake locks long term... a chance to damage the master cylinder cups. My dealer suggested to tie the hood down.. guess someone lost one in a gust. I've had the bench seat lift out before in big winds.. I always tie it down.

By Oliver on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I drove my Max back from Phili to Buffalo NY on a trailer. Not as long as you, but long enough. On my Max, I put tie down lines over the axles themselves, held just fine, even with a bit of excitement on the drive. On the return trip, we lost a tire from our trialer, pulled over and watched the tire going down the PA turnpike at about 65. It had to be on a downhill too, so it was cruising for an amazing distance, it even stayed in it's lane. A PA policeman was very helpful, made sure we were Ok, then drove down the road. He got our tire back, said it was about 1.5 miles away. (He was laughing when he gave it back.)

By Bob Graham on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Lesson learned!!! I am now going to buy a trailer ! I was loading my one week old fully restored Attex 208TT into the bed of my truck this morning. 3/4 ton Dodge 4x4. Aluminum ramps. Attex went right up the ramps, but started to go left , up and over the side of the bed. i pulled back on the sticks to stop, and it went right over on it's back. Landed on top of me. I'm ok, lots of bruises and aches. No more bed hauling for me. I'm getting a trailer. too bad we never learn from others mistakes. Bob G.

By John Martin on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Man on man Bob, I bet that was one heck of a ride! I would also look into getting a roll bar/ roll cage and some good seatbelts. Its no fun to have a roll over and they can cost you your life. Glad to hear your okay. The machine okay too?

By jerry smith (Deerhunter) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I had a trailer made up for my Bigfoot at a local welding shop in Ontario,It has a bed size 72"x120" and a 4 foot high mesh tail gate.Trailer has 15" wheels with a 3500lb axle. This trailer does a real nice job with the Bigfoot and I think there is enough width for standerd argo tracks,not sure if there is enough width for the Bigfoot with super tracks.

By Bob Graham on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Hard to walk today. Upside of the whole thing is, I am prone to kidney stones. For those of you who have never had the thrill, IT HURTS. Anyhow, I have had 13 of them and pretty much know at least a week or two before the big pain hits. Dull ache in the back for two weeks then WHAM. Well, I've had the dull ache for the past week. Woke up this morning and wizzed out a big old rock. No pain. Crash must have knocked it loose.
Attex suffered a small crush at the upper right rear corner of body, and pulled the windshield strut mount grommets out of the body at left lower end of strut. All repairable. Bob G.

By Eric Magyor on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I made a jig that fits into the bed holes of my Dodge Ram. I hook a winch to it and pull my Attex or Max right up inside to haul them. It's safe, works great and you don't have to worry about the added expense of a trailer.

By Jim Morfesy (Azjim) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

After watching the Argo Sales Video, I decided I didn't want to drive the Conquest into my truck. If you haven't seen it, they've got this guy with a Conquest with tracks drive up a ramp from the snow. About the time the front end comes down, he's braking so he doesn't take out his truck's back window. Plus I have a camper shell on my truck I don't want to take off. I haven't made up my mind on the trailer though. If I can afford the tandem axle with surge brakes, that's the way I want to go. It really depends on how much more they are than the standard single axle. My wife isn't cutting me a lot of slack on the costs of my new toy.

Since the Conquest doesn't have a pull starter for backup, has anyone set up dual batteries (sort of like the one in boats-switchable between battery 1, 2, both or off)?

By Russell Lee (Bigkodiak) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Jim
It is possible to add a second battery. You can simply put a heavy duty switch (knife switch is my preference) into the system for an easy install. The only thing is that you may want to switch which battery you run from time to time to keep them both charged.
I have not done this in a Conquest but I am sure you probably have the room over the left side front axle just opposite of the factory battery. Make a safe cage for the battery and bolt it down.
Russ

By Douglas MacCullagh (Dougmac) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Jim -

To transport my Response, I back it onto the trailer. I use a length of two chain from the trailer hitch on the Argo to the front of the trailer, and then use ratchet tie-down straps from the witch mount to the rear of the trailer. (Before I rigged the chain I used two straps from the pin holes on the hitch receiver, but chain has the advantage of not stretching.)

As for dual batteries, I like the idea, but I'd be concerned about how I secured the second battery & wiring, and about keeping both batteries charged. Interesting...

By David Keeso (Argomag) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

The Conquest is a very reliable machine.

In the unlikely event that you can't get the machine started somewhere, their is a reason why. Always keep an eye on the charging system on the meter. The regulator or whatever it is, has a readout on the dash. The ampemeter (I think is what it is) needle will always move to the positive side even if the battery is fully charged. When you use an accessory such as lights, winch or other, the charge rate will increase because the engine is charging. IF at any time, the needle stops moving, or only moves some of the time, don't shut off the engine. Go back to where you started and get it looked at. I have an ARGO MAGNUM 8x8, and when the regulator on it went, it was the last thing we checked. The guy who fixes ours has two and it happened to him once too. We replaced the battery twice before finally figuring out that this was the problem. After we replaced the regulator, it worked for about a month and quit. Finally, we got another new one from ODG, and also changed the wiring. We put a 20 amp car fuse holster in and I have never had a starting problem since. IF it sits in the garage up north for sometimes 2 months, I can go up, turn the key, and it turns over, it usually sounds a little sick at first and as soon as it turns over a few times, it gets the strength back and starts like any car would. Once run for a while, the next morning, I can go out again, turn the key and it doesn't even turn over, just fires up and Im off.

So the battery won't just quit. You will see signs of something wrong and then you will know to get it checked.

As I said above, they are very reliable machines, and as long as they are maintained and the proper 50 hour service checks are held, it will keep running until the engine can't keep up anymore.

(heavy duty marine batteries are very strong, and don't seem to mind being smashed around inside the engine area.

E-mail me for more if needed, but I hope this helps.

By David Keeso (Argomag) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

In addition to my previous post, you could always try the option of putting a trickle charger on the Conquest. I don't know if it would work but on a boat we just sold it worked wonders. The boat was used for showing property at an chunk of beautiful land that my dad is developing. THe boat sat a the old dock that hadn't been used for at least 30 years, and it was only run once or twice a month. The charger wires were just attached to the battery like the cables go, (the washer, wing nut etc.) and the actual solar plate sat on the back of the boat outside the cover. It got wind, water (lots and lots of water), you name it. It kept charging the batteries and not one ever had to be replaced in the three or four years it was being used.

This may be a good option for the Argo. If you are going to be doing a lot of winching, using the lights, and using whatever you have on it, you don't have to worry about taking the machine for a fast run to recharge the batteries. I have been considering it for mine, but it sits in the garage at the cottage and the sun doesn't come in very well. Then again, I have never since replacing the regulator and changing the fuse holster and fuse, had a problem getting it started. As before in the above post, it may sound dead, but as soon as it turns over a few times, it gets enough power and fires up and your off!

By azjim on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I guess I forgot to mention, I live in Arizona. Batteries out here just up and die for no apparent reason (other than its only 160-180 degrees under the hood before you start your engine). If you get 2 years out of a battery, you're doing good. I've been here awhile, one day you go out to start your truck, and the battery has a dead short-no prior warning. You cann't even jump it! I've also got a boat with dual batteries. I replace 1 battery every year. I found out the hard way with my first boat why the second battery's important. I have a switch on my boat like the one at www.overtons.com/ , search "battery switch" item # 31620. It works really nice, I run my electric refrigerator, all my cabin lights, anchor lights, etc on battery one, all night. The following morning, I start my engine on battery 2, then switch to All, so both charge. Setting up the wiring is a piece of cake (instructions come with the switch). All that's really needed are battery cables that can reach the switch.That switch is only $26.00 now (mine was a little cheaper 10 years ago) and they are marine quality.

By David Keeso (Argomag) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Although I don't know much about batteries, i bet there is a battery somewhere that can handle a lot of heat. If heat is the reason why they die fast, you could rig up some sort of cooling fan like the one used or used on the ARGOs with hydralic brake systems. Their is a small fan that supposedly goes to the brake area to keep them somewhat cool. Could something like this be done for the battery? YOu may be able to encase the battery is a heat resistant material. You could make a box out of the material big enough for the battery and have the fan blow directly into it.

As I said in an earlier post, I don't know all the technical aspects of this stuff. But I do have a creative imagination when it comes to these machines (ONLY ARGO) so if this helps at all, which hopefully it will, i think it may work. I'm only 17 so I have no clue as to what the situation is on why they die so fast, but they do get smashed around a lot. (Although I highly doubt it, but could it be the water level? The batteries have to have water in them and if it is that hot maybe the water is being evaporated quickly)